Need opinions and facts.

My original loadrite roller trailer (15 years old) has had it, not worth fixing all the parts that are bad. Plus it is a bit undersized.

So I priced a new roller trailer locally with more rollers and higher load capacity. Pretty expensive. So the dealer said if I only use it for storage, why rollers? Go to bunk, (much cheaper and less maintanence) plus he called it a "drive on".

So how drive on are they? I would imagine it would have to go pretty deep to get the boat all the way to the bow roller. What happens to the bottom paint? Can I launch easily and by myself?

What do you guys have/Suggest?

It's typically discouraged at most ramps to "drive on" or "power load", however I have had 2 bunk trailers and they are defintely great to "float on".

How big is your boat? With my previous 19.5' and now 21.5' boats I sink the trailer until about 4' of the bunks are out of the water. If I am next to a dock I can usually walk the boat right on to the bunks, hop down, connect the strap to the bow eye and crank her right up. I have the bunks aligned just right to center the boat on the trailer. If there is no dock then I'll generally drive the boat part ways on to the trailer, hop in to the water and finish up as above.

The float on style trailers typically have a longer tongue which let you sink the trailer deeper if required. I have had no problems loading or unloading at launch ramps from Saco, ME to Falmouth.

I have plenty of friends with roller trailers and they are all generally envious of my sweet aluminum float on style bunk trailer.

The float-ons are longer so you get them out a little further on the ramp. When I replace mine, I'm going with one.

My bunk trailer is so easy to load my 20'McKee Craft, I'm out of the water in minutes, I'd never go back to a roller style. Guideons help as well.

My bunk trailer for a 215 Triumph is piece of cake to load/unload even by oneself. Just have to learn how deep to place the trailer to float boat off or on. I've now been to many different ramps and have had no problems, even at lowest of tides.

The float-ons are longer so you get them out a little further on the ramp. When I replace mine, I'm going with one.

I heard that and wonder that the length might be an issue getting the rig into the driveway, even though its only twice a year.
The street is tight without parked cars.

I've been doing some research and checked some prices.
Now looking at a Venture aluminum bunk style.
Still not sure.

I'll agree with the "Bunk is Better". I had a roller trailer and it was possible to get the boat off-center all the time.

With a bunk trailer with forward/centering bunks or boards, the boat is impossible to load off-center. It is so easy to both load and unload everywhere I've been and I've used no less than 10 different ramps at all tide stages with no issues whatsoever.

No problems with the bottom paint either as the bunk-carpet does not wear it off. I keep my boat on a dock and trailer at the ends of each season.

Aluminum bunk trailer with torsion axles, Kodiak Stainless Steel rotors and calipers on both axles, cypress bunks, 2 speed winch, Sierra Dry Launch lights and guide poles, awesome!

Full bunk for me in 2 years, Bassy has it right.

I heard that and wonder that the length might be an issue getting the rig into the driveway, even though its only twice a year.
The street is tight without parked cars.

I've been doing some research and checked some prices.
Now looking at a Venture aluminum bunk style.
Still not sure.

I just bought that model for a 26' SeaPro. It was very easy to load, the bunks also came with a plastic type cover that made it very easy to slide the boat on. And on the plus side when I saw the trailer and I was impressed with how much trailer I got for the money.

I'll agree with the "Bunk is Better". I had a roller trailer and it was possible to get the boat off-center all the time.

With a bunk trailer with forward/centering bunks or boards, the boat is impossible to load off-center. It is so easy to both load and unload everywhere I've been and I've used no less than 10 different ramps at all tide stages with no issues whatsoever.

No problems with the bottom paint either as the bunk-carpet does not wear it off. I keep my boat on a dock and trailer at the ends of each season.

Aluminum bunk trailer with torsion axles, Kodiak Stainless Steel rotors and calipers on both axles, cypress bunks, 2 speed winch, Sierra Dry Launch lights and guide poles, awesome!

What brand is the trailer?

What I've done with bunk trailers is once you learn the optimum depth to dunk at, I marked the water level on the trailer fenders. Then I placed reflective tape at that water line. This way when you back down, just stop at the tape line and you're good to go. The reflective tape is for night launches. The tail/backup lights from your truck will light up the tape so you can spot it in your rear views.

