We all know korkers are a must, but I hate the idea of the 2-pounds of rubber I strap on my feet to simply put a few studs under my feet. I dont like Korkers boots with interchangeable soles... the things fall off... an besides, i dont want to change the soles! I want spikes at all times, minus the extra weight... I think my winter-long quest may have ended. narrowed it down to 2 brands of screw-in carbide spikes that go directly into the sole of your boot, and stay there... (even when you walk into mobil for a coffee... sorry Dan!) The choice comes down to wearbars, or best-grip spikes... Wader Stud Info (http://www.best-grip-usa.com/hiking_boots/wader_stud_info.html)
the best grip have a super-wide thread that looks like they will stay put. Anyone use either of these? My new boots have felt soles with rubber spots for provided "stream screws" which are garbage, but will hold the ones I hope to buy. If anyone has any first hand experience, please share... I hope my days of surfcasting with Richard Simmons ankle weights will come to an end, and my mile long walks will be a bit lighter... I'll let you know how things go. Then I'm going to burn my korkers like those hippy broads burned their bras in the 60's!
http://www.wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500B-48.jpg
These are the wearbars... the best grips look even better

hmm u got me maybe regrettin my purchase.....

I've been using Korkers brand studded felts for a long time now and been pretty happy with them.

Korker boots are better than anything I've tried out there.

I hope my days of surfcasting with Richard Simmons ankle weights will come to an end, and my mile long walks will be a bit lighter...

the upside of the sandals is I can pop them off, make the mile walk and then put them on when I get to my spot.... saves your spikes, especially on the hard granite around here.

the upside of the sandals is I can pop them off, make the mile walk and then put them on when I get to my spot.... saves your spikes, especially on the hard granite around here.

Never had that problem of wearing them out? :confused:

Even long canal hikes.

hike the ganset shoreline enough and they wear down.
Eben can fill you in on the walk he, John and I used to make....

hike the ganset shoreline enough and they wear down.
Eben can fill you in on the walk he, John and I used to make....

I know what the ganset shoreline is like.
But the Korkers studded soles have survived 2 1/2 years of Canal/Newport hiking
And now a year of MTK hiking.

click click click

I'm keeping my current set of soles and throwing them on new guides.

i just like the idea of having spikes minus the heavy rubber sandal... running back into the house after gearing up because I forgot something might be a problem though!!!

I know what the ganset shoreline is like.
But the Korkers studded soles have survived 2 1/2 years of Canal/Newport hiking
And now a year of MTK hiking.

click click click

I'm keeping my current set of soles and throwing them on new guides.

Ted..
One other component... you are a bit under the Eben/Rockhound weight class... :smash::wall: might contribute to it...

Lately I've been using Simms G4 vibram soled guide boots with screw in Simms carbide spikes.

Don't go that route. They weigh a ton, they are very wide (which throws you off balance in bad footing), have too much ankle padding for good support, and the hard soles and stud pressure make them very uncomfortable to stand still on a rock for anything more than a few minutes. Cost a ton as well. Seem like they will last much longer than felt, but the misery involved leaves me unsure it is worth it.

Ive been through nearly everything out there and feel as if I'm finally getting close. Last year I used what was in the picture which is wearbars stud screwed into chota stl plus boots and they were excellent...except once the boots get wet the leather and padding soak up water weigh a ton and never seem to dry out completely. Why would a company make wading boots that absorb water? I was very impressed with the studs, zero loss, no studs worn out. This year trying a new light weight Simms boot that is made to accept a screw in stud.Simms also has a carbide stud but they dont look long enough to get through the weed on the rocks but they may be good at the canal or a jetty. I have found that nothing grips the rocks like a carbide tipped stud.
The other system I use if Im walking a long way to a spot before getting in the water is to carry my Korker 1100 plus lace up sandals and tie them to light wading boots when I get there.
The complaints I have heard regarding Korker boots are not enough stud, not durable, rusting hardware and the boa system locking up with sand.
Now if someone would make breathable bootfoot waders that would last more than a season.

Lately I've been using Simms G4 vibram soled guide boots with screw in Simms carbide spikes.

Don't go that route. They weigh a ton, they are very wide (which throws you off balance in bad footing), have too much ankle padding for good support, and the hard soles and stud pressure make them very uncomfortable to stand still on a rock for anything more than a few minutes. Cost a ton as well. Seem like they will last much longer than felt, but the misery involved leaves me unsure it is worth it.

Thanks for this advice,,,, Was thinking about this but not now,,,,

I have the Korker Ultra Lites... Not a problem with them at all and had them all last season,, I wore for them for 7 nights at Cutty and many trips to Block, lots of walks in the sand to Naps, among all my other fishing,,,,,,, No problems with durability or the soles falling out,,,,,, It was easy to keep a spare set of spike soles in the car just in case but never needed them,,,

The only thing I did not like was it seems like they need just a few more studs on the sides around the wide part of your foot,,,

agree... not enough spikes on the korker inserts... I think I am going to try the wearbars... if they fail, I'll remove them, and go back to my ankle weights (k-5000) but I have to try...

the upside of the sandals is I can pop them off, make the mile walk and then put them on when I get to my spot.... saves your spikes, especially on the hard granite around here.

I second this. The bowling ball size rocks around where I fish beat the heck out of the studs.

Never had that problem of wearing them out? :confused:

Even long canal hikes.

When I used to put them on and leave them on I could go through almost a full set in a few nights. Now that I have the 5000 series and can quickly remove them I go through about 75 to 100 studs a season. All depends on where you fish.

But I also agree with the weight being a drag.

last season i ran into the same problem.

I bought a pair of korker torrent shoes with the studded soles. Plus side is they weight nothing and are very comfortable. great for wetsuit fishing and swimming to rocks.

Bad side is sand gets in the soles and pops out the middle section making them very uncomforatble and not enough studs on the edges, and no ankle support.

so i bought a pair of hodgeman/frogtoggs boots from one of the major sporting good places for like $25 on sale, I went with the lug boot sole, boots weigh nothing and dont absorb water. then went to home depot and bought a pack of hex head metal tappers in stainless. Went home and drilled them in.....instant korkers.

its a cheap way out and works great. i only lost one screw all season.

Ted..
One other component... you are a bit under the Eben/Rockhound weight class... :smash::wall: might contribute to it...

Damn fatties. :hidin:

When I used to put them on and leave them on I could go through almost a full set in a few nights.

Pick your feet up. ;)

last season i ran into the same problem.

I bought a pair of korker torrent shoes with the studded soles. Plus side is they weight nothing and are very comfortable. great for wetsuit fishing and swimming to rocks.

Bad side is sand gets in the soles and pops out the middle section making them very uncomforatble and not enough studs on the edges, and no ankle support.

so i bought a pair of hodgeman/frogtoggs boots from one of the major sporting good places for like $25 on sale, I went with the lug boot sole, boots weigh nothing and dont absorb water. then went to home depot and bought a pack of hex head metal tappers in stainless. Went home and drilled them in.....instant korkers.

its a cheap way out and works great. i only lost one screw all season.

