OK, I did enough rock-hopping and slipp'n and slide'n last season that I am ready to buy my first pair of Korkers. However, I have read LOTS of negative reviews on them, reports of losing the studs after only a couple of heavy uses, crappy straps, etc...

I will publicly admit here that towards the end of last season I put some screws through the soles of an old pair of sneakers and it worked pretty well but I did not place every screw in the "ideal" place and suffered a bit (ouch).

My question to all of you seasoned Korker-Wearers: Are Korkers worth the $90, do they in your experience fall apart quickly and has anyone ever modified them or like my cheap-o self, attempted to make their own?

Calling DZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dennis is the man to talk to when in the realm of this subject matter. I was thinking of upgrading, thoughts Dennis????

I've been thinking about the el cheapo route as well- plenty of old tennis sneakers in the closet just waiting to be experimented on...I fish slippery rocks a plenty but try to travel light so that I can cover more ground, and Korkers seems to slow me down. Then again, one good fall on the rocks will put me down...so I'd be very interested to hear about special modifications to sneakers etc...

You get used to the weight of them, especially if you fish 4-5x a week.. they feel heavy but you adapt...

90$ is a start. Buying qaulity korkers is an smart investment. I would skip homemade korkers all together. As mentioned, support and studs make for a good boot. I've been useing the Orvis 'Henryforks' and a hodgman studded sole boot, between the two their going on their 5th season. On the hodgemans(a cheaper boot)I soed some seams with dacron and replaced the soles. It just goes to show beside your reel, your boots are probaly your next most important investment so don't short change yourself.

if u go with a stocking foot wader Korkers has a cleaver shoe with removable soles that work fine for me as i do a lot of rock hopping

You get used to the weight of them, especially if you fish 4-5x a week.. they feel heavy but you adapt...

The only time i ever had any issues with the weight was when i trekked 3+miles into a spot. the walk was all sand, until the end where it became cobbles and where i wanted to fish was on boulders in the surf. I wore them in and while fishing, but removed them and strapped them to my belt for the walk back. i was very happy did. when i first removed them it felt like i was taking off some ankle weights and after 8 hrs of walking/fishing it was nice to have the relief. I felt like a new man.
I always put them on at the vehicle though before i go out. i experimented carrying them and then putting them on before i fished, but don't like putting them on once on the beach. its much easier at the truck.
i agree that once you start wearing them you won't notice that they are even on after a while.
I went the el cheapo route with ice cleats (rubber pull on straps with small metal grips on the toes) these worked fine ($7/pair) from light rocks, but i was going through several pairs a year so finally bought the korkers (hodgemans gladiator soles, actually, a little less expensive) and have been very happy with them

1 more thing..Most of us learn from our mistakes, you take a rocky road to find out its a dead end and by the time you get back on track you might as well go home. Sneakers where made for running.

If you do a lot of rock hopping, it is a very very good idea to just bite the bullet and get them. I got mine last year and it kind of opened up so many more spots for me, I really used to stay away from rocks at low tide before I had korkers. The problem with korkers is that the studs they come with tend to wear down or just fall off altogether after a bunch of trips. DZ has a great method for modifing them which involves replacing the studs with stainless machine screws. If you do a search on this site, you will find the thread where he lays out the method.
If I have a long walk to a spot, I just put them on when I get there, it's just so much easier than walking with them on, plus if any of the walk is on pavement, I feel like I'm wearing the studs (or screws) unessessarily. I also have a couple of spots that involve walking close to private residences on pavement to get to, korkers on pavement tend to make some noise, so that can take away from "stealth" mode. I wouldn't want some yahoo making a racket outside of my ocean-front home at 4am, so I try to have some respect for that.

Jim Sylvester and I wore them last year and had no problems...we bought the Korker boots with the insert felt bottoms. Remove the felt, drill holes right throught the insert. We put about 10 sets of 1 inch 10/24 machine screws and nuts (stainless) in each sole. Then, put the insert back on the boot and we drilled right through the boot down through the insert to basically screw the insert to the boot...otherwise it does pop off from time to time..

I also used the korker convertible. The upper doesn't hold up for crap where I fish. I had to have them replaced. Also, better than the screws is buying the Korker sole that is actual Korker studs. As always YMMV. Still the best wading boot/cleat I've used so far.

oh I also want to note that a buddy of mine who is too cheap to buy them fell off the rocks into the water last year and saw his life flash before his eyes...

oh I also want to note that a buddy of mine who is too cheap to buy them fell off the rocks into the water last year and saw his life flash before his eyes...

