any pros or cons?
i found a gallon in the basement and tried it on a few plugs.
seems to work pretty good to me. dries pretty quick too?
any reason NOT to use it as a raw wood sealer :huh:

I use it and don't find that there is any penetration. I think it is more a surface primer that should be used after sealing (if you feel sealing is necessary). As a primer it dries quickly, bonds to the wood well, bonds to following layers of airbrushed paint well and there aren't the nasty odors you get with non water based paint. It can be sprayed if thinned but it will clog your airbrush. If you decide to spray it on use some kind of inexpensive external mix brush/gun or you will find yourself spending a lot of time cleaning your airbrush. Remember it dries fast and is tough to get off.

You taklin' about zinser bin shellac(clear), or zinser bin primer(white)?

I used the shellac on some of the first plugs I built. seemed ok, but I decided to strip 'em down, make 'em purty and seal them with the usual linseed/spirits a few months later after the toothy critters got to them, and the epoxy cracked here and there, I would imagine due to the wood swelling, and a poor seal.
they were moldy in places :eek:

the primer I have used just as primer, but only after sealing, so no real comment on that.

Mike,

Don't bother, it's not a sealer and no, it does not penetrate. It's good for sticking to hard, slick surfaces like plastic, linoleum etc and it will seal ANY stain or smell. I have found that the createx paints don't stick well to it at all although your paints might stick.

-Dave

thanks,
yep i was talking about the white stuff.
my paints work very well with it.
figgured it was worth asking. i been using two part epoxy, but a gallon can is alot more convient to dunk plugs in than mixing up a little at a time and trying to pour it in every hole which wastes alot when your only doing a plug at a time.

anything in gallon form i could use?
i like the idea of just opening the can and dunking.
having the sealer allways at the ready.

Mike - i tried that stuff. works well and paint sticks fine. I found that it is not "wata pruf". Water penetrated the plug and the finish cracked. The plug also got heavier the longer I fished it.

I use Zinsser Oil based primer sealer. I also cut it with turps about 1/3 turps to 2/3 cover stain sealer. I get good penetration and it sands smooth leaving a good prime coat.

I made a plug priming rig from 4" PVC. I made it 15" long and it is sealed on one end with a cap - open on the other end with a screw on cover. I usually mix only enough primer to fill the container 1/2 full leaving room to dunk and tip over end to end. I use the mix untill it gets dust and crap in it leaving lumps on the plugs that are tough to get off. It is always at the ready to prime one or a number of plugs at one session. I use a pair of tongs to grab the plug and hang it to drip dry.:wid:

thanks,
yep i was talking about the white stuff.
my paints work very well with it.
figgured it was worth asking. i been using two part epoxy, but a gallon can is alot more convient to dunk plugs in than mixing up a little at a time and trying to pour it in every hole which wastes alot when your only doing a plug at a time.

anything in gallon form i could use?
i like the idea of just opening the can and dunking.
having the sealer allways at the ready.

Some guys use minwax wood hardner, you can buy it pretty much anywhere in gallon size. Maybe someone who has used it can chime in.

I use the standard linseed/mineral spirits. bought an empty paint can from homies, dumped in the proper mix, and my last mix is still in there, three months, and plenty more dipping to be done. Of course it takes forever to dry.
Minwax apparently dries overnight.

I was thinking that DuPont 222s or 480s might make a decent wood sealer. The 222s is an automotive midcoat (Real thin clear lacquer) designed to make paint stick. 480s is a jambing clear. again lacquer. If you're painting at the shop should be no problem.

i dont like the minwax stuff. use something else.

Mike, i use the bin shellac based spray primer 24 hrs after i seal, by dipping in a urethane based sealer. i like it as it adheres really well to the hard urethane sealer. Then, use acrylics about 1/2 hr after the bin following your "don't wait too long" painting adherence advice.:hihi:

DON'T USE BIN.

Its a pigmented shellac.Its a sealer just not a penetrating one.Even dewaxed shellac like Zinnser's Seal Coat doesn't penetrate all that well.Any shellac based primer/sealer has absolutely no value when it comes to painting plugs.None.
Shellac based products have no use in exterior applications.

Wanna seal wood?If your looking to be able to sand within the hour use Zinnser CoverStain(tint to base color)cut 25% with Hi-Flash naptha.If you're really looking for awesome penetration as you might want with tight grain wood cut it with Penetrol.Unlike linseed oil you'll be able to sand it within your lifetime,a few hours in ideal conditions works.

ah-ah!! :think: might help if i read the whole lable :rolleyes: says right down the bottom "not for wet surfaces, or water immersion".
thanks for the help guys !
time to start making plugs that will last in the brine, and not just look pretty :rolleyes:

i like the 1 hour idea !!
i'm very impatient

After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.:heybaby:

After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.:heybaby:


thank you!
i can't wait four days from sealer to primer .

Virtually anything that penetrates and doesn't kill you and the family (like minwax penetrating sealer) takes days to dry before a water based primer and/or paint can be applied. Even using an oil based primer over a penetrating sealer requires quite a bit of drying time before it can be applied. Have patience or don't seal. Because of the smell, and the resulting complaints from my family, I stopped sealing/painting with materials that generate organic vapors and have been sticking with water based paints. Sealing may help a plug last longer but most of the revered wooden plug makers of the past, like Gibbs, didn't use penetrating sealers on their plugs. A trick I use in lieu of sealing is to finish the plug, and before I through wire and hang hardware, pour/squirt linseed oil through all the openings in the plug. This will seal most of the problem areas, and allows you to finish and fish the plug right away. The areas that it doesn't protect are the holes made from the pentration of fishes teeth or chips from bouncing off rocks. those will have to be touched up before the water penetrates and damages the surrounding paint. Remember, many of us are using water based paints that are not water proof. They just look great! When I used rattle cans I had few of these problems. The oil based paint had better penetration and was much more water resistant. Rattlecan primer actually does get a little pentration, and helps seal water away from the water based paints. Createx and other water based paints can be applied after allowing the rattle can primer to dry overnight.

Excellent point about water base paints ! As such, for better protection and durability I have been using rattle cans again lately as my primary color then shoot with airbrush for hi-lighting. I didn't think Gibb's sealed their plugs. They always seemed to peel and flake over time.