Here is my story. Last year I started making attempts at jigging the ditch without any success. In fact, I have given the Canal Gods enough lead that I fear the toxicity level of that water has risen signifigantly. I quickly realized that the canal is a body of water you must specifically rig for. You cannot go there with a medium rod and 20lb test and expect to jig anything in that current. This year I picked up some power pro (50lbs) and attached it to my Okuma (ok, not the best- but acceptable) Avenger 80 and Fenwick Salt Stick (Heavy , 9 ft.). This seems like a decent setup. I don't go to the canal that often, so using a backup reel seems like a good idea. Plus the Okuma reels much quicker than my go-to reel, a 704z. Anyhow, I was jigging a 4 oz bucktail the other night when BANG. Fish F#$%g On! This thing hit hard and strong. FINALLY, I had something on the end of my line I could be proud of, the moment had finally come. Here was the redemption for all of my fruitless time and lost gear! Cripes, this thing was strong. Naturally, it was swimming with the already strong current, not making things easy for me. Line was ripping off my reel, as I tightened the drag. I had to keep palming the reel, trying desparately to keep the fish from swimming into the muscle beds and jagged rocks that sit on the bottom. For 20 full minutes I fought this beast, but I couldn't turn him. I could only get a few cranks out of my reel- mostly I was just holding him in place. Then it happened... SNAP. Fish F$#@%g gone. Needless to say, this felt tragic.

My question to you canal guys is this. How do I prevent this tragedy from occuring again? I did not use a leader, I tied directly. Should I be using steel leaders? Is 50 lb power pro sufficient? Does my reel just suck? Could I have turned the fish with a better reel? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

:crying:

leader leader leader

for the canal i would go with 80 lb

fish just rubbed the powerpro on bottom structure

1. What Jim said. Swivle tied to 80 # leader for the Canal.

2. Go with your 704Z. I have caught hundreds of good fish in the Canal on a 704Z. Why go away from what works!!!

Go to an 80# leader, leave $200 worth of braid on the bottom every year ;)

Your leader MUST break before the braid. Otherwise it costs you money and leaves line balls out there for other Canal guys to lose tackle on.

40# leader with 65# PP. The difference between 50 and 65 PP is a lot. Before braid came along, 30-40# mono landed many large bass in the Canal. Guys didn't know what a "shock leader" was. They tied direct with 30 or 40 pound mono.

I'm not familiar with your rod. "Heavy" doesn't mean much in the abstract. You need a stick that can cast 6-10 oz easily to turn a fish. Otherwise, you should climb the bank to the road and walk with the fish. Standing there and letting her run is going to end up the same way most of the time--with a lost fish. You either have to break the fish, giving no quarter, or climb and walk. Change the angle--it really helps. So does getting up to the road. That also changes the angle.

I'd spool up that 704 with 30# Fireline, and run a 50# mono leader. And I'd look for a no BS rod. It would be worth the coin to invest in one dedicated custom Canal jigging stick. Have it built on either a Lami 121 3M (glass) or a Batson SU 1209. Those are the two best rods I know of when it comes to down and dirty weapons to break a fish's will. They'll run low to mid $200 range--money well spent.

One more thing---your biggest mistake, it seems, was letting that fish get up a head of steam. As I read your post, I can't help but think that your drag was set way too loose for starters. I fish about 12 pounds of drag, all the time. You have to take a wrap around your hand, almost, to pull line off my Saltiga. You'd still be surprised at how easily 35-40 pound fish pull line off, even at that setting--but they don't do it for nearly as long ;)

It is also very possible, don't ask me how I know:lossinit: , that you snagged bottom, and debris in the form of weeds was wrapping around you line and taking drag.....

I would go with what Mike P said, he is a ditch god :btu:

I'm going to suggest using a lighter # test leader than your braid. You are going to get hung up jigging, and sometimes you have to break it off. You want it to break at the leader rather than breaking somewhere along that 30$ spool of braid. I use 50# braid and a 40Lb mono leader, and I've never had the leader break while fighting a fish.