I did the same exact thing with my korker felt sold boots. I drill the screws right into the felt sole, so now I have the felt and the studs. work good.

Some of the places I fish I need to be quiet going in so I don't wants studs crunching asphalt by people's homes. Need to be quiet.

Some of the places I fish I need to be quiet going in so I don't wants studs crunching asphalt by people's homes. Need to be quiet.

Stay out of there!!!!!!!

Here is a link you might want to look at:

Wader Boot Modifacation (http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=609175)

Pick your feet up. ;)

I can't the sandles weight to much.:biglaugh:

Some of the places I fish I need to be quiet going in so I don't wants studs crunching asphalt by people's homes. Need to be quiet.

GET OFF MY LAWN!

Some of the places I fish I need to be quiet going in so I don't wants studs crunching asphalt by people's homes. Need to be quiet.

just wear an iPod or something of that nature while walking, it's a miracle, but the clanking sound disappears ... you just have to remember not to sing, as that will wake up everyone around. :jump1:

its funny, because as vague as your statement was John, I actually think I know what spot youre talking about... but my keyboard will never tell...

We all know korkers are a must, but I hate the idea of the 2-pounds of rubber I strap on my feet to simply put a few studs under my feet. I dont like Korkers boots with interchangeable soles... the things fall off... an besides, i dont want to change the soles! I want spikes at all times, minus the extra weight... I think my winter-long quest may have ended. narrowed it down to 2 brands of screw-in carbide spikes that go directly into the sole of your boot, and stay there... (even when you walk into mobil for a coffee... sorry Dan!) The choice comes down to wearbars, or best-grip spikes... Wader Stud Info (http://www.best-grip-usa.com/hiking_boots/wader_stud_info.html)
the best grip have a super-wide thread that looks like they will stay put. Anyone use either of these? My new boots have felt soles with rubber spots for provided "stream screws" which are garbage, but will hold the ones I hope to buy. If anyone has any first hand experience, please share... I hope my days of surfcasting with Richard Simmons ankle weights will come to an end, and my mile long walks will be a bit lighter... I'll let you know how things go. Then I'm going to burn my korkers like those hippy broads burned their bras in the 60's!
http://www.wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500B-48.jpg
These are the wearbars... the best grips look even better

IP, my partner and I have used the same concept all last season. Block, Cutty, Squibnocket and local. Zero problems and convenient. I used the cabelas guide boot and he the Chotas. I added 7 more studs to the felt soles. total 21 spikes. These spikes are carbide and are used on snow machine tracks.Wear like iron. No signs of wear. Heck i'd be putting new studs in Korkers if they can be threaded twice ina season. I too had issues on long walks w/ 2 lb sandals. I did ss bolt route in the corkers soles also but the weight was a killer. You won't be dissappointed. I actually wrote an article for our club's newsletter this month on this concept. If you look at the cabelas Ultra-lite boots they now come with stud insert receivers. These are 1/2 the weight of the leather wading boots. I used these with the unreplaceable studs and they were very comfortable. I wish they came out b/4 I went and bought the leather ones. Either way this is a great improvement over the sandals.

IP, my partner and I have used the same concept all last season. Block, Cutty, Squibnocket and local. Zero problems and convenient. I used the cabelas guide boot and he the Chotas. I added 7 more studs to the felt soles. total 21 spikes. These spikes are carbide and are used on snow machine tracks.Wear like iron. No signs of wear. Heck i'd be putting new studs in Korkers if they can be threaded twice ina season. I too had issues on long walks w/ 2 lb sandals. I did ss bolt route in the corkers soles also but the weight was a killer. You won't be dissappointed. I actually wrote an article for our club's newsletter this month on this concept. If you look at the cabelas Ultra-lite boots they now come with stud insert receivers. These are 1/2 the weight of the leather wading boots. I used these with the unreplaceable studs and they were very comfortable. I wish they came out b/4 I went and bought the leather ones. Either way this is a great improvement over the sandals.
How long are the screw portion of the studs, I have ll beans riversomethings with studs and could use some more.

I don't care what I use, it will wear out or some will rip out. So for those screwing into the sole, how does the hole hold up with repeated replacements?

The studs come in various lengths. I bought 3/4" thread length because they were out of stock on the 1/2" length. I used the full length in the felt w/o the recepticle and snipped off a 1/8" to thread in the stud receiver. 1/2" is the size to use but the longer ones seem to really lock into the plain felt sole. The reason the 1/2" is reccommended is the chance of a breach through the sole. I did have a slight breach after a couple uses and took out the ones that I felt under foot and ground off an eigth or so. I'm telling you these studs hold well in the sole. My partner is big and rough on korkers and they have held up for him. I far as the thread portion holding up on repeated replacements time will tell but the way they wear you may throw out the boots b/4 you replace them all. Be careful installing the studs so you don't over tighten them and strip the plastic slug. I use a controlled speed electric drill to drive them down but stop b/4 they bottom out and finish the install by hand with a 3/8 nut driver.

How are the lengths measured, threads or top to bottom ?

Never mind, you answered your previous post
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

@PBADAD:

I actually have a pair of brand new cabelas boots that have the rubber spots on the felt bottoms meant for the cheap studs they provide with the boots... as soon as I saw these boots this winter, I knew my vision of losing the 2 pounds of heavy rubber was closer than ever... I knew they would stay put in the felt alone, but when I saw the rubber, I knew that would work even better. Did you use the wearbars?

I believe the threads are 1/2" and they are 46$ for 48 spikes... I am actually considering a bit of epoxy on the threads prior to screwing them in, but from your experience, is this necessary? Did you have any fall out entirely? This is definitely worth a shot... worst case you can always take them out and go back to the ankle weights... but I know its going to work... can non-club members view your article? Thanks for your reassuring input!

I have been thinking about trying this product down at the canal this season. A friend of mine discovered these and bought a couple of cases of them to share with our iceboat club (New England Ice Yacht Association Web Page (http://www.neiya.us)) this past winter so I bought a pair.

Traditionally I use the stableicers for iceboating but you have to replace the studs at least once a season as we regularly walk back and forth from pavement to ice setting up.

Initial testing of these have proven positive for our usage. I am not sure how they would work out for surfcasting or canal use but since I already own a pair it won't hurt to try.

Thought I would share the info as they are easy on and off and reasonably priced. I think the retail we paid was around $45.00 a pair. We used the diamond grip variation.

