Im on my last can of VAL-OIL :lossinit: what should I change to, :spin:
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN:bl:

How bout epoxy sealing?

Helsman spar urethane, clear satin. Very similar characteristics of the Val oil. Epoxy sealing is good too. I usually only do that with soft woods though, red and white cedar and sometimes AYC if I am in the mood.

I dip in Behr exterior oil based primer, cut 50-50ish with mineral spirits

propianite is simple
mix the beads with acetone
dip and dip dry
keaves a nice coating that seals the wood pores

Helsman spar urethane, clear satin. Very similar characteristics of the Val oil. Epoxy sealing is good too. I usually only do that with soft woods though, red and white cedar and sometimes AYC if I am in the mood.

2nd except its better than valoil, imo.

zar polyurethane sanding sealer is working for me.

Slipknot, ACETONE:af: WOW I use to clean concrete off of bluestone w/ that stuff GREAT for etching or making EXPOSTED AGGRETE in walk an drive ways:spin: Im to old to change now :bl: guess Ill hunt some down an build up a supply.
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN
P.S Strike_King, got it. thank you :heybaby:ROAD TRIP

I think you mean acid, as in muriatic acid, not the same as acetone.

ya, acetone is much different than muriatic acid :uhuh:

acetone is just the solvent that delivers the plastic propianite beads to the wood, once it flashes off, you are left with wood saturated in plastic. I find it simpler than epoxy and almost as good.

you can get the propianite on the internet, acetone at paint stores

spar varnish works well also

you have to find yourself a system that works well for you for all the coatings

GOT IT:eek5:
thank you
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN:humpty:

ya, acetone is much different than muriatic acid :uhuh:

acetone is just the solvent that delivers the plastic propianite beads to the wood, once it flashes off, you are left with wood saturated in plastic. I find it simpler than epoxy and almost as good.

you can get the propianite on the internet, acetone at paint stores

spar varnish works well also

you have to find yourself a system that works well for you for all the coatings

do you have a link for the beads? can you pm it?

Thank you
Bill

I got some Bill if you want to buy them off me, real cheap.;) I also got the addy of the guy I think too. Not the Swedish guy the S. Carolina guy, if'n you want it.

I am low and need more also, I got it from the guy in SC but don't have the contact anymore.
Paul go ahead and post it if you want, I doubt if any sponsors here sell sealer.

Helsman spar urethane, clear satin. Very similar characteristics of the Val oil. Epoxy sealing is good too. I usually only do that with soft woods though, red and white cedar and sometimes AYC if I am in the mood.

Do you cut helmspar with mineral spirits? Or just dip it?

Yes, cut it by a third. I soak the plug in it. I have just used it a few times so far but it worked great. I do know guys who have been using for a while and they like it. I literally have at least 6 different solutions for sealing and jump around a lot but this one is very good and you can buy it most places. Worth using and I intend to use it more as I find it very similar to Val oil in how you use it and the end results. Val is getting too hard to come by anymore.

As far as the propionate goes I lost the info but if you go to Tackleunderground and look up the member Palmetto Balsa. He is the gentleman who sells it. His e-mail addy is in there too I just can't find it .

Yes, cut it by a third. I soak the plug in it. I have just used it a few times so far but it worked great. I do know guys who have been using for a while and they like it. I literally have at least 6 different solutions for sealing and jump around a lot but this one is very good and you can buy it most places. Worth using and I intend to use it more as I find it very similar to Val oil in how you use it and the end results. Val is getting too hard to come by anymore.

As far as the propionate goes I lost the info but if you go to Tackleunderground and look up the member Palmetto Balsa. He is the gentleman who sells it. His e-mail addy is in there too I just can't find it .

Thanks! I'm looking for a new sealer, so i'm going to give it a shot. I have 2 quarts of it in the garage!

just make sure it is the clear satin from what I understand it does matter. Maybe Chris, PNG , can tell you why better than I.

