After about a year and a half im finally trying to build a cod jiggin stick. I originally had a fuji 22 reel seat and it was too small, got a 24 and its too big, is there any way to build up the blank and use the reel seat? Same goes for the foam grip, its to big as well. Do i need to go shopping again or can it work? Function not fashion. I know its going to be ugly.

Bring it into the shop. (not this weekend)
I'll show you how to do it and we will swap out the grips fro the right size

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYgeipNUJGA

Thanks mike,
F18 that was a great video, im going to check out the rest of them.

After about a year and a half im finally trying to build a cod jiggin stick. I originally had a fuji 22 reel seat and it was too small, got a 24 and its too big, is there any way to build up the blank and use the reel seat? Same goes for the foam grip, its to big as well. Do i need to go shopping again or can it work? Function not fashion. I know its going to be ugly.

Depending on how much too large the reel seat is, you have two options that work well.

1) if the reel seat is just slightly too big, build up the rod with a good quality masking tape (3M). Keep adding wraps of tape around the blank in 3 to 4 spots (not along the whole length, but just 3-4 the width of the tape) where the reel seat will go. You should get it where the seat just barely slides across the tape. Don't make it too tight or the glue has no where to go. Once you get slight friction where the seat contacts the tape, mix up your epoxy, apply it on the tape and the blank, slide on the reel seat, and let it cure. I've never had a seat move on me using this technique.

2) if the reel seat is too large for #1, you can purchase graphite arbors (CMS has them) for your seat diameter. You may have to ream them out a bit to fit the diameter of the blank and the fact that the blank will have a taper to it.

I've done both...and both work well.

I guess I should have watched the video first...sorry for the repetition :) :cputin:

Sorry for my ramblings, but one more thought. Since you're refurbishing an old rod, when you remove the eyes, make sure you mark exactly where the guides were before (eyes up or down) so that when you put on the new reel seat you know which way the spine (or spline) of the rod is so that you can face the reel seat properly.

Also, remember if you're converting from spinning to conventional (or vice versa) that the reel seat will need to be 180 degrees of the way it was before.

If you've already removed the guides and forgot to mark the direction of the eyes, there are ways to re-locate the spine.

If you want to build it or repair it yourself thrn follow the advice. All good advice. If you just want to get that rod starightened out , Take Mike T up on his offer! :)

Sorry for my ramblings, but one more thought. Since you're refurbishing an old rod, when you remove the eyes, make sure you mark exactly where the guides were before (eyes up or down) so that when you put on the new reel seat you know which way the spine (or spline) of the rod is so that you can face the reel seat properly.

Also, remember if you're converting from spinning to conventional (or vice versa) that the reel seat will need to be 180 degrees of the way it was before.

If you've already removed the guides and forgot to mark the direction of the eyes, there are ways to re-locate the spine.

Sorry guy ......... but you are assuming that the rod was splined correctly in the first place and that the guides were placed properly.

If you want it done correctly then don't mark the center of the reelseat or the guides and do your own spline check and guide placement as you would with any new build.

Only mark the reelseat and guides if you just want to refurbish exactly what you have now.

Of course I was assuming that the rod was functioning properly before...but yes, it never hurts to recheck the spine.

Of course I was assuming that the rod was functioning properly before...but yes, it never hurts to recheck the spine.

I didn't say functioning properly ........ I said splined correctly .... big difference. Many rods are not splined even by custom builders and the rods function properly but many times not to peak performance.

For the spline, there are 2 schools of thought. To build on the spline and to build on the straightest edge. Dale Clemmens used to preach building on the spline while Tom Kirkman preaches on the straightest edge. Most production rods and custom builders that follow Kirkman build on the straightest edge.

I prefer to spline my rods ......... in my humble opinion it just gives a little better performance ........

So ...... if you just want to reproduce what you have then just mark what you have and re do it ............. if you want to make sure you have the best performance then start from scratch ..... spline the rod ..... do your stress and other tests to determine the proper guide placement and make a snug fit of your handles and reel seat ........etc

I prefer to spline my rods ......... in my humble opinion it just gives a little better performance ........

Why do I get the impression that there is very little that is "humble" about your opinions?

Why do I get the impression that there is very little that is "humble" about your opinions?

Gee .... thanks for the personal slam .........

Sorry you can't have an intelligent exchange of information .......

It's people like you that curtail the sharing of really good and useful information .......

I could really slam you back but that would just bring me down to your level ..... besides the fish are biting and I have 3 rods to finish

Sorry I shared some ideas ....... won't happen again