KAKO | Ice Cleats & Winter Traction | Slip & Fall Protection (http://www.icetrekkers.com/)

http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/cabelas/s7_831301_imageset_02?$main-Large$

These are the boots I got... felt soles, rubber spots to receive threaded spikes... boots are light, flexible, and under 60 bucks... going to be so much better swimming to a rock without the k-5000's

There are many products out there that will keep you from slipping on rocks... However, I am in search of a specific set up that suits my personal preferences and conditions I fish in... *light for long walks, * long spikes to penetrate thick weed, * convenience of not having to strap on Korkers all the time, * ability to swim in them. Sometimes its a pain to search and search and try stuff and waste money on experiments, but when you finally find the perfect fit you have been looking for, its worth it...

I'm just going to ride around on Eben's back.

http://sarcasticgamer.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/master-blaster.jpg

IP those are the boots I mentioned. Light weight. I have those in thestream cleat. They wern't available last summer else those would of been on my foot. PM me your e-mail address. I sent you a copy of the article.

http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/cabelas/s7_831301_imageset_02?$main-Large$

These are the boots I got... felt soles, rubber spots to receive threaded spikes... boots are light, flexible, and under 60 bucks... going to be so much better swimming to a rock without the k-5000's

There are many products out there that will keep you from slipping on rocks... However, I am in search of a specific set up that suits my personal preferences and conditions I fish in... *light for long walks, * long spikes to penetrate thick weed, * convenience of not having to strap on Korkers all the time, * ability to swim in them. Sometimes its a pain to search and search and try stuff and waste money on experiments, but when you finally find the perfect fit you have been looking for, its worth it...

fished with those boots all last season and never had a problem with them, not even a stud missing

I use the above boots, with the carbide spikes. I've been very pleased. They stay light even when wet.

Anyone have any luck finding a shoe rather then a boot that will hold these studs? Simms are a no go as they don't do the stream thread with their shoes. Something like the Korker torrent would be great but they don't make em with the interchangeable soles...

Probably the worst business plan you could present would be to come up with something that a fat guy could strap to his feet and jump up and down and walk around in two hundred hours a year and then to offer a lifetime replacement warranty to go with it. Might as well take out a loan to open a Jewish deli in Baghdad.

... Might as well take out a loan to open a Jewish deli in Baghdad.

F!U! You said you'd keep it hush hush!

I'm just going to ride around on Eben's back.

http://sarcasticgamer.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/master-blaster.jpg

maybe get some strap on roller skate attachments?

IP those are the boots I mentioned. Light weight. I have those in thestream cleat. They wern't available last summer else those would of been on my foot. PM me your e-mail address. I sent you a copy of the article.

pbadad did you have any problems with with the stock studs being a different height when you are out on the rocks?

I don't use the studs that came with the original boots. Just the snowmobile carbide studs.

3/4" SS Bolts with lock nuts.
Duct taped to my boot were the best for stability, grip and durability.

Plus, added workout. could lose 10lbs a night sweating on a long walk and build some serious calf muscles!

losing weight is over-rated... Obesity = status

I weigh 165... hard times

pete do you have both the studs, the ones that came with the ultralights and the wearbars? just trying to fig out how much of a difference in height it would be to throw some of the wearbars in there.

havent done it yet. new boots, wearbars are in the mail... But intend on using only the wearbars... not the small screws that came with the boots. Since the WB's are longer, the short screws wont even touch the rocks and are just along for the ride. If you already put in the small screws, I'm certain you can remove them, and put the wearbars in their place, since they have a wider thread than the provided screws. The screws that come with the boots are good for a few outings, (or trout) but the quickly round out and become very slippery... i tried sheet metal screws last year... worked ok for a few nights... I intend on putting 20 spikes on each boot... as soon as I get them, I'll take photos of my boots before, during install, and after in this thread... should be by the weekend.

ya i have the older model boots that came with the studs already in them, might try just pulling thoes out or just getting a new pair

losing weight is over-rated... Obesity = status

I weigh 165... hard times

hahahha thanks man, u always know how to make the big guy feel good..

The screws that come with the boots are good for a few outings, (or trout) but the quickly round out and become very slippery..

just checked my boots and the studs, sure enough rounded out pretty good like you said. glad you started this thread before i learned the hard way.

ivan ski, if the only reason you don't like korkers is because the soles pop off and you want a permanent studs the is a easy solution.
Bolt down the sole and replace the interchangeable stud soles when they wear out.

I have a question, what stud types and size can you add to an existing interchangeable stud sole without piercing the main boot inner sole

Posted from my i Phone/Mobile device

http://wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500-48.jpg

1/2 inch wear bars... just like these, but shorter threads...

and bolting just the sole of k-5000's to my boot is a good idea, but you would need alot of bolts all the way around the boot... any gap greater than inch or two and sand will pry its way in between, creating lumps (I'm speculating here) but good idea as well. I love hearing ideas...

Sorry for the confusion but I was referring to fastening the interchangeable soles to the "korker boots" not the korker sandal K-5000 to an ordinary wading boot.

What is the depth of the interchangeable stud soles of the "korker boots", hopefully greater then 1/2 inch ?
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

just got the simms headwaters and am putting on the 1/2" wearbars-could be the answer...i hope.

Some of the places I fish I need to be quiet going in so I don't wants studs crunching asphalt by people's homes. Need to be quiet.

walk in the dirt on the side of the road...:jump1:

Don you won't be dissappointed.

walk in the dirt on the side of the road...:jump1:
Just tell them you are demoing a new method of lawn aeration.

22 wearbars in each boot. i was going to put 2 more right in front of the 5 in the back but for some reason the boots didn't want to take them. all other studs went in fine without any problems. at first i was worried about the studs that went into the felt would sit higher but you can crank them down to just about the same height. you just have to be careful not to over tighten them. great idea by pete and bill!!! :cheers:

Nice job. The height difference is so slight I don't see a problem. I noticed that when I did mine but it wasn't an issue. With the 3/4' thread length studs you have the option to add a s.s. washer beneath the stud on the receptacle hole to further extend the stud out to match the sole mounted stud hieght. I will mention one caution, when standing on extremely heavy bubble weed check your stability by grinding for a grip. Thats the only negative difference between the ss screw modified Korkers and the studded boots. With the out of box Korkers the studs I did the same as the the studs are the same height.Good luck with the modification.

22 wearbars in each boot. i was going to put 2 more right in front of the 5 in the back but for some reason the boots didn't want to take them. all other studs went in fine without any problems. at first i was worried about the studs that went into the felt would sit higher but you can crank them down to just about the same height. you just have to be careful not to over tighten them. great idea by pete and bill!!! :cheers:

Thumper et all,

Let us know if the studs stay put after a few outings. I've also been looking at those boots.

DZ

walk in the dirt on the side of the road...:jump1: No dirt ;)


22 wearbars in each boot. i was going to put 2 more right in front of the 5 in the back but for some reason the boots didn't want to take them. all other studs went in fine without any problems. at first i was worried about the studs that went into the felt would sit higher but you can crank them down to just about the same height. you just have to be careful not to over tighten them. great idea by pete and bill!!! :cheers: Nice work gents - look forward to the results.

I will mention one caution, when standing on extremely heavy bubble weed check your stability by grinding for a grip. Thats the only negative difference between the ss screw modified Korkers and the studded boots. Can you clarify? I'm missing the difference - thanks!

i think billys referring to the difference in the amount of exposed metal between the two...the boot stud vs the end of the bolt plus the nut on the converted korkers..

John it sounds like the korker studs have less service area (sharper point) which leads to a better pearcing of the bubble weed then the SS bolts which have a larger surface area.

any rock i get on in the surf i usually always grind the surface just to see what im dealing with. i make sure to get a good purchase not only to cross some eyes but for when the three sisters come.

just got in from the first time using them. boots are very sticky on the rocks and i felt pretty confident with them on if a wave came. we will have to see how the studs hold up throughout the season but i think these are definitely a winner.

Thats great. The comfort and performance of these studded boots will bring pleasure to those rock hopping nights. Keep us posted. I have a few members going this route and they also have the same reasons for changing.

i think billys referring to the difference in the amount of exposed metal between the two...the boot stud vs the end of the bolt plus the nut on the converted korkers..

John it sounds like the korker studs have less service area (sharper point) which leads to a better pearcing of the bubble weed then the SS bolts which have a larger surface area.

just got in from the first time using them. boots are very sticky on the rocks and i felt pretty confident with them on if a wave came. we will have to see how the studs hold up throughout the season but i think these are definitely a winner.

Sounds good... How do the sizes on the boots run relative to regular sizes? Sometimes they say to order your regular show size (that they allow for the stocking foot) and they still come in way too small.

i orderd one size larger than my reg shoe size and they fit great. i hate when they tell you to order the same size as ur reg shoes, it never works.

I have both sizes in the boots. the one 1 size larger fit much nicer. Both work but I prefer the bigger one. cabelas says to order your shoe size LLbean says 1 size larger. keep in mind I wear size 14. There isn't many options. guidewear and ultra lights in 15 fit great. The ultra lights in 14 are ok w/ my breathables socking foot but the neoprene stocking foot has a 3.5 mm foot so it's tight. John if you need boots to thread the studs in go with the light cabelas ultra light boot. I've used them 7 years with great service. I have the the newer ones 2 yrs. I wish I bought the ultra lights in 15 but at the time last year they were not available in my cavernous size. The guide wear boot was. My buddy says I should of just studded the box!!!!!!

simms headwaters w/ wearbars :love: lightweight when wet and traction city...

A few close up shots of my boots with wearbars... looking forward to fishing without the ankle weights!

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4608203626_f8abe43632_o.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1424/4608204194_7a0d487c4e_o.jpg

22 spikes per boot (for now) 14 went into the rubber spots meant for stream screws, the rest were screwed straight into the felt... if you are looking to go this route and have felt bottoms without the fancy new rubber spots made to receive screws, dont worry... to be honest, the screws actually feel like they hold and tighten up better directly into the felt...




http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4608204732_127298bc7c_o.jpg

Nice looking . You used washers to bring up the stud height in the rubber receivers?

yes, in an attempt to equalize the height

We all know korkers are a must, but I hate the idea of the 2-pounds of rubber I strap on my feet to simply put a few studs under my feet. I dont like Korkers boots with interchangeable soles... the things fall off... an besides, i dont want to change the soles! I want spikes at all times, minus the extra weight... I think my winter-long quest may have ended. narrowed it down to 2 brands of screw-in carbide spikes that go directly into the sole of your boot, and stay there... (even when you walk into mobil for a coffee... sorry Dan!) The choice comes down to wearbars, or best-grip spikes... Wader Stud Info (http://www.best-grip-usa.com/hiking_boots/wader_stud_info.html)
the best grip have a super-wide thread that looks like they will stay put. Anyone use either of these? My new boots have felt soles with rubber spots for provided "stream screws" which are garbage, but will hold the ones I hope to buy. If anyone has any first hand experience, please share... I hope my days of surfcasting with Richard Simmons ankle weights will come to an end, and my mile long walks will be a bit lighter... I'll let you know how things go. Then I'm going to burn my korkers like those hippy broads burned their bras in the 60's!
http://www.wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500B-48.jpg
These are the wearbars... the best grips look even better

IP, my partner and I have used the same concept all last season. Block, Cutty, Squibnocket and local. Zero problems and convenient. I used the cabelas guide boot and he the Chotas. I added 7 more studs to the felt soles. total 21 spikes. These spikes are carbide and are used on snow machine tracks.Wear like iron. No signs of wear. Heck i'd be putting new studs in Korkers if they can be threaded twice ina season. I too had issues on long walks w/ 2 lb sandals. I did ss bolt route in the corkers soles also but the weight was a killer. You won't be dissappointed. I actually wrote an article for our club's newsletter this month on this concept. If you look at the cabelas Ultra-lite boots they now come with stud insert receivers. These are 1/2 the weight of the leather wading boots. I used these with the unreplaceable studs and they were very comfortable. I wish they came out b/4 I went and bought the leather ones. Either way this is a great improvement over the sandals.

Which ones did you get? I'm assuming you got the Aggressive stud but I want to be sure - thanks!

About Wader Studs | Premium Studs For Wader Boots (http://www.waderstuds.com/about_studs.php)

These are the ones you want

http://www.wearbars.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=246

25+ nights on narragansett's rocky coast, 4 trips to Block, Not one crushed spike, not one lost spike... I will never wear Korkers again... If you are wearing K-5000's after reading this thread, you're crazy...
ask yourself this question: is your personal comfort, as well as the added convenience of less gear
to pack worth 46 dollars? Then get on it... There is no more question or doubt if they work, hold up, or compare to korkers... they have been rigorously used and abused by at least a dozen guys on here.
Unless korkers actually makes a boot that has threaded receivers for their spikes directly built into the sole, I believe wearbars will quickly become the new standard in a few seasons... I tell so many people about them you'd think I was getting a commission! Do yourself a favor, order them YESTERDAY

I agree. I went Don's route with the Simms headwaters and wearbars and have been very happy. They've held up great and are more comfortable than I thought they would be. I did find it better going in dry rock when I removed the one stud under the ball of my foot (big toe side).

These are the ones you want

Wearbars.com - Product Details (http://www.wearbars.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=246)

25+ nights on narragansett's rocky coast, 4 trips to Block, Not one crushed spike, not one lost spike... I will never wear Korkers again... If you are wearing K-5000's after reading this thread, you are either stubborn, or just plan stupid.


THanks guys - that was what I was looking for - the earlier link didn't look just right.

John,
I probably outweigh those guys by 50-75 #s @ 230. I have torn out some studs and rolled some. Some of this is due to my boots, LLbean rivertreads, but I think it is also pounds per stud. Mine are wearbars. All that said I still like them better than Korkers and will not go back. The simms boots that I looked at have stiffer soles and should have less roll problems.

