I skwewed up and contaminated the epoxy on the butt section and 2 guides with particles of schtuff and fingerprints, long story... What I'm wondering is if there is a way to repair and then coat on top of it instead of striping it down and reapplying (which I don't want to do as I like it the way it is other than the flaws in the epoxy)...

Thanks,

Signed - sniffin' too much epoxy

You can probably recoat over the fingerprints without a problem(if a deep print maybe light sand with 400 then 600 and recoat) but the Schtuff could be bad. What kind of schtuff , how much of it , and is it imbedded in the epoxy or just stuck to the surface?

John...I have only done a few rods, so I bet there is better advice out there, but here's mine. Try sanding the epoxy with some 400 grit paper to get the finger prints out. Make sure that you don't sand into the thread. It might get some of the other stuff out too. Then clean it with denatured alcohol and make sure the surface is completely clean. I did the same once and was able to sand out my prints. :) Then recoat with epoxy. I quickly learned it was better to do more thin coats than less thick coats of epoxy.

Charlie

Thanks guys!!! ;D

The "Schtuff", which is only on the surface, was debri/dust from the rod going back into the plastic blank bag after drying what I thought was a sufficient amount of time (and after being in a very hot sun without being fully cured). The finger prints? Well that was my fault...

I was thinking along the lines of wet sanding with ultra-fine paper but I wanted to hear what you all would say...

I wouldn't wet sand John. Dry sand through 600 then clean with alchohol then recoat. Bewieve it or not , epoxy sucks up a wot of water , welativewy spweaking. :) The next coat may not stick good if water is used. It may not be noticed immediately but with time , you may get some debonding and it will show.

If it's isolated and small pieces of stuff, don't even bother with sandpaper, get out a good sharp razor blade and carefully slice off the stuff. You must be careful about cutting into the threads, but even if you nick one or two or three, the epoxy is probably going to hold the guide just fine. Forgot to add the obvious, re-coat with a coat or two as required to finish up.

I've had to cut out knats, flys, dog hair, you name it and I always just get out my trusty supply of razor blades. Good luck and just who are you calling amatuers :).

John, sounds like a job for Capt. Duct Tape!<g>

(My wife would be quick to tell you that's generally always my approach to cosmetic problems...as they say, out of sight, out of mind)
Jerry Vovcsko
moderator
capecodfishingnet.com

What brand of epoxy were you using? After sanding, a very light coat of LS Supreme would work nicely and set up tack free in about 4 hours. I would recommend coating the entire area of whatever is affected, such as recoating the whole guide or butt wrap so you would not be able to detect the two layers of epoxy.

John,
As long as the epoxy hardens properly I would just coat over the miscue and then repair in the winter.

Swimmer