Van - I got my trailer (for 18 foot whaler) at coastline trailers in east falmouth - I believe he has a website. good guy and carries different brands and styles....reasonable $$$$....I love my bunk trailer - easy on and easy off even in shallow waters around cotuit, poppy, waquoit.....

I have an ACE trailer, I drove from MA to FL as I had bought a new boat in 2007 and drove to Tampa to get the trailer, then across to Ft. Lauderdale to get the boat.

I saved a ton on both the trailer and the boat, even after the road-trip.

Oh yeah, get all stainless steel hardware/fasteners and don't forget the accu-lube hubs. Pump the grease in and it flows all the way out the back of the bearings out to the front. The bearings will last about forever with this system, fresh grease all the time and no more guessing with bearing buddies which only get grease to the front bearings anyway.

Once one learns how much they need to sink the trailer at the ramps, you will look like a pro everywhere you go. I get my boat in and out myself in less than 1/2 the time roller guys do with hardly any winching.

The thing with aluminum trailers is that almost every aluminum I-Beam is the same as they don't vary much, it is how it is put together that is the main difference.

Also, make sure that the bunk carpet does not wrap around the bottom of the bunk as that will help the carpet and bunk-wood drier/last longer.

Get a strap for the winch and ditch the cable, cables suck.

Van - I got my trailer (for 18 foot whaler) at coastline trailers in east falmouth - I believe he has a website. good guy and carries different brands and styles....reasonable $$$$....I love my bunk trailer - easy on and easy off even in shallow waters around cotuit, poppy, waquoit.....

I'll check them out, thanks.

I did more checking and kinda like this one.
It gives great evenly distributed support.

Load Rite Tandem Axle SA Bunk (http://www.loadrite.com/Boat_Trailers/SA_Bunk/Tandem_Axle_SA_Bunk/91/)

My opinion, the only down side of a bunk trailer is you need to set it up and fit it to your particular boat initially.
As other said, full bunks support the boat better.
Also, touching up bottom paint is much easier on bunk than a roller trailer

Right on Raider Ronnie, one has to set-up the bunks OR the rollers for the boat the first time.

Done deal...

Ordered the one in the link today . Tandem Loadrite 4 bunk.
I'll have to drive the boat to the dealer on the old trailer (wish me luck !!!). It would be a bad time for it to fail.

They will sling my boat, pull the old one out, adjust the new trailer, and set her down on it. Drive home in safety...

The 4 bunks on it tilt and swivel.
That will provide super support and have less maintanence.
Yes should be easier to touch up the paint too.

Thanks all.......V :):):)

I have had several roller trailers and now a large bunk and I have to say that rollers are nice in certain conditions and if you have a good roller trailer you the boat will always seeks a dead center position. I think if you skimp on the number of rollers and don't have a trailer that is set up right you could have a problems with alignment.
I am new to bunks. IMO it is a lot easier to become off center on a bunk, but that said, I think once it is on the trailer, I think the load is spread out over move surface area with less point load pressures on the bottom. However you really need to get that baby in the water deep because you can rub the bottom hard with the carpeted bunks and I would think effectively sand down the bottom if you use it often. If you have a shallow ramp and big boat it could be a rough haul out. I am just getting use to it. I watched the previous owner launch and pull the boat (out of one of the nicest launching facilities I have ever seen) and it was painless and quick and he never touched the crank. Put it in gear and the boat slid up up the crank effortlessly, clipped it up and drove off.

Both work, bunks are cheaper and have less moving parts. I plan to put a few wide rollers along the keel just to make me feel better and ensure centering.

Van...good luck with it. IMO the worst part about trailering is the maintenance of the hubs/breaks/rotors/bearings with seawater and air...I wish someone made composite wheels and breaks for trailers that didn't corrode. I think my last trailer had 60 miles on it and the wheels froze to the breaks and I had a wash-out kit and it still corrodes.:wall: Seawater+ air+ time+steel = nightmare.

Am I the only one who likes roller trailers? I have one of each and it is a breeze to load my 19' boat by myself. Just get it up close to the rear rollers and winch away. Always goes on straight and very easy. Goes off even easier and on flat ramps you don't have to get the tow vehicle wet. My small boat has bunks and is always on crooked but being only 14 foot it is not a problem to move out of the water. To each his own I guess.