Also, I don;t know anythng about the fenwick rod you were using, but if you got the fish stopped and could not haul it back, I think you gotta look at the rod too. It takes a lot of rod to bring a large fish back against the current.

Leaders will be used next time, absolutely. Makes a lot of sense. I was thinking that by tying direct, I was getting the most strength out of the line. You guys are right about leaving braid down there and its not cheap. I remember seeing a guy who had a peculiar leader at the ditch last year. It looked like his line was wrapped in a kind of foil for maybe a foot or 2. Do you know what that was?
I dont think I snagged bottom, only because I have done that plenty, and this had more "fight" to it than when junk collects on the line- but you never know if you dont land anything :)
As far as rods, maybe I will get a better ditch rod eventually, but I dont think the salt stick is too bad of a choice. It is rated for 4 oz and is a sturdy graphite rod. Nice and lightweight for jigging, yet strong. I have a 10 ft Ugly Stick as well, but I only like that for throwing chunks. Its heavier and doesnt cast as well.
You guys like the 704z over the Okuma for this application. It's a great reel, but kinda slow to reel in. Do you think using it would have given me more torque? This would be a good reason to switch. I do have an extra spool for it too. Thanks for your replies- they are very helpful.

I'm far from a Ditch-Master but the one thing that I think could have saved your fish in your situation was like Mike said,..."climb and walk", (while keeping tension on the line of course ;))

Sometimes even with the best tackle,, you have to be quick on your feet when it's a big fish swimming with the current. I know it's easier said than done....tough spot to climb-up, other fishermen in the way, only having 1 leg etc....but you always have to be ready for that situation when fishing the ditch. If somebody hooks a 50 in the ditch, they better walk the fish no matter what they're using IMO.

I'd go with the 80 lb leader for abrasion resistance, as far as the leader being stronger then the braid and fear of losing a bunch of braid in case of a hangup the 80 lb would be more abraision resistant, easier to change a couple times a night when it gets nicked up and the weakest part of the setup is going to be the knots between the braid, swivel and mono so that will break first.

Thats why fishing is so much fun.
Really nothing much you can do. Were you saying a prayer ?

Like Ditch said, lighter leader than your running line......

A trick ( for when all else fails) :

If the fish is headed into the rocks downcurrent ( or other obstructions ;) and it looks like you're a gonner, back off on the yankin'/pullin'/haulin'/holdin' and give the fish the line he wants. Don't let the line go completely slack but just enough so the fish thinks he's free ( he can't feel you on the other end). I've experimented with some pretty hefty fish and they all finally turn themselves and head back up current and away from the rocks. When he gets back up in front of you start haulin' again. He'll be one surprised fish.

This trick takes awhile and you ( or anyone else down current) need patience but it does work, believe me.

It is also very possible, don't ask me how I know:lossinit: , that you snagged bottom, and debris in the form of weeds was wrapping around you line and taking drag.....

I would go with what Mike P said, he is a ditch god :btu:

You mean like lobster traps? :D

Heed this man's advice. Canal legend ....:musc:


A trick ( for when all else fails) :

If the fish is headed into the rocks downcurrent ( or other obstructions ;) and it looks like you're a gonner, back off on the yankin'/pullin'/haulin'/holdin' and give the fish the line he wants. Don't let the line go completely slack but just enough so the fish thinks he's free ( he can't feel you on the other end). I've experimented with some pretty hefty fish and they all finally turn themselves and head back up current and away from the rocks. When he gets back up in front of you start haulin' again. He'll be one surprised fish.

This trick takes awhile and you ( or anyone else down current) need patience but it does work, believe me.

