Here's how I do it, wish I could give credit as to who showed it to me,but he was a guy in a B&T shop that gave me instructions I never got the gents name....

First the wire must be anealed, hard wire will crack and break and is not flexable enough to withstand being closed then opended...

First, insert your lip and wire ( be sure to capture your swivel) press the wire against the lip to be sure it is properly seated.

Then measure 3/8" from the plug body along the wire, marke with a sharpie....

Now make a small loop, I use a #0 phillips in the vise and form the loop around it, by doing this, you relie on the wires memory to help form the loop ( it took me a lot of misery to gure that one out) trim the tag end so it leaves approx 1" of extra wire just like the nose loop.


Continued on the next frame:

Now you want to close the loop, being certain that the 3/8 mark is on center of the loop, close it jist enough to allow a #1/0 swivel to go through, it takes practice to learn just how much to close the loop...

Next, I make a buching that will be go into the body of the plug, this will keep the wire from expanding ito the wood and becoming loose with time...


I use a .341 tail gromet and drill it out with a 3/16 drill bit, by clamping the edge of the washer in a vise, I've trie holding with a vise grips but the vise is the best,. safest way... I probaly could go and buy some 3/16 washers, but that would be too easy!

Continued in the next frame:

At this time, I have epoxied my bushing into the spotfaced recess in my plug, use 60 minute water proof epoxy, 5 miniute is no good for constant submersion...

Now once again assemble your plug.( be sure you capture the swivel...it realy SUCKS if you miss it with this type of connection)

I have a block of wood that I use for opening the wire, on one edge there are no holes drilled, on one clean cut side with a nice clean edge I have a 1/4" hole drilled approx 1/8" from the edge...

place your plug/wire on the undrilled side, using an awl, push it into the wire about 1/2 way between the plug body and the end of the wire to spread the wire, by doint this prior to hitting with a hammer, you avoid nicking and possibly daamging the wire, give it a few taps with a hammer to start the process.. always wear safty glasses or a shiled when striking a tool like a awl, drift or chisel...

Now turn the block to the drilled side, insret the awl into the wire and tap it until the loop is spread and the lip is tight... if the loop remains a littl pointy at the tip, place the wire/plug on the awl and clamp it in the vise, a few gentle taps on the end of the wire wil round it out nicely.. reform the wire with the awl and block of wood one last tine to be sure the joint is tight..

continued in the next frame..

now you should have a nice neat loop, that is tight and durable, I then use a nose gromet in the tail section and install a secon piece of wire and finish my tail wrap as I normaly would..

This practice takes time and takes a little getting used too, but the end result IMHO is worth the trouble...

Good luck
Roc

Nice tutorial.I have done it in a similar fashion.Just to try it that way..I think Capesams was the one to walk us thru it a few yrs ago.Other times I just do a small tail rap on the but end of the front section.I think both methods work fine.

Counterbore the tail section slightly. Use another nose gromet and get the joint as small as possible.

I do mine the same way.
Careful when you open the loop, it can torque the lip out of alignment if you're not careful and then Charleston will notice it right away and you will feel like an idiot for not spotting it before you epoxy it in that way.:as:

PatrickD

I do mine the same way.
Careful when you open the loop, it can torque the lip out of alignment if you're not careful and then Charleston will notice it right away and you will feel like an idiot for not spotting it before you epoxy it in that way.:as:

PatrickD

:biglaugh::rotf2:

Be careful making the joint too close if you plan to cast the plug. Jointed swimmers cast much better if the joint can fold to 90 degrees during the cast. The plug is much more stable in the air and seems to sail a bit rather than tumble although hook fouling is the price you pay.

Thanks Joe

Good stuff Rock!! I haven't been doing the loop before squeezing the wire in the vice. Will try that on the next ones that I do.

I also like to counter sink the rear section as Charleston suggested.

It is worth trying it this way and using a tight tail wrap on the front section. These can give you a slightly different action. A tighter join may not cast as well, but it might give the action you are after. Seems that on some plugs the tail wrap method works best, others the double over.

Fastner supply also has a GS65 eyelet that is the prefect size for the grommet on the back of the front section. The doubled over wire will fit thru it, just bearly.

Jigman

I just did a few like that today, thanks. Easy and neat!

Well done Joe. I have been doing it similarly. Thanks fot the tooooot.:buds: