Looking into a setup for a handful of bunker to be transported short distances, and to be fished the same day. The Cabelas KeepAlive 20 gallon Tank System seems like an expensive option ($235). I'm thinking that their KeepAlive Aerator (about $45) and a nice cooler would do the trick (20 gallon big enough?). Anyone do this and how successful are you in keeping the bait fresh? I did a small experiment last summer. It appeared that the cooler and aerator were a little small. Bunker was decently stressed. Thanks, Chris

I've got a nice set up I will sell you.
pm me for more info

had a 30g insulated keepalive. was great. would keep herring for days. as far as the cooler - try it. round would be a better shape. w/ the herring moratorium there are alot around collecting dust so put up a post in the classifieds.

Whatever system you use, if you are snagging, be sure to let the baits bleed out before putting them in the livewell, and then , only use the healthy ones. A little blood will kill them quick in tight confines.

if u r moving pogies ,remember bigger is better 4 transporting 2gal = 1 pogie . make your own w/ 55gal drum cut in half or layed on its side ...use commerical grade airator or a 1100+ gpm bilge pump . or both .. k.i.m. 1gal =8lbs .no blood in tank.keep it foam free w/ a salteen cracker.block of ice to chill saltwater. ovel is better than squaire. a good batt...for 10-12 pogies for 2hrs u need at least 30 gal tank...... or find one cheap from a x herrin chocker....or c raider ronnie .......dave ..re..former herrin transporter :devil2:

Right on with the bleeders, the blood clogs their gills..When snagging I would have two pails.One for transport to the truck and another to bleed em out in that has to be changed with every bleeder..
You to handle them as little as possible.You will remover their slime.Picky bass can tell when a fish has it's slime removed.They will just play wit em.I guess it is harder to get em down.
Cabela's 50 gallon round tank is awesome.It can probably hold up to a dozen baits with cool water no problem.For air it is hard to beat the Dayton pump.It's shaped like a coffe can and draws .08 amps.Run a line with a quick connection.I used light gage extension cords...

http://images.westmarine.com/full/1184357.jpg (javascript:scroll(0,0))

This little pump is all you need.Not bad money and draws around 1/4 amp..Get a better stone diffuser.I could not find the Dayton pumps.A friend has this one.It's so quite you can't tell if it's running..Keeping the water cool and fresh is as or more important than the amount of air..I use plastic pepsi bottles with frozen water in em.You do not want to add ice with bunker.They don't like the fresh water.I do use a Keep Alive water additive.It promotes fish slime,keeps em calm. That's good as they are more active when stressed which in turn they will need more oxygen.Don't over do it..You could fashion a tank from a plastic 60 gallon drum also.Lots of guys I now use em.The car wash places get their soap in these and have em for nothing..Cut it a little bigger than half.You can make a top out of 3/4 plywood set down about 3 inches.This keeps the water from going all over when filling with a pail..Screw it in from the sides.Some silicone..Cut out a door,use a hinge and a little closer lock..I would suggest to poly the lid..Install a drain cock on the bottom.Or as close to the bootom as you can..Your going to have to be inventive here.Use A Marine grade chaulk/sealant.A drain with a valve helps.With a detachable hose.Some don't use a valve,They tape off a S hook on the hose and secure it above the water line..You will use this to drain water(da).You will need at least of foot of water in a pail to transport your bait to your fishing location.I have made maybe 5 or six of these over the years.We used to have a 200 gallon tank for group Bunker/herring runs.You can penn Bunker also.If they have enough room they will last quite a while as long as the water is cool..If you want a I can take a pic of my set-up.It used to be THE way to fish for large in the spring/summer here in NJ..

Good info here guys. As I head down this path, I'll share my trials and tribulations.

RR - Pm'd ya.

Niko/Rick - looks like round is the way to go and watch for bleeders - got it.

Stiff Tip - 2 gal =1 Pogie :D Being a geek engineer by trade, much appreciated, with all the other good info stuffed in your post.

NIB - Took a ride to the car wash today. Prognosis is looking pretty good to snag a drum tomorrow from the manager :btu: Don't want to put you out for a picture just yet. If I get rolling on a home built. I may take you up on it. The KeepAlive Aerator looks like they move/filter water and inject bubbles at the same time. Are you suggesting that the bubbler (in your picture) is all you need? This would certainly cut down on the amps required.

Good info here guys. As I head down this path, I'll share my trials and tribulations.

RR - Pm'd ya.

Niko/Rick - looks like round is the way to go and watch for bleeders - got it.

Stiff Tip - 2 gal =1 Pogie :D Being a geek engineer by trade, much appreciated, with all the other good info stuffed in your post.

NIB - Took a ride to the car wash today. Prognosis is looking pretty good to snag a drum tomorrow from the manager :btu: Don't want to put you out for a picture just yet. If I get rolling on a home built. I may take you up on it. The KeepAlive Aerator looks like they move/filter water and inject bubbles at the same time. Are you suggesting that the bubbler (in your picture) is all you need? This would certainly cut down on the amps required.


The keep alive sucks..The motor is in the water.That adds heat..The filter that surrounds the unit gets clogged from scales.There's tons of scales..It makes a terrible foam. This is bad as surface foam depletes oxygen..Too many things to go wrong..You can't afford to have hard to get baits go bad on ya.Especially when it counts..Check out a site called aquaticeco .com They specialize in this sort of things.Call em for a catalog to blow your mind up..Like I said I use a similar low amp pump it works great.All you need is some air.You don't need to blow there scales off.Other factors like I mentioned are more important for healthy baits.
First and foremost is plenty of room..I would say In my experience for the bunk, 4-5 gallons of water per bait is a good formula..Keeping it cool with fresh changes is important also.
So lets say you have a 35 gallon tank..If ya get your bait before sunrise You can jam maybe 8 or 10 in there..Maybe you use 4-6 baits.With a change of water after the morning fishing.If you can keep it cool you'll have some for the late afternoon run..Cool water does two things it slows the bait down, they stress less and use less oxygen and it holds the oxygen better..
IMO the difference between the 36 gallon tank and the 50 is huge.
It has a greater diameter which they seem to like.Plus the obvious of more water per bait..If I could make any suggestions it would be to get the larger tank if you can..

Your gonna love this as they go nuts for live's..If they are there you'll raise em..I also use a little bucket bubbler. It's screwed to my pail so I can drag 2 baits with me to the fishing spots.I use a 7 gallon pail with enough water in it to cover the baits..This gets me to the water.Some spots are a good walk back and forth with the bucket..Can be a PITA.Once at the waters edge I will fill it up..The ocean here is usually cooler in the summer months.The blend of tank and ocean water will help to keep em from getting shocked from the cooler ocean water..I have had what appeared to be nice baits roll over when ya set em in..

chris....once u transport your bait to your location than get landrey basket w/ cover for a live cart and place your live bait in the basket in the sea water.. live well should be used for transporting .move your bait to salt water if poss.

Through NIB's suggestion, was able to snag a plastic 55 gal plastic drum from the local car wash for nada. Cut it down to about a 25 gallon size. From all the info recieved, plus how I'm going to fish this method, and the vehicle/gear ratio, this seemed to be the optimal size for me.

The top was sealed on, so I cut that off too and will try to re-use it. It is now slightly smaller then the belly of my newly formed tub, hence the reason for the two, 2" wide bands you see (cut those from the excess body). I think I will create an inside lip with the bands so the top will be more snug. Scraped off all the burs created by the cutting process with a small hand planer. Whole process so far took about 45 minutes. I'll post more pics as I progress. Hope it helps someone someday. Time for beer and football.

Through NIB's suggestion, was able to snag a plastic 55 gal plastic drum from the local car wash for nada. Cut it down to about a 25 gallon size. From all the info recieved, plus how I'm going to fish this method, and the vehicle/gear ratio, this seemed to be the optimal size for me.

The top was sealed on, so I cut that off too and will try to re-use it. It is now slightly smaller then the belly of my newly formed tub, hence the reason for the two, 2" wide bands you see (cut those from the excess body). I think I will create an inside lip with the bands so the top will be more snug. Scraped off all the burs created by the cutting process with a small hand planer. Whole process so far took about 45 minutes. I'll post more pics as I progress. Hope it helps someone someday. Time for beer and football.


Looks small.
You rarely fill it to the top with water.It wants to spill out..
So you have a 23 gallon tank.
The top has to be secured.The lid has to be secured It all has to be water tight or your gonna have a mess.The water is going to slosh around.
You'll need a door for the top.
If you can get a chlorine pail with a screw lid they work well as a door also.Cut the pail and set it into the top.You'll have to cut a nice round hole in the top.The screw lid works well as a door...Use stainless hardware for everything..Big pan heads screws like size 12, in 3/4" length will work to hold the top on.Pre drill slightly smaller, and silicone the hell out of it.It's still better to use the plywood like I suggested.It will give ya something to screw the inside of the pail for the door to.If ya go that route.Use 1" screws.

what do u drive .if it a truck make live well at least 35 gal .resess the cover 1or 2 inchs .cut hole in cover big enouph to store your 5gal pails when m-t ,put rope handles on it for moving around. live wells r e-z to make .good airation system and lots of room it the key to livies .... imo your tank looks a little small for 12 pogies .mabey ok for herrin. i keep 2 live wells 1 @ 35 1@ 55 gal .i could keep 20 or 40 herrin for 4hrs ok w/ cold water with these, half that # for pogies keep the foam out w/a saltian cracker

It is on the small side. I wasn't ignoring you guys. Here's the deal and I'll try not to bore you with my life story. I take about 50 trips a year from April through Dec. Problem is, I go once a weekend and I have about a 4-6 hour window to fish. Being a soloist, I'm figiuring I will probably use about 6 bunker at most when I do this. Plus my vehicle is a Honda Pilot. so with my other gear, this size semed to be the most practical.

