I'm trying to build a needle that noses the surface for the V-wake, but still be slim and reasonably-weighted so it casts well.

I notice the thinner the profile, the harder it is to get it to rise on a slow retrieve. I assume one cause is surface area...Meaning, there's less lift against the water as it's retrieved(?)

Just trying to get some insight as a muddle my way through my first successful* "V-wake needle".

* "Successful" = Approx 7", thin profile, casts well (at least throws farther than a rigged Slug-Go), and "V's" without too much of ass-down attitude. A calm-water plug for night.

The more the tail weight (ie the further back the balance point), the steeper its angle of attack and the faster it comes up. The longer the needle the more the surface area and the faster it comes up.

Look at a superstrike needle

Superstrikes won't V when retrieved slowly though, right? Don't they sink?

I suggest a tail weighted needle,, as previously stated...

The amount of weight would depend on the length of the needle,,,

you need to correct your weighting bud.
a needle can go thourh the water horiz and produce that v wake, if you aint getting it it aint right on the weighting. a slow sinker will rise to the top. a floater well will float. they should go through the air on a cast almost with a cork screw type flight. Ya buildem the way ya want to fishem, adjust the position of ya weight an the amount
:spam:Master wuz here

you need to correct your weighting bud.
a needle can go thourh the water horiz and produce that v wake, if you aint getting it it aint right on the weighting. a slow sinker will rise to the top. a floater well will float. they should go through the air on a cast almost with a cork screw type flight. Ya buildem the way ya want to fishem, adjust the position of ya weight an the amount
:spam:Master wuz here

I appreciate the input. The flight description helps a lot.

Back to the lab...

Turn a half a dozen same shape. I'd do 7 inches. Only put one weight in each, on the bottom. Enough weight to make them slow sinkers. Do one 4 inches from nose, one 4-1/2 etc. You will figure out what the weight placement effect is pretty quick.

I appreciate the input. The flight description helps a lot.

Back to the lab...
Ima give you a hint, once you got the weighting donw, it dont matter what ya kake fer a nerdle, it will werk...............:spam:master
hates fishing.........

Ima give you a hint, once you got the weighting donw, it dont matter what ya kake fer a nerdle, it will werk...............:spam:master
hates fishing.........


I can see the meds are working again :rotf2:
I drove right past your house last week , I checked the dump also , could not find you any place
VB

Eric,
One of the better (if not the best) commercial wake producing needles is the Gibbs 1 3/4 ounce model. Check out the weight distribution. Were made from sugar pine.

DZ

Try a different wood. Boyancy is very important to get what you want not just the weight, Ron

I appreciate all the responses.

I switched to EW Pine for these slim, short needles; a denser wood wouldn't plane-up at a really slow speed.

Wow, lot to learn.

Think of this. One short heavy weigh at the tail makes a plug cast good.but it will sit tail down and takes a faster retreive to get it on top. Take the same weight and make it longer so that it is now spread out through the center of the plug towards the belly hook and it will change the angle that the plug sits in the water so that it comes up on top easier. Think of how spooks are weighted. Ron

Think of this. One short heavy weigh at the tail makes a plug cast good.but it will sit tail down and takes a faster retreive to get it on top. Take the same weight and make it longer so that it is now spread out through the center of the plug towards the belly hook and it will change the angle that the plug sits in the water so that it comes up on top easier. Think of how spooks are weighted. Ron

Funny you mentioned that -- I cut the wire off a Gibbs' floater yesterday to see what it had for a tail weight. It was about .3oz, but it was long and narrow.

I have to make a few hardwood lead molds to match this -- using the shorter, heavier tail weights is messing-up the angle of the needle.

That is why I said look at a superstrike, a very good needle and weighted differently than your typical wooden one. and no, it's not weighted like a gibbs.

All good info -- thank you.