Gus
11-13-2002, 11:15 AM
Here are my $.02.
Fuel stabilizer should always be added to stabilize the fuel and prevent the formation of varnish and gum in the entire fuel system and most importantly the carburetor.
If you ask any carburetor technician they will tell you that stabilizer is important if you want to avoid a carburetor rebuild.
And, if you want to get technical, most carburetors guys would suggest that you empty the carburetor bowls completely for storage.(This is a step that I have only done once, some would consider it overkill!)
As Van mentioned add the conditioner and run the engine to allow it to get thru the entire fuel system.
Changing the oil before storage is also important. The engine should be thoroughly warmed up to allow for a complete draining of the old oil.
Fog the engine. When spraying directly into cylinders...check plugs...and clean and regap as nec.
Drain cooling system or use biodegradeable antifreeze...make sure engine is warm and thermastat open!
Change vertical drive lube before storage...not in spring, just in case there is any water in there.
Lubricate gimbal bearing and universal joints. I lubricate the gimbal housing yearly....the stern drive every other year as this requires the removal of the stern drive....if you are going to do this do not to forget to buy a new gasket first!!!! It is not difficult to do....only six bolts....but it is something I think can be done every other year...
I have always winterized my boats with full tanks of gas. In my opinion the fuel stabilizers do work, they also make stabilizers for oil (although I have only used it once...overkill).
While you are winterizing....you should check all your belts and hoses....it is much easier to replace them while the boat is not rocking on the sea and while you already have your tools out!
I spray the engine block down with an anti corosion substance c566(I think it is called).
I remove the battery and clean the terminals when I reinstall in spring.
Also, if your engine is ever running rough, check the timing, ignition wires, rotar and distributor cap. I replaced the wires, rotar and cap last year and what a difference it made for low idle.
I hope to go fishing one more time to fill my freezer with cod....does anyone want to join me???
Gus
Fuel stabilizer should always be added to stabilize the fuel and prevent the formation of varnish and gum in the entire fuel system and most importantly the carburetor.
If you ask any carburetor technician they will tell you that stabilizer is important if you want to avoid a carburetor rebuild.
And, if you want to get technical, most carburetors guys would suggest that you empty the carburetor bowls completely for storage.(This is a step that I have only done once, some would consider it overkill!)
As Van mentioned add the conditioner and run the engine to allow it to get thru the entire fuel system.
Changing the oil before storage is also important. The engine should be thoroughly warmed up to allow for a complete draining of the old oil.
Fog the engine. When spraying directly into cylinders...check plugs...and clean and regap as nec.
Drain cooling system or use biodegradeable antifreeze...make sure engine is warm and thermastat open!
Change vertical drive lube before storage...not in spring, just in case there is any water in there.
Lubricate gimbal bearing and universal joints. I lubricate the gimbal housing yearly....the stern drive every other year as this requires the removal of the stern drive....if you are going to do this do not to forget to buy a new gasket first!!!! It is not difficult to do....only six bolts....but it is something I think can be done every other year...
I have always winterized my boats with full tanks of gas. In my opinion the fuel stabilizers do work, they also make stabilizers for oil (although I have only used it once...overkill).
While you are winterizing....you should check all your belts and hoses....it is much easier to replace them while the boat is not rocking on the sea and while you already have your tools out!
I spray the engine block down with an anti corosion substance c566(I think it is called).
I remove the battery and clean the terminals when I reinstall in spring.
Also, if your engine is ever running rough, check the timing, ignition wires, rotar and distributor cap. I replaced the wires, rotar and cap last year and what a difference it made for low idle.
I hope to go fishing one more time to fill my freezer with cod....does anyone want to join me???
Gus