I feel like the first day at a 12 step program.

My wife bought me a mini grizzly lathe today.
Gonna be here in a few days.

Now I need all manner of stuff...

wood - I have some spare 2x4 kickin around. I suppose if I cut it down to 1x1 it should do to learn from.
tools - any suggestions for a couple chisels to start with?
paper - would one of those three grit multipacks do?
gloves - might as well start right hands are still soft from all this keyboard poking
goggles - no sense taking chances my eyes are bad enough already
paint - I have some krylon or rustoleum in the shed
sanding sealer, epoxy, etc - will have to do more reading
stencils - maybe I can get some fishnets off you ladies?:heybaby:

If I get all that before PN2 think someone could give me a little 1-on-1 to get started?


Then hardware for the plugs!!!

lips, through wire, snaprings, hooks, lead...
:uhoh:aw man... this list just keeps growing!:doh:

anyone have some spares they could part with at the meeting?

Hi Mike.

hi mike.

Robert Sorby tools are what I use. 1 inch skew and 3/4 inch gouge. You might get some cheap ones to start with to get you through the learning process. Rather than goggles, get a full face shield. The first time you screw up and a chuck of plug comes at your face doing 300 mph, you'll be glad you got the shield. Get a respirator for wood dust too. Sandpaper: 60 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit. As for wood, whatever you have around to get you started is good. Poplar is pretty cheap at Homies or other similar stores.
Start with poppers. The rustoleum paint will do fine. Pick up some boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Mix 60% linseed to 40% spirits for sealing plugs. Njtackle.com has grommets, wire, weights, lips and other stuff.

Jigman

Hi Mike-- ya got a great sponsor in the Jigman!:D

<<Hi Mike-- ya got a great sponsor in the Jigman! >>

Yep, just send me plugs and I'll be your friend :D

Jigman

Thanks for the starter tips.

I think I will start with good quality hand tools.
No sense in starting bad habbits due to inferior metals.
I also dont want to be constantly re-sharpening/honing them...

- you should see how picky I am with cooking impliments...-

My shopping list for tools and safety gear is now
full face shield
work gloves
denim shirt
one inch skew
3/4 inch gouge
60,100,150 grit papers

I finish sand with 220 grit MikeT.....get some!;)

mike, not sure that work gloves are a good idea, might get caught up in lathe, same with long sleeves. happy turning!

If you wear a long sleave shirt, make sure it is buttoned and will not leave excess sleave to get caught in the lathe as it spins. I have never seen a need for gloves with the lathe.

Jigman

MTL,

Lots of good advise so far.

The only time I wear gloves (disposable latex ones) is when dipping plugs in sealer or painting. Makes clean-up a whole lot easier.

I worked in and around the machine tool trades my entire career.
Please, "NEVER" wear gloves when operating a lathe.

Originally posted by Sea-5
I worked in and around the machine tool trades my entire career.
Please, "NEVER" wear gloves when operating a lathe.

I can see the concern.
much like not wearing loose fitting clothing.
or keeping long hair away.

Any other comments?

MikeT, just thought I would add my two cents. I have turned wood for many years. I would buy a good book before buying anything else. A good book should discuss the uses of all the different tools, the basics of turning, and have a few simple projects. A basic set of turning tools generally includes between 5 and 8 chisels.

The 3/4 inch gouge that Jigman recommends is good for roughing out the blank, you will have to decide between the roughing gouge or a spindle gouge. For small stuff like plugs, I find the spindle gouge to be faster and more versatile. It is also more expensive. 1/2 inch will work just as well.

The 1-inch skew is good for final shaping and finishing.

You will also need a parting tool to separate the plug from the scrap wood on each end. A skew chisel will do this, but not nearly as well as the parting tool. You can also use the parting tool and a set of calipers to establish the diameter at key points on the plug. Then you can make exact copies of any plug.

Make sure all tools you get are high speed steel. Carbon steel works fine too, you will just have to sharpen it more. Which brings up another point, you will need a way to sharpen the chisels.

DO NOT USE GLOVES!! As you get better at turning, you will be able to put your hand on the spinning wood. This will allow you to feel the areas that need more work. Some turning techniques require that you support the spinning wood with your hand.

Lastly, there is lots of free wood in pallets, just make sure to remove all the nails. Green wood is also fun to turn and its free too.

I know some guys use a parting tool, probably more of a personal thing. I like to keep the square ends on the plug when I am doing swimmers so I can keep things lined up when I make the slot for the lip. Same with any plug (like a darter) that you'll cut angles on. Good to keep the square ends on while making any cuts. After the cuts, ends are removed with a band saw.

Jigman

Good point about the square ends. I assume you are cutting the slot before drilling the through hole?

Like Jigman said,and in addition the square ends allow you a center to work from to drill your hooks,weights and eyes. You can also use the square tail end to hold the plug in your chuck when you drill your off-center hole.

thanks for the follow-ups !!
My lathe arrived and is still in its box.
I will be camping again with the BoyScouts this weekend further postponing its grand opening.

Backcast (etc) - Any tips on a good gettin started turning book? If I have time and get a good feeling from reviews and suggestions I will mostlilkely order off amazon or BN and try for a Monday arrival.

I like "Turning Wood With Richard Raffan". There is also a video of the same name. May be able to get it through your local library. Woodcraft in Woburn will have a copy and all the turning tools you could want. The staff there is excellent and will help you get everything you need.

where is woodcraft? I work in waltham so it would not be too far out of the way.

313 Montvale Ave. Right off of Rt 93.

Stopped off at B&N, looked at wood turning books.
I think I want to build a little shed to house my stuff.

I have heard it said that a Wise Man builds a shed over his best tool.

Went to HoDespot and found that they dont carry any turning tools! After putting woodworkers whorehouse out of business in the area they dont carry the gear anymore!!

Drove down to sears and bought the 6piece chisel set, face shield, and sandpaper.

In the set was the 1"skew and 1/4"gauge that I really wanted.
They had single 1/2" skew, and 3/4"gauge but at 18-25 bucks each tool I figured get the set and be done for now.

... heh.. the lathe is still in the box.
I need to find the shop vac and cleanup the spiders around my old workbench.

Then I am going to scrounge up some wood and cut it down to manageable blocks..
what size folks?
looks like maybe 1.5-2 x 8-10 for starts.

If the old drillpress is still around I will be set for a while.
NEed to see about a drill chuck for the GrizzlyMini lathe....

oh the madnes :)

2"x 2" x 10" ayc is good and easy to work with. (of course it's really 1.5"x1.5":confused: )

is that something easy to get around here?

the only place i know of that has is dighton-rehobeth builders supply in attleboro.( or is it rehobeth-dighton b/s? )

finally had time to open the grizzly lathe box.
attached the various handles and am starin at the lathe!!
gonna haul it into the basement tomorrow and see what it can do.

I was surprised there is no way to mount it to the worktable.
not even a bump or standoff that I can put a clamp on.

Mike....on the inside of the legs you should find some bolt holes to bolt it down?;)

maybe they are just enameled over.
I saw blocks for them in the non-motor end but they didnt appear drilled open I will check again today.

no bolt holes :(
gonna go spin it up now.

I just ripped a 2x4 scrap down into five 1.5x1.5x10 blocks

MIKE, i have a mini jet and don't bolt it down, no problems. happy turning!!!

first run turned out swell!!
afterhours - you were right, I didnt need to bolt it down.
I used the 1" skew, 1" gouge mostly.
A little bit with the 1/2" gouge.

I am going to make a center marking jig tomorrow.

First plug I chunked something fierce as I got used to the feel of the tool against the wood. I cut too deep and ended up snapping off one end! So, I put it in my mitre box and cut off the chunky bitts and started again.

It has been sanded with medium grit and then with 220

I need to ho some hardware now.
grommets, lips, wire, lead, swivels, snaprings, hooks ..

I have a fly tyin kit so once I get this part down I will try my hand at tyin my own tail hooks.

heres how my first plugs look so far:

great shapes! especaily for firsts!

Thanks! (I might try my hand at making a chair next :) )

What size drill bits should I be using for the through wire and grommets (course I dont have either yet)

Going to go check out the status of my pops craftsman drill press jig... As a kid (8yrs) I remember taking it apart and loosing some adjustment nuts...
(boy did I destroy a bunch of his tools!!!)

Those look great, you must have turned wood before.

Use 1/8 inch drill bits for through holes and whatever it takes to match the outside diameter of the grommets you use.

Chair making, assuming you mean windsors, is a little more challenging than fishing lures. Means you get to turn green wood, which is fun. Send me a PM if you want to talk chairs.

thanks for the comps backcast. :)
This is the first time turning. I spent 20 minutes at B&N looking at books on turning. I also watched rather closely while BM was spinning at PN1 and PN2

I have done some whittling here and there so I had an idea already. Plus for the last 8 years I have been making pinecars with the scouts so shaping a stationary block of pine has been burned into my head.

Wonder how an elcamino would do if it was through wired and laden with hooks...

Also, I found a complete press under my pops tool bench.
It has about 3" travel and about 12" clearance so I will need multiple bits.

I think a drill press works fine for everything but the through hole. I like to drill the holes for the belly weights and other things before I turn the wood in the lathe. Its always easier to work with a square block of wood than a round one.

The through hole is best started on the lathe after the plug is turned and then finished with a hand drill and longer bits. Once I am done with the through hole, I put the plug back in the lathe and use the parting tool to remove waste on one end and almost on the other. This is cleaner and more accurate that sawing the ends off. It also gives you the option for touch up or fine toning the shape of the plug.

Dan

Backcast? You drill your belly holes and stuff before you turn your plug???:confused: I never heard of anyone doing it that way....how accurate are your depths when you are finished?:eek:

I turn my plug first....leave the square ends on and then go ahead and drill my eyes, belly swivel holes, and weight holes and such.....then trim the ends off with a small saw....comes out awesome! I thru-drill the block on my drill press before I turn and use the holes for center....works great!;)

Big Fish, i started drilling before turning after i read a post,i think jigman or tagger? Works great as evrything is square and you get your holes dead center. I was concerned about chipping around the holes when turning but they come out perfect.:D However don't see how that would improve the quality your turnin out.:)

Boy, if you guys say so I may try it....but I turn my plugs freehand and am never really sure where I quite want them to end up, so I leave that finish work for last.:)

Larry,i just find it easier for dannys and surfsters,i haven't turned any needles:(

mike,

raffrans video is great, i have it on dvd.. very helpful..

i got a chance to try one of sorby''s spindlemasters a while back

very smooth cutting chisel.. works better than skews in some

respects..

enjoy..

and those profiles are great..

later
crash

If you know where the center of the plug will be, depth is not a problem for belly weights or swivel holes. If I am off a little, back to the drill press for an adjustment after the plug is turned. A drill press vice helps.

For eyes, well you got me, if I do eyes, that comes after the plug is turned. Once you are ready to cut off the square ends, put the plug back in the lathe and try using the parting tool to cut off one of the ends and almost cut off the other (do the almost first).

If you start the through holes on the lathe, you can finish them by hand, avoiding the need to raise and lower the drill press table to get deeper than the 2 to 3 inches allowed by most drill presses.

Seems that there are as many ways to turn a plug as there are to fish it. What ever works best for you.