That can work against you as well. I saw a buddy of mine get a little to "comfortable" in them and almost get washed away by a wave because of the false sense of security they offer. :hee:

Keep the advice coming, it's appreciated.

Jim Sylvester and I wore them last year and had no problems...we bought the Korker boots with the insert felt bottoms. Remove the felt, drill holes right throught the insert. We put about 10 sets of 1 inch 10/24 machine screws and nuts (stainless) in each sole. Then, put the insert back on the boot and we drilled right through the boot down through the insert to basically screw the insert to the boot...otherwise it does pop off from time to time..


best set-up i've used or seen yet


the key that decksweeper and I found out ( the hard way :as: , is to lock the insert into the boot with a 1 1/4 " screw, right through the innersole and the felt as well

this setup allows the advantages of korkers with the lightweight feel of wearing just felt bottom boots

That can work against you as well. I saw a buddy of mine get a little to "comfortable" in them and almost get washed away by a wave because of the false sense of security they offer. :hee:

Keep the advice coming, it's appreciated.

that's a really good point actually, you are not superman with these things on, you still have to go slow and watch your every step. I've also found that you don't always need them, for bolders in the water without weeds or any kind of slime on them, just felt soles can be better.

Jim Sylvester and I wore them last year and had no problems...we bought the Korker boots with the insert felt bottoms. Remove the felt, drill holes right throught the insert. We put about 10 sets of 1 inch 10/24 machine screws and nuts (stainless) in each sole. Then, put the insert back on the boot and we drilled right through the boot down through the insert to basically screw the insert to the boot...otherwise it does pop off from time to time..

any pics ???

got some of the older korkers and replaced the studs with 10/24 ss screws- very sticky :kewl: .

i just wish Korkers had a way to keep the removable sole on the boot a couple of time this year I needed them and they let me down:af: good thing it was just one shoe. But all in all they work well when they work:D

i just wish Korkers had a way to keep the removable sole on the boot a couple of time this year I needed them and they let me down:af: good thing it was just one shoe. But all in all they work well when they work:D

woody,
just as decksweeper and i stated, drill a hole from the innersole of the boot out, and through the felt sole as well

then lock in place with screw all the way through

felt sole doesn't have a chance of moving any more

its bulletproof, i'm telling ya

Here ya go.
http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/showthread.php?t=18965&highlight=korker+mods

i did the SS screws trick after burning throught the korkers studs,,,, I like the screw better,,,,, Actually put a couple extra in some places that work for me,,,, The screws that pulled through just needed a small fender washer and I was back in action

I have had my korkers for 4 seasons now,,, they are missing some studs butt they still work,,, got mine from cabella's 60$,,, the nrw korkers are not like the old ones

I have had my korkers for 4 seasons now,,, they are missing some studs butt they still work,,, got mine from cabella's 60$,,, the nrw korkers are not like the old ones

Jim, I'll show ya how to fix the broken studs with stainless bolts, works pissa. I'll show ya mine next time I see ya. Go Pats!!!

i just wish Korkers had a way to keep the removable sole on the boot a couple of time this year I needed them and they let me down:af: good thing it was just one shoe. But all in all they work well when they work:D

Duct tape dude, I had the same problem a couple of times in some of the worst places. Duct tape takes care of the problem. Five tight wraps every time out and they never come off.

woody,
just as decksweeper and i stated, drill a hole from the innersole of the boot out, and through the felt sole as well

then lock in place with screw all the way through

felt sole doesn't have a chance of moving any more

its bulletproof, i'm telling ya

I've seen it decksweeper let me look @ it I'm in !! thanks:btu:

It seems like some people are talking about the ones with the laces and some are talking about the ones with the buckles.

I have the buckle ones and the only problem I've had is the loss of a few spikes. I like the idea someone mentioned of drilling out the hole and using screws though - I have a ton of SS 10/32s for the yak that will work well for this.

BTW - McMaster is a good source for the screws & washers.

best set-up i've used or seen yet


the key that decksweeper and I found out ( the hard way :as: , is to lock the insert into the boot with a 1 1/4 " screw, right through the innersole and the felt as well



Jim:

I also figured that trick out mid-season this past year with my Korkers Outfitters Boots after 2 seasons of occasional sole pop-offs and after the rear locking D-ring corroded off one of the boots. Works Great now!!

It seems like some people are talking about the ones with the laces and some are talking about the ones with the buckles.

