I just finished up a little experiment last night were I soaked 4 plugs overnight in seawater. The plugs were made of through drilled basswood. (No natural oils like cedar)

Plug #1 - 12 hour soak in 60/40 boiled linseed oil/min spirits

Plug #2 - 5 minute dip in 60/40 boiled linseed oil/min spirits

Plug #3 - No sealer- raw wood for benchmark

Plug #4 - dipped in unthinned Zinsser cover stain approx 1 min. to soak thru-hole and brushed off with cheap brush. (this plug was an afterthought as I really just wanted to see difference between the first 3)

My plan was to weigh each plug before the test and again each hour for as long as I could stay awake and then again in the morning. (cont..)

The plugs sealed with the oil were left to dry for 2 weeks inside at room temp before the test. The plug that soaked for 12 hours was much darker and heavier than the plug that was soaked for 5 min. as one would expect. (it also took much longer to dry)

The plugs were small 3 1/2 inch popper bodies 7/8 in diameter.

I noticed after 2 hours in the water, the smell of oil was getting stronger.

I was able to get hourly weights for 6 hours before I fell asleep.

I tracked the increase in weight in grams and was verry surprised by the results. (I will post the results next)

Plug # 1 (12 hr oil) Total gain =5.1 grams

Plug # 2 (5 min oil) Total gain =4.0 grams (no, I didnt mix them up!)

Plug # 3 (unsealed) Total gain =7.6 grams

Plug # 4 (cover stain) Total gain =2.0 grams

I have no idea how or why plug # 1 took on more water than the one that was soaked for only 5 minutes. I also was very surprised by the plug with just the cover stain. I'm thinking about another experiment with a thinned out version of cover stain in multiple coats.
If your interested in the hourly breakdown I can get that for you also.

I'm using val oil ,,but soak for much shorter periods now 2 hrs. I use to forget about them,, left some down for days.. Had a severe case of paint shrivel on those .. Your test insn't done for about a month ,,until you see how paint reacts to sealer overkill .

I dont see myself using the linseed oil much anymore after this.
It seems that the water almost disolves it or something.

I may try the same thing with Tung oil, or Val oil if I can find it.

I forgot about some super dry 30 year old pine I left in the a Val-terp cocktail for 30 hours. It still smells like terps a year later. Epoxy fell off first time I trolled them but I still use them anyway. I too now go 2 to 3 hours max for soft wood and 5 or 6 max for Maple. Seems to work. I still get the terp smell but I let them dry for 2 weeks in my sun room and it seems to disappear evenutally. I hate that stink. Thanks for the test results. P.

thanks, I had some poppers and needles split this fall, they may have been broom handles or they were wooden dowels, I was useing val and paint thinner 50/50 they may have been bad wood, but the paint stuck good:jester: ed

all the old houses that had wood gutters.........where i grew up

had cans of linseed oil in the basement...
the gutter drain hole got plugged first.........
they would pour the whole gallon or two into the gutters

and then let it soak in..... going back and brushing it around during a sunny week ...or longer...

later...after seeing some of these old wooden gutters
taken down to
be replaced by lighter metal ones...

i noticed that the wood had finally rotted and the acidic PH of
the rain had washed all the linseed oil away...

Next time somebody does a test, let me know. I want to see how my CPES does, It has worked awesome for me so far, but I would like to do a side by side comparison.

Next time somebody does a test, let me know. I want to see how my CPES does, It has worked awesome for me so far, but I would like to do a side by side comparison.

you use primer with that or paint right over it ?

What exactly are you looking for?? :huh:

Water weight gain?

I know that there is no sealer that will seal 100%, but the less water that gets in the less the wood will expand and cause paint issues.

I guess I was looking for a larger difference between the weight gain from the unsealed wood and the oiled wood.

The best thing I have done is to seal em with epoxy.if ur gonna do big batches an be a big time builder it's not for U.
I heat the wood in a small toaster oven then apply some sb-112 systems three.basically brushing it on till it does no absorb any more.Whipe off the excess an hang to dry...pour some in the thru holes an use a pipe cleaner to work it thru.Makes for a plug that is durable from the inside out.absorbs no water an the finish holds up better because the wood is tougher..U have to take into consideration it will add some weight to the plug..So if u have a fickle swimmer u may have to make some adjustments..T paint I lightly scuff em up an whipe with will-a bond an prime an paint..

you use primer with that or paint right over it ?