Am I the only one who likes roller trailers? I have one of each and it is a breeze to load my 19' boat by myself. Just get it up close to the rear rollers and winch away. Always goes on straight and very easy. Goes off even easier and on flat ramps you don't have to get the tow vehicle wet. My small boat has bunks and is always on crooked but being only 14 foot it is not a problem to move out of the water. To each his own I guess.

I'm with you Paul. I got a roller with a 21fter and I'm in and out of the water in 5 mins with another guy, 10 mins by myself, always centered.

My buddy has a 20ft lund with bunk and if he didnt have those pvc guide poles, it'd never be centered.

I bought mine as a package, not sure what'd I do if I needed a new one.

I have had several roller trailers and now a large bunk and I have to say that rollers are nice in certain conditions and if you have a good roller trailer you the boat will always seeks a dead center position. I think if you skimp on the number of rollers and don't have a trailer that is set up right you could have a problems with alignment.
I am new to bunks. IMO it is a lot easier to become off center on a bunk, but that said, I think once it is on the trailer, I think the load is spread out over move surface area with less point load pressures on the bottom. However you really need to get that baby in the water deep because you can rub the bottom hard with the carpeted bunks and I would think effectively sand down the bottom if you use it often. If you have a shallow ramp and big boat it could be a rough haul out. I am just getting use to it. I watched the previous owner launch and pull the boat (out of one of the nicest launching facilities I have ever seen) and it was painless and quick and he never touched the crank. Put it in gear and the boat slid up up the crank effortlessly, clipped it up and drove off.

Both work, bunks are cheaper and have less moving parts. I plan to put a few wide rollers along the keel just to make me feel better and ensure centering.

Van...good luck with it. IMO the worst part about trailering is the maintenance of the hubs/breaks/rotors/bearings with seawater and air...I wish someone made composite wheels and breaks for trailers that didn't corrode. I think my last trailer had 60 miles on it and the wheels froze to the breaks and I had a wash-out kit and it still corrodes.:wall: Seawater+ air+ time+steel = nightmare.


Agreed... I have always had roller trailers, starting in 1967 with my first boat. That was a tilt trailer (remember those?) Now that I am in the slip, its just once in once out. Mainly used for storage. It will provide much better support. The roller trailer I got with the "package" 14 years ago, was undersized, no brakes, single axle and only 20 rollers. I could see the hull bow where some of the single rollers are located. I think I made the right decision. I should be able to get it deep enough to get it on squarely (I HOPE)...

I am done wth them things, bunks and drive on see ya

Posted by Sandman:

Both work, bunks are cheaper and have less moving parts. I plan to put a few wide rollers along the keel just to make me feel better and ensure centering.

Van...good luck with it. IMO the worst part about trailering is the maintenance of the hubs/breaks/rotors/bearings with seawater and air...I wish someone made composite wheels and breaks for trailers that didn't corrode. I think my last trailer had 60 miles on it and the wheels froze to the breaks and I had a wash-out kit and it still corrodes. Seawater+ air+ time+steel = nightmare

I like that idea of a couple of rollers to keep in on center. If I have issues that will work.

Also while researching this whole subject, I found a manufacturer that said TO avoid freezing of the pads to the discs while in storage, wash well, let them dry, then spray paint the discs right up to the pads. That will prevent sticking and corrosion and the paint will burn off within minutes and not cause any lack of braking power. Of course NEVER use grease or nevaseez or wd-40. I might try that paint trick

Bunks vs Rollers.
I think the ramp plays the biggest part. A well designed ramp with a good down angle and you are all set with either.

A friend and I launched one day at a almost flat ramp low tide. I rolled my boat off. Back wheels just touching the water. He had bunks and had to put half his truck into the water to get deep enough for us to pull it off.

If you only trailer to GOOD designed ramps, it's never going to be an issue.

I like to get around and I trailer all the time. I prefer rollers just for that one time at a bad ramp. But if I had to buy a new trailer I think the difference in cost might push me to bunks.

RI has no good ramps that I've been able to find! Launched from under the Sakonnet Bridge a couple times, once at lowest tide of the year, with no problems using bunk trailer.

Have had a roller SeaLion for 17 yrs, drive on in about 3 minutes loaded and out of the ramp area. Launch is a little longer about 5 minutes. Have to get engines warmed up.

More on the subject of trailers...

As I understand it most states have a maximum legal width of 8' 6" that you can tow without a permit. Say I have a boat with 10" 9" + guideposts....and I want a permit to trailer my boat to and from the water each season...where do I even go to get one? The RMV?

