I know it was cold this winter, but come on . . . I got the boat out this weekend, she started right up, but the steering is frozen - wouldn't move at all. I greased it well when winterized and again today, but still nothing... The engine is a 2002 125 Merc outboard.

I've disconnected the steering rod and the engine turns effortlessly.

I also disconnected the aluminum steering nut (not sure what it's called). When disconnected, I can turn the weel and the cable will move easily and smoothly. So I believe the cable is fine.

Removed the large nut on the starboard side, the other side was stuck. I'm relatively sure the steering ram is the problem (I think). I couldn't get it to budge. Saturated it with PB Blaster and cleaned it as best as I could. Tried some light tapping with a rubber mallet. Finally, tried the torch, but not too much - didn't want to melt anything.

I'm taking the PB Blaster route right now and letting it sit overnight. Any other tips on how to loosen the steering ram? I'll try and get a picture up tomorrow. Hopefully this makes sense...

Many thanks,
Rich
:gu:

Re conect it... have sombody try to turn it but not snap it while you tap the rod the way it would move. Go both directions until it frees up. I have got what seems like impossibly stuck motors free...

A 4 lb hammer agenst wood works better than the rubber malet

Mine was frozen too. Dave (Fishaholic18) replaced the cable for me and we are fine now. I would suspect that's the problem.

Needs a new cable...for sure....:heybaby:

cable

I had the same problem with my old Johnson. I replaced the cable and it worked fine. The next year it was frozen again. The problem is not the cable, it's the tube on the front of the motor. When they replaced my cable they cleaned the tube and greased it, but moisture got in and it rusted again. I couldn't break it loose for nothing. I tried everything. When I disconnected the cable from the motor, the steering from the helm worked, the motor turned free, but reconnecting the cable to the tube, the steering was frozen. The nuts on each end of the tube were allowing moisture to enter the tube and rust up. I'd disconnect the cable and remove one of the tube nuts and try to clean it out. Replace those nuts. BE CAREFULL! The motor could fall off. I had other problems with my motor, overheating, smoking, running rough. I dumped it and replaced it with a new E-Tec. Great move! Great motor!

I had the same problem with my old Johnson. I replaced the cable and it worked fine. The next year it was frozen again. The problem is not the cable, it's the tube on the front of the motor. When they replaced my cable they cleaned the tube and greased it, but moisture got in and it rusted again. I couldn't break it loose for nothing. I tried everything. When I disconnected the cable from the motor, the steering from the helm worked, the motor turned free, but reconnecting the cable to the tube, the steering was frozen. The nuts on each end of the tube were allowing moisture to enter the tube and rust up. I'd disconnect the cable and remove one of the tube nuts and try to clean it out. Replace those nuts. BE CAREFULL! The motor could fall off. I had other problems with my motor, overheating, smoking, running rough. I dumped it and replaced it with a new E-Tec. Great move! Great motor!

That sound like a motor shaft problem...nothing to do with cable....

Ies the tube... you need to get the old cable out and clean it up... next fall store it with the cable out or replace the tilt tube...

What MTC said it's corrosion in the tilt tube, it was an every year thing for me until I installed a Steersman.

http://www.steersman.com/html/whatitdoes.html

I loosen the cable and then bash it through the tilt tube with mallet against wood. You may need to chase it through the tilt tube with a dowel or metal rod. Make sure you clean the inside of the tube good, I used a 12ga shotgun brush on a drill, then install the Steersman. Do not, do not force the helm or you will be buying a new one of those....how do I know well let's just say lesson learned :hee:

Ah the fun of boats. Been there done that. All good advise above. I take the whole thing apart every fall and reassemble every spring. Worth the extra work IMO. I also changed over to hydraulic, Baystar, and like it. I had to hone out the tube though. Full of rust. I still take it apart every fall and I fill tube with grease and plug both ends in the fall. Honda 90. Good luck Rich

I also have a Honda 90, I still wonder why the tilt tube isn't stainless.

Yes always wondered myself, stupid IMO

I had hat problem last year... it was the tube in front of the motor... I tried to bang it loose, no go... 420 dollars finally fixed it....

Same as Paul, I take out of tube in the fall, clean well, put in a bag. Spring clean tube and all well, you good to go, repeat next fall.

Never be stuck again.