Anyway, Here is how it turned out. I redirected back to NIB's suggestions and used a wooden top. For an access hole, I went with a cut down 5 gallon bucket. I would have preferred the screw top clorine bucket, but the pool place was not open today.

I cut the 5 gallon pail long enough to stick about a half inch beyond the plywood after you place it through the hole in the wood top. This way, I have a caulking lip where the wood meets the pail's plastic. I also screwed the sidewalls of the pail into the edge of the wood top. As NIB suggested, #12 x 3/4" stainless pan heads. The second picture is the underside of the wood top. The third is a view from the top.

I found this to use as a drain port in the electrical section. 3/4" threads on one end with an o-ring against the flange. Picked up another o-ring in the hose repair section, and sandwiched them on each side of the tank (not tested yet). The flange on the other will accept a 5/8" hose and clamp. Then I'll just add a hose on/off switch for a couple of bucks.

Tapped the wooden top into the tank about a half inch down. Kept it as high as possible since it is a smaller tank. Used #12 x 1" stainless pan head screws and secured the top through the tanks sidewall. Caulked the top and blind caulked the underside (gunk and feel method). Hopefully with the snap lid I will be able to fill as much a s possible with worrying about the slop. Now, just need to add Power Bubbles, a saltine cracker, enclosed ice chunks, and some bait!

For those who may stumble across this thread in the future and want to build your own tank, take a hard look at the specs that NIB and Stiff Tip lay out before starting - that's the real deal and there is tons of info buried in their posts.

Tank looks good.You should have said right off the bat the size of your ride.Height is key.You have to be able to pour a pail of water in it while it is in the back..You have all winter to find a screw top pail.If you know someone with a pool they will have a pail for ya.You can always swap it out.You want to get some 5200 marine caulk for the drain fitting..You can get a small tube at any marine store.Nice fitting the 90 degree angle saves room.
Ya really should Put some Paint or poly on the top side of the lid..The wood will just disintegrate after time.
Looks like ya built a tank for about 20 bucks..:kewl:

Thanks again for the insight - very helpful. Never thought about the paint. I'll snag some and the marine caulk to boot <'*))))><

http://images.westmarine.com/full/1184357.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:scroll(0,0))

This little pump is all you need...You could fashion a tank from a plastic 60 gallon drum also.Lots of guys I now use em.The car wash places get their soap in these and have em for nothing..Cut it a little bigger than half.You can make a top out of 3/4 plywood set down about 3 inches.This keeps the water from going all over when filling with a pail..Screw it in from the sides.Some silicone..Cut out a door,use a hinge and a little closer lock..I would suggest to poly the lid...


Classic case of too much info at one time I guess..:chased:

Might want to think about a larger drain valve. 3/4" will take forever to empty. I use 3" petcocks on my tanks at home

Nice tank,,,,, I would have used laminating epoxy to seal the wood top before installing it then caulked it into place,,,,,

chris ....like i said ,there e-z to make ...it looks great . you will customize and twik it to your needs. if you can put the pogies in a live cart when you get there its better. ...nib i bet u have build a few live wells before .i never had luck with bubbles alone .even in the swiming pool w/ 2500 gal current w/ circlualtion, changing the water , and shade worked best for about 400 herrin .....

lets talk about rule 1100 pump w/ air ventorie ,for flow and air bubbles .flow should be in the clockwize flow . i could go on but you dont need it ........

I've never done pogies in my truck but I did do herring for many years. the keep alive seemed fine to me. The round sponge that goes around the outside of the pump keeps the scales out of the pump. You just need to clean it now and then , epsecially after you first catch them and there are lots of scales coming off do to the handling. also as stated above , you really want to get the bait fish back into the water in a laundry basket. This not only keeps them alive better but also gives some who have been stressed in the tank a chnace to get reoxigenated and recover.

So that's a vote for Keep alive but i have to say that trying to catch and keep bait alive in your motor vehicle is the single biggest PITA in fishing! :)

Might want to think about a larger drain valve...

I was just glad to find something at the bog box stores that would work and I really wanted the 90 degree. If it gets annoying, I'll swap it out this summer.