Three coats of cpes, then 3 coats of bin primer, no adhesion problems if I skip primer, as long as I sand. But I always prime. I have never noticed any of my plugs take on water. Cpes sucks to work with and is pricey, but has been the best solution for me. Its $200 for a 2 galon kit, but I barely dented that supply after a year. Tagger, you are close to me so if you want to try some out let me know, I'll put some in bottles for ya.

The best thing I have done is to seal em with epoxy.

Do you thin the epoxy with denatured alchohol?

No i don't wanna break it down.heating the wood up allows it to soak in pretty good.

I am not sure why so many people have lots of thoughts on the sealing question........after using plugs for a long length of time, belly hooks and bluefish teeth wear into the plug and water will eventually get in contact with bare wood and start soaking a bit......it happens.

When I was a kid I had some molds that I use to inject resin and microballoons and make epoxy poppers, I may experiment with them more some winter.

The best thing I have done is to seal em with epoxy.if ur gonna do big batches an be a big time builder it's not for U.
I heat the wood in a small toaster oven then apply some sb-112 systems three.basically brushing it on till it does no absorb any more.Whipe off the excess an hang to dry...pour some in the thru holes an use a pipe cleaner to work it thru.Makes for a plug that is durable from the inside out.absorbs no water an the finish holds up better because the wood is tougher..U have to take into consideration it will add some weight to the plug..So if u have a fickle swimmer u may have to make some adjustments..T paint I lightly scuff em up an whipe with will-a bond an prime an paint..

I herd about that technique this fall. Definetly not for mass quanties of plugs though. What the hell is cpes?

Clear penetrating epoxy sealer, Best thind I've tried. Tagger came over to see for himself this afternoon. I wonder if he is still buzzed, its stong stuff. Its made by Smith&Co, and is a viscous epoxy that penetrates and hardens wood. I put on three coats, and can fish a plug all night without taking on water. I can also paint 24 hours after the last application. Its expensive, but I put two coats on 15 plugs today and only used an ounce and a half. PS, Thanks for coming over Tagger, one of those needles I sealed with you has your name one it, and thanks for the goodies!

Charlie ,,, Thanks for the chem buzz and the lesson .. I'm saving my sock money for a batch . Besides sealing well I like the fact it makes the wood harder underneath paint .

Your right its a little on the pricey side 37.50 for 2 pints.

What is the pot life on the CPES?

Are there different hardeners for different times like West Systems?

I have great success w/Pettit Old Salem Clear wood sealer. Dunk the plugs for a minute, swab out all the holes, esp. the thru-wire and hang dry overnight. Never ever had any water-intrusion or topcoat issues.Even on my most rock-beaten, bluefish battered old plugs.

About $20.00/qt.

What is the pot life on the CPES?

Are there different hardeners for different times like West Systems?

They make 2 formulas, warm and cold. Warm is for 86deg down to 50deg with a pot life from 4hrs at 86deg to 16hrs at 50deg.The cold formula is for below 50deg with a pot lfe of 8 hrs.

Priming is optional.

If its water weight gain your worried about why not just disolve some Midol in whatever your going to use for a sealer mixture. That should take care of it at least for a month. :cheers:

Your right its a little on the pricey side 37.50 for 2 pints.

$15.00 more for 2 quarts ..

They make 2 formulas, warm and cold. Warm is for 86deg down to 50deg with a pot life from 4hrs at 86deg to 16hrs at 50deg.The cold formula is for below 50deg with a pot lfe of 8 hrs.

Priming is optional.

WHOaaa Dog !!! you been holding out on me .. I'm getting the warm weather formula .. Cold weather has so many solvents you'll OD on chem buzz . Must be done out side .. I can get away with warm weather formula inside because paint booth is venting fumes and heating dollars out the window .

WHOaaa Dog !!! you been holding out on me ..

How can a student hold out on his Professor, Eddie. :doh: :D

Ya never listen to your elders anyway, for instance,

blue/black, blue/black, blue/black. :rotf2:

$15.00 more for 2 quarts ..


Just a bit more till my 2 gallon kit:tooth: