seeing we are on a fixture kick as of late, I thought I'd share my lip slot fixture.... like most , in the beginning, i clamped the plug in the vice and used a back saw to cut my ( sometimes not so straight) lip slots...

I bought my table top 9" Craftsman just for lip slots ( but since have used it for many other things) the fixture relies on the miter gauge track and the blade slot..... a screw and washer are fitted in the bottom of the fixture and tightend enough to slide in the blade slot, a rail is screwd and glued onto the side to align the fixture, this rail rides in the miter slot... A "V" block is mounted on the front of the fixture and a slot cut ( on center of coarse) in the blade path... a tail stock and pin is inserted into the rear of the plug and keeps the plug in place, of coarse this calls for the rear of the plug to be drilled to accomdate the pin... the "v" block accomodates many different size plugs and the tail stock can be drilled ( or changed) to meet the need of the height of the plug to keep it level, these tail stock are the same ones I use in my darter/swing fixture....

these next series shows the rail/miter slot and the lip cut and Cap'n Bill swimmer with it's new lip....

Wow, I like that. I'm gonna have to make one of those. The freehand thing just isn't working out. Thx for sharing.

I use something similar except I clamp down a piece of wood and use it as a fence then cut the lip slot. I like your method better as the fence sometimes slides when I do it my way. Thanks for the pics!

Do you find the blade that came with that saw to "wander" alot.I had to upgrade to the next size 3/8 I believe, to keep cuts straight.

Nice jig Joe i can tell your a machinist by ther use of the miter slot.I key off the slot on alot of my tooling also.

Do you find the blade that came with that saw to "wander" alot.I had to upgrade to the next size 3/8 I believe, to keep cuts straight.

I changed the blade out to a 3/16" blade, but never had a problem with the original,it was just too thick for most of the lips to fit snugly... I did have trouble getting the tension on the 3/16 blade exact,The factory setting on the cam lever had it to tight and it was impossible to keep on the tire... but once I got it set up correctly, it works like a charm and cuts straight as an arrow...

Nice jig Joe i can tell your a machinist by ther use of the miter slot.I key off the slot on alot of my tooling also.


I'm actualy a mechanic...I repair Lathes,bridgeports and CnC machines, and anything that breaks or wears out in the facility..... but working around machinists, you learn a thing or two...

I'm actualy a mechanic...but working around machinists, you learn a thing or two...

You mean like count your plugs after they leave and don't leave any donuts where they can be seen?

Do you find the blade that came with that saw to "wander" alot.I had to upgrade to the next size 3/8 I believe, to keep cuts straight.

I can't speak for these little saws, but on full sized bandsaws blade tracking is much more about saw alignment, guide adjustment, and blade tension, than blade width. Generally, the smaller the saw the less tension it can produce so the smaller the blade the better off you are.

You mean like count your plugs after they leave and don't leave any donuts where they can be seen?

amongst other things...

I can't speak for these little saws, but on full sized bandsaws blade tracking is much more about saw alignment, guide adjustment, and blade tension, than blade width. Generally, the smaller the saw the less tension it can produce so the smaller the blade the better off you are.


Same principle applies. to the little guys.. set them up correctly and your problems are nill..

Why the need for a key that slides in the miter slot AND the bolt that slides in the blade slot?

Also, when the diameter of the plug changes the centerline to the rear changes as well. Smaller plugs will have an angled lip slot. Not much but some.

Nice idea non the less.

did somebody say donuts.

Nice fixture Joe. I got to see them all and they are all top notch and give youplenty of food for thought.

Why the need for a key that slides in the miter slot AND the bolt that slides in the blade slot?

Also, when the diameter of the plug changes the centerline to the rear changes as well. Smaller plugs will have an angled lip slot. Not much but some.

Nice idea non the less.

Good questions... the screw in the blade slot keeps the jig from falling off the table....look Ma no hands...

the tail stocks are interchangeable, thus compensating for the height difference...

Nice jig ..Thanks for the share

JOE, must be nice having all thoes tools:smash: Im still using a HAND SAW:uhuh:
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN:)

your hand saw does just fine.. but haveing a full shop sure speeds up the process...