:af: :splat: :liquify:

OK.. first, let's just say i'm a novice with power tools.. been using the lathe for about a year.. getting acceptable results... i've got most everything to a level of proficiency that i'm satisfied with EXCEPT the freakin' bandsaw..

here's the problem... i've tried to set it up just like the directions (which are lousy) say.. but i can't cut straight.. last night for example, i was cutting some AYC (2X2's) into lengths to be used on the lathe. no matter how slow i go, or how straight i try to keep things as i move the wood into the blade, the blade seems to torque to one side and make an angled cut... same when i'm trying to do lip slots..

it always turns to the same side... (my right) i've tightened the blade, loosened the blade, adjusted the little fiber blocks on each side of the blade... i'm about to go postal and throw it through the wall!! no wait... that's where my plugs are..:hs:

:call: help!!!

i know that on my jet i had to adjust the blade for perfect cuts-pia, but worth it. get a test piece adjust- test- adjust - test 'till it's good.

Buy a compound mitre saw....its alot quicker and you won't get that blade inflection.

i know that on my jet i had to adjust the blade for perfect cuts-pia, but worth it. get a test piece adjust- test- adjust - test 'till it's good.


what types of things did you adjust?:wall:

Buy a compound mitre saw....its alot quicker and you won't get that blade inflection.


two issues there.. 1) i'm broke 2) my shop is VERY small and i already have tools sitting on the floor when i'm not using them.. 3) I'm broke..

do you use the mitre saw for just cutting stock, or for lips too?

also, i'm hoping to cut out some handcarveds at some point so i gotta get this figgured out.

put a wider blade on if you can

there is nothing worse than trying to use a power tool that is inadequate for the job. Another words, small cheap bandsaws are mostly for hobby type stuff, very thin wood. Maybe the saw is not strong enough to hold the blade tightly enough. Bandsaws are fickle and have to be tuned just right, p.i.t.a. I know.

if you have a table saw you can crosscut with that
if you have a handsaw you can do lip slots with that

No.....use the bandsaw for lip slots! When you can try and pick up a new or used compound mitre. Worth the money. Keep your eyes on the classified forum! New Dewalt is about $120.00.....might find a nice used one for around $50.00!

:behead: Wife and kids got me the bandsaw.. it's a inexpensive delta.. but i think others use it with success.. so it's not the best i know, but i think it should be useable..

a wider blade might be the ticket.. tobias i think suggested a thicker one too..

maybe i'll just use a hatchet..:mad:

i adjusted the four metal sideblocks and the rollers. if it has blocks it should be adjustable...mine was a pia to get just right. also correct blade tension is a must. like bruce said a wider blade may help..

TB,i think what your problem is is trying to set your fence up parraell to the bandsaw blade. ever blade will cut diferantly even on larger sawa. what you have to do is is set your fence up at what ever angle is necesary to cut a straight line.so your fence that is guiging your work piece might not be square to the blade.

not using a fence for cutting the stock to length.. sounds like part of what i need to do is use something else for that.. maybe a mitre saw in a mitre box?

so what LI is saying is that i should just compensate for the angled cut?

I use a hand coping saw for all my lips. $10 at Homies. I tried using my band saw with the smallest/thinnest blade I can buy and still makes the lip slots too big. I like the tight fit the coping saw gives.
I use a piece of tape as a guide to follow......easy to get the hang of.
Takes 1 minute longer than the band saw, but is worth it. I screw less of them up and it is more forgiving. One slip on the band saw and your plug is scrap.
I have some rubber in my vise so I don't mar the wood (usually still needs a quick sanding afterwards) and saw the lip. Cuts like butter and is easier to stay on line.
Good alternative for you and cheap.

for cutting lenghts - mitre..

Where are you located? I may be selling a used miter saw soon.

is to quit banging your head against the wall :wall:

and grab all your stock that needs to be cut straight

then go over to someone elses house who has

a miter saw and make a bunch of cuts....all at once.

then you can still make plugs while taking your time
figuring out a solution.... with peace of mind.:wiggle:

so what LI is saying is that i should just compensate for the angled cut?

pretty much

Where are you located? I may be selling a used miter saw soon.

maybe when the alien abduction is over with.:hidin:

I have one of these.....come get it and it's yours.

thanks a ton for all the good advice...

regarding that used saw... i'm just down the street in North Carolina.:sled:

TB;
I have that same saw. I can cut a die straight line in wood!!
I had to adjust both sets of blade guides; above and below the table. Then I got a good 18 and 24 TPI blade. Since I adjusted the saw and made a good wide table for it I am able to cut the slope head angle on swimmers, canal flat on poppers to an exacting result. The cut requires minimum sanding!
PM if you think I can help you out.

