Who uses it for clear coat? I bought some Min-Wax Clear Gloss spray poly to try on my plugs. Just curious if anyone has tried it!:confused:

I gave it a try last year and wasnt too happy with it..:(

Did you know envirotex makes a spray too?? That I'd like to try someday, but shoot, I havent made a plug since april:(

Eben, what didn't you like about it?:confused: I did not know e-tex makes a spray?:eek:

I have used & like the Env. spray. (A.C. Moore with 40% off coupon):btu:

I used primarily as a sealer B4 epoxy, no bubbles or finger prints in the paint.

One issue is it seems to haze sometimes. Humidity maybe??

BF...does it say on the back of the can...interior,exterior an marine use? if not take it back to the store an get your $ back...poly as awhole is grade down from straight urethane.Poly is something they cooked up for homeowner projects because it dries faster. There's a big differents between polyurethane an just plain urethane...I've been using the crap for over 37 years.

Thanks Capesams......should I just buy a gallon of urethane and brush it on?:huh:

pints if they have them...it goes along ways. It' ll only go sour[dark] on you if it's not used up in a week or 2........always use turp's to thin,,never paint thinner. Course if you decide to buy a larger can an it goes south on you..it works just fine for sealing raw plugs....again thin it in half with turp's. after awhile the turp's will evaporate so u can always add more turps when it starts to get thick again.

Just a 50/50 mix Capesams? Just mix it together and brush on? Will it sag as e-tex does? Same characteristics?:confused:

Originally posted by BigFish
Eben, what didn't you like about it?:confused: I did not know e-tex makes a spray?:eek:

it didnt hold up to hook scratches, bloofish, rocks, etc...nothing beats a nice hard epoxy coating:)

You can use spar urethane, which is made is water resistant and also UV resistant. I know they have it at wal mart in a spray can but I don't know who makes it.

I use that as a scuff coat RR2.......not gonna stand up to abuse though!;)

not to hijack your thread larry.
but i was at the inlaws the other night.. and the finish on there piano was unbelievable!!!.
like glass covered wood!!.
hard as nails too.
might be worth looking into whats used on pianos. i'd like to find out myself:)
mike

BF..straight out of the can for a finish.....cut for sealing.

something that hasn't been said,,,,I fish the beaches only[an boat] there's really no need for a rock hard finish....now if you only fish in an around rocks that's a whole different ball game...in that case you guy's need to hire FishingF. to clear coat your stuff with clear auto coat....I'm sure he won't ho u to badly:hihi:

Thanks Capesams for your help! One last question....can I still seal with boiled linseed oil/mineral spirits and then use urethane?;)

Originally posted by capesams
you guy's need to hire FishingF. to clear coat your stuff with clear auto coat....I'm sure he won't ho u to badly:hihi:

who me? :huh: a ho?:blush:
never.
i'm an " exchanging engineer" :)

Isn't that a transfer engineer;)

BF.....remember..oil to oil to oil.

sealer
paint
finish

can't do any better unless u go auto urethane all the way.

capesams, you say oil to oil to oil, sealer, paint, finish, but what sort of oil finish do you mean?

oil=urethane and or poxy.

what FinishinF said....your sealers-paints-finish must meld together as one unit an just not sit on top of each other.

this is one problem alot of people are having...why is my finish peeling off.....or not sticking......cause the rule is you can't put oil on top of laytex......you can do it, but it's not going to last.

Capesams is RIGHT, Also this has been talked about many times............ Use the SEARCH FEATURE......................Best to Experiment Experiment Experiment...........................

o.k. boss....

HABS, telling people to use the SEARCH FEATURE is not acceptable on S-B.com. Maybe you should go somewhere else ;)

Krispy....let it go already! Either let it go or we can meet somewhere and deal with this like men, but don't keep protracting this out here on the site! I admit to losing my cool once in awhile, I am far from perfect, but at least I reach a point where I know I was wrong. When do you reach that point?:rolleyes:

If you are just funnin' then all well and good.....you have my apology for my going over the top! I am willing to move along. Hatchet already buried with T-Lap!;)

I only wish I could get set up right so I could use what Hab's is using....but for only doing a few plugs at a time, the cost of such a set up would not be worth the $$$. someday maybe.

Capesams....went out looking for straight urethane.....all I can find is poly and spar......does Min-Wax make a urethane and where can I find it? Tried Home Depot and a few local hardware stores.:confused:

try your local hardware store....or a town paint an supply...ask for zip-guard... your down this way alot..there's a town paint right off the mid-cape in harwich or hinckly's lumber across the street..or true value..service star...town paint is also on your side of the sagamore bridge..2 min's away, heading east. down by dunkin dooonuts.


ps...min-wax sucks.

