To anyone....

What do all of you do with the oil in the injection reservoir for the winter??? anything or do you just leave it alone. I had the engine winterized but didn't mention anything about the oil tank. Any comment would help.
Thanks

You would need to fill it to lessen chance of moisture build-up - just like your fuel.

I'm not certain if there is a stabilizer for that like there is with gas though... Good question...

Like John says, at least fill it if nothing else.
I didn't fill mine this year though.
But I have never heard of a problem with oil res.

Fuel stabalizer is critical. Make sure its in before you run and fog the engine so that it gets into the bowls/fuel rails etc....

Consider winterizing yourself. Its easy enough. Its good
to know how to do it, and where all those grease fittings are
just in case. Gives you a chance to throughly inspect the power each year too.

Thanks for the info....I was just wondering what the rest of you do. Didn't want to overlook anything.

I think fuel stabilizer is way over-rated. I usually leave the fuel level where it's at after the last time out. The thought of burning 100's of gallons of bad gas far outweighs the small amount of moisture that might get into the tanks. Put your money into a new seperator if you are really concerned about moisture in the tanks.

TRO:

Have you ever heard of adding some dry gas additive in the spring?

A boater here at work says he does in case he got some moisture over the winter.

As far as i know stabalizer does not eliminate moisture. it only preserves the gas so that it is fresh for the next season.

I always change the separator b4 storage.

I know some people fill their tanks to eliminate the moisture problem, then dump a bunch of stabilizer to try and preserve the gas. From what I've read today's gas has about a 1 month life before it starts to break down. I'd rather have a low tank level of old gas in the spring so when I fill up it will be dilluted. My old boat had a tendency to stall/hesitate at idle in the early spring which I always thought was due to the cold weather/water. But I never had those problems in December. I think it was probably a combination of bad gas, stabilizer, and fogging oil residue. I read an article about this a few weeks ago. I'll try to find it.

D. H. Pascoe & Co., Inc. Marine Surveyors, Destin, Florida


http://www.yachtsurvey.com/winter_lay_up.htm

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Maintenance and Trouble Shooting
Winter Lay Up
by David Pascoe

...................edited by TRO


Fuel Tanks

There is plenty of controversy about whether gas fuel tanks should be empty or full at layup and you can find reasonable arguments for either condition. However, the argument for leaving them full overlooks the fact that modern gasolines go bad much too fast and six months is FAR too long. Old gas will definitely harm fuel injected MPI systems. Moreover, diesel oil is subject to bacterial blooms and oxidation as well.


Condensation developing in the tank is a much over-rated problem and here is the reason why: An empty tank contains a limited number of cubic feet of air, and therefore water vapor that could possibly condense. Air does not flow in and out through those tiny vents, plus you can always tape the vents over if that bothers you. The amount of water vapor in the tank comes to several ounces. However, if you have good Racor, Dahl or similar filters (which you should) these will easily be able to handle that amount of water. Smaller canister filters will be strained to get that much water out, but the large types like Fram cartridge filters can handle it.


What about fuel stabilizers, biocides etc.? While I'm not a petroleum chemist, I do know that these potions have a less than spectacular record of success. Personally, I'm not a believer in miracles sold in a can.


Therefore for both gas and diesel boats, it is best to arrange your fuel situation that the tanks be as empty as possible before you take the boat to the yard. Old fuel is a greater problem than a little water in the tanks.


Should tanks be completely drained for the winter? No, that isn't necessary. Besides, if you do, you'll have to refill them from 5 gallon cans in the spring which is messy, hard work and dangerous with gasoline. Leave just enough to get the engines started in spring and get to a fuel dock.


The old fuel left in the fuel lines is one of the reasons we have so much trouble getting engines started in the spring. In the spring you can bring a gallon of fresh fuel and prime the filters with it for easier starting.


Engines


Regardless of type, it's best to flush the systems with fresh water. Do this immediately before haul out. Close off the engine sea cocks and place a hose in the top of the strainer and run the engine at idle speed for 5 minutes. The objective here is to clear the saltwater side of the system. If you're doing it yourself, you do the engine fog-out at the same time.


Engine oil and filters must be changed before layup because of the acids that develop in the oil that attacks bearings, plus that's one thing less to do in the spring.


The engine air intakes should be taped closed with duct tape, as well as the exhaust pipes to prevent air flow through the engines.


Check the mufflers to see if they have drain plugs. Many don't and if not you should ask the travel lift operator to raise the bow of the boat to get the residual water out of the mufflers.

Good article.

I have always done what the shop says and filled the tank before storage. I never had a problem with poor running in my old carb. 150 or my new 175 fuel injected. But there is more to consider and I have heard both sides of the arguement before.

I thought the issue with water in the tank was corrosion, but I guess not. i messed up this year and forgot to top off the tank.
I'm not sure how much was left and now there is too much stabalizer in there.

I will see what happens next spring. I will fill it before it goes in.