and found the source of my fuel leak, 24 year old tank. If I want the tank out, I need to derig the console and get it out of the way. Any one know if it can be patched, welded? That one spot between the hoses must pool some water or something. The rest of the tank seems pretty solid. Getting it out is going to be a pain in the arse, it is all foamed in...

time for a new one. once you get it out try luthers welding in RI. great prices for top quality work and fast turnaround.

Bill, for the work involved, get a new one. Japanese handsaw makes quick work of cutting out the foam. The foam is usually saturated with gas from the leak, so keep cutting until it doesn't smell. Don't forget the ground wire... What sucks about the job is that when you get the new tank in and foamed, you still have the deck and console to reassemble. Take notes as you tear it down and have some line available as messengers. Finding a compatible tank can be a PITA. Good luck.

Damn Bill, unfortuanately you should replace it. The rest of it will only rot out on you.. I'd go through the hassle and replace it now instead of having more headaches later.

:wall:

Bill, for the work involved, get a new one. Japanese handsaw makes quick work of cutting out the foam. The foam is usually saturated with gas from the leak, so keep cutting until it doesn't smell. Don't forget the ground wire... What sucks about the job is that when you get the new tank in and foamed, you still have the deck and console to reassemble. Take notes as you tear it down and have some line available as messengers. Finding a compatible tank can be a PITA. Good luck.

Screwdriver/multimax/serrated knife of any type (bread knives work great on foam) to get the foam out. Keep the shop vac handy, you'll have a billion little pieces to suck up once you're done.

If it isn't weird dimensions, try finding a plastic tank first. Moellers come in about a thousand shapes and sizes.

Lots of good fabricators around if you go aluminum!

Use 4lb 2part foam to put it back in.
I'll be ordering from US Composites the end of the week. :hihi:

Scary sight there. Glad there wasn't a source of spark down there !

West is having a 50% off sale on the Moellers, I think I will go with it. Just not alot of time with so much else to do, and then putting the deck back in and I am lost :smash::smash:

Fill the whole tank with foam close the hole back up and have a 50 gallon made for inside the console. Problem solved.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Fill the whole tank with foam close the hole back up and have a 50 gallon made for inside the console. Problem solved.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Won't that screw up the boats center of gravity?
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Won't that screw up the boats center of gravity?
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I doubt it would ride "right".

I got 3/4 or so of the top of the tank exposed (deck cut out). There is a few inches the tank can slide back, and a few inches between the deck and the tank. I am going to cut out all the foam I can get to, and try to sneak the tank out without removing the console, and cutting more deck. So far all of the foam is dry, except a little on the top, which was damp but not soaked..

Will take more pics tomorrow.

be careful using a shop vac around gasoline. don't ask how I know.

If you go with the plactic tank they recommend not foaming it in. These tanks need to flex a bit. But I foamed just the corners where it was rigid.

If you go with the plactic tank they recommend not foaming it in. These tanks need to flex a bit. But I foamed just the corners where it was rigid.

Thanks good to know

That happened to my Steiger. I replaced with a plastic tank. Good advice up top an foaming. They flex a bit. Scary when you put 55 gallons in a 50 gallon tank. It was a pain in the ass but now the boat is safe and ready for cod.

Here's an article I had saved off for installing aluminum tanks, if anything, it's good food for thought. -