I think that the heavier you are, the more studs you should put on each boot... I have 22 studs per foot, but if you think about it, you are actually only in contact with a few at a time... so more spikes will help distribute your weight better, while sharing the load... it is important to note that I weigh 175 geared up

It looks like all the modifications are done on felt soles. Is it possible to do it on lug soles as well? I would think the sole would be too thin and the screw would hit your feet.

John, you'll really appreciate the Wearbars with boots over the Korkers. Since my article in the club paper, a few members changed over and have not looked back. I personally purchased the 3/4" length threaded studs. I put them in the Cabelas guide boots (which are very similar to Choata's) w/ a SS spacer washer below the stud to #1 bring up the stud hieght slighly, #2 to install in the felt portion w/o the screw reciever and #3 to keep the stud thread end from possibly coming through the inner sole . I did use them w/o and only had 1 come through on each boot. Everyone I see bought the 1/2" thread length version. Going on 2 seasons, no wearout of studs. Some did turn over slightly but it was the insert that turned over. You will realize once you wear them that the korkers use will be antiquated. Boot option is also the Calbelas Ultra -lights. They come with the inserts and weigh < 1 lb ea. I use a total 0f 21 in my boots. 14 inserts are in the boots. I add 7 to sole. I'll let you know where I put them if you're interested.

I use mine in Simms lug soles and they are fine.

John, you'll really appreciate the Wearbars with boots over the Korkers. Since my article in the club paper, a few members changed over and have not looked back. I personally purchased the 3/4" length threaded studs. I put them in the Cabelas guide boots (which are very similar to Choata's) w/ a SS spacer washer below the stud to #1 bring up the stud hieght slighly, #2 to install in the felt portion w/o the screw reciever and #3 to keep the stud thread end from possibly coming through the inner sole . I did use them w/o and only had 1 come through on each boot. Everyone I see bought the 1/2" thread length version. Going on 2 seasons, no wearout of studs. Some did turn over slightly but it was the insert that turned over. You will realize once you wear them that the korkers use will be antiquated. Boot option is also the Calbelas Ultra -lights. They come with the inserts and weigh < 1 lb ea. I use a total 0f 21 in my boots. 14 inserts are in the boots. I add 7 to sole. I'll let you know where I put them if you're interested.


Are you going to the CSA meeting tonight and if so, can you pls. bring your boots so I can see them. Not 100% sure if I'm going or not though.

Paul, I'll bring 1 boot to look at.

THanks guys - that was what I was looking for - the earlier link didn't look just right.

So John, did those boots work for you?
If so which ones were they and how did the sizing run?
Pete

Just loaded up my new boots with wearbars yesterday. Cant wait to put em to the test. However, being kind of lazy, i always considered fishing with korkers as exercise :).

However, being kind of lazy, i always considered fishing with korkers as exercise :).

And you look so much cooler with huge black rubber clown shoes on!

Nice. I'm convinced after reading this is the way to go.

so, can i get the 3/4" wearbars for the Cabellas Ultra Light 2's ?

Also, what size ss washer do I need to buy? I am kinda clumsy with nuts and bolts and would be cool if I went to the nutty company with the exact size in mind.

Thanks,

Ken

I dont know if the 3/4" would work or not, that would dig in pretty far. I didnt use washers. If i notice that it isnt cutting it as is, i will add them.

Rob... I have the 1/2 " wearbars... Keep in mind that felt compresses, and the tip of a 3/4" screw will likely stick you.

I was talking to pbadad about it and he mentioned that along with the ss washer, you may get away with it, but could have to grind down a few of them -

its a tough call at 50$ a set


thanks guys

the 1/2" ones are perfect...

I use simms rivershed boot with vibram sole. Perfect for me. The weight of the boot isn't that bad. I'm kinda in shape so the weight isn't an issue. As for the wearbars, I remove them after each season and screw them back in just next to the old hole.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I went 1/2" and they are installed now with 22 per boot.

I am looking forward to using them later on this year.

Thanks Ivan, pbadad, Thumper, and everyone else

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7895/dsci0050l.jpg

The spikes in the felt higher then those on the pods ?
How would you make them the same height ?
I am guessing a washer on the pods and no washer on the felt.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

yeah, ill add the washers when I get them

also, you screw the felt ones in a little tighter and it compresses the felt a little bit and goes in a little deeper, further leveling everything out (not crazy tight, just a little tighter)

I cant even see any height difference at all with the naked eye just doing what I did stated above

The spikes in the felt higher then those on the pods ?
How would you make them the same height ?
I am guessing a washer on the pods and no washer on the felt.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Old pair of boots, instead of throwing them away. Throw as many 3/8 stainless hex head screws in them.

One box of 3/8 stainless screws, $12 per 100 = 2-seasons of fishing

ODM - I can say, not even close to the wearbars as I did that for a few weeks prior to getting the wearbars ;) - Cheap & easy solution and perfectly fine for some areas but choose the wearbars when the need for grippiness increases

Wearbars = :love:

ODM - I can say, not even close to the wearbars as I did that for a few weeks prior to getting the wearbars ;) - Cheap & easy solution and perfectly fine for some areas but choose the wearbars when the need for grippiness increases

Wearbars = :love:

So are you going to share some of those fishing spots with me:buds:

So are you going to share some of those fishing spots with me:buds:
Well, the machine screws are likely better than wearbars on the deck f your boat :devil2: for example...

I used these last season and was very impressed with the wear bars. A lot of times I’m walking a considerable distance (mile+) over paved roads, sidewalks and rocks to get into areas I fish and I wasn’t too sure if the studs would hold up. Over the course of the season I had one of the tips break off of the wear bars and lost 2 out of the boots. I had to replace the boots at the end of the season due to some of the stitching coming undone (shredded by barnacles) but the studs held up very well and I was able to put them into the new boots for the upcoming season.

Old pair of boots, instead of throwing them away. Throw as many 3/8 stainless hex head screws in them.

One box of 3/8 stainless screws, $12 per 100 = 2-seasons of fishing

Mike, just get the Wearbars. I'm too old and weak to pull you out of the drink if you slip and go in.

I think Cabellas and Wearbars should be giving the site a VIG or something for all the FREEEE advertising they are gettin.

Mike, just get the Wearbars. I'm too old and weak to pull you out of the drink if you slip and go in.

With all of the boats and structures I have fallen off of fishing in the past, I still can't believe that I haven't fallen into the canal....
:rotfl::rotfl:

You will . . .
Nothing puts a divot in your shin like a good tumble on the rocks.

The only way to fly!!!

