I finally started turning some of my own woood these past few weeks. This site has been great from a research point of view, so many previous posts with great info!

And of course I've just encountered my first major problem. I've sealed my wood using Minwax Wood Sealer and let dry for many days. I then primed (2 coats) using Rustoleum Primer from a sray can and let dry 2 days in between each coat.

I started painting yesterday/today and noticed "cracking" (best word to describe what I'm seeing) of all layers of paint, regardless of color. It looks like the paint is reacting to the primer? I am using Rustoleum brand also from a spray can so don't think there's an incompatibility issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.....

I use alot of that paint an have no trouble...maybe the paint doesn't like the wood sealer your useing.....try soaking your bare plugs in urethane[thinned] down, let dry , fine sand , prime,two coats of flat white or satin then your color.

one of two things, either your subbase isn't dry and is still outgassing into the paint cuasing the krinkles or could be something I already found out....SOME rustoleums are junk if you put over minwax. Stick with like "tone" paint, primer, sealer....ie don't mix toluene based paints with ketone based stuff.....keep it similar....acetone, ketone, mek, etc.

Also another thing I just thought of too is to make sure you're not putting paint on too thick, thin coats and let them dry properly. follow the can instructions, and if it says dry for 8 hour let it dry for 14 :)

Capesams - Could be the Sealer but the Rustoleum primer goes on fine, nice & smooth, no cracking. Anyways, I'll try something different on a few more to see if thats the cause.

#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^& - Saw that warning about mixing in previous posts. All the Rustoleum spray cans are "Painters Touch" version. Primer and all paints contain the same elements; Toluene, Acetone & Xykene.

I painted an additional one last night using blue & pink and didn't notice any cracking. I re-examined the other ones I painted and all use white, purple and black. Maybe I got a bad batch of paint?

Even though the directions say I can paint over wet paint w/i 1 hr, I think I'll let each color dry before mixing and see what results that yields.

Anyone else, thoughts? Txs.

Maybe a picture of the problem will look familar, slightly blurred but notice the "cracking".

I toohave been having a similar problem. I minwax seal, bin prime and BOOM a mess. They don't seem to be compatable. I'm looking for a new sealer, one that won't soften when I prime.

Backbeach - I have no problems priming, only when I apply first coat paint.

you using any metalics.....those will eat underlaying coats of paint....if you spray on all your color coats on at once this lifting won't happen.

check that min wax can an see if it has wax in it....looks like the primer isn't sticking.

How frustrating...

I've been sealing with waterlox and priming with BIN. Using Rust-o-leum spray cans the only issues I've had are spraying a metallic or neon color over a base coat of enamel that isn't totally dry. Other than that no issues.

-spence

it's alot more work,but i seal the wood with cut boiled linsed oil,then let fully dry for a couple of days.sand with 400 grit,then prime with 30 minute devcon epoxy.this puts a seperation barrier between the wood and your painting surface.lightly scuff up the epoxy,and paint.the epoxy gives you a very hard,glass like surface to paint on.

guzz

Originally posted by guzz
it's alot more work,but i seal the wood with cut boiled linsed oil,then let fully dry for a couple of days.sand with 400 grit,then prime with 30 minute devcon epoxy.this puts a seperation barrier between the wood and your painting surface.lightly scuff up the epoxy,and paint.the epoxy gives you a very hard,glass like surface to paint on.

guzz

Sounds like work to me Guzz;) :D You have alot more patience than I do brother. I hate clear coating, no way I am gonna do it twice:eek: However, I bet that method is very effective, your plugs will probably last for years:cool:

Moses, how long are you supposed to let your primer dry? Some of them say something like "apply second coat within 1 hour or wait 5 days". My primer does and if you don't the solvent will work on the other layers that have not fully cured.

do yourself a favor and skip the sealing if u are using ayc, and use bin for a primer-sand the bin after each coat with 220 grit and then have at it with the rattle cans-bin dries wicked fast at room temp-u can paint after 15 to 20 minutes-but make sure u hit it with the 220 and wipe down after with denatured alcohol
chris

Looks like a few more options to try; Waterlox Sealer and Bins Primer or Boiled Linsed. I'm definitely allowing stated time now for drying but will try x2. Then of course sand down and wipe clean b4 painting. Thanks guys.

I'l check in next weekend with some good news (hopefully)......

Originally posted by BassAssasin
Sounds like work to me Guzz;) :D You have alot more patience than I do brother. I hate clear coating, no way I am gonna do it twice:eek:

how about three then?:rolleyes: yep all my plugs,even the freshwater stuff,have three coats of devcon on them.one coat as a primer,one with glitter mixed in over the paint,then one final coat to smooth everything out.pretty sick huh? now ya know why it takes me forever to do a even a small run of plugs.but i do have plugs that are going on there third season though:)

guzz

Originally posted by guzz
how about three then?:rolleyes: yep all my plugs,even the freshwater stuff,have three coats of devcon on them.one coat as a primer,one with glitter mixed in over the paint,then one final coat to smooth everything out.pretty sick huh? now ya know why it takes me forever to do a even a small run of plugs.but i do have plugs that are going on there third season though:)

guzz

:eek: :eek: :eek: Is that what they call a clear coat complex?:D :D

The top coat over the prime is not Laq base. Probably not though. If you paint enamel over Laq it will lift/crack/crinkle.
When not using cedar I use in this order:

Seal with 60% boiled linseed 40% mineral spirits (thanks Jiggy!)
Let it soak up to 30sec then wipe dry and hang overnight somewhere warm. (on my oil burner pipe)

Prime with red label Bin primer. Spray or dip in qt. Can. Let dry over night and wetsand with 320grit. Let dry a few hours and blow through the through hole to get out any standing water.

Rustolium or Duplicolor spray can.....go nuts.

Clear with whatever you like.

Never a problem........................................... ....................yet!

Originally posted by Surfster
Prime with red label Bin primer. Spray or dip in qt. Can. Let dry over night and wetsand with 320grit. Let dry a few hours and blow through the through hole to get out any standing water.

Rustolium or Duplicolor spray can.....go nuts.

Clear with whatever you like.

Never a problem........................................... ....................yet!

I ran into Tinman at the MSBA show yesterday and we got to chatting. I believe it was him who specifically mentioned Bin in the blue can not red (interior vs exterior).

For those use Bin, what color do you use red or blue? Thanks.

I sanded down all the blanks I had covered with Rustoleum Primer and then recovered with Zinnser. Lightly sanded with 220 and reapplied a 2nd coat. Just got finished applying my first coat of paints and the plugs look sweet (silky smooth, no cracking)!

In a few more days, I'll probably thru wire 1 (though I tried one and the tail is exceptionally difficult) and compare it against my first cracked painted one. Will upload so you can see the difference. Amazing what a positive effect this one small change has made.

Thanks to everyone for their advice.