Every winter I spend X amount of money on clear coats just to try . Think I'm up around 2k now and my basement is a bomb . I've bought some very bad stuff .Some so volatile if I spilled a gallon it would be instantly airborn (but heavier than air) and my gas pilots in my furnace ,water heater,dryer, would probably ignite my house . Fun hobby aye ? .. I got into a little jam with a company year before last that sent me thier product in a plain unlabled can . ($85.00 a gallon).. I sent them a reply that I wasn't happy,, Like ,, What's in this can ? .. The product I bought had a name and was pictured in a labeled can . The said " We ran out of cans " so I said ,, "I'm sending it back " I want what I ordered !!!! .. so ,, shhh .. I cracked the can,, dunked a plug in it ,, resealed and sent it back .. So a week later the product arrives and to my suprise its a can of "Seal Krete" .. I call them back .. " Hey ,,This isn't what I ordered ... They replied ,, "Same Stuff " I was pissed .. I googled and saw Seal Krete $25 a can .. I've worked at factory's and watch as they packaged product ,then changed packaging and continue running same stuff .. So I know this happens .. Anyways .. I tried it a season and thought it was pretty good .. Very "Safe" to use ,, 1 part ,,, water base ,,and holds up as good as pretty much any thing (except that real explosive stuff I had).. Just dip and hang .. Dry to the touch the next day but takes about a month(rubbery) to fully cure ..and the price is right .. I highly recomend trying it for this years proto's.. See what you think .. I've passed this info along to others last year .. I'm giving this out so you guys don't kill yourselfs with some of this other stuff .. Dip and dab butt of plug with a paper towel ..

Hi Gloss clear sealer for use over painted, stained or bare concrete surfaces. Perfect sealer for you epoxy painted garage floor. (http://www.stainmyconcrete.com/showroom.htm)

it cant be any good... it doesnt catch on fire., blow up your shop... stink like hell or take a month to dry...just kidding of coarse...

it cant be any good... it doesnt catch on fire., blow up your shop... stink like hell or take a month to dry...just kidding of coarse...

Yes it is pretty good .. cheap, clean ,easy 1 part and won't kill your family . Does take a while to fully cure though as does alot of stuff anyway. This a good cellar dweller clear coat .. Best I've found to date . Others that work in buildings away from thier house may opt for the nasty stuff .

Yes it is pretty good .. cheap, clean ,easy 1 part and won't kill your family . Does take a while to fully cure though as does alot of stuff anyway. This a good cellar dweller clear coat .. Best I've found to date . Others that work in buildings away from thier house may opt for the nasty stuff .

How does it compare to etex as far as durability? I know etex isn't the end all of top coats... just looking to gauge it's relative durability.

water based
Milky white
dries gloss clear
Must be a Water based polyurethane product
How does it compare to water base Minwax poly:confused:
I tried Minwax, and it never held up toeven light use that well.

Personally, I'm going green and sealing all my plugs with bunker oil. Will give a full update in November.

I had to take a trip to Lowes this afternoon to pick up some supplies.. they have it on the shelf ..$24.95.... it say not to be used in areas where ponding might occur...

Personally, I'm going green and sealing all my plugs with bunker oil. Will give a full update in November.
I did that a while back on a couple maple darters.
Worked great.
No cracks or water-logging.

Its a water based acrylic urethane,,, I'm not saying its bullet proof .. Or for commercial builders,, holds up better than etex ,, Nothings prettier than etex though ..Its a thin coating compared to etex ,, sticks good ,, dosen't peel like etex .. By the end of the season throwing a plug 10,000 times,, its dull,, but still there .. user friendly health wise .. no doesn't stop hook swing .. I'm still looking .. just sharing .

Thanks for sharing Eddy :uhuh: I am just like you still looking and experimenting more $$$ go for research & development than anything else.

Ed, have you tried FlexCoat rod building epoxy? Would think that stuff would do well since rods tend to be out in elements every trip day or night.

I tried this on Eddy's advice on two plugs last year (a small banana and a skin plug). It seemed to hold up pretty well. Rubbery but tough and good adhesion to the createx. Plan to give it a better test next year.

Ed, have you tried FlexCoat rod building epoxy? Would think that stuff would do well since rods tend to be out in elements every trip day or night.

Last time I built a rod I was using Dale Clemmens rod epoxy ... really slow cure .. spun the rod for hrs. but that was a million yrs. ago .. Was fairly expensive if I remember right . If your just building for your bag ,who cares about cost ?. I'm trying other stuff too ..Just bought some Crystal Sheen ,, Says "interrior use only",Wish it said that online :wall:, I think its the same as etex ,, ..

If people want I'll bring a gallon to "Plugfest " .. Bring a naked plug ready to dip and hang ,, something you'll throw alot .. We'll do a group test .. I think if you come in the door and dip ,You'll be dry when its time to go ..

I've dipped them all wired with swivels in polycrylic, as long as I scuffed the rattle can gloss with an abrasive pad they stuck good. Seemed to work as sealer also.

water based
Milky white
dries gloss clear
Must be a Water based polyurethane product
How does it compare to water base Minwax poly:confused:
I tried Minwax, and it never held up toeven light use that well.
are you talking about minwax water based poly, or minwax polycrylic? (theres 2 different ones)

I have heard that polycrylic is garbage, and its intended use also suggests the same. The actual water-based poly that minwax makes (pretty much impossible to find) would work ok, although the specs say it can/will yellow over time.

there are other brands of water-based poly that dry crystal clear, which work very well and are 1 part, simple dip and hang applications. 2-3 coats (stuff drys in under 2-3 hrs) and you're good to go. Someone compared this method to the coating on a hab's needle, so its either really good, or they were huffing tagger's paint collection :jump1:

OK, Im no pro, just a hobby builder an have very little tools, all my TOP COATS are POLICRYLI -->simple dip, and hang ,application, 3-4 coats (stuff drys in under 2-3 hrs) an re-dip till I get the amount of coats I want. usualy 4 coats. I wish I could get a GREAT FINNISH like you pros do,but MONEY restriction keep me using POLI, an I happy.
I don't sell plugs an just trade an fish 'em. I likem 'em BETTER after they have been used, they have a little CHARACTER to them. I will have plugs at plug fest if you wish to see the finnish.
GOOD LUCK GOOD PLUGGIN:uhuh:

P.S. Hay CHUMBUCKET you Comming to Plug Fest, I got a FLY for 'ya !

I just grabbed some of Scott's 2oz. dahtah kits and will build them asap.

Can I use Seal Krete to seal the maple before painting? If so, any suggestions on dunk time?

Can it be tinted to apply a colored topcoat directly to sealed wood?
The ratio for mixing paint with Seal-Krete Original Waterproofing Sealer varies, depending on the desired aesthetics. SKO can be tinted anywhere from a transparent stain to a solid hide. For transparent stains, mix paint to sealer 1:4, respectively. For a solid color, mix paint to sealer 1:1.

Thanks,
Woody

I don't think so. It more like a latex than a penetrating sealer. It is also water based and will raise the grain. I tried a similar formulation water based acrylic sealer that didn't work well.

Thanks G.

I'll stick with polyurethane I suppose.
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Personally, I'm going green
:happy:

grow some Kale