I want to go braid this year so...
What advantages does braid have over mono when pluggin'?
Ok it's:
thinner
stronger
more senstive
no stretch.

Currently I'd be using 20lb AN-40 w/ the diameter of 15lb.

Thinner/stonger-I'd probably go with 30lb and still be thinner that the mono and thus would cast better etc.- fine braid wins.

sensitive-How much sensitiviy do I need when I'm ch#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&' a swimmer?

no stretch- ok better hooksets, but I'm not throwin' bait. I think the mono can do fine gettin' the exposed hook of a plug set. Moreover can the braid be a hinderance, with pulled hooks? Wouldn't the lack of stretch keep a bass from gettin' the bait as well as w/ mono?

Seems to me that other than casting distance, mono still rules for plugs. As far as strength, I wouldn't even be able utilize it as my rod tops at 20lb.
After the cast the mono would allow the lure to be taken better instead of it taken away.
the stretch would absorb shock and keep bass buttoned.
And its so much cheaper, fine braid lasts longer in the long run, but in the event of a break off the braid is way more costly.
Thanx for the help.

I went to Power Pro last year and love it. Was using Yozuri Hybrid 20 before that. I will use lighter mono for schoolies early, then back to PP 50. I found the PP 30 to be too light to throw and had too many wind knots and breakoffs. Just my experience. Also use barrel to Seaguar 25, 39. or 40 lb leader.

It is tough to go back after you have cast with braid. Smooth.......

i love braid, only fault i find is lack of abrasion strenght or lack of (rocks). you did a good job listing advantages.

The only time where I've found that braid can give an angler the upper hand is when fishing in colder weather, where mono just gets so stiff you can barley cast with it. Other than that during the summer and early fall I use mono.

I love braid for plugging. In fact I've come to use it for most everything except for bait fishing off the beaches (damned backlashes on my conventional).

I use 80 lb test for live-lining around rocky areas to avoid cut offs (from my boat)....but be careful it can cut right through your fingers. I actually use a leader of only 30 lb test to make sure I can break off if I get a fish pot or get trapped in a rock.

i put braid on my wifes rod last year.i cast it about 3 times just to see how it felt.the next day i was putting braid on my rod.i fish eels you cant belive how much more sensetive it is i can feel those bass lookin at my eel.snake

Jisher, you should note that the above pro braid posts did not include one mention of the additional cost. I think that is because the perfomance more than offsets the cost, at least for the surfcasting I use it for.

One thing to figure out is how much you want or can put on your spool. I often see it in the 150 yd spools, but search for the 300. I personally hate when the knot to the backing is brought into play with the braid coming off the spool or laying back down. Could be my knot, but would rather that knot be buried at the bitter end, ie. as much braid as possible, as little backing as possible. For my set up, I need to buy 300 yd pack to do that. I should just buy the bulk spool as Bill and Juls told me they do. Only makes sense when you are sold on the weight and manufacturer, which I am.

:uhuh: I use Spiderwire braid for pluggin' ......works great!!

Jfisher, all of the aboved mention how much better it is. What I find most is you will definatly increase your hook set on a windy day as you will feel the strike on the braid and sometimes not even feel it at all on mono. if you can;t feel the fish then the hook set just doesn't matter. We fish Power Pro braid exclusivley now and Will not go back to mono. Couple of reasons.

Lasts 10 times longer
More line capacity on reels
Best for windy conditions
Longer casting distance
Better feel
Great for cod jiggin as it sinks faster and you can really hookum better.
Perfect for live bait.
No line coil memory.

If you are concerned with it being to tuff on hook set then just use a mono or florocarbon leader. We use are teaser rigs as the leader unless we are live bait fishing, then we use a 3 ft section of 50lb berkly big game for a shock leader and to prevent getting cut off by a rock, or being able to break it off if you get hung up.

We use 30 lb test on all of our light spinning rod. 7-8 ft medium heavy blanks with spinning reel that will hold 200 yds of 10-12 lb test line. For all of our Baitcasting reels we use 50 lb test and for Tuna we use 65-80 lb test for footballs. We take many clients out a year and have alot less problems with knots on braid then we did when we were using mono.

With braid, be more aware of how your line and reel work together... especialy in windy conditions.

One thing that you should do is get in the habit of flipping your bail manually and pulling the line tight. If you are fihsing doing the day take a quick look at the line and make sure it isn't rapped over the top of your spool.... If it is the next cast will be a mess and braid is a bitch to untangle. I have used all the different types of braids the past 4 years on various reels and the line rapping over the top of the spool happens to all of them.

Casting is a big plus as noted. i also ind braids are tougher. They are very much more sensitive which does help depending on how much line yu have out and the conditions.

Hooksets are a big plus but be careful you can also rip the lips off if not careful. You still should always use a mono or flouro leader when using braids.

agree with everything said, let me add that working different depth levels is MUCH better as well. Work a storm or jig just off the bottom is much more do-able in a strong current or wind with briad. I know for a fact that it was because of the briaded line I could put my lure in a spot where mono guys couldn't

Casting Big plugs + 30# PP is a recipe for a fingertip wound you will soon not forget. you need something on you finger. (I use waterproof medical tape) but there are a half doz options....don't forget it though or you will feel some real pain. The other neg is you need to put it on the right reel. Don't fill an old 706 with braid, you will be sorry. Get a reel designed for casting braid.