A trick ( for when all else fails) :

If the fish is headed into the rocks downcurrent ( or other obstructions ;) and it looks like you're a gonner, back off on the yankin'/pullin'/haulin'/holdin' and give the fish the line he wants. Don't let the line go completely slack but just enough so the fish thinks he's free ( he can't feel you on the other end). I've experimented with some pretty hefty fish and they all finally turn themselves and head back up current and away from the rocks. When he gets back up in front of you start haulin' again. He'll be one surprised fish.

This trick takes awhile and you ( or anyone else down current) need patience but it does work, believe me. Shakespeare to my ears,

Very nice trick indeed.

Ya it might work if u have enough line.U have to let the line get beyond the fish so any tension the fish feels is now from behind him.
Jim has talked about this technique with me a few times.I have not had the balls to try it yet.I'm a clamp down on the spool guy an hope I have em hooked in a good spot.The way i see it if they are hooked poorley u'll never get em up tide in the current anyways..
I have a few cows in the full bore 5 plus kts.Jim has way more..I have also lost some fish that made me cry..It's all part of it u take ur lumps an get out of there.Tie ur leaders short like 18 inches there are spots u will not have the room on the backcast for much longer..
I use 30 lb Fireline an 40 lb leader..

Why I need a "trick"

I've caught a 40# and 44# bass in the canal by hauling only. It damn near killed me. Even fish 35-40#s are murder for me. The guys I fish with - Bruce, DJ, NIB,Keith,etc - they dont have as much trouble as me because they're bigger guys. I'm small - 150#s soakin' wet.

I've seen a few 50+ #ers and I did see Baranowski's 60#er. All I could think was....no way.... I haven't got a chance against a fish that big. The tail of a 50+# fish is friggin' enormous and scary.

So....... I've gotta trick em. A few years ago I started playing with fish in the 25-30# range to see what they would do if left to think they got free. Sure enough, they reacted as I described. I'm hoping when I hook a fish so big I can't haul that it will react the same way. Like I said..... when all else fails, whatya gonna do?
Plan B: let 'em swim...... pray.

I was fishing the canal regurlarly when most of the guys on this and the other sites were still bluegill fishing, guys like Mike P remember and a few others. It got to popular and I quit the rat scene. But then as now I never fish anything heavier than a 30 lb leader, now I use 50 braid and go no heavier. I used then a conventional and still do. This spinning thing with tree trunk rods and gorrila braid at 80 lbs plus and 80 pound leaders is not sport, it's just catching. Spinning is easy to master and helps the unmastered hand at night but real canal men use conventionals day and night. There is no equality between you and the fish, which should be a match of wit and wisdom, one on one not the one sided stand and deliver with no drag invloved or no chance that the fish might outsmart you. Get him over that piece of rope and she's done for no matter how big. The two biggest bass I ever landed weighed an even 45 lbs apiece in the canal. One on 16 lb test Ande Tournament green (which is what we all used ch#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g eels at the Mud Flats, 245 and 80) at the Mud Flats under a screaming new moon west tide and the other on a 3-1/2 oz Yellow Polaris (the original by Gibbs) on 30 big game on my ten foot conventional and a running east tide at 195.

I never did and still don't, when on occasion the urge hits me to jig there, use a jig heavier than 3-1/2 oz. I have caught many a 30 pounder on that rig and did many a dance along the rocks from pole to pole fighting bass and some bested me and sometimes I won but the thing is it was and still is carried on as fair fight. You want the best out of a running tide and a large bass than do it fairly and do it like it's supposed to be done with all the thrills, spills and drama and when you win you feel good that you were tough enough and smart enough to overcome the rockweed, kelp, lobstertraps, boulders and a 1000 other items that can snap you off in a second and when you loose tip your hat and say thanks and tell the fish to look out next time. We learned to run up the banks over the service road and up further still when hooked to a big fish to keep it off of the bottom.
There is none of that now, it's all one way.