One question; Are you using the thin blade that came in the saw? if yes, go to Lowe's and get an 18 TPI blade in the 59 1/2 inch length and let me know when you have it!

I think you may be having a BLADE problem. If the blade is tracking to one side it may have lost it's set on one side. Did you accidently hit a nail or something hard that took the set off one side? Did you run the blade blocks into the blade itself. If the blade is tracking on the wheels and all else is adjusted Ok, it is usually the blade itself. Before you give up, check the set on the blade, it should be equal on each side of the blade. Also be sure the tension is correct on the wheels.

If all fails - send it ton Numbskull - he can use it for his awsome curves......:hf1: :hf1: :hf1:

[QUOTE=gone fishin;449744] Also be sure the tension is correct on the wheels.

QUOTE]

what is "correct"?

Please refer to post #20 :D I know exactly what's up wid dat.

The sugfgestion that the set of the blade is bad is a good one. That was the first thing I looked for on mine. The bottom line here is blade quality and guide adjustment.

The setup instructions for band saws can be found on the Delta website http://www.deltamachinery.com/. Register in order to access the Tips & Techniques section dealing with band saws. As Don mentioned, the guides aren't set properly, but you may have other problems. See the tips on resaw setup.

The blade that comes with it the saw is crap. I got another one and
what a difference.

Blade deflection is caused by 3 things,improper blade tension,improper guide adjustment and trying to force your workpiece thru the saw. Set your top guides as close to the workpiece as possible,your bottom guides as tight to the table as possible and allow the saw to cut and your problem should be solved.
The key is to minimize free space between the guides.

I went through the same thing when I bought my bandsaw.

You have 2 sets of guide blocks, one set is above the table the other set is below. You need to loosen the machine screws on both sets and push the blocks in towards the blade. You want the space between the blocks and the blade to be about the thickness of a dollar bill.
Also, you have 2 thrust bearings that face the back of the blade. One is above the table, the other is below. You want to push them in towards the back of the blade, close but not touching.

I hope this helps.

Bernzy

thanks again to everyone... I had already done the "adjustments" everyone referred to.. just went to Lowe's and bought the blade charleston recommended.. put it on.. check the settings (didn't have to adjust anything) and Ta Da!!! straight as an arrow...

you guys are the best..

i still think a mitre saw will work better for the cuts of stock though..

Many thanks.. much frustration is now gone..I'm a happy little fat guy again!!:happy:

Look in craigslist for a chopsaw sometimes they are going real cheap in there.

One day I was in HD looking at tools. I saw this Mikita sliding compound miter saw! I had never seen anything quite as nice as that machine. I had to have it!! I mean it would everything but the dishes. Yup I bought it! $498 bux! +tax =$528
I now use it to cut my AYC to length. It cuts nice square glass smooth end cuts that I throw away after the plug is turned!! Fivehundredandtwentyeightbucks;) ;)

Sears usually has cheap chop saws. The amount you use it making plugs or stuff around the house is never going to wear it out.

I had a similar problem with my Jet, then Bernzy stopped by and showed me how to set it up right :smash: :love: A fence will definitely help. Sears sells a universal bandsaw fence for around $20. Works pretty well. If I need real straight cuts I'll also use a clamp on the other end of the fence. If you do not want to string for a fence, clamp a piece of lumber to the bandsaw and use that as your fence.

Jigman

i think the piece of lumber fence will have to work for right now.. maybe the sears thing later.. looked at that before.. wasn't sure it would work

You need to tune a bandsaw to get it to cut right.
First, take off the covers and without a blade on it adjust the top wheel in or out so it aligns with the bottom wheel (use a long straight edge)
Next, put on a blade and spin it until it tracks on the crowns. Then shim the table to get it square.
Then, adjust your guides to a dollar bill thickness clearance right and left.
Bring the thrust bearings to just touch the rear of the blade.
Next tension your blade tight. On small saws it is best to use a thin blade 1/4-1/2" since the saws lack the guts to tension a wide blade.
Now cut a piece of wood and watch how the blade wants to track (very few track straight). Clamp the wood to the table and adjust your fence to be paralell to the cut piece. That should do it.

I'd watch want ads, craigslist and yardsales and trash for tools. I picked up 2 mitre saws (good ones too) for 5.00 each. Have 2 free table saws, 5.00 planer and my lathe was free. I'm getting to the point where I may start buying new or better high end used stuff for some better ease of use, but all my stuff works great. Just stay away from craftsman oil free compressors, I could write a book on those.

Where I live a little NW of boston, there is almost and endless supply of power tools, mowers, snowblowers and other assorted goodies in peoples trash. I've retired from picking up most of it, but still get an occasional goodie.

Thanks too for the advice on the bandsaw. I was looking at that one and now I know you need a new blade. That was helpful to at least know it will do a good job.