Braid on a conv is also a perfect match.

The best thing though is the SCREACHING sound it makes as it rips thru the guides....I love that!

Once you start using braid for jigging you will never go back. I do like mono better for working pencil poppers and other poppers. I also like mono much better around rocks. I have lost plenty of plugs at night when my braid got cut off on a rock. On an open beach I like braid best.

last year I sliced my finger DEEP almost to the bone with spiderwire. Took about a month to heal!! Now I definetly know to tape it or wear a glove. I'll be switching spools to mono when fishing around the rocks too. The spider frays real easy..

Last year I covered up the sliced fingers with a rubber finger tip often used by money counters and the like. Can get them at Staples, but if anyone finds them in the large size, grab me a box too. They're cheeeep. :thanks:

( I got sliced by the braid only when my skin was wet and soft, pilot error on release......)

Braids are best used on conventional. On a conventional you can use the heavier true braids. On a spinner you need thin or fused type "braids " and thos are less abrasion resistant and also very prone to cutting people. There is a science andf learning curve to using braids. don't get fooled into thinking its just a mater of putting a diffent line on the reels. You got to learn how to use them or you'll be stepping backwards in performance , not forward.

Fishing braid with heavy jigs in fast running water is a pleasure. I fish the ditch regularly and can get to the bottom with braid in less time than mono. The braid doesn't bow as does mono in current and allows for a better feel when the fish strikes. You also gain a lot of control when fishing plugs with braid. I like to say you can feel the fish fart with PP.

There is a couple of tips that I would pass on to those who are starting out using braid. This applies to both conventional and spinning Use a long shock leader and bring the leader back into the reel. There is no give to braid and when casting or loading your rod, you can actually damage a good rod. I tie either a Alberto or double uni when joining the lines and don't have any problems with a knot running through the guides. The mono leader also eliminates the chaffing of rocks and barnicles, allowing braid at all times. When the mono gets chaffed, it is a simple matter of just replacing a leader and keeping the PP at the proper level on your reel.

The second is to stop at a cvs store and buy a roll of adhesive tape. The old cloth style and tape your thumb where you guide the line into the reel. especially those who fish non - levelwind reels. Guiding a line in with a sizeable fish on can really take the skin and flesh to the bone. A little experimenting with the tape can save the thumb! Also, don't grab the braid when a fish is finally in. A quick thrashing of a blue or any fish can cause quite a cut hand. Another reason for a mono leader !!

:af: :rocketem:

i heard powerpro tends to cut into your guides more so than other braids

i heard powerpro tends to cut into your guides more so than other braids

You heard wrong.

Power Pro will make a rubbing noise on the seats. Same concern I had. With magnifiying glass could not see any damage to the seats. The only braid that I bought that cut guides was the Remington brand. You might find it at a discount, leave it!

Someone mentioned getting into the habit of closing your spinning rod bail manually. I second that. Every now and then, especially power pro, I will find a loop that gets on top of the spool. If you miss it and cast you will shoot out 10 yards of knots, or worse lose your plug. Having your line put on tight at home or a shop will help but still every once in a while from the wind you will get that excess on top of the spool.

I have been fishing PP on more than one rod and there isn't any wear on the guides. Normal wear on the tip. The tip takes most of the strain.

Spiderwire Stealth is the way to go.

All good info posted so far, eeling is great too 'cause you can "feel the bass breathe" on the eel :heybaby:

I heard that also. how much damage will it do to hardaloy/ceramic guides ??

I prefer PP to spider wire because the green part of spider wire has a tendency to slip off the white part. Power pro will not have this problem. Also I think pp gets less wind knots and it's more supple.
just my.02
Sport

I've been using braid almost exclusively now for 6 seasons and haven't noticed a single case of guide damage on any rod I own. Most have Fuji Hardaloy guides. One or two have Pac Bays. Tips are split between hardaloy and SiC. I've used Power Pro, Whiplash, Spiderwire Stealth, Rip Cord and Fireline. I used the old rough finished Spectron braid on my Canal jigging rod (Arra 126 1MH). If any rod was going to suffer guide damage, it would be the one I use to hump 5 oz jigs out of 40'+ depths with a line that'll cut your thumb like a bandsaw if you don't use a level wind. Not a trace of guide damage.

Carboloy guides are made for wire line, and braid will not hurt them either.

Braid will groove plated wire guides. So will mono.

RE: grooving

I use braid on St. Croix Tidemaster & Ben Doerr rods, Ugly Stix & Star Rods - never had a problem.

Good luck,

Roop

Mike P Thanks! I'm having that same canal rod built now-just wanted to be sure.

If you really want to place your mind at ease and want to save a few bucks over all-SiC guides, you could opt for a "mixed" set of guides. You could go with Hardaloy on the lower guides, and with SiC on the 2-3 nearest the tip and on the tip-top, as these bear the brunt of the friction when the rod is under a load. The price difference between Hardaloy and SiC is less in the smaller guide sizes than in, say the 20-30 mm size.

What MikeP said big time. Also more effective in the cast.

wow, this thread exploded.
Thanx again for all the info.