If you want to stand in one place, chuck a 5oz jig with braid that is labeled as 80 and actually breaks at somewhere near 130-140lbs and know the outcome once hooked then do so but you might get the same thrill from freshwater tournament largemouth fishing where the fish is hooked and landed in less than ten seconds average but then again a lot of people think that is really fishing too.:(

What U didn't use linen line u sissy..
No one uses 80 it don't cast worth a crap..
There's still a skill involved.Mike P.used the same old gear.He
don't use it now.I used to yank them 6 lb LMB out of the buckbrush with 25 lb test mono..
very exciting..:D
Perhaps I should jig the ditch with roy's sponge bob pole..

Why I need a "trick"

I've caught a 40# and 44# bass in the canal by hauling only. It damn near killed me. Even fish 35-40#s are murder for me. The guys I fish with - Bruce, DJ, NIB,Keith,etc - they dont have as much trouble as me because they're bigger guys. I'm small - 150#s soakin' wet.

I've seen a few 50+ #ers and I did see Baranowski's 60#er. All I could think was....no way.... I haven't got a chance against a fish that big. The tail of a 50+# fish is friggin' enormous and scary.

So....... I've gotta trick em. A few years ago I started playing with fish in the 25-30# range to see what they would do if left to think they got free. Sure enough, they reacted as I described. I'm hoping when I hook a fish so big I can't haul that it will react the same way. Like I said..... when all else fails, whatya gonna do?
Plan B: let 'em swim...... pray.


I seen Jim pump em in don't let the little frame fool ya..
He's one of the best..
No question.

I like Jim's thoughts .. I think the larger fish nose themselves against the boulders so you don't have a 50# fish, you have a 2 ton boulder. The "hooked on the bottom feeling" ..but you know your not .. No Way your lifting that fish with the rock don't matter how big you are .. broke off a few dream fish trying . I like your approach Jim .. Your smarter than the fish .. not quite there yet . 65# braid 40# leader here.. 1209

also Ditch Jigger different angle thing, can change angle of the hook in the rocks, springing the fish .

I have limited experience at the Canal, but I have upgraded my gear this year to a 10' Tica rod (2-8oz), a couple of used 704 reels (30lb fireline on one and 80lb Whiplash on the other). I did pick up a spool on Ande 50lb to use as leader material. Used 40lb last year.

Last year I used a older fiberglass rod (mid 60's Lamiglas) with a 6501 conventional and a Daiwa Sealine with a 6500SS both with 20-25lb mono, and a 710z with 20lb fireline. The Daiwa was rated 1-5 oz, but really 3oz is the max that you want to use with that rod. It could not handle the larger jigs that were needed when the current was ripping.

I believe your Salt Stick is limiting your ability to use the heavier jigs. It is rated to 4oz, but 3oz is probably more the actual limit of the rod as manufacturers seem to overrate their gears capabilities.

The Avenger reel is probably fine, but the 704 is a rugged reel. Might want to see if you can score a used spool and get some 50 or 65lb braid on it. Use a 40 - 50lb leader and use a quality snap on the end.

Definitely listen to what the more experienced guys say. I am a rookie at this, but did feel like I was not able to effectively fish during periods when the current was really running last year, and focused more on the near-shore areas, so that is why I got a rod that could handle the task this year.

Take ditch's advise, Powers advice these are two guys know their chit and KNOW via first hand experience what they are talking about.


I run a lighter leader and I tie a semi dry knot so if I hang up I break at the knot.

Good luck, I'm horrible in the canal.. I couldnt catch a fish there with an eel hanging outta my waders.. :(

It seems to me that even in the past, plenty of guys didn't believe in a fair fight ;) That was especially true in the days of $3.25/lb with no closed season You had $100 worth of fish on the end of the line, when $100 was worth $100, you didn't want to level the playing field:humpty:

Remember when many of the then-gods used rigs like Harnell or "5M" meatsticks and Squidders loaded with 45 or 50# Dacron? That was as thick, if not thicker, than today's 80# superbraid.