Krispy....let it go already! Either let it go or we can meet somewhere and deal with this like men, but don't keep protracting this out here on the site! I admit to losing my cool once in awhile, I am far from perfect, but at least I reach a point where I know I was wrong. When do you reach that point?
Bigfish, I haven't reached the point to know I was wrong, because I wasn't ;)
And its funny to have you, of all people, to tell me to "let it go" since you dragged that crap through over a dozen different threads on this site. And lets not forget that little outburst about what youd do w/ my balls and butt :eek:
I didnt recieve any apology, so how would I know where you stand?? And this is a first threat/apology Ive gotten.
But Im man enough to except that your sorry and Im sure we'll meet face to face again sometime :err: :rolleyes:

McCloskey Marine Spar Varnish was the best I could find on my journey CS......didn't buy it though! I think Wal-Mart has the Zip Guard. Thanks again!;) Helpful as always.:D

Krispy....thanks for accepting my apology. I was unsure as to my degree of safety if you chose not to even half accept it.:eek5: But the face to face thing suits me fine, thats also the first time someone accepted my apology and then threatened me!:laughs:

If we need to carry this further, please feel free to pm me so we don't spoil the fun for the other members of the site.;)

My apologies to other site members for my part in this fracus.:)

who are you kidding, this IS the fun for other members :laughs:

My apology was sincere Krispy and I admit to being a poopee head. Wanna go fishing?;)

Originally posted by capesams


ps...min-wax sucks.

:uhuh:

Jumping in late on this but trying to play catch up...Was a member but my home system crapped out 1 year ago and I just got ballsy enough to log in on a work system....

I have not made any plugs but this winter planning to...In my earlier life I worked on Hardwood floors....we used to use sanding sealer and 3 coats of oil based urathanes to finish the floors. Yeah it yellowed over the years but very durable. We also used moisture-cure (gets yeah REAL HIGH ,even with a respirator..zylene based) for kitchen or high traffic areas if the customer requested it....non yellowing, hard as a rock and quick drying....I believe it was banned in a few states.....

Why not use oil based floor finishes for sealing and for top coats if oil paints are used fo color and detail? Aslo could stain the wood with a ebony stain ( MINWAX no bloching) and float black or purple oil paint in thte urathane....

Once again I have not made any plugs yet....

CS, i know what your saying and agree oil to oil to oil.Do you have any opinion, or experience with, --seal with oil--paint with water base-seal with waterbourne urethane. Sounds good but what do you think except for possible yellowing?Thanks Steve:)

waterbourne urethane?
dosn't exist.

the only thing I can say is when I was using acrylic paints and puting a oil clear coat on , it was going to peel as soon as the surface was compromised.....

now I tryed using acrylic clear coat cause I was using acrylic paint...guess what, it lasted just as long as the oil clear...I faced the fact that no plug was going to last an that was all there was to it.

oil sealer......acrylic paint....an some sort of 2 part waterborne clear coat should work fine,,,,,,,,,,,,just understand that where I fish there's only water and sand,,no rocks....so I can't say it'll hold up to any rock bashing.....the ONLY thing thats etched in stone that I know of is auto paint a clear coat, but we know a basement builder isn't going to go that route.

Thanks Steve,i've seen your plugs and the finish is awesome.Oil rules:btu:No doubt about it. OIL_OIL _OIL is the way to go.I know that an oil primer followed by latex is one way to go,and it would be nice to continue with a urethane water base finish.over the latex.If the stuff is not too $$ and i can get it in small quanities i will give it a try o ver the winter.

TFF,i never knew there was such a thing either as water base urethane ,but after doing a web search i found this product called Pro-Coat Milllenium which they claim is a clear self leveling 100% watrebourne urethane for flooring.Don't know how it would hold up over paint? Claims and reality can be two different things.What is yor gut feeling?
Dave

Here's some advice from a guy who has maintained a custom built wooden boat for the past 19 seasons and back in the 1960's helped his father maintain a series of wooden boats:

(1) Buy wood finishing supplies from a knowledgeable firm like Jamestown Distributors, Inc. in Jamestown, RI. Their printed catalog is very educational. Request a copy. Can now order on-line at www.jamestowndistributors.com Forget Home Depot. The only thing I buy at Home Depot is bags of shop rags. Home Depot sells low quality stuff at low prices. If you're going to spend precious time making fishing lures by hand, finish (coat) them using the right materials.

(2) Don't even think about using anything water based on a wooden lure. Use only oil based primers, paints, varnishes, etc. I use EPIFANES oil based varnish and ZINSSER, INTERLUX and Z-SPAR brands oil based marine paints and primers on my boat. You won't go wrong using oil based marine paint on wooden plugs.

(3) I've had good success using a lead-based enamel (I know lead is Verboten) on Cedar Plugs (tuna lures) I troll and cast for bass and blues (ask Flaptail) . I buy "ONE SHOT" brand Sign Painters oil based paint and clear coat from PEARL ART SUPPLY, Central Square, in Cambridge, MA. (I think PEARL may also be on-line.) In the 1950's my Dad used lead based enamel paint when painting our house. Lead-based paint worked great. Stood up to abuse. If you use lead-based paint just don't chew on your lures. Let the bluefish do that.

(4) I don't know much about epoxy-based coatings (despite the fact that I am a chemist by education) but I have successfully used BONDO MARINE epoxy filler (similar to BONDO auto body epoxy filler but designed for underwater applications) for fairing the hull of my boat and for filling in dents in the planking. This stuff lasts for years. I suspect epoxy is the ultimate coating for wooden fishing plugs but I don't own my lures long enough to bother with two-part epoxy coating because of toothy bluefish.


(5) Good luck!

like cs says.
how long is a lure spozed to last?
theres a huge line between form and function.

i bit a wooden plug painted with my stuff, and it dented.
i bit a fiberglass plug painted with my stuff, and i losened a tooth.

i wouldn't go crazy on the topcoat. it's what's underneath that matters.
and if the bloofish take it away, it's easy to make more:)
mike