Anyone using it yet?

The ability to CLEANLY splice leaders in w/o and problem whatsoever seems a better and better idea every time I think about it.

Do you need to use some kind of glue ? It certainly does sound better than tieing a shock leader knot. Alot simpler (I like simple)

bunch of half hitches with rigging floss or the like and a spot of glue at the end of the braid.

goes through guides silently.

just ordered some Line One 60lb 300yds

we'll see how it performs.

You digging in the offshore catalogs again?

I have the JB hollow, 130 lb. on my bigger reels. I haven't been able to thread the mono through the hollow core yet, but the loop to loop connection works great. I was thinking about the 60 lb. for my spinning reels, tell us how you make out. Did you get the rigging needle?

[QUOTE=striprman]


Have we had enough of this signature pic.

I have the JB hollow, 130 lb. on my bigger reels. I haven't been able to thread the mono through the hollow core yet, but the loop to loop connection works great. I was thinking about the 60 lb. for my spinning reels, tell us how you make out. Did you get the rigging needle?

I've got rigging needles already for doing dacron loops so I'm all set in that department.

I was talking about the hollowed out needle. I think they are about $50 each. Method One took me about a half hour to insert 8" before I gave up....

Method One: Without Special Tools

Many fishermen are proficient at inserting mono directly into hollow Line One.

Start by sanding the last ½ inch of the mono into a smooth, tapered but not sharp, tip, a bullet shape. It is very important to use very fine sandpaper, 600 grit is needed for the finishing.

Open the end of the Spectra by bunching it up a bit to start, and then insert the end of a doubled piece of single strand wire (about 30# wire will do) to open the weave for 3-5 feet. A better way is to use a solid stainless steel needle (about 8" long). These are available from two sources.

After the braided line is open, slip the mono into the end. By holding the mono still, you may then work the braided line onto the mono, inch-by-inch, until 3-5 feet have been inserted. NOTE: You put the Spectra onto the mono, not the reverse. You must stretch out the Spectra on the mono each time you slip some on. If you don’t, you won’t be able to complete the operation.

Method Two: Using Special Aids

Inserting mono is greatly facilitated by the use of 8-inch long stainless steel needles with a ½ inch hollow portion in one end. These tools come in various sizes to match the size of monofilament being inserted. See reference for sources and tips. Choose a needle about the same diameter as the mono being used. Next with a single edge razor blade cut the last ½ inch of the mono to a fine sharp, thin point. Insert this pointed mono into the hollow end of the needle until it jams in tight and will not fall out. Now, guide the hollow braided line onto the stationary needle, thence onto the mono for 3-5 feet. The needle can then be removed by pushing it carefully through the sidewall of the tubular line, releasing the mono to remain inside.

Forming the "Chinese Finger"

After using one of the two methods above, the next step is to make sure that the mono does not slip out before the Chinese Finger Cuff has a chance to tighten its grip and hold. The "Chinese Finger Cuff" holds the mono tightly only when under tension. There are three methods of making sure the Chinese Finger Cuff holds

Method One:

The oldest, time-tested, method employs the use of a series of tightly drawn half-hitches using waxed dental floss or 30 lb test Spectra line. About two inches of half hitches are made on the braided line with the Mono inside and ½ inch of half- hitches onto the mono alone. The ends of the half-hitches are then buried in the same manner a rod builder does it (no adhesive is needed but may be used as an aid to assembly). Only this one series of lashing is needed; a second one would be counterproductive. The end of the mono inside the braided line must be free so that when pressure is applied, the braid can be stressed tight throughout the length of the mono inside. Putting glue on any point other than the transition point where the mono exits the braided line weakens the Chinese Finger Cuff. To hold the lines while making the half-hitches, a device with two clamps is sold. You can devise your own or solicit help from someone who will hold the line while you half-hitch.

Method Two:

A recent innovation employs the use of a small metal sleeve that is slipped over the Spectra / mono junction and then, with special pliers, crimped tight. Properly done, this is all that is necessary to hold the braid on the mono so that the Chinese Finger Cuff can hold the two. This method is much faster than half-hitches but requires sleeves to match each combination of mono and braided LINE ONE Spectra you choose. Instructions come with a handy kit. See references for sources.

Method Three:

A third, very easy method of insuring that there is always tension for the Chinese Finger Cuff is a simple overhand knot formed over the Spectra mono combination about ½ inch from where the mono emerges. The only disadvantage is that the knot is somewhat larger than the two previous methods. It is fast and near 100%.

yes, they use the needles for rigging dacron splice wind ons too

Please can you tell me who is making the 60lb hollow core? I had only seen 80 up to this point and that was by PowerPro and one other offshore guy. 60 would work for me and a splice sure beats tying a Bimini twist to make a loop. Thanks

Jerry Brown

Thanks, I'll look into it.

got 60lb and 80lb

the 80 is for an avet sx 2 speed :hihi:

60lb is getting spooled on a magged avet (although im gonna mag the 2 speed at some point for ballyhood/big lure pitching)

it seems nice.
its limp as hell
and white, so go long on the topshot

how did i miss this
You digging in the offshore catalogs again?
YOU

don't make me slap you with schoolies
:rotf3:

hahaha that dues is posessed:devil:

I went offshore with a friend last week who loves braid more then me. He had two 80w tiagra's that had hollow core 130# (PP)and the long heavier leader slides in nice and goes thru the guides like you don't even know it is there. His were made up by fishermen's outfitter I think and they did a nice clean job. The splice is actaully pretty long , didn't measure it but it looked to be a long way up the line.

BTW, next season I am putting braid on my offshore reels, no more mono. MUCH better fighting a fish, no question. I also got to try out a couple new accurate reels...very nice, great smooth drag but I like the feel of the Shimano's better, they have a better ergonomic handle for my liking and when you are fighting a big fish it is more comfortable for a stand up set up IMO.

Avets are the way to go.

+ i dunno how many weeks report.

I LIKE Jerry Brown hollow personally.
More than PP. Way more.

Very very slick, casts like pp, rebuilding topshots is easy to do and it won't chunk your thumb if you like long leaders on convenchs.