Hondas are notorious for it... Good engines but the tubes #$&()

My 86 85 HP Force does that just about every Spring, no matter what I do in the Fall. I wedge a 2x4 verically inside the well, and use another 5 foot 2 by as a lever right on the end of the shaft where the motor connects. A little effort and pop, all is well. Then I take the mess apart, and rifle the bore smooth and re-grease. I have changed the grease fitting to an oiler during the season. It's always when it sits a long time. good luck.

I also have a Honda 90, I still wonder why the tilt tube isn't stainless.

It is on my Yamaha 90

I don't know why they are not SS

If I could change it over, make a new one , I would. It is what it is. Just bad design. Just take precautions and it is really no problem.

when replacing the tubes they do sell SS now ask your dealer when you need one. My friend just did his Yamaha

:realmad:
Still no luck. I'm hesitant to cut the cable, don't quite know what I'm getting into.

On a scale of 1 to 10, where would you rate the complexity of replacing a steering cable?

Are replacement parts pretty standard?

Thanks for all the help. Just trying to guage what I'm getting into.

If you want to bring it by friday I will see if I can help you free it up
Behind Good Sport on 3A in Cohasset
166 King st

There is some advice on Teleflex's website FAQs.

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/cgi-bin/frameset3.cgi?site=home&type=us&link2=1043


Click FAQs and mechanical steering....

If its stuck that bad, they do suggest cutting the cable and tapping it out. Use lots of PB blaster......

Ah the fun of boats. Been there done that. All good advise above. I take the whole thing apart every fall and reassemble every spring. Worth the extra work IMO. I also changed over to hydraulic, Baystar, and like it. I had to hone out the tube though. Full of rust. I still take it apart every fall and I fill tube with grease and plug both ends in the fall. Honda 90. Good luck Rich

This is THE only way to deal with the problem, maintenance is the best medicine,the root of the problem starts with the seal on the tilt tube, which is designed to keep out water, but only does so minimumly, the seal wipes off all grease and lubricant, but does nothing or little to stop the water from infiltrating the shaft,tilt tube and cable, steering cables are made in 3 pieces, the outer sheith, a cable and a push rod, which is attached to the cable and slides inside the tilt tube, the push rod is the problem, removing the cable each fall and cleaning and re lubing the cable, and push rod is THE only way to end the spring misery....

to free it up, remove the steeing link and install 3/8 bolt in the end of the push rod to keep from crushing the hole, spray the rod with rust penetrant, which is thinnner than most oils and close to the consistancy of water, have and assitant apply pressure via the steering wheel and using a block of wood to protect the rod use a heavy hammer give several sharp blows to the end of the rod( protected by the block of wood) lighter hammers do more damage than heavy ones.. depending on the degree of the seizure, this can take some serious time...once it moves, try working it back the other way, some become so siezed/rusted that you can only drive them one way and removal of the entire cable may be needed... .I'v only seen one that was impossible to get out, that one required removal of the tilt tube...

BTW... the bay star system is awesome, I went to it about 5 years ago.. I'll never have cable steering gain...

Honest guys. Try the 2x4 lever method before you attempt any banging. You can add a lot of force with a 6' piece of lumber.

Honest guys. Try the 2x4 lever method before you attempt any banging. You can add a lot of force with a 6' piece of lumber.

you also can bend the push arm, trying to apply pressure with a "strong arm" is very difficult in this application, I've seen people put holes in thier boats trying to do just that... if you bend that rod you are now looking at a serious problem....and will HAVE to replace the tilt tube and cable, which means lifting the motor with a crane or engine hoist...the shock of the hammer blow, even through the wooden block is what frees the steering, it would take 3 times the force applied in a steady pull to have the same effect....as long as you put the bolt in the hole and use a block of wood, no harm will come to the push shaft...

That cable is junk at this point!!

Spray the crap out of it then add a bit of heat and drive it out of there, after it is out clean tube, and add new cable, then follow advice about pulling it out in the fall!

:realmad:
Still no luck. I'm hesitant to cut the cable, don't quite know what I'm getting into.

On a scale of 1 to 10, where would you rate the complexity of replacing a steering cable?

Are replacement parts pretty standard?

Thanks for all the help. Just trying to guage what I'm getting into.
Not a bad job if it's the cable...If you have the clearance to get the cable out....Sometimes you have to unbolt the motor to get some clearance.....