More on the subject of trailers...

As I understand it most states have a maximum legal width of 8' 6" that you can tow without a permit. Say I have a boat with 10" 9" + guideposts....and I want a permit to trailer my boat to and from the water each season...where do I even go to get one? The RMV?

Try this:
How to apply for tr#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g permits.
MA Highway Department
508-624-4377 or 508-624-0936 Phone
508-408-9629 Fax

Permit is good for 5 days and costs $15.00

Massachusettes State Tr#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g Permit Regulations - oversize shipping and transport. (http://www.wideloadshipping.com/html/massachusettes_state_tr#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g_.html)

Did decide on the hybrid. It has 4 bunks, but they tilt and swivel like rollers in both directions to conform to the hull (kinda hard to see in the pics). It is very well supported now. Even got brakes, which work awesome.

Thanks go out to my buddy Teddy that turned me on to a great dealer. SUPER nice people and they fitted her on there,,, no extra charge. Showed me all the functions, and sent me on my way smilin':).

It has that 5th wire which cuts out the brakes when backing up. Also works super.....

So, thanks for all the input, really helped me make a decision.
We will see how she comes off in the spring....

When is that anyway???????????:soon::confused::confused:

Damn that is shiny! :)

Good luck with it!!

Surge breaks with the extra wire tied to the reverse lights to over ride when backing up.

I told people I had that and they looked at me like I had 2 heads.

I was always told unplug my lights so you don't have hot bulbs under water.
After my lights leaked and fell apart, I replaced them with LED lights. All sealed and have been on for 3 years without a problem. back them into the salt water at least 30 times a year.

Surge breaks with the extra wire tied to the reverse lights to over ride when backing up.

I told people I had that and they looked at me like I had 2 heads.

I was always told unplug my lights so you don't have hot bulbs under water.
After my lights leaked and fell apart, I replaced them with LED lights. All sealed and have been on for 3 years without a problem. back them into the salt water at least 30 times a year.

I tried backing up a little further in the driveway after I had disconnected the lighting hardness, the trailer WOULD NOT MOVE....Harder I accelerated, the tighter the brakes got. The back up light activates a solenoid that cuts out the hydraulics so its moves easily in reverse. There is also a pin you can put in to stop the actuator from moving and that will lock out the brakes too. Only for use at the ramp.

As for the lights, the old trailer had the upside down cup (?) type. They worked for all these years. (I don't know why they changed that style) the new ones are sealed. But now that I dunk only twice a year spring and the fall, should not be a problem. HOPEFULLY.....:smash:

I also have a pin that I can put into the tounge to stop it from slidding backwords. Just in case you need a mechanical override.

..... the new ones are sealed. But now that I dunk only twice a year spring and the fall, should not be a problem. HOPEFULLY.....

They will either stay sealed or leak right away. I had a set that leaked after only a couple dunks. Now I run a bead of silicon seal on all seams. That is easier that putting them on-off and running for a refund.

They will either stay sealed or leak right away. I had a set that leaked after only a couple dunks. Now I run a bead of silicon seal on all seams. That is easier that putting them on-off and running for a refund.

Good idea, you put the bead along the edge of the lens?
I could do it now that they are new and clean, and it might hold better.

Good idea, you put the bead along the edge of the lens?
I could do it now that they are new and clean, and it might hold better.

I put anywhere I think there is a seam, yes especially the edge of the lens and where any wires enter the housing.

I put anywhere I think there is a seam, yes especially the edge of the lens and where any wires enter the housing.

:btu: :btu: :btu:

Nice trailer Van.


I think I really got it down this year. This spring I took my wife and daughter out. We got to the ramp, I set everything up. Had my wife and daughter on the dock, and gave my wife a line. I backed to the water, released the safety and cable, backed about 4' and stopped the wife pulled it to the dock and tied her off. There were lots of people around, the usual judging panel, and those in line to pull out. When I came down to the tie up my wife told me that the crusty old guy on the bench said he was impressed. Pulling it out can be a pain at times, but I readjusted the guideons and it seems to be loading better.

One of the best people I ever saw launch and retrieve a boat all by himself with no assistance was Gary Corsetti. We could come into a ramp and both sides would have lines. He would back between em, and load her up and pull out before the guys that had already been tied up before us were even backed down.