ok well i've got my first bodies all sealed up and ready to go. i used a kilz primer from a quart. brushed it on with foam brushes:conf:.....didn't like the way it came out way too thick in my opinion. they definitely did not look like the ones Mike shot up in his shop. so i sanded it and started over.... then i used a rattle can of Kilz primer, that was very thick as well, i tried to smooth it out with a foam brush, yuk...so i sanded and started over. a few questions

does sanding effect the integrity of the sealer?
and does the plug need to be primed 100%?
and should i quit:crying:,
if i can't get the primer right i can imagine when it comes time to actually painting:conf:

anybody painting in the near future that wouldn't mind someone standing beside them, jotting down some pointers? i'll help with the clean-up:pats:

Spray them and then let dry. Lightly sand them and clean the dust off them and paint. Its not rocket science its a plug. Its ok if your first couple are not perfect. Trial and error is one the of things is what
makes you grow as a builder.
You may find out this primer is not for you.

I believe, Kiltz is oil based... and yes it is thick...

Personaly, I use Zinzer, shelac based, ,it is thin and if your not carefull it will run....

Any good primer will do, it's all about your sealing/priming/painting system and what works best for you...

a light sanding may be desireable with some primers, what your trying to a chieve is a bond between the sealer/primer and paint.... try differeant things and go with what works best for you.

your finish will only be as strong as the weakest link.

try Krylon white primer in a spray can. It seems to work well.

yes, cover the whole plug with primer before paint

kilz is to kill the knots showing thru the paint on number 2 pine boards or to cover other wall stains or old colors...


not to seal clean wood... so it has to be thick to do that....

your using a sealer is to give a bonding agent to the plug and to prevent the plug as raw wood from s#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g up to much of your colored paint your trying to put on the plug.... as well as sealing it from saltwater damage...

kilz is to kill the knots showing thru the paint on number 2 pine boards or to cover other wall stains or old colors...


not to seal clean wood... so it has to be thick to do that....

your using a sealer is to give a bonding agent to the plug and to prevent the plug as raw wood from s#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g up to much of your colored paint your trying to put on the plug.... as well as sealing it from saltwater damage...

Raven,

He's not sealing it with kilz. The lures already been sealed. His issue is specifically with the primer. He isnt trying to use primer to seal the wood.

Good2hook,

If you're using the quart stuff to prime you may be better off dipping your lure in it for an even finish. I know some this method and I'm pretty sure they thin down the primer with some solvent it escapes me at this time maybe just turpentine. Basically I think they use the quart stuff thin it down, and just dip the lures in it for a quick prime. Hope that helps.

I'll second the Painters Touch Primer..I use the White and don't have any problems. Spray it on, Quick sand when it dries and then spray one more time....get nice and smooth.

. i used a kilz primer from a quart. brushed it on with foam brushes:conf:.....didn't like the way it came out way too thick in my opinion. t


i thought he was saying he was priming it with kilz?

Kilz is a nothing product, take it from a guy who sold paint for 7 years. It's crap. It was made to fill a niche, something cheap because people (especially low-grade contractors) don't like to spend money on their undercoats. What happened, well everyone used it and now people will say they are going to "kilz" their house instead of "prime" their house. Kilz became synonymous with primer. Kilz is an interior only product and therefore doesn't really belong on your plugs. That said, I know a few who use it with decent success. I will agree that the Krylon spray can in your best bet for ease of use and durability. But to say primer doesn;t matter is untrue. Primer is super important, if your primer doesn;t stick or if your paint is not compatible with your primer, you might as well not even paint, because the once that link is messed up your whole paint job is doomed--it's only as strong as it's weakest link.

-Dave

dave what primer do you recommend then?:pats:

I use rattle can primer.
I am starting to use all Krylon
I used to use whatever was cheap but the primer did'nt cover well and neither did the finish.
Don't use krylon over other stuff or you might have issues.

I use Rust-Oleum Painters Touch spray.

I use Krylon. Primer and paint spray cans.
Al,

CPES .. says no need for primer .. on light colors,, white and yellow I do notice pencil lines showing thru rattle can paint ...

That painters touch stuff is a good bet and it's easy. CPES is a great product but I think it may cause cancer or something if overused. :hf1: Stinky as hell... worse than wood hardener.

PNG uses it and he is stinky as hell too

PNG uses it and he is stinky as hell too

I am sad to announce that I have been de-throned so to speak:doh:

I dont think cpes is as bad as m-woodhardner but they are both bad. I have recently tried a diff. urethane I found from a home made telescope site of all places, I put the link up in another thread about sealer comparisons. so far so good. I like it alot more than valoil which I never really liked at all, but hey Im not brand loyal I dont like my "Jet" lathe either



GO:patshelmet:

CPES is a great product but I think it may cause cancer or something if overused. :hf1: Stinky as hell... worse than wood hardener.