I have been using KOLDKUTTER screws for a couple years. they are screws for racing motorcycles on the ice. each screw has 6 points do to it's design.
a bag of ( 250 ) 3/8" screws run about $20..
No they don't last forever. yes I have had 1 or 2 pullout. when they dull it takes 10 minutes to change them all out and the cost is minimal..

wanted to bump this up and get some follow up info.

how are you guys liking this setup so far? I know thumper is loving them.

how do the boots fit? I wear a 12 in korker cross currents and need to order some cabelas boots.

These seems to be the way to go, the only reason i havent made the jump is I had a few pairs of korker insoles and extra studs laying around, but my korker insoles delaminated:smash: so i put a pair in from last season and lost 8 studs and the part they screw into on one outing:wall: so they need to go asap.

Thanks as always guys.

Don't give up on the Korker boots with the interchangeable soles. I glue in the felt ones with studs with Goop. They are light and that is important on long walks for an old timer like me. You can peel them off [carefully] because the Goop is rubbery when it cures.

Hey Chris, I have been wearing the Cabelas boots for years with the Korkers K5000 sandal over them...very heavy combo.

This year after doing some research here I ditched the sandals and installed the wearbars....after about 15-20 trips on the gansett rocks and breachways I am not going back to the sandals anytime soon. Since I am an individual with a robust frame I installed about 21 spikes per boot and I used washers under the stud to help distrbute the load a bit more.

It's no surprise I'm a huge fan, since i started this thread!

I made some modifications this season, as I got a new pair of boots and spikes over the winter...

When screwing into the felt, I have noticed that using a large washer (slightly smaller than a dime) with a very small hole for the screw to go through helps them stay upright. The large surface area of the big washer prevents them from leaning over time. I also coated the threads with marine epoxy right before installing.

I love them. I will NEVER... EVER... wear korkers, or a korkers brand product until they get it right... and I make a pretty convincing argument in person to not use Korkers if you ever meet me in person. I have spoken to korkers service dept. numerous times, and I swear they are allergic to money over there, and refuse to even acknowledge the value in my idea of a boot with receiver threads built right INTO the sole so you can screw in their spikes. (Surfcasters must still be too small a niche market for them to bother)

Seems they are content with making interchangeable sole boots that do 5 different things poorly, rather than a boot that does one thing damn well.

This has been one of the most informative threads on SB. I started using the wear bars this year and love em. I havent broken off a stud yet and havent fallen on my arse either. They grip like korkers. Next pair of boots i will be using washers as well. Something to give it just a bit more distance between the studs and my feet. A couple of them create pressure points. Ok for the first 3 hours or so, but gets tough after that.

Guys,
First off, thanks a million times for this thread. I've been using the 1/2" wearbars in my Korkers boots (felt sole) this season and it's really been amazing. Now my question..
I've been losing a couple of studs here and there after long walks and fishing sessions in some nasty, rocky areas. I also need to re-tighten the wearbars before trips. One thought is that the felt has gotten too compressed over time (couple seasons old) and isn't giving enough to bite into.
Anyway, curious to know if anyone else is losing studs and if you've come up with any solutions?
Again, thanks for the help.
Andrew

I have yet to see a review on the durability on the newer style 2011 korker boots. Anyone out here with experience on these boots.
______________________

The fact that studs fall out and damaging the rubber footing make me hesitant on acquiring the ultralite wearbar boots.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

here's my alternative to korkers which i'm loving so far this season. N. Face trail/wet shoes, on the closeout table at ems for like 35 bucks. and screw in simms "hard bite" 2 piece cleats made for their wader boots. just screwed them into the rubber, boom. havent lost one yet. awesome for the ditch, and the jetty's round here. dont mind if the feet are in the water they dry out quick. pretty much eliminated the use of my k5000's unless i really need em rock hopping down in rhody. i freakin love em

I went 1/2" and they are installed now with 22 per boot.

I am looking forward to using them later on this year.

Thanks Ivan, pbadad, Thumper, and everyone else

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7895/dsci0050l.jpg
I am on my second year with the 1/2" Wearbars. Granted I only fish the canal a month in the Spring and 6 weeks in the Fall but they are worth every penny I paid. I LOVE them. I have them on a pair of cabelas felt sole wading boots.

ACHASE: this year i dipped the threads in marine epoxy prior to installation. a few do loosen every now and then . one thing i have found is that large washers with small hole help keep them upright. i will post a pic of my new set up...

I strongly urge as many people as possible to email korkers a link to this thread in order to give them a glimpse of what we need and want... not what they THINK we need or want.


Send a brief, polite, concise, and convincing email to:

SamH@Korkers.com

Sam Houser
Korkers Sales & Marketing Support Coordinator
800-524-8899

I have been emailing him for the last 2 years... he is convinced that I simply dont know what I want, and that their interchangeable (GARBAGE) soles are the answer to all my troubles.

I have basically been telling him that they need to make a bood with receiver threads built directly INTO the sole, so spikes can be screwed in, and LEFT IN...

If he gets enough emails, he'll get the idea that it's not just one guy looking for this type of boot.

If they fit horse calks then us big boys would'nt have issues with them rolling out. Dover Saddlery | Large Selection of Quality Horse Shoe Studs. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_126)

Guys,
First off, thanks a million times for this thread. I've been using the 1/2" wearbars in my Korkers boots (felt sole) this season and it's really been amazing. Now my question..
I've been losing a couple of studs here and there after long walks and fishing sessions in some nasty, rocky areas. I also need to re-tighten the wearbars before trips. One thought is that the felt has gotten too compressed over time (couple seasons old) and isn't giving enough to bite into.
Anyway, curious to know if anyone else is losing studs and if you've come up with any solutions?
Again, thanks for the help.
Andrew

I use the 3/4" threaded studs in my Cabelas guide boots. The threaded receiver uses a nip taken off the thread to about 1/2" then I thread the full length in the felt sole w/o the receiver. I use 21 in my boot sole. I think 13 in the receivers and the rest in the feltsole. OK for now.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Think I'll take out all my wearbars and re-thread w/ the epoxy. Might do it with the washers but I'm a bit scared about reducing the number of threads threads biting into the felt.
Not having to wear the korker's sandals over my boots has been life-changing. Really great!
By the way, I tried the Kold Kutter screws suggested in one of the posts
in this thread in another pair of boots and they're pretty grippy but the head-height is just not enough to bite through weed-covered rocks even after giving them a good scraping-off with the bottom of my boot.
I'm sure the'll be good for something, though.
Ivan, I will write to Korkers.

I just ordered the 3000B - 2 -20 packs and a tool to install / remove them. $80 with shipping. I'll have them tomorrow and will update on performance as soon can get them down to the canal for the east tide.

http://www.gripstuds.com/wader_studs/wader_studs.html

I look forward to hearing how the grip-studs hold up with the extra wide thread... As much as I will appreciate a performance review after a couple outings, the real valuable information lies in a review at the end of a season... how they hold up after 50+ nights. Please keep us posted!!!

