Any of you guys using this connection?

I've been trying it as a wind on leader for spinning tackle (in order to get rid of the swivel and get more abrasion protection).
Pain in the arse to tie (and tough on the teeth)but very strong and low profile. Still catches some on the guides going out, so not perfect.

My problem with it is that the final locking hitches gradually come undone. Any ideas on dealing with this. Tried singeing it and crazy glue so far with poor results.

For those unfamilar with the knot here is a link YouTube - FG knot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e9XgPsWZao&feature=player_embedded) although there are faster ways (and even tools) to tie it.

Sorry for that link, it is painfully slow but thorough. There are much faster ways to tie it. This guy is more my style, and my dentist probably likes him, too.

YouTube - Simply FG??? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YczssyQtZZo&feature=related)

I use it and love it. I haven't had any issues Yet. It's a PIA to tie, but I use it as SORT OF a shock leader on my spinning gear. as long as you don't wind it onto your spool (I know, that what shock leaders are for) it passes through guides like butta. I use it so I can have ~ 8ft of 50 lb leader, a swivel, than my normal 5-6 ft leader. Gives me an effective leader length of 13+ feet and really helps a ton w/braid in the rocks.

I started using this FG knot. The knot profile is the thinnest yet; therefore, it is the best knot casting through the guides that I have ever tied. However, I tie the knot as taught a year ago in Sportfishing Mag publication: The leader mono is not widened by burning. Instead, it is ended in a beveling "Samos slice" with a razor or a scalpel. Then the row of half hitches easily and seamlessly cover the mono taper at the mono tag end.

Interesting, your video showing the instructor setting up three separate rows of 8-wrap Chinese fingers. I only use one row of about a dozen, then Samos slice bevel the mono tag and run the row of half hitches. Good for a 41.5 lb. bass so far, and more recently, ten thousand fishless Canal power casts.

I still need a reliable backup knot in my technical quiver for rerigging under so-called "field" conditions, such as at night and your are tying by headlamp on some miserable pile of rocks while your buddy's (usually the Numbskull's) drag is ZZZZing with his third hookup in a row. Then I'll use a quick Slim Jim.

OMG George I haven't got the patience for that knot. Looks really low profile but I was lost 40 seconds into the first video. I was waiting for him to rip a tooth out too.

I use hollow core braid and splice about 10' of a 30' piece of fluorocarbon into the braid and secure it with Zap a gap (1"-2") which gives me a total of 30' of abrasion resistance (10' of the braid with flouro inside and 20' of just the fluoro) and it passes through the guides like a hot knife through butter and because of the spiced line having a larger diameter there is no need for finger protection with my spinning reel.

What type of hollow core? I left JB 60 on my 250 after a tuna trip and had a ton of problems with wind knots in the surf... Had to go back to the sufix to fix it.

What type of hollow core? I left JB 60 on my 250 after a tuna trip and had a ton of problems with wind knots in the surf... Had to go back to the sufix to fix it.

Right now it's JB 80# and I hope my 60# Power pro hollow ace shows up this week. The 80# JB is a 16 strand and I think the JB 60# is only 12 strand which may be the difference. I was originally looking to get 50#-65# but at the time the only 16 strand under 80#was Toray Blackwater and I could not justify the cost for the Blackwater; 50# is $380 for 500yards and 65# is $266 where as my 80# JB was only $130 for 600yards. The Power pro hollow ace (16 strand) was $119 for 500 yards of 60#. It's very expensive because of the time it takes to make the 16 strand; especially under 80#. If I was trolling and not casting I would use half hitches using floss to secure the splice like I used to do when fishing Bluefin tuna with 130# Dacron (the half hitches go through the guides but I feel it reduces the distance greatly and find the same when I have used the Uni to Uni connection). Do you use a swivel?

I use hollow core braid and splice about 10' of a 30' piece of fluorocarbon into the braid and secure it with Zap a gap (1"-2") ..........

Hmmmmmmmm......I'd tried this but only for 6-12" with 40# fluoro inside 60 hollow core power pro anchored by a whip finish but it didn't hold. Was using a v-wire to make the splice. 10 feet sounds like a long run....presumably you need a special needle for that. Can you get a single needle specific for the size fluoro or do you need to spring for the whole kit (@$100 I think)?

Good for a 41.5 lb. bass so far, and more recently, ten thousand fishless Canal power casts.


If you call what you're doing in the canal a "power cast" then it is time to double your Viagra dose.

I don't see me tying that knot in the dark knee deep in the suds after a break-off...ever.

I like the low profile but I'll stick to my double uni and keep the knot outside of the guides.

If I wanted a long low profile leader, I think I would rather have the hollow core braid and skip the knot all together, they now make it down to 40# test I think.

Hmmmmmmmm......I'd tried this but only for 6-12" with 40# fluoro inside 60 hollow core power pro anchored by a whip finish but it didn't hold.

Need to finish it with a PR Knot bobbin the same way a Windon is made.

If you splice the loop small enough in the hollow you can use BHP or Streamline windons. Their loops are very small and cast very well and it all comes out to 100% strength connection.

