i broke my arra 132 1 this morning on a 3 oz. jig at the top of the rating.this sucks!!!!

How low behind you was the jig when the rod broke? I ask because I don't think people realize how these rods break while casting. Some break because of a manufacturing flaw, some because of prior minor trauma nicking graphite fibers, but I believe most break because of a casting fault. Any rod will break if you pull the tip hard enough in a line back towards the butt. What most of us don't think about is the position of the lure on our backcast at the moment we start up and around. If the lure has dropped too close to the rod shaft, it is not hard to over stress the upper 18" of the blank. On moderate action rods (like the GSBs) the softer action of the midsection provides some cushion. On faster action rods, like the Arras, the blank is designed to stiffen quickly in the mid section so more leverage can be delivered during the cast. As a result, a sudden violent acceleration of a lure near its upper range that is hanging too far inside the arc of the tip can pop the rod. It is fair to argue that this is a design fault and they should have made the rod more forgiving, but I think the rods were built as casting tools with the input of guys who cast better than the rest of us. When we get tired and sloppy and stop paying attention, shiit happens. Sorry about your rod, I'd expect Lami to stand by it, good luck.

So, if I am getting what you are saying, I should try and kept the rod in a more horizontal position when I start to load it rather than vertical and snap loading, which would have the same effect as lifting a fish with the rod tip pointed skyward???? Am I getting it right or am I just confused. I'm asking because I have an Arra 1084 that I like and I'll pay a little attention if it prevents a blow-up. Thanks.

So, if I am getting what you are saying, I should try and kept the rod in a more horizontal position when I start to load it rather than vertical and snap loading, which would have the same effect as lifting a fish with the rod tip pointed skyward???? Am I getting it right or am I just confused. I'm asking because I have an Arra 1084 that I like and I'll pay a little attention if it prevents a blow-up. Thanks.

Probably. I think there is also a rod length and timing issue. With shorter rods and fast backcasts, if you hesitate at the end of your backcast the lure will drop or swing towards the rod shaft and start up and over from a sharper angle. With longer rods, I've come to believe the best option is to slowly position the rod behind you with the plug hanging at 90 degrees, then start your cast with an upward lift and twist to start loading the rod before coming forward. Whatever your style, start smooth and apply power in mid cast rather than trying to accelerate too quickly. Speed applied before the rod is loaded and "locked up" is counterproductive and risky. Be clear that I am no authority on this and don't even consider myself much of a caster. Just that years of flyfishing trained me to think about what the blank and weight position is doing when it is behind me during a cast. Hopefully others will chime in with their thoughts and we can all learn something.

sorry for your loss

Thanks Numbskull. That was probably the most informative post about the tools we use that I have read yet. Being a fairly new surf fisherman I had not really thought that much about how I was casting. I am far from perfect at it and certainly need some improvement so this is a good start. Thanks again.

Numbskull is right on with his info, but I would like to know if the rod is spin or conventional and were you using braid. Loading that rod conventional and with braid puts additional strain on the tip or the upper 3rd of the rod, Especially if you force a cast and are not smooth, snapping the rod. Braid has no give and the rod takes all the strain.
To overcome the problem a long shock leader of momo will help. With conventional reels it is possible to bring the shock leader right back into the reel. It also helps when landing fish.
Lami will probably stand by the rod. If you had it wrapped custom they supply the blank, you supply the labor.
As a post script ..... if you put a new tip on the break, you will not be happy with the change in that rod. I have "been there done that" and it really screws up a premium rod.

blah blah blah, they suck. Period, end of story.

blah blah blah, they suck. Period, end of story.

Well said for what it is worth I agree.
Much better rods or blanks for less money

SORRY JUST GOT A NEW COMPUTER,JUST FINISHED HOOKING IT UP.IT IS A SPINNING ROD MADE IT MYSELF.2 YEARS OLD.FISH IT HARD BUT DONT ABUSE IT.RATED FOR 1-3OZ. USING A 3OZ SPRO JIG NO TRAILER JUST THE JIG. WASNT LOADIND THE ROD COMPLETLY.(FISHING PIPS RIP MAINLAND SIDE SO YOU KNOW THE RIP HUGS THIS SIDE TIGHT TO SHORE SO IWAS ALMOST LOBBING THE CAST.) IT WAS A CLEAN BREAK NO SPLINTERING OR ANYTHING. IT WAS A QUATER OF THE WAY DOWN. I HAD THE NEW CONCEPT GUIDES WHICH ARE LIGHTER THAN THE REG. HARDLOYS. IT WAS A FREAK THING. CALLED CMS SINCE I MADE IT MYSELF WARRANTY DIFFERENT.THEY SAID BRING IT IN AND THEY WILL TALK TO THE DISTRIBUTER FOR ME.I AM PRAYING THEY REPLACE IT.GONNA TRY A RAINSHADOW OR SUPER SURF NEXT.GUYS PRAY FOR ME.

RON THANKS FOR THE INPUT I DID LOVE THE BLANK ESPECIALLY WITH BRAID ,EELING COULD FEEL THEM BREATH.

dropped off blank today at cms. they said they wiil talk to the distributer tomorrow for me and should have an answer by monday.picked up a rainshadow blank while i was there.started buildind it tonite will be fishing it this weekend. the guys at cms were great. also picked up a couple afterhours there.