Nice tank,,,,, I would have used laminating epoxy to seal the wood top before installing it then caulked it into place,,,,,

Yes - Lesson learned. A V8 moment for sure and I missed it in NIB's earlier post. It'll be a little cumbersome to do it now, but I got all winter :smokin:


...if you can put the pogies in a live cart when you get there its better...

Hey thanks for all your help. This will be the next winter fishing project.


...So that's a vote for Keep alive but i have to say that trying to catch and keep bait alive in your motor vehicle is the single biggest PITA in fishing! :)...

Where were you when I started this thing :D I'm going with the school of NIB for now - bubbles only (plus enclosed ice and some other additives). If they start dying out in numbers, I'll revisit what you and Stiff Tip are suggesting.

I was just glad to find something at the bog box stores that would work and I really wanted the 90 degree. If it gets annoying, I'll swap it out this summer.




Yes - Lesson learned. A V8 moment for sure and I missed it in NIB's earlier post. It'll be a little cumbersome to do it now, but I got all winter :smokin:


Hey thanks for all your help. This will be the next winter fishing project.




Where were you when I started this thing :D I'm going with the school of NIB for now - bubbles only (plus enclosed ice and some other additives). If they start dying out in numbers, I'll revisit what you and Stiff Tip are suggesting.




I have built 200 gal tanks with a six stone system that we would transport 150 herring in.I have done 7 others from 30 -50 gallons.
I Primarily use what is called a hospital pump.It's a piston pump that was used to pump air in a hospital.It's on the workbench as there is something not quite right with it.So I'm back to my original pump.My first pump was the Dayton.Like I mentioned but I could not seem to find it on the web.It was small like a coffe can.It has a draw of .08 amps which was great.I could run it quite while with no wrorries..I would use this to go to trenton bringing back 35 herring in a 35 gallon tank.About a hr ride with some in there from the time it takes to catch em.There would be the ususal casualties mostly from handling but for the most part the pump was more that adequate.This is really stretching their limitaions..
While I agree with Saltheart on a basket.I have used the collapsable Mesh net type on the backside flats of Nantucket.It does not really suit my needs from the jetty's.I have to keep em in the tank in my van.I hump em in a pail usually one at a time to my fishing locations.Most of my livelining takes place in the early summer months.I have a dark van and it can get really hot in there.So the I have gone thru best means of keeping my bait fresh.I ususally catch em in the wee hrs of the morning.I prefer to start with a good number like 8-10 in a 50 gallon tank.I keep em as they deplete thru attrition thru the day..I ususally wont go fishing unless I have at least 4 good baits.
I have also built a holding pen that is 4x8 by 5 ft tall.It's a masterpeice of ABS pipe and mesh..The Herring Motel..If I am not going to use em all I might penn em..
I put quite a bit of work into my live baits.I have learned what works and what does not the hard way..
My friend has been using that pump a few yrs now with no problems.Yes there are larger ones.I have a pump that with one stone will boil a dozen bunker.They also will dram more amperage.You will have toi get a better stone.You are going to have to wieght it to keep it on the bottom.Them square edged white stones work well and are heavy enough to stay on the bottom..
Aquaticeco .com has everything.

We used to add ice to keep things cool and some anti foam and anti ammonia drops. You can get it from any tackle shop that has livewells for eels and shiners.

For completeness for future searches...
Here is a final shot of the unit. Tank tested fine - water tight. I tried a couple of stones from Petco. They looked great, big pancake disks, heavy, etc. They ended up s#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g and the ones that came with the Power Bubbles were much better (aquaticeco.com will be next as needed). Drilled three small holes in lid to relive pressure from aerator. I also bought a car charger extension from radio shack, cut it half, put the male on the aerator and the female on the clips that came with aerator. Now I can do cigarette lighter or direct to a battery.

http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=32697&d=1237166961

hello all,
New to the site, seems a lot of interesting info such as this thread.

I am curious of what the maximum amount of time you could keep a bait like pog/mac alive for in a holding tank such as this design? Assuming the baits are in good condition when they enter. I know it's been a while on this one, hope I can bring it back to life. Thanks for the info.
TRW101

Probably repost your question in the main forum, this area is more historical favorites. A lot of factors determine how long, water, temps, ammonia, flushing, sunlight, shape, etc - no surprises there really ;)

hello all,
New to the site, seems a lot of interesting info such as this thread.

I am curious of what the maximum amount of time you could keep a bait like pog/mac alive for in a holding tank such as this design? Assuming the baits are in good condition when they enter. I know it's been a while on this one, hope I can bring it back to life. Thanks for the info.
TRW101

Hi TRW, Even though I have built one, unfortunately I don't have the hands on experience yet to answer this one. I have been out about 4 times early in the season with the tank and struck out each time from shore. I was hoping a salty veteren would be able to answer this one for you. Follow John's advice.