The pro grip studs have an extra wide grip which is a positive feature. The problem would be that if a washer were to be used the inner diameter of the washer would be to large for such stud.
Let us know how it holds up as they are used throughout the season.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I have a pair of Cabelas lightweight boots--felt soles w/places to screw in studs. I put Wearbars in and they're holding up well. You would think the boots are too clunky to swim in, but I manage OK. I also have a pair of Korker Torrents and a pair of the original lace on sandal types. I like the Cabelas modified w/Wearbars the best of the 3.

Guys,
Need to ask for more insight, especially from those who like ivanputski used epoxy on their wearbars.
I re-did my wearbars using the washers and used marine epoxy on the threads. Here's my question.
Did those of you who did this find that the epoxy "greased" the threads so that they wanted to keep spinning even after the screw was fully embedded?
The first time I put my wearbars in without epoxy they grabbed the felt and when fully sunk in became completely tight. Even after a few weeks of hard wear when some studs loosened a little, I could screw them back in tightly.
When I re-did them today I drilled them into virgin felt but with the epoxy they still spun after being fully threaded. I'm hoping once they're fully cured that they'll hold fast but I'm a little concerned.
What say you??
Thanks,
Andrew

Andrew - could be that you drilled too wide of the stud shank? Is it spinning after the epoxy dried was removed? Which epoxy are you using?

Guys, are you buying the 1/2" threaded studs? If you have thick boot sole , go to the 3/4" thread length. You appreciate the extra length when putting them in a virgin felt sole w/o a thread receptable. They may be a hair long for the receptable holes. Just touch them with a grinder about1/8". I did mine as most of you have read in the past w/3/4" w/o grinding first. Only a few made it barely through. With the addition of washers the added length is key. You can always make them shorter but you can't add length. On the subject of length, does Wearbar make a longer stud. There have been times that the 3/8" exposed length isn't enough to grip weed and secure your footing when a wave washes over. I would like a 1/2" external protrusion. The receptable for the studs are recessed. This makes the external stud exposure less than it is. They remain the length with the plain felt sole installation.

John,
I'm not drilling, I'm screwing the wearbars directly into the Korkers felt soles. The epoxy isn't dry yet so I don't know if they'll have more staying power than before. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive.
Billy,
I think going with the 3/4" stud might be the way to go. I should have done a test-run with a plain screw before deciding on length.
I know these things are expensive but if the longer ones work it'll be worth it.
Has anyone tried using the Korkers lug sole as opposed to the felt for screwing into? The ones that come w/ the Cross-Current and Guide Boot?

BTW, with all the above said, the boots with studs is a HUGE improvement over wearing Korkers sandals over boots without studs. It just needs tweaking.

Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Andrew

John,
I'm not drilling, I'm screwing the wearbars directly into the Korkers felt soles. The epoxy isn't dry yet so I don't know if they'll have more staying power than before. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive.
Billy,
I think going with the 3/4" stud might be the way to go. I should have done a test-run with a plain screw before deciding on length.
I know these things are expensive but if the longer ones work it'll be worth it.
Has anyone tried using the Korkers lug sole as opposed to the felt for screwing into? The ones that come w/ the Cross-Current and Guide Boot?

BTW, with all the above said, the boots with studs is a HUGE improvement over wearing Korkers sandals over boots without studs. It just needs tweaking.

Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Andrew

I'm getting ready to load my new ultralights and was wondering how the epoxy worked out? Did it help?

I used epoxy on mine and had the same issue with them spinning until they were completey dry.

I re did a few with clear locite plumbers epoxy and that seemed to work better.

I have lost a few studs but I'm a big guy, 275 with all my gear and most of my spots require a long walk so I expect to Lose a few.

The studs grip to everything! I fished some of the most angled rocks ever on a recent trip and the boots kept me locked down.

There overkill in some areas but I like having them when I need them. Some of my rocks have an inch of growth on them and not weeds but baby barnacles and sea life, the boots just cut right through it.

As far as swimming in them, not an issue, they do seem heavier when you take them off and there soaked but I did some long swims out on block and was fine, didn't notice the added weight.

Still a million times better than anything korker makes! there stuff is 
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I recently bought a new pair of boots to replace my Cross Currents that lasted roughly 2 years. After countless amounts of shoe glue to keep them together I threw in the towel and purchased a pair of Cabelas Guidewear boots, and wearbars.

The style of these boots are very similar to the Chota's for less money.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u306/patsfan6236/Fishing%20Sale/s7_831298_143_01.jpg

Here's the laundry list of supplies that I used for the install
Devcon- Marine epoxy
16-1/2" wearbars
SS-star washers
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u306/patsfan6236/Fishing%20Sale/IMG_20120116_161454-1.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u306/patsfan6236/Fishing%20Sale/IMG_20120116_155741-1.jpg

I installed the studs in between the lugs just as a preference rather than on the lugs themselves.

I didn't have an particular pattern for the studs I just wanted to have them spaced out evenly throughout the toe and heel.

In a few months I'll give them a test run hopefully with good results.

Has anyone noticed the old school korkers run a little smaller than they used to? An XL korker 5000 doesn't fit a size 13 foot boot anymore(before they used to fit perfectly). Anyone notice if the new lace-ups are running on the small side as well? Thanks...

for anyone who cares the ultralights with 24 wearbars on each foot weigh 29oz each, or 3lbs 10oz per pair.

This is the dry weight of the boots.

I have the boots soaking right now and will post a wet weight in a little while.

wet weight per boot is 2.5lbs, or 40oz each.

i soaked them for 2 hours, which is like fishing, usually my feet are always submerged, then i let them hang upside down for about a half hour to simulate walking.

So in total there about 5 pound give or take on your feet when there wet, also mine are a size 12.

I have not weighted a pair of Korkers 5000's but that's probably the weight of them alone.

Like cement shoes....
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Losing the k-5000's and switching to wearbars made such an incredible difference... I cant believe that I used to walk miles with those frankenstein boots... Clumsy and heavy as hell.

Just wish that the screw-in idea could be improved by a manufacturer, since the draw-back of wearbars is the squishy-feel that comes from them leaning and moving at times... I usually have to hand-tighten half a dozen before every outing, but even with their downsides, they are WAY better than korkers!

In regards to epoxy does it matter if is regular epoxy and not marine.
I don't think there is a difference for this application, what say you.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I am going to try marine... regular epoxy didnt do well for me... it gets brittle and cracks after outings in the salt. A slightly flexible adhesive would actually be the ideal solution

I bet a waterproof, flexible, sticks to rubber, sticks to metal adhesive would be the ticket.....


