View Full Version : Water heater


justplugit
03-08-2011, 02:43 PM
Put a new water heater in last June not knowing under new govt
regulation there is a filter on the bottom of all new water heaters
that directs any fumes, spilled paint thinner etc., back into the water
heater tank so it will explode in the tank and not outside of it.

Good safety mechanism, but if it gets wet, like mine due to sump failure
the whole water heater must be replaced.

If you have water problems good idea to put the WH on block
to prevent what happened to me.

Live and learn, hope the info saves somebody on the site some $$.

JohnnyD
03-08-2011, 03:46 PM
My mum installed a tankless system last year and has extremely happy with it. Anyone else have any experience with them?

Raven
03-08-2011, 04:11 PM
watched a utube video where the guy builds a hot water heater
out of a piece of white pvc drain pipe. HUH?

All he did was attach a jig to his table saw and rip the pipe in half length-wise ~twice~ once on each side so he now had two 10 foot ( ) which he lined
with peel and stick reflective mirror foil cut into 12 inch lengths.

the water pipe sits at one third the radius and what you have is a parabolic water heater ......the water pipe is threaded thru holes you make in the end caps with one support block in the middle. you cover
it with glass .....or lexan .... pretty cool, when the suns shining...

the hot water on demand electric tankless hot water heaters were $228 ( smallest one) at home depot.

basswipe
03-08-2011, 05:14 PM
watched a utube video where the guy builds a hot water heater
out of a piece of white pvc drain pipe. HUH?

All he did was attach a jig to his table saw and rip the pipe in half length-wise ~twice~ once on each side so he now had two 10 foot ( ) which he lined
with peel and stick reflective mirror foil cut into 12 inch lengths.

the water pipe sits at one third the radius and what you have is a parabolic water heater ......the water pipe is threaded thru holes you make in the end caps wit h one support block in the middle. you cover
it with glass .....or lexan .... pretty cool, when the suns shining...

the hot water on demand electric tankless hot water heaters were $228 ( smallest one) at home depot.

Wouldn't trust that rig for a second.That's asking for trouble.

If you're gonna go tankless use a liscensed plumber to install it and use an Amtrol,you'll be supporting a local plumber and a local company.

PS.justplugit any good installer would've informed that the WH should've been set up on a block.Costs more but that slab it sits on will save you huge!Same goes for the furnace!

5/0
03-08-2011, 07:20 PM
That little filter thingy is actually a "FVR" Flammable Vapor Resistor,it works on resistance, as flammable vapors or (in some case's) Heavy humidity the resistance will increase.
It's designed to trip at a minimum of 75K the intelli vent gas valve circuit will run through it after the pre-purge power vent fires up and it will recognize that the resistance is too high and it will lock out,and will not reset over time......Even when the resistance drops.

Also the FVR can be restored to 55K-65K,if it gets wet place it in a bag of rice or if it has been subject to harmful vapors you can take off the two stake-on wires and slide it onto your car window and go for a cruise and remove the vapors at the unit location.After this you have to reset the unit and no it's not simple there is a 11 step process to it.

striperman36
03-08-2011, 07:22 PM
That little filter thingy is actually a "FVR" Flammable Vapor Resistor,it works on resistance, as flammable vapors or (in some case's) Heavy humidity the resistance will increase.
It's designed to trip at a minimum of 75K the intelli vent gas valve circuit will run through it after the pre-purge power vent fires up and it will recognize that the resistance is too high and it will lock out,and will not reset over time......Even when the resistance drops.

Also the FVR can be restored to 55K-65K,if it gets wet place it in a bag of rice or if it has been subject to harmful vapors you can take off the two stake-on wires and slide it onto your car window and go for a cruise and remove the vapors at the unit location.After this you have to reset the unit and no it's not simple there is a 11 step process to it.

Is there an IT translation for this. Or maybe even normal people English? :smash:

5/0
03-08-2011, 07:28 PM
My mum installed a tankless system last year and has extremely happy with it. Anyone else have any experience with them?

I have heard great things about them,in my exposure with them has been just hours of labor.I have changed out four heat exchangers on them,they were all AO Smith model(s) one of them had 112 screws,4 mechanical fittings,thermistors ect......
I think a simple atmospheric vent units are the the best,if you lose power you still have hot water.JMObservation

5/0
03-08-2011, 07:29 PM
Is there an IT translation for this. Or maybe even normal people English? :smash:

LOL!

striperman36
03-08-2011, 07:37 PM
LOL!

I guess that's a negative Sparky, there!!

How about something like,


The FVR, the Flammable Vapor Resistor class, is a persistant resource with public variables for the intelli vent gas circuit public interface that through time based on the global humidity variable can exceed 75k. However, through the use of the class constructors for resetting the variables values can be reset to 55k-65k depending on your usage.

Also not to set your JVM class pool settings to insure that the FVR base class and it's predesscors stay in LFM memory for the duration of execution of your application server JVM and/or its dependent servers.

5/0
03-08-2011, 08:52 PM
LMFAO Billy:rotf2:You were doing good on the first part but drifted way off course at the end...

Justplugit
I forgot to ask you what make and model is it?