And for every guy like Flap or Ski who ran 16# tournament Ande on the flats, there were guys running 30# mono on Mitchell 388s. Some guys even threw eels on Squidders and Abu 7000s with heavy mono--up to 40 or 50# test. I know--I tangled with quite a few over the years :D

I kind of split the difference with 20# pink Ande.

There are places where you just can't fight fair--like around the bridges. You need to stop and turn a fish. They get around those pilings, they're gone. Mono or braid--doesn't matter. Barnacles cut any line.

To tell you the truth, I'm still a conventional guy at heart. I like using my Newells for jigging. I use the "new gear" in a few places for specific reasons---casting distance, drag performance (yes, it's true--not a single conventional in my collection has the drag and cranking power of my Saltiga 6000-Z spinning reel), and the fact that the All Star 1209 fishes much better as a spinning rod. I use it in places where I have to stop a fish in its tracks.

As I've gotten older, I tend to use spinning gear more and more for throwing plugs. For the plain and simple fact that it's easier. 30-50# braid helps me match most conventionals for distance. Accuracy suffers a little bit, but with practice you can come close. If you like a fair fight, spinning gear and 30# Stealth is a more sporting outfit than a Newell 229 and 25# mono. Trust me--the mono's stronger, and more forgiving because 100 yards of mono will stretch anywhere from 15-25 yards before it breaks ;)

5 string- even after you get your gear in order, expect to get beat sometimes. I have posted this so don't mean to repeat myself...but I got beat at a spot on the canal by getting cut off after turning the fish. I also lost an other fish on the same rig in a different state but under similar conditions. So I upgraded to an all-star 1209, abu 7000cl with 80lb whiplash w/ 50lb mono leader. Again last fall same spot in the canal, same week, same tide another real good fish hooked. Had it on for what felt like forever, finally got it turned and thought I had it beat. Felt the rubbing and bang its off. I almost lost my mind. I have talked to a bunch of people and a couple guys suggested what J Powers said about giving slack. If I get the opportunity again and have the guts to do it I might try it. Point is I guess no matter how prepared you are they are gonna beat you sometimes under canal conditions. Best you can do is be as prepared as possible.

Thanks for all the advice, you guys are great. JPowers, If I'm in that same situation again, where I cant get fish to turn, I'll give that a shot. It certainly sounds worth a shot. I did start to climb up to the service road, but I was too late with that- the fish had gotten the jump on me and probably buried itself in the boulders. I picked up some heavy mono leader material (50 and 80lb to experiment), I agree that the weak point is probably going to be the knot, especially with the way my knots come out in heavy mono- lol. I picked up some more jigs too. Damn Canal is expensive. Anyone know where to get a good deal on bucktails and jig heads? I'm sticking with the fenwick for this season, it casts 4 oz really well. if I have a little success, maybe I will shop for a "winter deal" on something more appropriate. I'm still a little undecided about which reel I want to use. I think I am saving more jigs with the faster Okuma, but the 704 IS a more durable reel. I'm not sure why I like going there and jigging, but I keep going back. My fishing buddies wont even go there anymore- they have lost gear too and will generally say "f$#@ that place" - haha. Also, like some of you mentioned, sometimes you are just not going to win the battle. I'm OK with that and I do want it to be "sporting", its just that I havent had much luck down there...yet. I'll let you know if my luck (preparedness?) gets better and I land something worth talking about. Thanks again.

There was more information imparted upon us in these reply posts as a result of the question asked than most all other canal questions combined this year so far. Great read.

5 String, read it over.
http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/showthread.php?t=14919

one concern about giving a good fish slack, hope the jig or hook doesn't fall out of the fishes mouth:tm:

"tight lines":conf:

Like Mr. Powers says, it is more of a "controlled slack with some tension". Very similar effect to back-reeling LMB. Amazing how they stop "kicking and screaming" if you don't bully the fish...Many a LMB has been "led" around dock pilings on light line and brought to hand using the technique.

Listen to the Ditch Wizards here, fellows. A lifetimes worth of info has been given up. Thanks guys.