View Full Version : Bronco Issues
Gunpowder 05-06-2009, 10:42 PM Hi I have a 96' Ford Bronco XLT 351HP and it has begun to stall out on me after driving for 20 mins or so when I start to slow down. It will idle reel low and then just turn off on me... I have had replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not seem to help the problem. It stalls more when it is wet out too... Wondering if you guys have any information on this as my mechanic seems to be scratching his head on this one.
Mike
Raven 05-07-2009, 05:01 AM that says(suggests) fuel starvation
check all fuel filters !
say you had a tiny little piece of junk blocking
your low speed jet in your carb but only halfway
that could do it.... also determine if this happens
when your fuel tank is half / full only,,,
as this happen's to my wifes car... which is the pick up
tube inside her tank....
or
try slipping it into neutral when ya come up to a stop
ok , then use both feet to experiment
left on brake and idle it up faster with your right foot
to keep it running at a higher RPM
thats the gas side of it...
on the electrical side
battery issues are a possibility ...have the mechanic check your charging system out too
or....
try drying your distributor cap with a hand held hair dryer...
an old truck of mind required that to run good when it was rainy
Raven 05-07-2009, 05:04 AM make sure there isn't a mouse nest inside your air filter
you'd be surprised how fast they can build one
in a warm engine ....
JohnR 05-07-2009, 06:40 AM If it is wet, get a small spray bottle and sptiz distributor cap & wires - see if that makes a difference. We've had a lot of moisture lately.
Go to f150online.com and http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php and check the forums - pretty helpful people.
Swimmer 05-07-2009, 12:22 PM I am wondering if it relates to the fuel pumps in the tank/s. They had a recall on the problem when I owned mine. I had to pay to get pumps replaced. Frd came out with a five dollar fixit plastic piece.
1996 if it has a mass air sensor, it also has an IAC Idle Air control, they go fairly often. If your mechanic has a decent scan tool, he can check the IAC cycles against the desired IAC cycles. If not, I have all of the tools to do it, where are you located? I specalise in driveability and vehicle electrical. And deisel:tooth:
Edit, I see you list a location as Mashpee, Im in yarmouth
Catalitic converter might be choked and has failed.
Adam_777 05-07-2009, 04:48 PM Check your canniffler pin .They need occasional lube.I'm a diesel guy and am of no help here.I'd check fuel pump wiring front to back.Fuel pumps don't last forever and can go intermittent before complete failure.I see pumps on smaller diesel engines go rather quickly like a year or two.I'd hook up with Gary I'm sure he'll point you in the right direction.Besides Cannifler pins and muffler bearings I've heard they had bad thermostatic isotopical rheostat ground juntions but there's a reset switch for that in the bottom of your glove compartment.Big red switch labeled TIR RESET.
Gunpowder 05-08-2009, 06:52 AM thanks guys for the input... i have it in upstate ny with me at school, and i have no idea how im gonna get it home if it is not fixed (MA). i cant even drive 45 minutes straight with it not shutting off and losing power steering which is the scariest part... that thing is difficult enough to steer with the truck functioning "properly". ill bring this page to my mechanic up here and asked him if he did any of the things u guys brought up. thanks again
mike
Raven 05-08-2009, 07:03 AM or their hitch
they are great...
drive it down here in tow.
just a thought...
Raven 05-08-2009, 07:13 AM sometimes you just have to experiment Mike
like bypassing the air filter by creating a bigger
gap = just to see how it runs like that to help pin point the problem
check little stuff too ........
like: is their insufficient water in your battery? it creates HAVOC
also
those see thru spark checkers are worth their weight in gold imho
when you hook it up and see orange instead of blue spark :humpty:
Raven 05-08-2009, 07:18 AM i once had a gas tank ok
that was rusting away
on the inside...
so no mater how often you
cleaned out your carburetor
or fuel filters ect.
flakes of rust kept entering the system
so i installed two inline see thru fuel filters
and i could do quick changes on the road
until i finally had the tank replaced which wasn't
that cheap.. almost 4 bills.
keep hunting :devil2:
Adam_777 05-08-2009, 06:11 PM Penske will give you a deal if you haggle with them.Good time to get a rental for cheap money to haul her home.BTW after it shuts down how long before it restarts and does it run rough after the restart.My buddy has an 02 F150 that has had running problems.There was so much rust in his filter from his tank rusting it kept fouling plugs and injectors.Alot of the newer fuel pumps I've been having problems with are external and will idle alright and take off just the same but under a load they can't keep up allowing pockets of air in the system only under a load like highway driving.Clean your battery terminals and ground real good also.I've seen loose grounds cause serious problems and makes diagnosing problems like finding a needle in a haystack.My girl had a car that would stall at random times for no reason.I went through the car with a fine tooth comb only to find the a number of bad grounds.The longer I left the key on the ground @ the battery would get hot and start to smoke.I found all the grounds wire brushed them and the surfaces they ground to and never had the problem again.I've also had random shutting down problems with remote starts.Sometimes the smallest amount of info can help your mechanic diagnose it that much easier.Like if it's hard starting after stalling.Stalls more if it's wet is another thing pointing me to something electrical.Keep us posted on any progress and good luck.
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