I have a 706Z which I will soon marry to an 11' Lami.

How exactly do I use electrical tape to attach it? How much tape, how many turns? Friction tape or a similar material underneath?

use hose clamps.
they hold better.:rotfl:

Where do you position the bolt? I figure they may dig into your hands after a while or am I wrong?:)

get one of those casting gloves.
hose clamp bolts at 10 and 2 , eletrical tape{6 wraps on the top, 8 on the bottom}
seal off with 4" silver duct tape, and your good to go.
mike

if you wrap it nice and tight, it only takes a few layers of tape. it wont last forever, but itll last long enough

What worries me about the whole tape thing is if the reel has a problem out in the water, it will be a killer to change.

Casting glove :jester:

Get a Fuji plate style reel seat which tapes to the grip and allows you to take the reel on/off. Make sure to get the newest model all black seat with the rubber gasket. It will still rock a bit, but I've heard some guys wrap them on and shrink tube the ends for a tighter fit. They are like 8 bucks, any rod builder should have them.

-spence

o yeah, forgot about those.

do what spence said

:jester:
if i had an 11' lami'
i'd want a real seat on it:)

I would too...although I do have one on a 10' glass conventional. It's not really that bad, although I've never fought a really big fish on it either...

Never had a problem on the spinners. I'll do the full seat on any future rods though :smash:

-spence

Use a product called "Tommy Tape" it sticks to itself but nothing else! very comfortable if put on nice and neat also!

Mike carries it by the 30' roll for around $11-$12.00!


Thats what I used to use when I had tennessee handled freshwater spinning rods.

This stuff wont get gummy when it gets hot either!

if you have cork tape on the rod, make sure to put down a base of electrical tape over the cork. The cork tape gives alot and an electrical tape base will make it hard so the reel wont rock

I have 2 rods with my 706 taped on no problems at all do some raps clockwise an some counterclockwise.Landed fish up to 39# in a 5kt. current with one rod an four over 30 this yr with the other(A 11' lami).Just get a good tape go to hommies an get the thicker 3M product. u'll do just fine.screw them surf seats u gotta tape them anyways My bud ripped his off..An I can't imagine havin hose clamps on the part of the rod u hold onto.

Just digging info out of my notebook.

If you are using a tape-on reel seat (this info from Oznavad over at SOL) :

Underwrap where the seat goes with FRICTION tape, which is a cotton weave tape [you can get at Home Depot in the electrical section]. Then wrap the seat (in all three places) with ELECTRICAL tape. Make sure you stretch the electrical tape when you're wrapping it. The clasp part of the seat should be towards the butt, although it will work opposite as well.

I've used this method to securely attach larger conventional reels (Abu 7500 size) to 14.5 foot sticks with good success. This method also lasts pretty long too.

Stay away from coasters. I don't like hose clamps because all the tightening that has to be done.

I'll use the quality, 3M tape. Good point about the cork tape giving. I will keep that in mind too.
Someone convinced me to get this rod made without a reel seat so after I use it for a while I will know where I would want the reel to be placed to make it more comfortable. I don't notice any difference among all teh standard/production rods I have anyhow.
I guess I'll get the Fuji Plate seat soon after. Thanks for the suggestions.

Originally posted by PurpelNoon
Someone convinced me to get this rod made without a reel seat so after I use it for a while I will know where I would want the reel to be placed to make it more comfortable.
I've done the same thing, although now all my seats are basically in the same place, 26" for convench and 22" for spinners.

I got all worked up last year trying to put together a balanced spinning rig and I'm not sure it can be done unless you use a reel that's too big or add a lot of extra weight to the rod. You can't really move the seat all that much before it's not where it should be.

-spence

Spence,

Very true what you say, that there is only so much you can move it.
I have one rod with the plate seat and it is secured in pretty well, but when I have a fish on(even a small one) I feel the rod flex quite a bit under the seat. My preference is standard seats from now on.

Tape the reel in place, then tape in a figure 8 CW, CCW. The advantages of taping, is your hand does not get as cold and the reel is not permanent and you can adjust the reel until you get it just right on the blank!

I prefer taped on reels especially with light tackle because you can balance your outfit. Some of my fresh water LMB rods have had the orig. tape jobs for almost 10 yrs. I don't use an underwrap. The most important part of the process is to tape the reel to the rod with a non-stretch tape 1st. (medical tape works fine) This keeps the reel from moving period. Waterproof the 1st layer w/electrical tape and you're in business.

wrapping a reel on a rod w/ electrician's tape is a nice feel, but it has some disadvantages. the obvious one is that you have to take all the tape off to really service the reel. servicing a reel can be done by yourself w/ it taped on the rod, but it's a pain. if you take the tape on and off several times over the course of a season, the tape start pulling some of the cork/rubber tape from the area, you eventually have an indentation in that area, and it requires the rod to be cork tape after several seasons. one advantage, no metal to grab or hold onto in the cooler, late fall such as is on the plate-type reel seats.

when i do put e-tape on a reel over a rod, be sure to put e-tape under the area where the reel will sit and you plan on wrapping over. as discussed, this will protect the area after frequent removals of the reel and tape. this area of e-tape can be left on as long as the tape adheres to the cork tape. start taping the reel in place by wrapping over each foot several times and stretching the e-tape slightly. check to be sure the reel is going on straight. after several turns and verifying it's straight, i break the tape and go the opposite direction being sure to cover the entire area of the reel's feet so that there are no gaps for water to enter.

Great info. Thanks.

Tommy tape is the nuts.

2 layers of friction tape over the cork tape, then use electrical tape to hold the reel on.

The friction tape adds a little more protection to the cork tape and will not pull cork from the grip when removing it.

This was shown to me by an "old salt" when I bought my first Murat's custom back in the early 70"s

Bernzy

The Tommy Tape looks pretty nifty, anywhere to buy it in RI?

-spence

I've also used Tommy tape, but I found that it tends to soften up in warm weather and sunshine allowing some movement of the reel.

Bernzy