I have been applying e-tex over a metallic gold rustoleum paint and the e-tex goes on nice but fisheyes all over the plug leaving little pools where it did not adhere. I wiped down the plug with alcohol before I put on the e-tex. What causes this.

Striperhound,

I have found the same thing in the past when using metallics and gloss paints from spray cans. IMO, these paints have a smooth surface when dry and the E-tex doesn't have anything to grab onto when drying. Try lightly "scuffing" with a scotch pad. You can also keep an eye on the plugs when they're drying and touch up any fish eyes when you see them.

I've had similar problems and even once you do get coverage, the bond is not very good and a few good fish and the clearcoat will start to peel.

Had the same problems SH. I think it's just a compatability problem with that paint. Had the same problem with water based metallics.
If your wiping it down, mixing the e tex in the right proportion for 4 mins, and hitting it with your breath or sweeping it with a propane torch, then spinning it, it's not the e tex but the paint.

john e said it - try light scuff with scotchpad that should work. and be sure to put epoxy on thick enough.

I painted cars for 35+ years, I'll share what I've learned about "fisheyes" in finishes.
1. Cleanliness, your hands have to be clean,clean, clean. Wash 'em a lot with a non moisturizing soap. Lava is good.
2. Wiping fresh paint with alcohol isn't necessary, and may lead to other problems, even fisheyes! There's additives in most drug store type alcohols. Read and understand the content labels of all the chemicals you're using, it's not all about health yadayadayawn.
3. Control what aerosols are sprayed on the property. Pledge, silicone, window cleaner should stay in the cabinet when you're doing a run. Those tiny droplets aren't paint friendly.And they can travel astonishing distances. I once repainted a dumpbody because some rookie decided that was a good time to wash his car windows. :lossinit: His next lesson was wetsand 101.
4. If you get color on nice and smooth, then there is no reason that the clear shouldn't follow suit if you keep it uncontaminated.

I have been applying e-tex over a metallic gold rustoleum paint and the e-tex goes on nice but fisheyes all over the plug leaving little pools where it did not adhere. I wiped down the plug with alcohol before I put on the e-tex. What causes this.
After the re-read, I have to add that Metallic finishes do not clearcoat well. It maybe due to an additive used to make metallics look like metal. It's not like that in auto finishes, just the rattle cans versions that imitate real metal. Rustoleum is one of the worst. BUT, you can work with it to make some real cool effects. Spray rustoleum while still wet spray another color of another brand, let dry and clear twice. Play around with some scrap before you try your babies, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

I'll add my two cents on epoxy fisheyes... in addition to what the others have mentioned as possibilities. In my experience with rattle can products, including Krylon and Rustoleum, there is something in the carrier that needs time to "cure" or evaporate completely. I don't mean skin-over or feel tack-free... I mean cure. If you can still smell the paint, it's not cured.

I know, I know... sometimes it's not a problem. But summertime humidity slows that process dramatically.

Secondly, sometimes "we" play with the epoxy too much while brushing on... stroking back-n-forth, back-n-forth, trying to get that perfect coating. Epoxy doesn't need all that care. It's self-leveling in most instances, but won't flow where you don't put it, and won't stay where you don't put enough of it... the epoxy film looses surface tension and pulls back, causing the fisheye craters. Just make certain you're applying a uniform coat, stick it on your spinner, and check it after 15-20 minutes to make certain it's not bubbling (inadequate sealing) or fisheying. You can still fix it at this point -- depending on the brand -- with a toothpick dipped in leftover epoxy and dabbed on the spot.

Worst case, if it does fisheye, just let it dry tack-free (8 hours or so), and then just recoat. Nine times out of ten, the extra 0.1 ounce of epoxy won't harm the plugs action, and the fisheyes will magically disappear.

Good stuff PA ! The full cure tip is priceless. Krylon and Rustoleum are formulated to make the average Joe look real good. Additives that make the paint flow make fisheyes when covered in epoxy before a full cure. We all have our observations and experiences with finishes. The School of Hard Knocks if you will. Anyone else?

The aspect refered to as full cure is the free chemistry working itself off. All the chemicals left from the drying (curing) action. VERY good info!!
The fish eyes are a NON wetting result caused by the lack of surface tension, more real good info!
The school of hard knocks is just plain fact :claps:

Thanks for the help guys, Im going to try a few with the metalic and scuff to see how much it makes a difference.