Anyone know anything about this Blank?

what are you looking to do with the blank?

i have a chance to pick one up that needs a little work, a tip and a rod seat and maybe 1 other guide for about 100 bucks. I was wondering if its good for plugging and maybe some jigging, was also wondering about its casting abilities. i found it on Lami's site states 2-6oz 1 piece.

I had the rod and sold it. I did like it though, its a great plugging blank. I had 6" taken off of the top after a while so it would fit in my truck. Its great for throwing eels. I now throw a super surf 11' that i prefer, it recovers a bit faster on the cast but wouldnt hesitate to get another 1321, especially if it was an M.

great blank. very parabolic. it'll bend into the butt. good for 1-2.5oz. it'll throw 3oz comfortably if wrapped with a NGC layout. OK price IMO.

I use my custom a lot. It will throw 1 -3.25 oz. Great pencil and needle rod.

I also saw the one you are looking at, but I didn't want to spend $100+ to rewrap it and put a plate seat on it. I already did this 3-4 years ago and mine works great with new guides.

If you are looking for 2-6 especially for the canal, why don't you check out the 10'6" mojo NEW for $240. That is what you will wind up spending in total anyway.

Are Mojos really made in Mexico. . . . really ?

It wouldn't surprise me. Very little still made in USA unfortunately.
By the time Obama is done it will be 0

My main rod is a 132 1 L. Use it for bucktailing and plugging and pencil popping and I love it. Casts well. You can reliably throw 1 to 3 ounces with it.

I agree, it is a comfortable rod to fish and very versatile. You need to slow your casting effort down with it and let it do the work. Not the best tool for tough rocks or the canal, but certainly more than adequate on occasion, and a good choice for open beachs. Will handle large fish pretty well.
Rebuilding it with light guides (I use T-LCSG's on mine) will improve it a lot....when I originally built it cone of flight with standard sized guides I hated it.

Nice rod. If its trimmed as RR said it would probably be more like a 1321M than what you read about a 1L.

Anyway , nice rod. Be careful of the shipping charges. Sometimes they can be really high on a 1 piece long rod.

all some great info, i feel pretty confident about picking it up, i am going to met the person this evening, he sent me some great pics. The only issue i am finding is, all the places i have called to get Rod work done seem not to answer there phone or call back :(

I agree, it is a comfortable rod to fish and very versatile. You need to slow your casting effort down with it and let it do the work. Not the best tool for tough rocks or the canal, but certainly more than adequate on occasion, and a good choice for open beachs. Will handle large fish pretty well.
Rebuilding it with light guides (I use T-LCSG's on mine) will improve it a lot....when I originally built it cone of flight with standard sized guides I hated it.

Agreed. It is not a canal rod. I've hooked and landed 30-pound-plus fish on it in the ditch while the tide was moving, but there were times I thought I was going to be finishing up the fight with half a rod.

As I said, it's my main rod. I take it wetsuiting, along open beaches, rocky shorelines, just about anywhere but the canal, and I can't blame any lost fish on the rod's relative lightness. I straightened out a 1.5-Ounce Jetty caster on a fish with the rod in an effort to keep it out of the rocks, so it definitely has some guts to it.

so do you consider the M blank more of a canal rod? I have 2 M's the 10 and 11 footers and I am in luv with both. The 10 footer is so light and a joy to fish with and the 11 is a fantastic top water rod. I have not caught anything of any size on the 10 footer in the canal but the 11 footer seems to be plenty powerful enough for fish to 35 lbs on top in there. I don't jig much but would probably do that too with it but I am sure there are more specific rods for that, just not my bag much anymore.

Agreed. It is not a canal rod. I've hooked and landed 30-pound-plus fish on it in the ditch while the tide was moving, but there were times I thought I was going to be finishing up the fight with half a rod.

As I said, it's my main rod. I take it wetsuiting, along open beaches, rocky shorelines, just about anywhere but the canal, and I can't blame any lost fish on the rod's relative lightness. I straightened out a 1.5-Ounce Jetty caster on a fish with the rod in an effort to keep it out of the rocks, so it definitely has some guts to it.

i guess i just got a little confused, you say its not strong enough for a canal rod yet you straightened out a Jetty caster and landed 30 pound fish in the canal with a moving tide?