I have the buckle ones and the only problem I've had is the loss of a few spikes. I like the idea someone mentioned of drilling out the hole and using screws though - I have a ton of SS 10/32s for the yak that will work well for this.

BTW - McMaster is a good source for the screws & washers.

I did my buckle style, 5500 I believe.

Is the screw inserted thru the inner sole at the heel area which then goes thru the felt sole ?

Is the screw secured enough so that it will not back up into the heel of your foot if you stepped on a rock just right ?

Where does the removable soles pop off from, the front, sides or back side of the boot?

Is the screw inserted thru the inner sole at the heel area which then goes thru the felt sole ?

Is the screw secured enough so that it will not back up into the heel of your foot if you stepped on a rock just right ?

Where does the removable soles pop off from, the front, sides or back side of the boot?

drill your pilot hole for the bolt towards the middle of the shoe, if you put the bolt towards the heel the insert may still "pop out on you.

lock the bolt down woth a washer and nut...its not going anywhere

you can also put a washer on the innersole side (bolt head) if you want

they pop from the toe

My question to all of you seasoned Korker-Wearers: Are Korkers worth the $90, do they in your experience fall apart quickly and has anyone ever modified them or like my cheap-o self, attempted to make their own?

K 1000 Plus- Just push in some new spikes when they wear out. $65.00 & more spikes than the regular 1000's. The threaded spikes in the 5000's dont hold up & are difficult to replace once the rust gets to them.

I leave them strapped on my waders unless im going to be walking on pavement for a while. Your Korkers & spikes will last alot longer if you rinse them really well in fresh water after.

I just would not go on the rocks without my korkers. Like someone mentioned above, it doesn't mean that you won't slip, but it definitely means that the likelihood of it happening is seriously reduced, and that, if you do go down, the studs are going to help you to get purchase during that all-important period of trying to stop the inexorable slide toward the water and get back out of the wave's reach !! (Been there, done that, and VERY glad to have the korkers).

I use the 1100's, which are the lace-up ones. These are a lot cheaper than the 5500's (buckle), are much lighter, and feel more secure with a double knot, IMHO. I have been told me that there have been times when waves/rocks etc have resulted in buckles self-releasing, which is not a good feeling at any point on the rocks....:err:

The studs appear to wear down reeeeally fast, but the replacement tool and spare studs has been a great investment - I check them before each foray on the rocks, and it takes a minute or so to replace with new ones, once you have the hang of it. Last season I went through a bag of 15 or so studs. Just knowing that all of them were working well is a good feeling at dark-thirty perched on a rock!

I know it comes down to a personal choice, but my choice is that I will not go on the rocks without them!!:cool:

I did the screw thing last year. And for a while it was ok, but as soon
as the tips of the screws get rounded they are not sharp enough to dig in and on a tilted rock you start sliding around. Not good.

Last fall I bought a pair of boots that had felt soles and for bare rock they were better than my korkers with the screws, but not as good as the original korkers.

the Korkers wetlands are on clearance right now that he Sierratradingpost.com under $50....

I always liked a workmans rubber with a dozen golf spikes in each one to be better than the korker. You use a workmans rubber one size smaller than your wader boot foot so it will fit tight. Because they have a flat wide bottom "sole"they travel well walking in the sand. They are easy to make. An outfit called walts walkers use to make them but I think they are gone now. Just my 2 cents.

I used to use corkers all the time until I got felt sole waders. They provide plenty of traction, unless you are on bubble weed. Most of the rocks I fish are just moss covered or dry, and I don't feel the corkers provide much added protection. I do keep a good set of gladiator korkers in the vehicle at all times just in case, but they seem to get less and less use as I become more comfortable with the felts. Biggest reason behind my declining corker use is that I used to trip and fall/stumble in them too often for my liking. Had many more hazardous situations with them than without. Don't take my word as gospel, though. Use your common sense and most importantly,do what works best for your situation.

ok boys heres my 2 cents.......ive been using felts first then found out about korkes, about 30yrs ago... been through about 4or5 pairs so far...... best ones are the custon fit to your boot size model k-5000 w/screw in replaceable carbine studs.... buy them new and take and remove studds and reinstall studds w a dab of good glue on the threads....most times studs will stay for life.... as for price,,, how much is a pair of ripped boots worth, or a gash on the head, in the middle or the night... there also good for ice cleats......:tm:

TIP


If you are changing out the push in type spikes. I use a large flathead screwdriver to pry them out. And instead of buying a korker spike replacement tool which is really awkward to use in your hand & extra money. I find that a little water & an interchangeable screwdriver without the bit in it is PERFECT for pushing in a new spike. And most everyone has one layer around (& most of the time without the bits :huh: :hee: )

http://z.about.com/d/homerepair/1/8/v/-/-/-/sd_bits.jpg

I started using screws a few years back, I found that I would loose a couple of screws (like studs) every time out. So I got some fender washers and I have not had a screw come out sense, I do need to replace the screws 2 to 3 times a year. I don't feel like I even have them on anymore. If I have to walk I carry them and put them on at the spot.