Hmmmm,,,
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Hey Gatta... are these the spikes you were looking into? Called "Grip studs"... I was looking at these last winter, but didnt buy them... They have a much wider thread, which should translate to much less leaning from walking. anyone try them? I really think I might try these...

http://www.gripstuds.com/documents/t_3000B_StudN_2.jpg

Wader Boots (http://www.gripstuds.com/wader_studs/wader_studs.html)

I just ordered the 3000B - 2 -20 packs and a tool to install / remove them. $80 with shipping. I'll have them tomorrow and will update on performance as soon can get them down to the canal for the east tide.

Wader Boots (http://www.gripstuds.com/wader_studs/wader_studs.html)

After one season, here's my review.

These were not so good in a soft rubber application. They don't' fall out but they compress into the soft rubber, such as muck boot bottom waders. They definitely provided enough grip to continue to mess with safely. I never tried them in my the cabbalas ultralights.

In a hard sole, they were great, but I couldn't find any hard sole shoe that worked well for a surf application. I tried them in an old pair of leather, low top, work boots. You couldn't beat the grip and hold but they felt like bricks, once they got wet. May be ok for the ditch if you don't' get them wet...All in all, the ware bars are far superior.

Funny thing about this thread. It gets me really pumped for fishing for some reason.

I am going to try marine... regular epoxy didnt do well for me... it gets brittle and cracks after outings in the salt. A slightly flexible adhesive would actually be the ideal solution

Try 5200 marine adhesive. You can get it at any store that sells boat stuff. It stays flexible and is permanent on porous surfaces.

Thanks... I read up on the 5200, and that seems to be a great option... Flexibility while maintaining adhesion is the key to keeping the wearbars in place and to prevent loosening over time.
The marine epoxy I used in the past was too rigid, and eventually just cracks.
Even though I dip the entire thread in the adhesive prior to screwing in the spike, only a very small amount actually stays on the thread, since the felt or rubber sole acts as a squeegy as the threads enter the sole... but Every little bit counts.

NOW... question is, do I run out and buy new rubber sole boots for 2012 because RI DEM officers have difficulty distinguishing the difference between fresh and salt water??? Maybe when they wear out... but for now, go jump in a lake... or an ocean... or any brackish water. "Ease of enforcement"... what a joke. If you dont know the difference, you're not qualified for the job, Period.

I will be trying them this year. I have some concerns on the length of the stud and if they will roll over.

Time will tell.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Thanks... I read up on the 5200, and that seems to be a great option... Flexibility while maintaining adhesion is the key to keeping the wearbars in place and to prevent loosening over time.
The marine epoxy I used in the past was too rigid, and eventually just cracks.
Even though I dip the entire thread in the adhesive prior to screwing in the spike, only a very small amount actually stays on the thread, since the felt or rubber sole acts as a squeegy as the threads enter the sole... but Every little bit counts.

NOW... question is, do I run out and buy new rubber sole boots for 2012 because RI DEM officers have difficulty distinguishing the difference between fresh and salt water??? Maybe when they wear out... but for now, go jump in a lake... or an ocean... or any brackish water...

Try filling the hole with the adhesive and coating the threads. This will insure that adhesive is forced into the felt.

I fish mostly in mass so I don't have to worry about the felt ban yet. Though I do plan to venture down into RI this year. Let me know if you go rubber and how it works out with the 5200. May need to get a pair of rubbas too.

Idea.

Solder or weld the washer to the wearbar. Then apply epoxy to both the treads and backside of the washer before screw down.

I have yet to see a review on the durability on the newer style 2011 korker boots. Anyone out here with experience on these boots.
______________________

The fact that studs fall out and damaging the rubber footing make me hesitant on acquiring the ultralite wearbar boots.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

kinda "eh" mine are already falling apart after less than a season. the soles still hold a TON of sand and try to pop out on you.

Anybody put the wearbars into the korker soles?

Hey Gatta... are these the spikes you were looking into? Called "Grip studs"... I was looking at these last winter, but didnt buy them... They have a much wider thread, which should translate to much less leaning from walking. anyone try them? I really think I might try these...

http://www.gripstuds.com/documents/t_3000B_StudN_2.jpg

Wader Boots (http://www.gripstuds.com/wader_studs/wader_studs.html)

After one season, here's my review.

These were not so good in a soft rubber application. They don't' fall out but they compress into the soft rubber, such as muck boot bottom waders. They definitely provided enough grip to continue to mess with safely. I never tried them in my the cabbalas ultralights.

In a hard sole, they were great, but I couldn't find any hard sole shoe that worked well for a surf application. I tried them in an old pair of leather, low top, work boots. You couldn't beat the grip and hold but they felt like bricks, once they got wet. May be ok for the ditch if you don't' get them wet...All in all, the ware bars are far superior.

I must say I was a little disappointed with the size of these studs. I originally bought these as an alternative to the wearbars. They didn't seem like they would be a good option for the bubbleweed rocks that I'm constantly climbing onto. they just didn't have the length I was looking for. That being said I threw them into my Beans bootfoots for my adventures up to the ditch.

I did look around on their website and they have a ton of studs for different applications, the ones that seem like they'd be killer were the studs that they install in MotoX bikes. Same concept as the #3000 just much longer.

That being said I went and bought the wearbars, and I really can't wait to dig in with these babies! :)

#1800R is the closest stud grip size compared to wearbars. The stud will penetrate your boot 0.64in and will have 0.31in of a stud exposed. Compared to wear bars that have 0.5in penetration and 0.375in exposed. The only obvious problem is how thick you sole is.

I have been wearing the Simms Freestone (felt sole) boot for two years and havent had any problems. I used the Simms hard-bite screws with carbide "pimples". There is no height difference after you wear them a few times, as they sit about 1/32 above the sole. I added 3 more per boot this year and made them even better. Like wearing a slipper. Might need to replace them next year because they are beat up

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has an updated review of the Grip Studs solution. Specifically interested in their longevity in rubber soles both soft and hard.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has an updated review of the Grip Studs solution. Specifically interested in their longevity in rubber soles both soft and hard.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

After a season in my bootfoot waders, they did lean over. The sole is soft so some of them even pushed into the sole. On the plus side they never came out.

When trying to relocate them to another spot on the boot it was a pain in the a$$ to get the tool to stay put in the studs grooves.

I highly recommend the Korkers Redside rev. 3. I wore them all season and they are light and tough. So much lighter and easy to maneuver in than my old Cabelas' UL 2 in combo with the modded Korker 1100s. They also dry fast unlike the Cabelas.

I wore them on the bubble weeded rocks, on the soft sand, and on the jetty. Never once did I have a prob with the sole coming off and I used them close to 200 hours. I've read where some had problems with these boots around muddy areas, and although I don't regularly hit mud flats, I've walked though them w/o any issues. I believe Korkers corrected that problem with the new revision in 2012. They stuck with the same revision for 2013.

I used the studded rubber soles for the real slippery rocks and weed. The regular felt for everywhere else. The stock rubber soles are useless anywhere near any rocky or wet surface IMO. It takes about 30 seconds to change a sole out. My personal 'product of the year'.