I'm about to epoxy the wraps on my second rod I've built. Can I tape off where I want the epoxy to end on the blank to get an even finish or will the epoxy stick to the tape? If I can tape it, what kind of tape do I use? Do I wait for epoxy to dry before removing tape?:confused:

You can do that. I have done it as a test and really didn't find any advantage. I apply the epoxy while the rod is turning so it is fairly easy to keep things even. I used masking tape and removed the tape after a couple hours, the epoxy was starting to get a little tacky (I use flexcoat). If you leave the tape on too long you will have problems for obvious reasons.

Hi dont know what you are using for coating but any I have seen did not require taping the blank.Just rest brush with coating on it on turning blank just beyond end of wrap.I usually do the very ends just beyond the thread last as I am coating each guide.Do you know about mixing and pouring mix onto tin foil.this is important as if you leave in mixing cup it sets up faster.Also pouring helps to get rid of air bubbles.After I have it coated I blow out the remaining bubbles with the little hollow coffee stirrers.Hot air is also supposed to help but you can boil the epoxy if to much heat is applied.Put on thin first coat and be sure to work it under the guide feet.This helps keep any bubbles to a minimum.Let it turn on dryer until the remainder on tin foil sets up to touch.It takes about 3 to 4 hrs so I hope you dont plan on turning by hand that long.I usually recoat after letting it sit at least a day.Wipe down with denatured alcohol before recoatind and make sure all dust is off rod before either coat.Ive used the Hi-build for quite awhile and it works pretty good but I recently saw AFTCO has a new epoxy just like it that has a UV additive in it so it wont turn Yellow like the flexcoat does.It shows more on the white blanks.Any questions feel free to ask

Thanks for the replies. I'll use your suggestions.

get a box of alchohol swabs from a drug store. as the rod is spinning, apply the swab to the blank. the alchohol cuts the epoxy and leaves a perfect end.

Originally posted by Bawana
AFTCO has a new epoxy just like it that has a UV additive in it so it wont turn Yellow like the flexcoat does.It shows more on the white blanks.Any questions feel free to ask

Bawana, I have never seen flexcoat yellow. Over how long a period are you talking?

It doesnt take that long to see on a white blank especially one thats left in the sun such as on a boat but I have seen even on surf blanks after a year or two.You dont notice it as bad on black and other colored blanks but it sticks out like a sore thumb on white blanks.I have been told thaah the LS supreme also doesnt do it as bad and heard they also now have a hi-build epoxy but I havent seen it locally yet.The yellowing doesnt effect it its just that you can see it big time when it gets held next to a newly epoxied one.

I just put my second coat of epoxy on and I have a lot of, what appear to be "fish eyes" in the epoxy. I tried to blow them out thinking they were air bubbles but that didn't work. Any suggestions as to what caused it? I cleaned my syringes with alcohol last night and wiped the blank with alcohol before I put on the 2nd coat. HELP. Do I have to sand it when it dries?

you did not say in your PM you used syringes.
I will guarintee they did not clean enough . even the slighest amount of silicone will cause the fish eyes to happen.

Yeah, I think that's what happened mike. I mixed up some more epoxy in a cup without the syring and put it on one of the guides and no fish eyes. Sorry I didn't say that in PM, I was a little pissed. Should I sand out the fish eyes or just go over it with another coat?

OH OH -I always use the little flex coat syringes as they are made without silicon.I have actually never seen this problem but have heard about it when using medical syringes that use silicon in the molding process. A set of flexcoat ones lasts like for ever just wipe off outside with paper towel after using. Pull the plungers to the top of syringe and store individually in pieces of tinfoil(make a little envelope). From what I have heard you have a big problem and would be interested in how anyone has delt with this short of stripping it all off and starting over.

clean with alcohol then recoat.

Worked like a charm Mike. Thanx.:) Musta been the syringes.
That Aftcote epoxy is great. No bubble at all to deal with and dries smooth as can be.

glad it worked out and welcome to the world of rod building:smash:

If "Learn from your mistakes" is true, I'll be the smartest guy in the world.:smash:
Thanx again Mike.

Dave,
I cant wait until you spend an hour or more on a butt wrap and then when you clip the tie off thread you mistakenly clip the wrong one!!! :laughs: :laughs: :laughs: :smash: :smash: :smash: :laughs: :laughs: :laughs: :laughs:

Not me Russ.:hidin: :laughs: :laughs: :laughs: :laughs:
Ya gotta laugh though. I'm real good at hiding my mistakes though.

