My trailer has about 100 miles on it, it is 4 years old and the wheel stuck to the brake. I would like to replace the entire thing with a non-rust component. DO they make anything like that?

Don't know, but you could have a SS washer made to keep the drum from sticking to the wheel.

i brush a thin coat of never seize on the mating surfaces , it can be bought at any auto parts store , i also remove the wheels and inspect hub and bearings every fall . i have not had a problem .

You can get galvanized hubs. I've seen a few guys with aluminum wheels.

Kodiak makes SS disc brakes for boat trailers.

My trailer came with galvinized wheels

I used to use anti-seize on the back of the rim to keep it from sticking.

I know of stainless brake components but not rims. If they did and, I doubt it, they would be very expensive. Are you talking about drums? For the amount of driving you do, as I will do 100 miles in a weekend, I would just can the brakes all together and just be very careful. Doesn't sound like you trailer very far. I would take my chances but others may not. If you have a lot of money I can make them for you but you better be rich.

I only put about 5-20 miles per year on my trailer (under 40mph on country like roads). I have the rinse kit and use it all the time but I plan to replace the drums this winter, they are rusting and sticking to the brake and the fixed part of the structure that the brake is attached (don't know what that is called) anyway I don't like the way they look and function. For now I got it freed up and have the trailer raised off the ground and spin the wheels once a week and spray it with a lube to keep it moving. I had to pound it with a sledge to get it moving and will probably replace the entire thing. I was thinking of just removing the breaks in the meantime (if it re-occurs) because I doubt they are working anyway and my truck has some good breaks and I only go down the street with it normally twice a year.
I can't believe they don't make a better drum assembly for boat trailers.

common problem, hammer needed. Rinse kits are useless imo. If you get 2 season out of brakes you are doing real good. If it were me I would just adjust the brakes all the way back so they don't touch the drum and and just rely on your truck brakes and drive carefully. For that amount of trailering I would not even bother with trailer brakes. Just replace your wheel bearings every other year,clean and repack every year, and your drums every few years, because of rust, and you should be good to go.

Here is a good site for info and parts
http://shop.easternmarine.com/

Drum brakes last 2 yrs at most. I just changed mine to disc as I trailer quite a bit. From what I've seen online their life is much better. Fairly easy if you're mechanically inclined. For the amount you trailer, I'd just remove them, replace with a couple of standard hubs.

I had the same problem and I rinse mine after every use, got fed up with it and eliminated the brakes just last week. Cost me $90. for 2 new hub kits, comes with hubs, bearings, caps, seals and even studs and lug nuts..can't beat that. I enjoyed throwing the drums, backing plates and brakes in the trash...lol... I put a bolt thru the tongue to stop the surge brake master cylinder from moving and plugged the line with a brass fitting I got from the hardware store.. No more stuck brakes for me......

I don't know about stainless wheels; but they would be very expensive. I'm fortunate in living very close to a fresh water ramp where I can give the trailer a thorough freshwater soak on the way home after it's been in the salt. Rinse kits seem to be better than nothing imo, but not as good as a full submersion in a local pond.

Sandman, I wetslip my 23 Seacraft and when I do have it on a trailer I have a simular drive as you. I disconnected the brakes as well and my half ton GMC stops it with zero issues.

Jim,

I changed my drum brakes to stainless steel disc (Champion) in 2005. I haven't moved the trailer since last fall :-( but I had not had a problem up until then and they look very good. I rinse them with a simple green solution after each launch and haul. The exposure of the system vs. drum makes the rinse very effective.

My notes from my boat maintenance log are below. The do it yourself price is without the master cylinder is was $450 and the job was not that bad. Give me a call if you have any other Q's. That may not solve your entire issue but I hope it helps

Trailer Brakes
Disc
From Champion
$604 includes UPS Ground and master cylinder (no master cylinder saves $150)
Rotars are stainless steel and will not rust
Info needed:
Make/Model of brake coupler
Bearing ID Numbers
inner 68149
outer 44649
Seal
Bolt Pattern: 5 bolts on 4 1/2 " circle (should be 2 1/4" from center of hug to middle of lug bolt)

As much as you use it I would disconnect and never look back!! I have a 23 footer and I tow all season and have no breaks! And if I have anything to say about it, I never will have them!

But I know a few that had drums, and all have converted to disks now, stopping power much better and you can get all SS parts.