Hmmmmmmmm......I'd tried this but only for 6-12" with 40# fluoro inside 60 hollow core power pro anchored by a whip finish but it didn't hold. Was using a v-wire to make the splice. 10 feet sounds like a long run....presumably you need a special needle for that. Can you get a single needle specific for the size fluoro or do you need to spring for the whole kit (@$100 I think)?
6"-12" is not going to work, you need at least 3 feet I would use 50#or 60# fluoro inside of the 60# braid the larger diameter fluoro helps the splice hold better. You have to use a needle which will make the splicing allot easier, and once you start the splice using the needle you can get 10' in a short amount of time. You can purchase the needles individually for about $15 plus shipping (web search Charkbait or Anglers center or even DaHo needles). It takes some time to splice 10'-12' but in my warped mind the time is worth it to have 30' of more abrasion resistant line, and with 20' of fluoro you can just cut back the leader when damaged. If I was fishing where there was no fear of a fish getting into rocks I would just use a uni to a swivel (I like Spro SHSB-04-5 240# swivels and Breakaway fast link FL1 80#).
This is my first season using braid again so I am no expert with braid and just offered what I am trying as an option; so make your own decision before making the investment or wait to see if I don't like it (which I'll post) but for now I'm somewhat impressed by the 16 strand braid and the splice technique.
I do watch for any slippage but since going to about 2 inches of Zap a gap (green label) on the braid where the flouro enters the braid and I haven't found any, just make sure to use your fingers to taper the glue where it goes on the fluoro at the braid end and keep a bottle of zap a gap with you if the leader does slip (only glue the point where the fluoro enters the braid because it is when the tension is placed on the line that the inside diameter of the braid decreases causing the Chinese finger cuff like grip).
Check out Charkbait or Anglers Center for more info.

Thanks. Very helpful post.

Need to finish it with a PR Knot bobbin the same way a Windon is made.

If you splice the loop small enough in the hollow you can use BHP or Streamline windons. Their loops are very small and cast very well and it all comes out to 100% strength connection.

I don't have any loop? I splice the fluoro straight into the braid and was told unlike dacron you do not have to come out of the braid and renter while splicing. It's still new to me but it seems to work, I suppose time will tell.

Hmmmmmmmm......I'd tried this but only for 6-12" with 40# fluoro inside 60 hollow core power pro anchored by a whip finish but it didn't hold. Was using a v-wire to make the splice. 10 feet sounds like a long run....presumably you need a special needle for that. Can you get a single needle specific for the size fluoro or do you need to spring for the whole kit (@$100 I think)?

Numby,
Thanks for the video's!

Instead of using a needle to splice the flouro and braid, take a lighter to the tip of the flouro to make it round. Try not to make it larger than the dia. of the flouro. It slides through the hollow core alot easier than a pointed end. I usually do this during a Red Sox game.

Hope this helps,
Mike

Any of you guys using this connection?

I've been trying it as a wind on leader for spinning tackle (in order to get rid of the swivel and get more abrasion protection).
Pain in the arse to tie (and tough on the teeth)but very strong and low profile. Still catches some on the guides going out, so not perfect.

My problem with it is that the final locking hitches gradually come undone. Any ideas on dealing with this. Tried singeing it and crazy glue so far with poor results.

For those unfamilar with the knot here is a link YouTube - FG knot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e9XgPsWZao&feature=player_embedded) although there are faster ways (and even tools) to tie it.

I use the Gorrilla glue brand of super glue.. works for me.

6"-12" is not going to work, you need at least 3 feet I would use 50#or 60# fluoro inside of the 60# braid the larger diameter fluoro helps the splice hold better. You have to use a needle which will make the splicing allot easier, and once you start the splice using the needle you can get 10' in a short amount of time. You can purchase the needles individually for about $15 plus shipping (web search Charkbait or Anglers center or even DaHo needles). It takes some time to splice 10'-12' but in my warped mind the time is worth it to have 30' of more abrasion resistant line, and with 20' of fluoro you can just cut back the leader when damaged. If I was fishing where there was no fear of a fish getting into rocks I would just use a uni to a swivel (I like Spro SHSB-04-5 240# swivels and Breakaway fast link FL1 80#).
This is my first season using braid again so I am no expert with braid and just offered what I am trying as an option; so make your own decision before making the investment or wait to see if I don't like it (which I'll post) but for now I'm somewhat impressed by the 16 strand braid and the splice technique.
I do watch for any slippage but since going to about 2 inches of Zap a gap (green label) on the braid where the flouro enters the braid and I haven't found any, just make sure to use your fingers to taper the glue where it goes on the fluoro at the braid end and keep a bottle of zap a gap with you if the leader does slip (only glue the point where the fluoro enters the braid because it is when the tension is placed on the line that the inside diameter of the braid decreases causing the Chinese finger cuff like grip).
Check out Charkbait or Anglers Center for more info.

I use windon leaders, loop to loop for gear bass to tuna. Been making my own this year. I do a splice of 4 to 6" JB 60 hollow with 50 lb mono or JB hollow 80 to 80-100 mono.

I bought one needle for 80lb mono ,and have been able to use it thru the range. On the tigheter stuff, you need to sand down or angle the mono to get it in. Insert for 6", add a dab of glue to hold it temporarily. Then I do a serve at the transition and they've have been holding up fine.

you guys are way too technical for me, or i am just plain too dumb. I honestly think if I tried that knot I would be too nervous I did it wrong and have no confidence it would hold up.I am assuming you are using this for bass and are you trying this because the uni to uni is too big? I like that knot and simple for a numbskull like me.

Paul, no way to be sure but I'd bet you could match wits with the guy in the second video and at least get a draw.

Actually, tying the thing is harder on your teeth than brain....but they do make tools to tie it and that ought to perk your interest.

LOL. you have sparked my interest though and then my stubborn Irish heritage will become involved and then I will be up for days trying to tie the damn thing but like i said it looks so complicated that I would not even know if I did it right, i kept waiting for the guy to finish the thing and he kept tying and then pulled it tight and started tying again and again. I was like when the hell is it done. Knot is going to be 5 inches long. I guess if I get some time I will give it a go just to say i tried.

Geeze, I almost lose a tooth tying my shoes, there's no way I'm trying that "rope trick"!