Interesting ---when this happens does the silicon all come to the top and just sit on the surface.I*m also kinda surprised the alcohol removes it.This is a big problem in painting cars and there was a product made that was supposed to remove silicon but the silicon also stopped the paint from adhering to the surface.Did it seem to take longer for the Aftco product to set up.I was told it took longer then the flexcoat but that it did have less problems with the air bubbles.

Bawana, I put the epoxy on less than 12 hours ago and it seems to be pretty much set up. It's not tacky at all. I don't know if it was the silicone or what that caused the fish eyes, but after wiping with alcohol and applying another coat, it's smooth as a babies bottom.

glad it is OK ---did you use medical syringes for first mix and was that also the Aftco epoxy.If so did you also use the Aftco color preserver.I was going to try the Aftco for the UV protection and what I had heard about it getting less air bubbles so it would be nice to know what can go wrong and what to do when it does.Its easier to learn from someones elses mistakes and problems with a relativly new product then find out the hard way.Also did you leave it turning for the whole twelve Hrs.

To answer your questions:
I did not use medical syringes, don't know what brand they are.
I did use Aftcote on 1st coat.
I mixed last coat in cup,syringes scare me now.
I used Amtak CP,does that matter???
I had no air bubble problems.
Yes I went to bed and left it turning all night.

Now a question for you: I want to get a back-up drying motor, which ones do you use, what speed is best, and where's best place to get one?

I dont know if Mike carries them or not but I use the flexcoat set up.I have the (i believe 6 rpm) motor and use the Clemens Aluminum rod supports to support the other end.I bought three of these before they went out of business and also use them on a lathe for turning cork grips down made from individual rings as they have ball bearings in them and are good for sanding at high speed.I use a 1/4 horse motor for this so they spin kinda fast. Any good support should work fine at slow speeds.I prefer the slower motors as its easier to coat around the guide feet.IF he doesn*t have try CMS in New Bedford($62.00 )I know Rod Builders Workshop in Kingston MA. ususlly stocks them.I dont know about the amtack color preserver I have never used it.I usually only use the flexoat stuff but I do have some of the Gudbrod 811 and even some of thier older 111.I just didnt like the way it went on ( it has to be cut with alcohol to thin )but I know some people love it.I prefer to use the stuff from the same manufacturer color preserver and epoxy just so there wont be a mix and match problem. If you didnt use medical syrings and they were made for rod building coatings chances are no silicon was used when they were made because they know this is a definate problem.IF you happen to find out what caused it for sure I would like to know what it was so I can avoid it.

I can get the Flex Coat dryers . The problem is that the rods fall out during the dry time and it's hard to tape them in.
The Amtak is nices and comes with the roller.You should still tape or band the rods in the chuck to make sure they don't come loose.The amtak is also cheeper.

Yes mike that was a problem but not so much the rod falling out of the rubber plug but the whole rubber grommet coming off the plastic cup.this happened on a 130 class rod when I first went to use it so I crisscrossed wrapped the grommet to the cup with electrical tape and it hasnt done it again.Another problem if big boat rods are done the weight of guides on one side put a lot of stress on the plastic cup and the little hole seems to wear out or get sloppy so every once in a while it has to be epoxied to the shaft. what is the price on the amtack one I might even pick one up for a spare.I know I have a spare motor around here somewhere but a whole extra unit is worth it if it dies when your in the middle of curing a rod. what options does amtack have for speeds?

The Flex Coat systems use to have a large hose clamp to hold the rubber on but they stopped using them.:smash:
The Amtaks sell for around $52.00 Your milage may vary:D

I made my own rod dryer. I use hot melt adhesive to bond the rod to my make shift coned chuck. Use denatured alcohol to soften the hot melt and it peels right off.

Where I work we use hot melt to hold down all kinds of things while we machine it. You would be amazed how strong the hot melt holds things for fixturing.

Call me paranoid, but the last thing I want to happen is have my rod fall off my drying jig. :( Of my rod end it too large I attaches a couple of stir sticks to the edge of my chuck and the butt cap of the rod - sort of like an outrigger. It looks funny, but it works. :)

A few pieces of masking take also works (when I am in too much of a hurry to wait for the glue gun to heat up......LOL).

what a rookie :p :p :p

how long do you typically wait after the final coat of epoxy before fishing the rod?
It helps that the weather has been so crappy but i have a couple of rods that i just finished that im dying to get out and cast a bit, but want to make sure the aftcote is set-up.
thanks

36 hours is best

thanks