Are Mojos really made in Mexico. . . . really ?

They were made in Mexico last year, but some say that they moved production to Wisconsin recently.

I wrapped a 1321L this past winter for myself. Cut it down to something like 10'3", mostly from the tip. It is a beast of a rod after trimming. Landed a 41# in the CT river this spring (imagine the strength of the canal at full tide, but only 6' - 10' deep) with little trouble. The rod does take its toll on you after a full night of plugging or consecutive nights of fishing it. Not my favorite eeling rod once cut, but sweet for bigger plugs. I had no trouble laying into GRS deep diving pikes (5.5+ ounces), it will smoke a 2+ ounce needlefish to the horizon and it could go for more. Once cut like this, though, it was not the best at lighter stuff like unloaded redfins, but handled them well enough to be an option.

i guess i just got a little confused, you say its not strong enough for a canal rod yet you straightened out a Jetty caster and landed 30 pound fish in the canal with a moving tide?

The rod can do it, but will bend deeper into the grip than you would want and you lose leverage/lifting power (and hence some control) as a result. It is not the blank most would want for a primary canal rod to haul fish back in against the current day after day. It is versatile enough that it can do it in a pinch, however.

So i went and looked at the rod tonight and it was in better shape then i thought so I picked it up. It appears that the tip needs to be replaced and a Rod seat needs to be put on, as there isnt one on it but the grip is still there. I know that different guides serve different purposes, this rod has 2 like the one pictured below, they are the first 2 starting from the handle. Its was my understanding these larger open eyes were better for casting Mono is this true or will they be ok for braid?

once again i want to thank everone for there input.

Possibly trouble for braid. At high line speeds guide looping may occur.
Why not make it a winter project, learn how to wrap a rod, and rebuild it yourself? You'll end up happy.

Possibly trouble for braid. At high line speeds guide looping may occur.
Why not make it a winter project, learn how to wrap a rod, and rebuild it yourself? You'll end up happy.

I built on this blank with help from George using his guide layout but I used low riders for the first two guides and bmnag's for the rest...best rod that I ever owned, skipped the reel seat and it was the lightest most sensitive rod imaginable, threw everything I need to throw plugwise and was a great bucktailing stick...it's at the bottom of the sea right now thanks to a big wave but I'm diving today to try to retrieve it...anyway 1321L with George's low rider guide layout is a tremendous stick...

I built on this blank with help from George using his guide layout but I used low riders for the first two guides and bmnag's for the rest...best rod that I ever owned, skipped the reel seat and it was the lightest most sensitive rod imaginable, threw everything I need to throw plugwise and was a great bucktailing stick...it's at the bottom of the sea right now thanks to a big wave but I'm diving today to try to retrieve it...anyway 1321L with George's low rider guide layout is a tremendous stick...

I wrapped a 132 1L last year with low riders guides, tried a bunch of different layouts and ended up putting the stripper guide at 46" because of hte reel i was using. It casted very far but kind of took away from the feel i was looking for when fighting a fish or working a pencil.

Mind sharing the spacing layout George used on your rod??:grins:

Put a tip on it, tape the reel on and try it.

Possibly trouble for braid. At high line speeds guide looping may occur.
Why not make it a winter project, learn how to wrap a rod, and rebuild it yourself? You'll end up happy.

I would love to learn how to do it, unfortunately i am the type of person that needs to be shown, not read and do,and being new here i didn't want to ask, but seeing as you brought it up, If anyone is willing to teach i am always willing to learn.! :jump1:

I know guys that fish braid with wire guides w/o issues. I would fish it as is. MHO

Possibly trouble for braid. At high line speeds guide looping may occur.
Why not make it a winter project, learn how to wrap a rod, and rebuild it yourself? You'll end up happy.

Because he will just end up sniffing the glue and getting wasted!