I need to do something with the straps this winter they are starting to tear thru from rock rubbing and climbing, I added D-rings to them and I can really get them tight I never have to retighten anymore.

I started using screws a few years back, I found that I would loose a couple of screws (like studs) every time out. So I got some fender washers and I have not had a screw come out sense, I do need to replace the screws 2 to 3 times a year. I don't feel like I even have them on anymore. If I have to walk I carry them and put them on at the spot.

I need to do something with the straps this winter they are starting to tear thru from rock rubbing and climbing, I added D-rings to them and I can really get them tight I never have to retighten anymore.\

bob,
talk to dz about modifying them with garden hoses

Duct tape dude, I had the same problem a couple of times in some of the worst places. Duct tape takes care of the problem. Five tight wraps every time out and they never come off.

AMEN!!! I've done the duct tape for years and you can't beat it. Korkers stay on and a BIG roll of duct tape at Ocean Stae Job Lot is 3 bucks. I replace the tape maybe every 3 trips. As for studs falling out. I wear em out before they fall out. A bag of 60 from Korkers is $18.00 and will last you a couple of seasons

Not sure id this link will get edited... If it does PM me for it. It's on SOL...

It's for making the Korker Mod...
http://www.stripersonline.com/Pages/Articles/korker_modification.shtml

I've seen that on SOL, isn't that the same as DZ's method though? Or very very close to it?

Yup. same I think.

I thought DZ's had the screw heads on the Bottom? Where those have the heads on top

screw heads on the bottom? :huh:

I would think screw heads on the bottom would suck more than nothing at all.

\

bob,
talk to dz about modifying them with garden hoses

I saw Dennis's last fall on BI and I am going to try something like that just a little different

I saw Dennis's last fall on BI and I am going to try something like that just a little different

You could read that two ways:think:

Dirty Boy :whackin:

Dirty Boy :whackin:

Make that three ways:eek5:

I love my 1100's. Just replace the laces with good parachute cord. Only had to replace 1 stud last year and added a few more studs last week for good measure. I've heard of problems with the 5000's.

I don't want anybody getting hurt on my advice,but have you tried just felt soles,I'm like a mountain goat on wet rocks with them.el-cheapo might just buy the replacement felt soles and glue them onto your sneakers.

Tatoobob.............where did you get the D rings??????

Tatoobob.............where did you get the D rings??????

Wal-Mart in the sewing crafts section, they were a little big, I just squeezed them together

:btu:

If you think you'll be fine in felt soles fishing the Rhody shore - your fishing is probably confined to a small area....north of Narraganset Pier - my guess. There are a lot good spots in that area that are high enough so they are not submerged long enough to grow slime....If you start fishing the rocks south of the pier without Korkers, you're asking for it. Korkers saved my life on two occasions.

Yes - I sell them, but I could care less if you bought them off me - they are one of my lowest margin items. Korkers are a necessity - on your way down the face of a slimy rock, you're gonna remember this.

I know Steve M does not use them - he's forgotten more than I know, so I'm not going to diss him. It's a huge mistake for the vast majority of people to assume they can do something just because someone else can. If you look close at his collar you'll see a faint outline of what I think is a gill plate.

I know Steve M does not use them - he's forgotten more than I know, so I'm not going to diss him. It's a huge mistake for the vast majority of people to assume they can do something just because someone else can. If you look close at his collar you'll see a faint outline of what I think is a gill plate.

LOL...
yeah I totally agree with Joe here, I have found that I have no problems at all with just felts on wet rocks WITH NO SLIME OR WEED, but if either of them are present, korkers are an absolute must. On the North shore at least, every rocky area is unfishable at low tide without korkers in my opinion.

Replace the studs with #10-24 x 3/4 long machine screws with Nylok nuts and flat washers...works for me out at Montauk. Also, to keep them from slipping off, put a 2" long s/s or galvanized screw thru the plate in the rear into the heel of your boot...I've never lost a Korker. (I'm talking about the old ones...with laces. (replace them with 3/16" parachute cord)