Dave ... that spray booth I had at plugfest a couple of years ago is the best money I ever spent ... I don't stink any more ,, it all goes outside ,,with my heat .. rattle cans too .

i re-sanded and started over. i used the primer Mike recommended and they came out 100 times better.:thanks: i'll be painting them soon. i need to get an adapter from my iwata air-hose to the compressor. any suggestions?


eddie, i was looking into spray booths. i saw one on bear-air for decent money. where did you get yours?

Dave ... that spray booth I had at plugfest a couple of years ago is the best money I ever spent ... I don't stink any more ,, it all goes outside ,,with my heat .. rattle cans too .

Gotcha, with my heat! :jester: too funny!!

You gotta be careful with these penetrating epoxies though, they penetrate your skin too and can f--- up your liver after repeated exposures. I'm sure you're wearing gloves Ed, just a heads up to the other CPES users and potential CPES converts.

thanks strike king:).....


another dumb question, what's CPES?

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend which aids in the restoration of rotted or deteriorated wood. The Epoxy Resin system chemically adheres to the wood fibers and significantly strengthens them while allowing for normal expansion and contraction.
CPES is effective because of the special blend of solvents that allow it to migrate into the wood fibers and into the cellulose of the wood. Impregnation of the wood with the Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer changes the cellulose of the wood (which the bacteria and fungi find easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose which resists the fungi, while reinforcing the wood, and accomplishing restoration.

CPES is a two-part product. Mixes 1:1 equal parts of A and B by volume. Apply with brush, roller or immersion. The Cold Weather version of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer was developed because sometimes repairs such as restoration of deteriorated wood, repair of osmosis-damaged fiberglass boats, and/or coatings must be done in the winter. CPES Cold Weather Formula was designed to be used in the temperature range of 28-65 F. Also called MultiWoodPrime, this epoxy sealer makes an excellent paint and varnish primer as it chemically bonds the finish to the wood

Zinsser B-I-N Red Can Primer. Spray can. Use as a primer, this is not substitute for sealing.

This is one of many standard issue products to have in your arsenal of plug building.

http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10


They sell it at Homeys and Lowes etc.

Zinsser B-I-N Red Can Primer. Spray can. Use as a primer, this is not substitute for sealing.

This is one of many standard issue products to have in your arsenal of plug building.

http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10


They sell it at Homeys and Lowes etc.

This stuff works well except its loves to run. Very very light coat.:raiders:

I just found out the hard way about zinser not taking the place of sealer. Test swam a few metal lip swimmers in hartford on Sat. They used to swim great but with no sealer the primer was already cracking by the time I got home. Hope they are salvageable. But the zinser is very easy to use. I dipped my plugs in it and it really is thin and coats fairly decent.( Just doesn't seal)

Could we just use rusto flat white spray paint as a primer?..I saw an earlier post of capesams, I think and he said that he did this, one coat sand, and then 2 more for a really smooth finish.

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend which aids in the restoration of rotted or deteriorated wood. The Epoxy Resin system chemically adheres to the wood fibers and significantly strengthens them while allowing for normal expansion and contraction.
CPES is effective because of the special blend of solvents that allow it to migrate into the wood fibers and into the cellulose of the wood. Impregnation of the wood with the Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer changes the cellulose of the wood (which the bacteria and fungi find easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose which resists the fungi, while reinforcing the wood, and accomplishing restoration.

CPES is a two-part product. Mixes 1:1 equal parts of A and B by volume. Apply with brush, roller or immersion. The Cold Weather version of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer was developed because sometimes repairs such as restoration of deteriorated wood, repair of osmosis-damaged fiberglass boats, and/or coatings must be done in the winter. CPES Cold Weather Formula was designed to be used in the temperature range of 28-65 F. Also called MultiWoodPrime, this epoxy sealer makes an excellent paint and varnish primer as it chemically bonds the finish to the wooddad where can ya get this stuff?

I like the Zinsser Gold label the best :raiders:

I use Kilz straight from the spray can only I change the nozzle over from another can like Rustoluem because on the Kilz nozzle the hole is too big and it has a tendency to shoot too much paint causing a thick buildup and sometimes it sags or runs, since I changed nozzles I've never had a problem because I can apply as much as I want now without worrying about overshooting the plug with paint.

dad where can ya get this stuff?

http://www.star-distributing.com/smith/products.html

Its nasty George ... and $$$ ,,, you have to think of that little guy you got running around,, no chance of exposing him to this .. :skulz:

Krylon primer will lift and wrinkle Helmsman Urethane if it hasn't dried completely. Over night isn't enough. Back to B.I.N red lable I go...

Has anybody tried changing the spray tip on the red bin can, like teaser does on the kilz can. That stuff drips just looking at it.