Karl I think it has something to do with wax in the gloss or something to that effect. I do scuff with light sand paper or scotchbrite with any of the sealers i use though.

I usually scuff it up with a light sand paper before I prime.

Have you had any adhesion issues? I've had adhesion issues with proprionate/BIN, and a sanding sealer/BIN. So I'm trying new combinations.

I will look at the can of helmspar and see if it has any wax in its ingredients.

Great info on this thread!

Yes, it is the clear Satin.

no issues for me. I prefer Krylon primer. give it a try and let us know.

problem I had with propionate/acetone is it evaporating . I'd go to use it again and jar be half full .. think its gone now .. I'm using cpes now ,wich is a great sealer/hardener , but after thats gone I'll be looking for something eles. PIA mixing 2 part sealer ,, I just want to dip ... no mix ..

Yes Karl less sanding with satin, alot less. no wax in it.

I like it because its oil based and finsihes clean unlike valoil which isnt an oil more of a basterdised resin/laquer.

I found cpes excells on soft wood to penetrate & harden. 1 long soak > 2 dips or long cpes *dry* then dip in urethane to fill<tagger

Urethane (thinned) 1 long soak> 1 dip sand between always sand regardless what product label says cpes too.

use the spar, same as the clearshield just less uv stuff & cheaper

The only prob I have is finding a suitable container to soak a few plugs in with an easy access lid that seals. I do use bloxygen which displaces the o2 preventing drying in the container...

Yeah .What he said.:uhuh: thanks Chris

I have stumbled on it (VO) twice while shopping in mom and pop hardware stores. I just found four gallons the other day(bought one) next payday I am buying another. I like it a lot.

I am going to keep the other options in mind for later on down the road.

I think you mean acid, as in muriatic acid, not the same as acetone.
Nope,not the same as acetone. Still not the best choice of chemicals to be exposing yourself to
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Acetone-9927062

would you believe I found some at Monark supply they had qt's an gal's YES ! I feel good:bshake:Im good for a few years now:tooth:
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN

Tried the Minwax Helmsman clear satin today. Cut it w/ pure turps 60/40. I bought a plastic 5 qt. sealable container from the hardware store. Soaked a couple of needles for a couple minutes. I want to see tomorrow how they coated the wood. Last years clear shield harden up. Couldn't find any today but they had the helmsman. i keep you posted.

I am low and need more also, I got it from the guy in SC but don't have the contact anymore.
Paul go ahead and post it if you want, I doubt if any sponsors here sell sealer.

Stumbled onto this and remembered
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/classified-ads/14010-propionate-wood-sealer.html

I sealed a few plugs w/ 60/40 helmsman spar & mineral spirits. Dropped them in solution for 5 min. dried then tried it again. Double seal?? Seems ok. I swam the protos and checked for absorbion, no weight gain or splitting. They were birch wood. Sanded, primed w/ Bin ( shellac base) and paint (createx). I like. Seemed like the clear shield from Minwax. Paul ,do you think 60/40 mix is too diluted?? Your mix is 2/3 to 1/3. One thing at least you don't have to wait 1-2 weeks for BLO to dry. I also find BOL doesn't seem to keep the hard woods from cracking from the hook and weight holes.

Stumbled onto this and remembered
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/classified-ads/14010-propionate-wood-sealer.html


I get it on ebay. 19 oz 25 bucks

i don't wanna step on png's shoes, but i would venture a guess it takes less scuffing on the satin to get an agreeable surface for primer/paint adhesion, than gloss, or hi-gloss would.. but i would imagine either way, a light sanding, or scotchpad would be needed to prep for primer/paint...
what say u png?

BINGO

I assume you need a well ventilated space to use the propoinate?

Yes . It does evaporate fast though. I do it in a big place so I just use a fan and point it towards my fellow worker. But I have given up on it. Next

I do it in may basement, I just keep the paint vent on.