My 11' x 13' lure shop is framed-out in the basement. An electrician is coming today to add a sub-panel and to wire the outlets & lighting. I have my new Jet 1014I, a 1hp dust collector, a 17" drill press and a mitre saw. A 14" bandsaw and an air filtration unit are on order. I still have to pick up a belt/disc sander, a grinder to sharpen lathe tools, a lead smelter for jigs and lure weights and a Vega (down the road). I'm going to pass on a table saw for now and just rip my stock with the bandsaw.

It's been a lot of fun getting set-up. I'm really excited. Usually the winter is just a long drawn-out wait for the bass to return, but I'm really looking forward to the time I have to build. I figure I'll be finished with the basement and ready to turn by the first week of January.

I have a good friend in NH who turns and locally sells his spooks, poppers, pikies & dannys, so I feel I have a little bit of a headstart in tool selection, building technique & safety.

I'm going to initially stick to making pencils/skippers throughout the winter as I learn the differences in wood characteristics, weighting, manipulating action, etc.

I like pencils with these types of action:
1. A model that can whippy-stick well in a wind-blown chop with minimal nose-diving.
2. A model that walks-the-dog like a spook at a slow/medium clip in calm water.
3. A model that is a compromise between the two (something like a Gibbs).

I'm wondering if anyone has any beginner's advice in terms of wood type for pencils in general, and possibly for these desired actions in particular.

Thanks,

Eric

Eric just a curious question so we know where you stand as far as tool expertise? Have you any experience on a lathe? I ask because when I started I had none.:)

You are going to learn that it is very hard to improve on anything Stan Gibbs built. You will find the same for Don Musso and Danny Pichney.

Start with the Gibbs design ( 2.75 oz is a good one and one of the very best bass plugs ever built), from there you will find that if you lessen the tail weight (or move it forward in the plug) to get the plug floating at more of an angle, you will get an easier and longer walk the dog action. If you widen the waist and increase the weight, you will get a plug that will slap a lot but not glide much (I don't like this...but bluefish do).

Wood choice isn't as important as weight/width/length/float angle. Eastern White Pine, sugar pine, basswood, AYC, and presumably red cedar all work fine. AYC is the densest. Soft woods will dent if used in the canal.

Some step drills are very useful for tail weighting plugs on center. Or drill the weight hole first and finish through drilling from there.

If you have no lathe experience I would recommend simply turning some shapes to get a feel for the tools, possibly find a book about turning so you can get an idea of the proper technique. If you have experience try turning some known plugs as Numbscull suggests to get a feel for the process and an understanding of form and function.....also test your finished plugs (prototypes)prior to the finishing proess to make sure they perform as you wish. Its best to test them in the water naked to be sure they do as you wish prior to sealing, priming, painting so you do not waste alot of time on a plug that does not give you the proper action. I presume you also have fishing experience? You need this to know what you may be looking for in a plugs action? You don't speak much of your experience so its difficult to advise?

Pictures,,,,

Eric just a curious question so we know where you stand as far as tool expertise? Have you any experience on a lathe? I ask because when I started I had none.:)

Minimal. I've turned a couple of plugs on my buddy's lathe, but I'm going to have to have him by my side once everything is together and I'm ready to begin. I don't plan on turning anything before that out of fear of doing something ill-advised or downright dangerous.

You are going to learn that it is very hard to improve on anything Stan Gibbs built. You will find the same for Don Musso and Danny Pichney.

Start with the Gibbs design ( 2.75 oz is a good one and one of the very best bass plugs ever built), from there you will find that if you lessen the tail weight (or move it forward in the plug) to get the plug floating at more of an angle, you will get an easier and longer walk the dog action. If you widen the waist and increase the weight, you will get a plug that will slap a lot but not glide much (I don't like this...but bluefish do).

Wood choice isn't as important as weight/width/length/float angle. Eastern White Pine, sugar pine, basswood, AYC, and presumably red cedar all work fine. AYC is the densest. Soft woods will dent if used in the canal.

Some step drills are very useful for tail weighting plugs on center. Or drill the weight hole first and finish through drilling from there.

Hi numbskull -- good to see you on here. I appreciate all the practical advice.

When the shop is done I'm going to pick up a small quantity of each of the wood types you mentioned. I'll probably buy more of the cheapest so I can burn through some stock while I'm learning the basics.

My friend makes nice, thin pencils with a great walk/glide I'd like to emulate in different sizes. They wobble somewhat on the cast, but I guess that's the price you pay for that action. They still outcast a spook of the same size and they catch some excellent fish.

I like Striper Sniper pencils for whippy-sticking, but I wish they'd cast better (at least the 2 oz)...I'd really like to build a pencil that casts true and thrashes well at distance in a chop.

I hear you about attempting to improve on a Gibbs. One of my favorite just-for-fun daytime lures is a 1 oz Gibbs pencil. Casts extremely well and catches fish of all sizes. I'd like to build a 3/4 oz version of this. I'm also looking forward to putting better belly swivels in pencils of this size.

You are going to learn that it is very hard to improve on anything Stan Gibbs built. You will find the same for Don Musso and Danny Pichney.

Start with the Gibbs design ( 2.75 oz is a good one and one of the very best bass plugs ever built), from there you will find that if you lessen the tail weight (or move it forward in the plug) to get the plug floating at more of an angle, you will get an easier and longer walk the dog action. If you widen the waist and increase the weight, you will get a plug that will slap a lot but not glide much (I don't like this...but bluefish do).

Wood choice isn't as important as weight/width/length/float angle. Eastern White Pine, sugar pine, basswood, AYC, and presumably red cedar all work fine. AYC is the densest. Soft woods will dent if used in the canal.

Some step drills are very useful for tail weighting plugs on center. Or drill the weight hole first and finish through drilling from there.

Good to see you, numbskull. Thank you for the advice.

I'm going to pick up a little of each of the wood you mentioned; more of the cheapest stuff so I can burn through some stock as I learn.

If you have no lathe experience I would recommend simply turning some shapes to get a feel for the tools, possibly find a book about turning so you can get an idea of the proper technique. If you have experience try turning some known plugs as Numbscull suggests to get a feel for the process and an understanding of form and function.....also test your finished plugs (prototypes)prior to the finishing proess to make sure they perform as you wish. Its best to test them in the water naked to be sure they do as you wish prior to sealing, priming, painting so you do not waste alot of time on a plug that does not give you the proper action. I presume you also have fishing experience? You need this to know what you may be looking for in a plugs action? You don't speak much of your experience so its difficult to advise?

Aside from my friend's direct help, I'll probably take a lathe class at my local Woodcraft store.

I'm going to stick to pencils/skippers at first until I get the basics down and am able to repetitively (not perfectly) build pencils that I would choose over ones I would buy (tall order, I know).

I plan on doing a lot of testing. I have distinct actions in mind so I feel like I have clear goals (at least for this style lure).

I have about 13 year's experience striper fishing.

AYC and Red cedar are pretty allergenic. Pine and Basswood are good to start with and very easy to turn.

Learn to use a skew, the rest is simple.
3 tools only. Roughing gouge, parting tool, and 1+ inch skew.
4 sets of calibers.
A long tool rest.

for pencils, I like red cedar
be careful the dust is real bad
you could seal the red cedar with epoxy and it will make it harder.
port orford cedar is fine also

You can use a handheld belt sander to sand what you need to start and also use it to sharpen your lathe tools. You can melt lead in a dollar store ladle with a propane torch to start. Use maple to make some weight molds, if you find some that you will make tons of then a fancy one would be in order. I agree with numbskull and would also suggest that you take your favorite plugs and copy them to start. That way you have one that works perfect to use as a guide for how yours work. You can turn out a lot of stuff really quick, but then again bluefish need plugs too.

AYC and Red cedar are pretty allergenic. Pine and Basswood are good to start with and very easy to turn.

Learn to use a skew, the rest is simple.
3 tools only. Roughing gouge, parting tool, and 1+ inch skew.
4 sets of calibers.
A long tool rest.

Thanks. What is a caliber?

I met my friend at Woodcraft tonight and got some Sorby turning tools: A 3/4" roughing gouge, a 3/16" diamond parting tool & a 3/4" skew. He also mentioned these are all he ever uses for plugs.

I ordered a 12" tool rest and the 10" Vega duplicator.

I also brought home a 17" Jet drill press, a Jet wet grinder and a Rikon 4" belt/6" disc sander...I'm all done obtaining the power equipment (though still waiting for the bandsaw & air filtration unit).

All I have to do is finish the actual shop and I'm ready to begin. I'm sheetrock-ing the ceiling this weekend. Things are looking good for having it completely finished New Year's weekend.

I think he meant calipers = a measuring device

You can use a handheld belt sander to sand what you need to start and also use it to sharpen your lathe tools. You can melt lead in a dollar store ladle with a propane torch to start. Use maple to make some weight molds, if you find some that you will make tons of then a fancy one would be in order. I agree with numbskull and would also suggest that you take your favorite plugs and copy them to start. That way you have one that works perfect to use as a guide for how yours work. You can turn out a lot of stuff really quick, but then again bluefish need plugs too.

Thanks for the advice, Pete (Slipknot too). I guess I'll be starting with the Gibbs pencil design and exploring from there.

I appreciate all the starting advice from everyone.

I think he meant calipers = a measuring device

Ah, I see.

Numbskull: Why do you recommend four sets of calipers?

that is so you can speed things up a bit by keeping them set at strategic places on the plug body so copying is quicker when you check those spots as you turn.
It's a process.

On the beach/rivers I like gliding pencils . but usually opt for a spook .. although my best river PP this year was a 80's factory loaded 5.25" Cordell .. .. In the canal I like bouncing pencils (hawg hunter style weighting).. I call it "The trying to get the hell out of the water " look .. cast like missles too ..

By calipers I mean simple mechanical ones. You will set one for your tail size, one for your head size (on swimmers) and one for the widest spot on the plug (maybe a fourth for some other area on the plug).

You will turn a cylinder with your gouge, then use your parting tool and calipers to set the 3 or 4 crucial dimensions. You will rough down close to final shape with your gouge, connect the dots with your skew, touch up with sandpaper, and start another body.

I think a 1 1/4 " skew is easier to use than a 3/4 " one, a 3/4 " roughing gouge is a good tool, although I use a 1 1/2" gouge more often (both work and the 3/4 better for final roughing). Get a simple square sided parting tool, it is better for flat ends and faster (more stable on the tool rest than the narrower diamond tool) unless you need a thin profile for detail work.

A duplicator is a mixed blessing.

Hey Eric, this thread is useless without pictures of the construction and of the finished product, that is the tool shop. Take some pics and upload.

that is so you can speed things up a bit by keeping them set at strategic places on the plug body so copying is quicker when you check those spots as you turn.
It's a process.

I understand now -- thank you.

Hey Eric, this thread is useless without pictures of the construction and of the finished product, that is the tool shop. Take some pics and upload.

I'll snap a few shots this weekend of the construction and put them up.

By calipers I mean simple mechanical ones. You will set one for your tail size, one for your head size (on swimmers) and one for the widest spot on the plug (maybe a fourth for some other area on the plug).

You will turn a cylinder with your gouge, then use your parting tool and calipers to set the 3 or 4 crucial dimensions. You will rough down close to final shape with your gouge, connect the dots with your skew, touch up with sandpaper, and start another body.

I think a 1 1/4 " skew is easier to use than a 3/4 " one, a 3/4 " roughing gouge is a good tool, although I use a 1 1/2" gouge more often (both work and the 3/4 better for final roughing). Get a simple square sided parting tool, it is better for flat ends and faster (more stable on the tool rest than the narrower diamond tool) unless you need a thin profile for detail work.

A duplicator is a mixed blessing.


Do you use a 1 1/4" skew for small plugs too?

What would you say the cons are to a duplicator?

Get a duplicator later, learn how to turn by hand first! It helps to know how to turn by hand and you will need to turn by hand to make your master bodies for templates. Don't try to skip on the learning curve.:)

Do you use a 1 1/4" skew for small plugs too?

What would you say the cons are to a duplicator?

A skew only cuts with the bottom half of it's width, and only a 1/16" section of the edge is in touch with the wood as it cuts no matter how narrow or wide the blade. The wider tool gives you more control as you swing/lift the handle. 3/4" is OK, but wider is better unless you are doing fine detail work (which plugs don't require).

The other VERY important thing about skews, and something that took me years to realize/find out, is that they need to be sharpened with a flat bevel.......not hollow ground on a wheel and then given a secondary bevel like most other tools. The skew is held steady by three points of contact; the tool rest, the edge, and the bevel which rides on the work behind the cut. Get that geometry wrong and spectacular stuff happens......very, very quickly (hence the face mask).

Duplicators require patterns. Patterns take time to make so once you make one you tend to get locked into that shape. When you turn freehand you will find that the shape you start with often evolves as you go. Evolution of what you are making leaves opportunity for improvement and learning. Once you have a shape you are sure you like then duplicators are fine and take a lot of the tedium out of turning multiples.

By calipers I mean simple mechanical ones. You will set one for your tail size, one for your head size (on swimmers) and one for the widest spot on the plug (maybe a fourth for some other area on the plug).



I have to say this is a great tip. I only use one set and I have to stop to
adjust all the time. Time to run out and buy some more.
Do you color code or label the calipers some way? I know when i get multiple ones its gonna be hard not to mix them up.

I put a piece of tape on my tool rest and put marks on it for end of plug and major/minor diameters. All my blanks are the same length and if they are center drilled I do that first. This makes it so you can set up for drilling and drill them all right/wrong at once. Make the blank a cylinder, use the skew to define the ends, gouge again to get close to shape, skew to clean up, sand. I usually lay the plug I am making or a picture behind the lathe so I can match the curves. Depends on how good your eye is if that will work for you.

Masking tape and layout marks on the tool rest is a major time saver.

Get a duplicator later, learn how to turn by hand first! It helps to know how to turn by hand and you will need to turn by hand to make your master bodies for templates. Don't try to skip on the learning curve.:)

Yep....:kewl: thats part of the fun.

I do use my duplicator most of the time now but I still use the tools to make new designs and once you find a new design that works pissah then you can slap it on the duplicator and make a template.

When Plugfest rolls around....ain't much on the table there that was created with a duplicator.

I agree about turing plugs before you start using a duplicator. I would rather turn plugs by just using tools and not the duplicator. To me it is much more enjoyable than just ripping a body on a duplicator. There are videos on turning wood on youtube if you need a visual. Good luck and enjoy.

I am in the opposite camp. I only turn with a duplicator. I make my patterns first then I turn them. I adjust my patterns to what I want the plug to look like. I have never turned a plug with hand tools in my life. I got plenty of hand tools just never interested me to use them. I also have been running lathes for 30 yeas so I don't find anything really fun about turning. I just want it off the lathe and on to the other, fun, aspects. Just want to let you know there are many ways to make plugs and I am glad to hear many find turning to be fun. Keep at it and always keep it fun.

Get a duplicator later, learn how to turn by hand first! It helps to know how to turn by hand and you will need to turn by hand to make your master bodies for templates. Don't try to skip on the learning curve.:)

Thanks, I agree -- I think I'm going to keep it in the box for now.

A skew only cuts with the bottom half of it's width, and only a 1/16" section of the edge is in touch with the wood as it cuts no matter how narrow or wide the blade. The wider tool gives you more control as you swing/lift the handle. 3/4" is OK, but wider is better unless you are doing fine detail work (which plugs don't require).

The other VERY important thing about skews, and something that took me years to realize/find out, is that they need to be sharpened with a flat bevel.......not hollow ground on a wheel and then given a secondary bevel like most other tools. The skew is held steady by three points of contact; the tool rest, the edge, and the bevel which rides on the work behind the cut. Get that geometry wrong and spectacular stuff happens......very, very quickly (hence the face mask).

Duplicators require patterns. Patterns take time to make so once you make one you tend to get locked into that shape. When you turn freehand you will find that the shape you start with often evolves as you go. Evolution of what you are making leaves opportunity for improvement and learning. Once you have a shape you are sure you like then duplicators are fine and take a lot of the tedium out of turning multiples.

This is great information, numbskull -- I appreciate it.

And thanks to everyone for all the advice and viewpoints so far. I'm really digging the generosity on this site.

I'm cutting out of work to go to a specialty woodstore a few miles away to pick-up some pine and maybe some basswood. I'm still a couple weeks away from turning, but I wanted to take a look. My friend buys his wood here -- he's shopped the entire area for the best prices.

I don't suppose you can get any pine of appropriate quality at one of the box stores(?) My friend says most of their stock isn't clean enough for plug building.

Couple other things I've been told that I want to put out there for opinions:

Don't bother trying poplar for lures (splits?)
Maple is more likely to split than birch when I start turning sinking needles.
Don't take anyone's opinion of lure building as gospel - experiment. BUT, assume probably all safety warnings and cautionary tales come from experience.

I agree, great insight by the good Dr. Maybe I may go out and buy a new lathe and put those tools to good use this year. Been contemplating it for several years.

A bunch of guys use poplar for plugs.

Eric shop sounds like its going to be winner .
I've got similar size sqft 12x12 '
you have some great advice in this thread

In my shop I find mobile base a big plus . I keep band saw on one and table saw on one . When they are need simply roll into open area and use -hook up vac hose and go .. when done reverse saves lots of space.
I use 3 benches .1 for lathe and drill press, one for assembly and another for misc and holding spray booth when painting .My table saw doubles for 4 bench when its against the wall.masonite on top=bench
don't forget to look up -use ceiling to hold racks hang plugs to dry
I have unfinished ceiling so floor joists double for cubbys ...store wood inbetween etc
Good luck and stay safe! if your not sure or it dosn't feel right stop think it out or give these guys a shout:buds:

I'd think buying turning stock from a wood working store would be very expensive unless you are looking for small pieces of exotics.
Check out hardwood lumber stores for wood if you have access to a tablesaw. Otherwise, #^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^& and M&D's also have plug wood already cut to size (you can buy a lot of wood for the price of a tablesaw)
Maple needles are not likely to split (too narrow). Birch is fine (habs and gibbs used it), but open grained and a little rougher finished. Soft maple is a good wood to use for sinking plugs.

A bunch of guys use poplar for plugs.

Yeah, I think it gets a bad rap because it is prone to rot. But plugs don't rot and properly sealed poplar has worked for me in the past. I've even made bluefish stuff out of fir/spruce 2x4's.

I only own one set of calipers, instead, I've opted to make a set of gauges from wire, I've made them from left over peices of heavy welders wire, I make them in the shape of a U and label each size with painters tape( I also have a set of "L" shaped ones for measuring common distances), I put them in a home made holder with holes drilled every 1/4", they are graduated from 1/4" to 2" in 1/4 fractions, with exception to some sizes (like 5/8) that I commonly use...

As far as dupe versus hand turning... I split the duty pretty much down the middle...Having two lathes helps alot...

There is a helpful book by an Englishman, F Pain, called "The Practical Wood Turner". I don't know if it is still available, but it was paperback and cost about $6 when I bought it. Written by a guy who spent his life turning wood for a living. Tons of useful tips and explanations in there. Great read for anyone interested in turning without a duplicator.

Checked amazon. Plenty of used paperback versions for cheap. It is not anything you'd collect so don't worry if it is a beater. Its value is all in its words.

Eric I'm cutting some blanks in the morning ayc 1 1/2 x 1 1/2
send me mail addy I' send a few blanks 7" long ?
you can see how that works ..find it easier to cut than red cedar

I am in the opposite camp. I only turn with a duplicator. I make my patterns first then I turn them. I adjust my patterns to what I want the plug to look like. I have never turned a plug with hand tools in my life. I got plenty of hand tools just never interested me to use them. I also have been running lathes for 30 yeas so I don't find anything really fun about turning. I just want it off the lathe and on to the other, fun, aspects. Just want to let you know there are many ways to make plugs and I am glad to hear many find turning to be fun. Keep at it and always keep it fun.

What I do now if I want to duplicate a plug is take it into work, put it on the Copier then take the paper copy and cut out a stencil, then transfer that to a templet for the duplicator. Works pretty pissah and i don't have to rewire an original after I mount it on the Duplicator

a very handy tool is the dial caliper

YouTube - Dial Caliper Basics (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28qOM0uG7h0)

Is that what you measure fish with, Paul?

Eric,
DO NOT waste your money on anything resembling good wood! Yet. You have a mountain of shavings to make from cheap pine from Homies or Lowsy before you try the good stuff.

As I have fairly recently learned, shaping a nice plug is the easy part. There are many many ways to screw up between shaping and fishing the plug, and they all must be figured out before you can expect to go fishing with your own plugs.

Take your time and learn as you go. Experience is the best teacher.

Good luck,
Jon

Eric,
DO NOT waste your money on anything resembling good wood! Yet. You have a mountain of shavings to make from cheap pine from Homies or Lowsy before you try the good stuff.

As I have fairly recently learned, shaping a nice plug is the easy part. There are many many ways to screw up between shaping and fishing the plug, and they all must be figured out before you can expect to go fishing with your own plugs.

Take your time and learn as you go. Experience is the best teacher.

Good luck,
Jon

Thanks, Jon -- good advice.

What I do now if I want to duplicate a plug is take it into work, put it on the Copier then take the paper copy and cut out a stencil, then transfer that to a templet for the duplicator. Works pretty pissah and i don't have to rewire an original after I mount it on the Duplicator

That's a neat trick.

Don't forget all the good wood you find at the foot of someones driveway. I started that way and continue to look for future "supplies". Someones junk is another person's gold.

I've read about this, but I'm not sure how this works. Do most of you through-drill with the lathe?

I do. Very rarely miss connecting each side with this method. I just did 30 , 8" long , .400 dia. maple needles and only lost 1. Thin maple needles are the measuring stick as far as I'm concerned. If you can do those you can do anything. If it is a danny or a metal lip swimmer of some kind i will only drill from the ass end and stop at where the front belly hook hole will fall. I then hydro them, drill belly hook holes, I then cut lip slot, lay the lip in, mark where the lip hole will go and hand drill that hole to meet the front belly hole, thus connecting the whole shabang for a thru wire.

Hey Roach, Glad the shop is coming along. FWIW doing your through drilling on the lathe is spot on! I don't make many plugs but I drill them all on the lathe.
Let me know if I can be of help as you venture into this thing we call "plug building"

A couple things I learned- the hard and frustrating way:

DO NOT use a brad point bit to through drill. Use a standard bit, or better yet, one meant for end grain.

You don't need a really long bit, as you will drill in from each end and meet in the middle. Use a hand drill with a long bit to finish if your lathe drilling bit is too short to make it halfway through the plug- very likely with pencils and needles.

Go SLOW. Push the plug onto the bit about a 1/4-1/2", back it out to clear the chips, go another 1/4-1/2", clear chips....

Good luck young grasshoppa

Try both. I find the drill press easier. Lots of threads on through drilling.

No drilling for me anymore..I got two pet termites..one male one female....I dangle the female in front of the plugs nose on a string, then put the male on the tail of the plug an say "go get her butch"go upstairs an have a cup of coffee,come back and their maken kids...perfect straight wire hole evey time.

E.R......maybe to late now,but u didn't say what the finished walls were going to be inside, you live in the land of rough sawn pine..that wood be the ticket as u'd not have any problems in finding any place to screw into...if u were headed for rock the best thing before it goes on wood be to use 1/2" ply on the walls before putting up the rock..then any where u needed to screw into it wood b solid...no hunting for studds an hoping one was there.

A couple things I learned- the hard and frustrating way:

DO NOT use a brad point bit to through drill. Use a standard bit, or better yet, one meant for end grain.


Good luck young grasshoppa

Have you had issues using brad point bits?
I have actually found them to be much more accurate in my thru drilling, and give the best results. I use them because they have
the little point on the end which for me anyway is much easier to
pinpoint the center mark on the plug blank and go straight down.
I currently use one of my drill presses to drill and and meet up with a long bit in a hand drill.
One tip I can share which has helped me is on my first "plunge" of the drill press I only go about 2 millimeters. I have found that this somehow sets the hole if you know what I mean. I have tried going a deeper like a 1/2 to 1 inch and sometimes you can notice the drill bit grab some grain and look like it may go off. For some reason, I have much better success on subsequent plunges when I make that first hole about 2 mm deep.

I recently acquired a 9" metal lathe and am planning on getting it set up to do some experimenting with thru drilling on it. I was able to do a couple test blanks with some good results.

I had nothing but bad luck with brad points, so I researched them and found that the side spurs were the problem. They tend to follow the grain and veer off course. The point in the center is good, and bits designed to drill end grain have some sort of point in the center.

Since ditching the brads and going to a Morris Tools end grain bit I haven't wrecked a plug while through drilling. Even 8+"ers.

Woody what's different about the end grain bit? Where did you get it?

They are brad point bits with no spurs. Fuller drill (and presumably Morris Tools) will grind them on any size drill you want. It is what the drill companies recommend for end grain.

Check out the step drills while you are at it. Expensive but very useful for enlarging through holes concentrically to fit belly weights.

Never a problem with brad points? Standard bits wander too much...much more than brad point bits.

Never a problem with brad points? Standard bits wander too much...much more than brad point bits.

I've had problems with both. I use a lathe, but have used a drill press also and have messed up many a blank. It's all trial and error. Gotta love it! I use a short bit in the lathe and make the connection with a 10" bit in my hand drill. When using the hand drill I've found that going slow and backing out is the key, especially with hard woods (Maple, Mahogany).

Found this some place.

"Boring end grain material with a brad point drill with outlining spurs can be a problem because the spurs are not needed.

The spurs drag in end grain.

Modify the drill by grinding the spurs off following the existing back clearance. Then, regrind the cutting edge with a 7 to 15 degree angle from the O.D. of the drill, tilting downwards to the point, again following the existing back clearance. This is called an acme cut.

Now the brad point enters the material followed by the outlining O.D. (where the spurs were), which sizes the hole without dragging."

And...

"Brad Point drills tend to run out (go off line) and burn in end grain because the spurs try to follow the grain.

The Morris Wood Tool End Grain point does not have lips (spurs) and the clearance angle of the main cutting edges is changed slightly. This point bores straight and clean in most woods."

I picked up 3 (3/16" x 6” OAL with 2-1/4” twist) for $25.59 including shipping.

No drilling for me anymore..I got two pet termites..one male one female....I dangle the female in front of the plugs nose on a string, then put the male on the tail of the plug an say "go get her butch"go upstairs an have a cup of coffee,come back and their maken kids...perfect straight wire hole evey time.


and how do you catch a squirrel ?

With a hand grenade!:uhuh:

Maybe i should bring my drill master to plugfest and do a show and tell.

That thing is awesome! I have seen a couple of them!! AH and Fishdoc!!:uhuh:

I know you have Larry.:uhuh:

What is it? PIXS!!

Maybe i should bring my drill master to plugfest and do a show and tell.

I would love to see it in action at plugfest. I think I have seen a picture of it, but not quite sure of how it works.....

You show that Lou and you better make a few dozen to sell....with the first one going to me!!!:uhuh:

:hidin:

I've read about this, but I'm not sure how this works. Do most of you through-drill with the lathe?

my self taught .02 (w. some help from pbadad and others i should add) i thru drill on the lathe, most of the time. shorter plugs require less priming (ie tapping w/ shorter bit to cut back on wander). take your time. many ways to skin a cat in this plugmaking game, see what you like according to your capabilites and patience. what counts to me is finished product, how it swims and enjoying the whole experience i had w/ each plug. i choose to blaze my own path with minimal guidance rather than think there is "a best way" i should follow.

A couple of pics of my shop-in-progress. It's small, so it's hard to actually take pics inside the shop.

The gentleman in the picture is my dad, who -- despite cancer -- wants to build this with me.

my self taught .02 (w. some help from pbadad and others i should add) i thru drill on the lathe, most of the time. shorter plugs require less priming (ie tapping w/ shorter bit to cut back on wander). take your time. many ways to skin a cat in this plugmaking game, see what you like according to your capabilites and patience. what counts to me is finished product, how it swims and enjoying the whole experience i had w/ each plug. i choose to blaze my own path with minimal guidance rather than think there is "a best way" i should follow.


I appreciate the advice. I like to gather a lot of opinions first when I'm doing something unfamiliar. Usually helps me until I build some momentum & confidence.

Lookin good!! Your lucky to have a dad that is able and willing to help; treasure these moments and take plenty of pictures they are priceless.

shop looks great. I can't offer much advice as my stuff is all over the place but something to keep in mind is don't set up anything so it's permanent.

Over time you will find certain tools to be a nuisance where they are and want to move them around and so on.

A couple of pics of my shop-in-progress. It's small, so it's hard to actually take pics inside the shop.

The gentleman in the picture is my dad, who -- despite cancer -- wants to build this with me.

God Bless your father man. That shop's special in more ways than one. make sure you geta picture of the first plug you make and post it!
jeff

You can build plugs in a shop that has windows??????!!!!!!!! :wall:

I can offer a little advice,,,,, since most is still fresh in my mind after building a shop this spring and still working on it,,,,

Make sure you plan ahead and put lots of electrical outlets so you can move anything anywhere later on,
Plan to vent a spraybooth outside
lower the bench your lathe will be on so it is at a comfortable height to use
If possible plan to vent your dust collector outside,,,
I also built my benchtop out of double thickness MDF then put two coats of poly on it,,,,

Most importantly enjoy the time with your dad,,,,

you might get an idea or two from here http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/plug-building-got-wood/59393-shop.html

The accepted standard is to place the center of the spindle at the height of your elbow above the floor with your arm loosely at your side.

The accepted standard is to place the center of the spindle at the height of your elbow above the floor with your arm loosely at your side.


Oh no! I measured and it is best to mount it 4" higher to account for all the woodchips you'll soon be standing on. ;)

You need more suction on that dust collector.:smash:

You need more suction on that dust collector.:smash:

Or a basket with no holes in it.lol:grins:

or maybe a pet hampster to bed in the basket...

Lookin good!! Your lucky to have a dad that is able and willing to help; treasure these moments and take plenty of pictures they are priceless.

My dad truly is "the man". We went to Montauk together this past October. We spend as much time together as we can these days.

...Make sure you plan ahead and put lots of electrical outlets so you can move anything anywhere later on...Plan to vent a spraybooth outside...If possible plan to vent your dust collector outside...

There are 9 outlets in the shop. The dust collector, lathe and air filter will all be on their own circuits. The lighting is on its own circuit to prevent dimming. Everything is wired 20-amp.

The drying cabinet, spraybooth, finishing chest & lead smelting operation are all going in a 4' x 8' enclosure on the other side of the basement. I'm putting in an explosion-proof hood in there which vents to the outside.

I think I'm OK with the dust collector -- it's one of those 1 micron cannister types.

shop looks great. I can't offer much advice as my stuff is all over the place but something to keep in mind is don't set up anything so it's permanent.

Over time you will find certain tools to be a nuisance where they are and want to move them around and so on.

That's good advice. I'm trying not to build anything around where I think the equipment will always stay.

God Bless your father man. That shop's special in more ways than one. make sure you geta picture of the first plug you make and post it!
jeff

I sure will.

I can offer a little advice,,,,, since most is still fresh in my mind after building a shop this spring and still working on it,,,,

Make sure you plan ahead and put lots of electrical outlets so you can move anything anywhere later on,
Plan to vent a spraybooth outside
lower the bench your lathe will be on so it is at a comfortable height to use
If possible plan to vent your dust collector outside,,,
I also built my benchtop out of double thickness MDF then put two coats of poly on it,,,,

Most importantly enjoy the time with your dad,,,,

you might get an idea or two from here http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/plug-building-got-wood/59393-shop.html


BTW: That's a beautiful shop!

and how do you catch a squirrel ?

Thats easy......8 lb mono to nut ..mono leads to the window....place super glue on nut...toss nut into known feeding ground,,wait for the bump...count to 4...drag his arse up to the window...let window fall..fight over.

Man...I have a ways to go before getting this shop completed. Made the classic mistake of trying to hang 3/8" sheet rock on the ceiling. Sagged perciptively; took it all down.

I hope to be turning by early February...Looks like I'll be ready just in time for Plug Fest.

Man...I have a ways to go before getting this shop completed. Made the classic mistake of trying to hang 3/8" sheet rock on the ceiling. Sagged perciptively; took it all down.

I hope to be turning by early February...Looks like I'll be ready just in time for Plug Fest.

Thanks,,, Sounds like you methodically planned out the right stuff for your shop long before you started banging nails,,,,,

I used plywood instead of sheet rock in my shop,,,, it was a little bit of a pain but worth it and only $9 a sheet and was able to use the same cutout tool for the outlet boxes,, Now I don't worry about putting holes in it,,,,

Value that time with your dad,,, :uhuh::uhuh:

and keep the progress pictures coming,,,, I wish I had done that when I did mine,,,

Getting there...We are slow as hell, but I'm having a great time building the shop with my dad.

Of course, this morphed into creation of a separate rod-building room, as well as heavy duty shelving installation, etc.

Looks like it might be all done around Plugfest.

but I'm having a great time building the shop with my dad.

Looks like it might be all done around Plugfest.

Glad you are having the chance, That time is not replaceable,,,,,,, and is incredibly special

Last spring and summer I was able to do the same,,,, Had huge plans to finish and build some plugs and make my first ever Plug fest,,,..

Unfortunately all my winter plans for building plugs and life priorities changed due to my dads health,,,

Keep those pics coming,,,

Roach; Read the rules, sheet rock is not allowed in plug shop. :smash:

Glad you are having the chance, That time is not replaceable,,,,,,, and is incredibly special

Last spring and summer I was able to do the same,,,, Had huge plans to finish and build some plugs and make my first ever Plug fest,,,..

Unfortunately all my winter plans for building plugs and life priorities changed due to my dads health,,,

Keep those pics coming,,,

Thanks, I surely will.

Roach; Read the rules, sheet rock is not allowed in plug shop. :smash:

Uh oh...Any other rules I'm unaware of?

Put a sink near where you plan to paint.

Put a sink near where you plan to paint.

I framed-out a 5' x 10' section of the basement which I'll use for gear storage, but probably will convert to a seal/paint/lead-smelting room. It already has 8" duct-work vented to the outside. I'd have to have a plumber come in and install a sink.

If I go this way, it won't be until next autumn...I'm over-budget on the wood shop and I have other projects to sink $ into before fishing season starts.

So...I'll be painting in the shop and without a sink this first year. I imagine I'll have to invest in some Mason jars when I start spraying acrylics.

Finishing the shop was put on hold last spring so I could actually build some plugs. Work started again in autumn and should be done in a weekend or two.

It'll be nice to actually start building again.

Built a cabinet around the dust collector to limit noise, still have to drill-out the exit holes. Finishing the main bench with cabinets now. After the white Formica tops, all that will be left is the laminate flooring.

Beautiful shop Eric...

I wish I had big windows... I have one opening cellar window and a bulkhead door with cement stairs.. so I can get some x ventilation

On the beach/rivers I like gliding pencils . but usually opt for a spook .. although my best river PP this year was a 80's factory loaded 5.25" Cordell .. .. In the canal I like bouncing pencils (hawg hunter style weighting).. I call it "The trying to get the hell out of the water " look .. cast like missles too ..

So can we see pics of gliding and bouncing pencils?

Holy smokes nice set up !! too nice ,get it dirty ,dusty ,soon:biglaugh:

I know, tell me about it. I've been laying the laminate floor all day. Finish that tomorrow, cut & stain baseboard, touch-up paint. Install baseboard Sunday, equipment back in, rig dust collection...Finally start building again.