Yami 200 hpdi, has been running fine, ran 30" last pm without a hiccough, slowed to idle to anchor up, shifted once or twice, then it shut off while in idle (not during a shift) without so much as a cough or sputter. Sorta like I pulled the safety lanyard. Thereafter it would spin until the battery quit, again without a cough or sputter (actually it just once gave a little 1/2 cough). Changed out the water separator, and the secondary filter on the engine, drained the vapor separator (but didn't go after the filter in there).......still no sign of life. Vacation starts tomorrow, no one will look at it for next midweek. I'm thinking it's electrical. Any ideas? Thanks.

You could get a spark tester from an autoparts store. Connected it to your plug and the plug wire. Crank the engine and if has spark it will light. Drain the Carbs and give it a shot of starting fluid (Just a Shot)....

Obviously this is someones fault, and they should be held responsible. Sorry to hear it man, good luck with the trouble shooting. these things always happen at the worst time.

I would start by troubleshooting the ignition system as MTC said.

I'd check the spark first and if there isn't any check both the kill and ignition switches, they can and do go bad.

HPDI - no carbs to drain but there should be a small filter you can change (check for water) or replace. I would guess it might sputter at least a little though. Check the spark like mentioned above. Not much to do for the backyard mechanic on an HPDI

look on iboats.com in the yamaha forum.
tons of info there....

Thanks guys. No spark. Got continuity across the kill switch (with clip out) and continuity across the shift/neutral switch. The fuses seem OK. Not quite sure how to check the ignition switch, though I've got power to the starter and gauges. Looking like something only $$$ will cure. Ugh.

http://www.outboard-motor.net/yamaha/

Learned a few things (the hard way of course). Turned out it was my fuel pump. Got burned using a spark tester (faulty)and the service manual (which said continuity when they meant current) and replaced a $300 fuse box first. Turns out a better way to test for spark is a squirt of starter fluid. If she starts and runs briefly, you've got spark. After that it got easy. Filters clean, no noise from the fuel pump with the switch on, confirm current to the pump, replace pump, gag at price ($900), back in business.....who needs to eat?