Because he will just end up sniffing the glue and getting wasted!

couple times down the Ditch with me and you know me already. lol :smash:

I have an old glass rod with wire guides that I use off the breachways with 30# Fireline and have no issues with line wrap or odd tangles. Pull on that baby as hard as you can and all it does is bend. Don't know how it would work with "real" braid.

I wrapped a 132 1L last year with low riders guides, tried a bunch of different layouts and ended up putting the stripper guide at 46" because of hte reel i was using. It casted very far but kind of took away from the feel i was looking for when fighting a fish or working a pencil.

Mind sharing the spacing layout George used on your rod??:grins:

I can....or George might...he might have some new info... and I don't know if this helps Skip but I didn't use any thread building the rod, the guides were attached entirely using adhesive backed shrink tube...it was an easy fast build, incredibly durable, I swim with that rod on every trip(around 100) and it handled fish to 42lbs without any problem and I really beat the crap out of it...I checked the guides regularly for issues and cracking of the flex coat as this was experimental and it held up perfectly...I guess I'm just saying that it was a very effective and fast way to build a durable rod without having to learn thread wrapping

I can....or George might...he might have some new info... and I don't know if this helps Skip but I didn't use any thread building the rod, the guides were attached entirely using adhesive backed shrink tube...it was an easy fast build, incredibly durable, I swim with that rod on every trip(around 100) and it handled fish to 42lbs without any problem and I really beat the crap out of it...I checked the guides regularly for issues and cracking of the flex coat as this was experimental and it held up perfectly...I guess I'm just saying that it was a very effective and fast way to build a durable rod without having to learn thread wrapping

I'm surprised you didn't try wrapping thread knowing what you do for a living. It's very easy.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I'm surprised you didn't try wrapping thread knowing what you do for a living. It's very easy.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I did on a loomis blank 10'6" the previous year, but got bored with the wrapping so it looked nice for a little while and then went to hell...this rod required only a butt cap, adhesive lined shrink tube on the butt/handle, reel taped on..no seat.. and guides attached w/the shrink tube.... a coat of flexcoat tinted black over the wraps...tried to go the simplest possible route:)
the important thing was George's guide layout...he described this particular blank as a "dog" with a traditional guide layout

I'm happy to give you the measurements on the GSB1321L, but I suspect it can be improved on.

The reel STEM is at 22.5", this turns out to be too short and I would move it forward 1-2" if (or more likely when) I do it again. The reel seat is a Fuji NPS 20. These are much more comfortable than standard DPS seats, and have a slight flat to each side that helps with rod stability while casting.

All the guides are T-LCSG's and the tip is T-MNST. They will cost you as much as the blank....and are worth every penny. The regular LCSG guides are heavy, the alconite version may be lighter but I don't know. I use my rods for decades and an extra $100 upfront cost becomes insignificant when balanced against the thousands of hours I'll be fishing it.

The collector is a 20 TLCSG set (reversed) at the standard 47". I've since learned through experience that this is unnecessary (at least with a ZB25) and if you move the reel seat forward I think I'd just subtract the distance from the collector (rather than move the collector further out).

The guide sequence is tip-8-8-10-12-16-20
The distances from the tip ring are
6.5"-13 5/8"-22.5"-33.5"-46.25"-63 5/8"

I used xflock shrink grip over cork tape for the grips.

Now, all this said, there is another way to do this using TLCSG as the first three guides to cone down to small running guides (either TKLSG or TKWSG) that makes the rod even lighter.
I posted a thread in the rod building section about a 1201L a while back that will give you an idea what you can do......just start with a 20 instead of a 16m if you plan to use a full sized reel (pm me if you need other details). Here is the link http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/rod-building/65232-gsb1201l-lowrider-layout-i-e-10-footer-lowriders.html

I hated spinning tackle because of tip weight (which is awful with standard guides when you need to drop parallel to the water to work a plug right) , but these titanium guides and small guide systems with braid now let me fish rods that are as light and sensitive as the conventional stuff I depended on for decades. There are some tradeoffs. Knot and weed clearance suffers with these little guides....but seems worth it to me.