:realmad:
Still no luck. I'm hesitant to cut the cable, don't quite know what I'm getting into.

On a scale of 1 to 10, where would you rate the complexity of replacing a steering cable?

Are replacement parts pretty standard?

Thanks for all the help. Just trying to guage what I'm getting into.

The cable is easy to replace, I am doing mine because its gotten a bit stiff. Not in the tilt tube, but within the cable. There should be a stamped/painted part number on the cable at the helm end maybe a foot or two down. Just type that number into google products and VIOLA !!!
Something like (SSC or QC (quick connect)) with a four digit number the last two numbers are the length. I found mine on ebay cheap.

The cables are typically around 70-90 bucks online.

I am lucky because I modified the motor well to get the cable in WITHOUT moving the engine (that would suck!!!!!)... So replacing for me is easy. I can't tell you how it will be for you. You have to have enough room to pull the rod straight and fully out of the tube without bending it (that is assuming it comes free). If you can get the old one out that way, the new one will go in the same. Feed the new one through the boat from the stern toward the helm go past the helm so you can get it in the tilt tube first, and bolted on. Then you just spin the wheel to pull the pigtail end into the helm, then bolt on the cable end to the helm. Your done.

When I'm done reassembling, I'll post a pic of what I use to get long life out of these cables. I have not had to remove the cable in years and it still did not get stuck in the tilt tube. I think it just wore out internally.

Finished the steering cable install today and i took a couple of pics to show how I keep it working well.

The bellows is neoprene and last forever. It keeps water off the tube and rod and also keeps grease form dripping down into the well.

On the cable side I added the "steering buddy". It lubricates the internal of the cable not in the tilt tube. It increases the life of the cable. I am powered with a 175 rude and there is alot of torque. The mechanical steering is tough but works just fine for me ..and it builds .:musc::musc::musc:

Those cables are a PIA. Remove and replace, don't f' with it.

That steering on the verado is the way to go.

Those cables are a PIA. Remove and replace, don't f' with it.

That steering on the verado is the way to go.

Steer by wire? Right.
Its throttle and shift by wire too if I'm not mistaken.

Very slick, no heavy hoses or cables....

slightly OT :
I was never a merc fan but I had to make a loooong run (several hundred miles) with one on a delivery of sorts, it was one of the most comfortable OB's I have ever run.

The "slick" part is the very well integrated display which you can set digitally...ie, you set each engine(s) to run at 2550 rpm...perfectly and stay there, like a cruise control of sorts. It is nice when you use it and simple to figure out. Not to mention you can monitor everything (I mean everything, including history) from the display. As for the steering, you send a digital signal to the motor, the hydraulic steering unit is built into the OB housing, the only thing connecting the motor to the helm are wires. I know many old timers will balk at this idea and say "I would rather have push pull or hydraulic lines"...but don't knock it until you try this. Also, I have found the old mechanical approach has problems over time and is stiff to operate and they do leak fluid. A Lot of OB cables suffer the engine tilt syndrome...cables are like paper clips, there are only so many times you can bend them like that before they break.
This thing is like driving a video game. You have to increase the steering resistance if you desire more friction.
Again, I was skeptical and somewhat negative on all this fly by wire stuff but I am a believer now after making a few long runs with them, my next rig will have this stuff. I am sure all the other ob makers will follow suit. I notice now that Volvo is doing a very similar thing on their new diesels too.

Verado's do not use fly by wire for the steering. The steering is a hydraulic with a power assist from a electric pump.

The throttle is fly by wire thou, and is slick. Once you run one you will never go back to (Fred Flintstone)cable actuated shifting/throttle again.


Mike

What MTC said it's corrosion in the tilt tube, it was an every year thing for me until I installed a Steersman.

http://www.steersman.com/html/whatitdoes.html

I loosen the cable and then bash it through the tilt tube with mallet against wood. You may need to chase it through the tilt tube with a dowel or metal rod. Make sure you clean the inside of the tube good, I used a 12ga shotgun brush on a drill, then install the Steersman. Do not, do not force the helm or you will be buying a new one of those....how do I know well let's just say lesson learned :hee:

Just wanted to say thanks for this great pc of advice. I used the shotgun brush, cleaned the tilt tube and greased, now its smooth as butter. I thought I needed to replace the cables too, but its all set now
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