OK, this isn't a plug you'd take home to meet your parents, it's not even one you'd want your friends to see you with, but if you've got a sense of humor, a kinky streak, a strong stomach, an appreciation of the unusual, or just like bass big enough to pull back, well then you might want to try this one.

The original was plastic, made by Magna Strike about 10-12 years ago. The ivory pearlescent color fishes well, really well. The other is a pine "copy" I made years ago (before aesthetics were invented). It has taken me some decent fish plugging rocky shorelines during the day by boat.

To make one, turn a cylinder the width of the shoulder (the widest part of the body) and an inch or so longer than the finished lure. Leave an inch of cylinder at the back of the plug (to support it when you bandsaw the plane). Cut down to the tail diameter and then shape the rear taper from the shoulder to the tail (the faster and thinner the taper, the bigger the tail will wag). Next turn a collar in front of the shoulder, and then the head, which is fractionally narrower than the body. Don't drill the plug yet. Go to the bandsaw and cut a diving plane at about a 25 degree angle. You can do this freehand since the inch you left beyond the tail and the shoulder will keep the plug level. Then cut the chin/mouth at an angle like a darter. On the original and my copy, the diving plane continues past/below the centerline of the plug by about 3/16 -4/16". Clean things up on a belt sander. The original has a flat diving plane. The one I made is rockered a bit. It doesn't seem to matter. Now drill a through hole starting in the mouth of the plug. Note that this is different than a usual darter where the wire is central, and more like a swimmer where the wire is off center. Finally, roll the plug over and, while supporting the head on the flat of the diving plane, drill your front hook hole in the fat part of the body (this will be deep and you may need a bigger swivel than you expect). Cut off the tail support, paint it better than mine and you are good to go. By the way, I've done well without weighting these plugs. The original is hollow plastic and floats like a cork. You need to pull it down before you start your retrieve, but the bass seem to love the rising action when you pause it. It casts better than you think. This thing is ugly and not as relaxing to retrieve as a metal lip plug, but I've found it to be very effective in all sorts of conditions and whoever invented it knew what he was doing.

Dimensions Original/"Copy" (note I don't think the dimensions are critical on this thing)

Length 6 1/4" / 7"
width 1 3/8" / 1 5/8"
tail 1/2" / 3/4" (slt less)
neck 3/4" / 1"
head length 1" / 1 3/16 "
head diameter 1 1/4" / 1 1/2"
diving plane 2" / 2 5/8" long (angle is about 25 degrees)
front hook 2 1/4 from front / 2 1/2 back
hook size 2/0 or 3/0 / 3/0
paper bag (to wear while using) large.

Good luck.

Another view. Don't gag.

...does it swim? Looks like a good winter project for a few boulder fields I know.

WOW, and Thank You... Nice write up.

And, as BBJ pointed out, you ain't no numbskull :)

Paperbag :scream: Looks good to me.

One more detail. If you can't drill on your lathe, you can through drill with your drill press as outlined in a prior thread, but you'll have to use a longer nail as the centering pin to clear the lower lip of the plug.

Nice write up...but....why not drill your hook holes before you cut the diving plane? Add the eyes if any at the same time.
I am going to give it a try. :bl:

I like that plug because it is so freaky looking.. I've already started.. one proto in sealer now . making for the swap .. Great info Numbskull .. always thought of it as a darter,, never acually fished one.. so its a swimmer class plug ..

Nice write up...but....why not drill your hook holes before you cut the diving plane? Add the eyes if any at the same time.
I am going to give it a try. :bl:

I find it difficult to cut the diving plane perpendicular to the hook hole (unless you make a jig which never seems worth it for one or two plugs) if you drill it first. By cutting the diving plane first you can use it (by supporting it with a thin block of wood on your drill table) to keep your hook hole perpendicular. For the same reason (and unlike with darters where the hole is central) I don't try to drill the through hole until after I've cut the plane and mouth freehand, it leaves me more margin for error when cutting the plane. If the mouth (and hence wire height) ends up slightly different from plug to plug, well then I stand to learn something about its effect on the action.

Good luck, I hope it proves worth your time.

I was assuming that the square ends were being left on the blank. I register my holes/eyes/lip slots using the square surfaces.

Nice job .
I can picture that thing popping out of someones chest , ala Alien . :bl: