When my shop is finally done (I'm the world's slowest carpenter) I plan on learning to build pencils & poppers with Eastern White Pine (EWP).

I've been reading the recent threads about sealers and I'm wondering what might be recommended for a sealer/primer combination for EWP.

I'm starting with EWP instead of a American Yellow Cedar (AYC) because I'd like to avoid the risks associated with cedar dust. Also, I'd just assume avoid the risks associated with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) as a sealer while I'm getting my feet wet in building...I'd hate to burn down my nice new house.

So, again, if any experienced hands can recommend a sealer/primer combo for EWP, I'd be grateful.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

Hi Bill,

I might get there with both, but I do want to start with something cheap (EWP) and relatively safe.

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

Thank you for the detailed advice, Woody.

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

I mix etex up per directions. Thin it with denatured alcohol, 50%.

So if your using 1 ounce resin, 1 ounce hardener, use 1 ounce DA.

Heat up the blanks. Pour the mixture from one cup into another, pouring it over the blank/in the holes. It will be thin and coat quickly.

Hang the blanks to drip bit and dry. DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. It is bit messy. I do it in the garage, then move the blanks into my basement to dry overnight.

No dust created by any wood is safe. The only thing meant to go in the lungs is air.

No dust created by any wood is safe.

correct, just read the OSHA report on wood dust..
pine dust gives me a sinus infection that is world class...lord knows what else it is doin' to me...

nor is any fumes....from BLO, Tung, gas coming off of epoxy as it is applied primers paints sealers clear coats etc etc etc....

gotta love the :jump1: tho.. ;)

ventilate wear your filtered mask, resperator, use a spray booth with an explosion proof fan motor... dust dollector if ya got it...

be safe with your rags.. ( cap 'em tight in an old jar..cover with water if ya feel the need)

just basic shop safety...like they taught ya in Wood shop...hopefully

and second hand smoke, drunk drivers..idiots in line at DD...
most anything will kill ya...just be carefull out there...
and remember to enjoy.

EWP isn't cheap (when you buy the clear stuff) but wonderful to turn. Softer and lighter than AYC, not as light or soft as WRC (which is also very allergenic). The pine does contain some pitch. If you heat set your plugs in the oven some may leak out and discolor small spots of the paint and later the epoxy (though this is much more of an issue with sugar pine). No big deal as far as fishing plugs are concerned.

Seal with Polyurethane thinned with MS....about as safe and simple as you can get. I use VAl Oil which is not as good (but I bought 4 gallons worth before I realized PolyU was better).

I use VAl Oil which is not as good (but I bought 4 gallons worth before I realized PolyU was better).

NS, so far, i've only used val-oil, it was recommended to me when i began last winter, but there seems to me to be alot of waste and i'm considering trying something else... why do you like the poly better? is there a specific brand you prefer and how much do you thin it for an initial seal? i prime w/ zinser cover stain and finish sealing w/ etex lite...thanks
jeff

I think the price difference between AYC and EWP is minimal, at least from what I've been paying. I would focus more on the function of the plug for the wood than the cost, as in the end you're still going to be spending plenty of $$.

NS, so far, i've only used val-oil, it was recommended to me when i began last winter, but there seems to me to be alot of waste and i'm considering trying something else... why do you like the poly better? is there a specific brand you prefer and how much do you thin it for an initial seal? i prime w/ zinser cover stain and finish sealing w/ etex lite...thanks
jeff

I haven't used it yet, but lots of guys do and I like how their plugs hold up. Ask Prof M or PNG, I think they use Helmsman thinned 60/40. Zinser didn't work for me very well so I prime with ZSpar white marine undercoat 105 (brush on with foam brush). It works great. I use System Three Clear Coat for epoxy, which I found to be the best, but God did I suffer learning to work with it and using it still scares me every time. Search this board about it before you try it and ruin 2 weeks worth of work.

I use System Three Clear Coat for epoxy, and using it still scares me every time. .

Yes siree Bob.:biglaugh:


I like Hellsman spar urethane a lot. The satin, not the gloss. PNG got me into it and I like the results. It has gone up in price to about $43 a gallon now. I also epoxy seal my red cedar and other soft woods. I just use System 3 clear coat as is and put on a heated plug.

Been turning and testing for about two weeks now and I've discovered(not surprisingly) pine is much better to work with, more bouyant, and swimming plugs in particular have great action compared to the other options. You need to add a bit more lead if its distance you want, but I'll likely be sticking primarily with pine for my stuff. Exception is I'll be experimenting with some birch for my needles when I get to them.

Look at most of the classic old plugs like musso, gibbs, and beachmaster. They're primarily made out of pine.

My other observation is if any wood plug gets more than one season of heavy use its likely going to need major refurbishment or replacement. Why bother with the exotic stuff given most wooden plugs have a limited life anyways?

most wooden plugs have a limited life anyways?

very good point. They are wooden fishing lures not B1 bomber parts, they will wear out and get lost, even the most expensive well built ones.:uhuh::uhuh:

Jeff, I been using as you know both sealers. I like the poly/ min.spirits, and the Val /min.spirits. 60/40 cut for both. I used the val for cedars and pine and poly for birch and maple. Both dry quick 2days the most pending temp amd so far hold the gold label Zinseer primer (oil base). I do a 2 coat dip. scotchbrite between coats. I would spray the primer but w.o a spraay booth to rid the cellar of fumes I find dipping easy. Made a cardboard box w. coathanger rods going across the width of the box and the drips go into a roller tray on bottom.I cut a opening in the lower half of one end to facilitate the installation and removal of the tray. After an hour or so I pour the drippings back into the primer can. The 2 coat covered the pine grain completely. lightly sand , clean(wash) w/denatured alcohol and make the plug "PERTY"!