Simple question (?)

What is the magic formula to sealing a plug before painting that will avoid bleed through and minimize expansion and contraction of the wood? I have a feeling that not only what you use but the conditions under which you use your chosen chemicals/preparations etc. are key as well. ie: dunk time, temp in the space, hang/drying time.

Would anyone care to share thier thoughts on this? Thanks in advance. ( not looking for trade secrets just basic info that will help me figure it out as I go along) Flap.:D

do a search under plug sealing,,,it's all there,,,,,plus! u just saw it at bm's last sunday I beleive...V.O

I tried that, after I drank a bunch my plugs were sealed good enuff.:smash:
but seriously, I can't find Val Oil in Vermont. Is it made by Valspar?

I saw it at Home Depot. There should be a cut rate listed on the back of the can for enhancing drying time/penetration Nes't Pas?:D

I've noticed that harder woods require a longer soaking time than softer woods, so when i soak my needles (did a batch a few minutes ago) i dunked them for about 3 minutes. then i dunked a AYC danny and i only did it for about 45 seconds.. I've been really hung up on minwax wood hardner as a sealer, for the AYC stuff, it makes it tough as nails and I havent noticed any problems with it except for the smell, but I have an enormous exhaust fan here at work so the smell isnt an issue.

No way dave is gonna seal his plugs.I was just comin round full circle to no seal an a light coat of urethane an go fishin i figure I can turn a plug on monday an be fishin with it wed.

I read where someone was usin japan dryer with Linseed oil an havin good result.any body try cuttin the ValOil with Penetrol or Jap Dryer.

I leave the softwoods down for 2 hrs. The hardwoods down for around 12 or overnite. I use VO Not Seagrams:D

Originally posted by Eben
I've noticed that harder woods require a longer soaking time than softer woods, so when i soak my needles (did a batch a few minutes ago) i dunked them for about 3 minutes. then i dunked a AYC danny and i only did it for about 45 seconds.. I've been really hung up on minwax wood hardner as a sealer, for the AYC stuff, it makes it tough as nails and I havent noticed any problems with it except for the smell, but I have an enormous exhaust fan here at work so the smell isnt an issue.

Eben, be careful with the wood hardner. It messes with your liver and can be absorbed through your skin

yuck.. no i never touch it...I have a plastic weldingrod container with a screw on platic cap and keep that filled with the wood hardner. Then I attach my plugs to a 1/8th rod and dip them, then hang them up to dry next to my furnace... so I never touch the stuff. Its about 120 degrees next to my furnace so it dries in about 2 minutes then i'm ready to paint :humpty:

Eben, is that that Minwax product that comes in a pint can with a screw top?

http://65.96.148.142/dsc01066.jpg

yes.. the problem is that the screw top is too small to dip plugs in there so I bought 2 cans of the junk and ppoured them into my welding rod tube.. If you go the minwax route, please use caution as Mac has said, it really does stink:yak:

And is extremely flamable

VO & turps... hmm CS, think if I recommend that to my VO customers, I'll get some complaints? :eek:

The VO I sell will ruin yer liver, just like that Wood Hardener Stuff, Except, I think the Wood Hardner would do it a lot quicker.......

Now, CS, isn't there another old timey product out there that's similar? I had the name, but I forgot it :o.... if it pops back into my head, I'll repost....

Waterlocks? Used to use it years ago to refinish furniture,