Many people blame aluminum as being a bad material for fuel tanks. Actually, its not. All materials have their strengths and weaknesses, and the problems with aluminum tanks are problems of proper installation, not the material itself. Properly installed, aluminum tanks will usually outlast the life of the boat.
Here's the answer that many of you asked for on how to install an aluminum fuel tank so that it doesn't corrode and leak again. Fuel tanks don't corrode because they get wet; they corrode because at some point something is in contact with the tank that traps water between it and the tank. Like the original foam that it was installed with. Aluminum is self-protecting, so long as the surface gets adequate air exposure. Severe corrosion is always caused by water plus a lack of oxygen. Metalurgically, this is known as "crevice corrosion," and the key is to eliminate all the points (crevices) that trap water. As long as the aluminum has a good air flow around all surfaces, contact with water will not damage it.
For replacing tanks foamed under the deck, between stringers, or tanks just sitting on a bare plywood deck, you need to build in a new deck. This can be done by thoroughly glassing over good quality plywood, being sure to thoroughly seal the edges of the plywood so it doesn't suck up water. Use mat if you like, but be sure that its completely wetted out, and use two layers for the top surface. Its best to glass the edges in a second operation, after the two surfaces have been done. Wait until the resin kicks off before doing the final roll out.
Note: You may need to add frames under the deck so that it doesn't sag, depending on the amount of the span between stringers. If the tank is more than two feet wide, we'd recommend this. Install the frames before glassing. Also, if it looks like the deck is going to collect water in the center, its a good idea to drill a few 1/2" drain holes, coating them with resin or epoxy so they don't rot.
The best method for mounting the deck is to fasten heavy, fir ledger strips to the side of the stringers. Make sure the height of the ledge strips is tall enough that they are not going to split. Its probably best to cross bolt through the stringers rather than using screws, if possible. Remember that this has to withstand the weight of the fuel with the boat slamming, so you need to make them strong. Then heavily fiberglass or epoxy the ledger strips (before installing) so they don't rot and set the fully glassed deck on top. Counter sink your deck attachment screw holes about 1/4" and then fill the counter sinks with epoxy or 5200 after the screws are set.
As shown in the illustration below, you are going to set the tank on top of 1/4" strips of plastic about 2" wide and spaced about every 12". Its best to place the strips transversly to the length of the tank. We recommend Haysite or any of the fiber reinforced plastic sheet. The strips should be cut to a length exactly 1/4" shorter than the width of the tank. We don't want the strips sticking out the sides and collecting water.
Next, you will need at least two tubes of 3M 5200 adhesive, and you will literally glue the plastic strips to the bottom of the tank. Apply the adhesive so that the entire surface of the plastic is coated with 5200 and will not leave any gaps or crevices for water to get into. Once the strips are pressed into position, make sure that the ends are equally 1/8' from the edges of the tank. Wipe off the excess 5200 that squeezes out, making sure that the joint between tank and plastic strip is completely sealed. Don't leave any globs of material.
Allow 24 hours for the 5200 to set up before setting the tank in place. Next, apply two 1/4" wide beads (like a stream of tooth paste) of 5200 along the length of each plastic strips that are now glued to the bottom of the tank. The strips do not get fully bedded because tanks expand and contract as they are filled and emptied. If the bottom distorts, we want the plastic strips to loosen from the deck, not the bottom of the tank. If the later happened, we'd be back to our crevice problems again. So we want just enough 5200 on the bottom of the strips to create some suction to hold the tank in place.
It will take two people to carefully set the tank straight down into place. You don't want to have to move or adjust its position once you set it down. Use wood shims on the inside of the stringers if necessary to guide it into the right position, shims that will be removed after its in place. The 5200 is so strong and will create so much suction that you not need any other method of securement. Don't worry that ballooning of the tank will break the seal. The weight of the fuel in the tank will pretty much hold the tank in place.
That's it! Now it won't matter if the tank gets wet because there are no crevices to trap water and cause crevice corrosion.

Bill,

When I replaced mine with plastic a few years ago what I did was build the foundation from sheet foam strips as a form and glassed that over. Then I glued the tanks to the fondation with 5200. I did foam in just the corners since they are not going to flex anyway. Then I went over the tanks in 2 or 3 places with 2" glass tape to hold the tank down in place. Used a 3 or 4 pieces of tape over one another. The install is fine, maybe not as good as if you were paying someone to do it but adequate. The only thing I would have done different is on my tank straps use 7 or 8 layers of glass tape. What I did works but remember the glass itself isn't going to stick to the plastic tank, it may at first but after a few waves no. But it is holding the tanks inplace since the tape is glassed to the hull.

be careful using a shop vac around gasoline. don't ask how I know.

This sounds like a 3 beer story and you're gonna leave us hanging.......

This sounds like a 3 beer story and you're gonna leave us hanging.......

lets just say that one of the kids at work decided to vac up a gas spill one day. can you say fireball(and very mad boss)

lets just say that one of the kids at work decided to vac up a gas spill one day. can you say fireball(and very mad boss)

Darwin must be pissed.

The foam came out quickly using a shovel, tried sliding the tank back, and up no dice. Looks like the console is gonna have to come out, which means I need to clean my garage first. :smash:

A really good place to read up on removal of that old tank is ClassicMako Owner's Club (http://www.classicmako.com). Those guys know what they are doing.

If the tank won't budge, a lot of time it needs to be "popped" out by jacking alternate corners with a 4x4 piece of lumber / chain setup. Usually it lets go pretty easily once that seal is cracked on the bottom.

Good luck - it's a sh!tty job, but worth it for sure.

A really good place to read up on removal of that old tank is ClassicMako Owner's Club (http://www.classicmako.com). Those guys know what they are doing.

If the tank won't budge, a lot of time it needs to be "popped" out by jacking alternate corners with a 4x4 piece of lumber / chain setup. Usually it lets go pretty easily once that seal is cracked on the bottom.

Good luck - it's a sh!tty job, but worth it for sure.

Thanks, I have been looking through the posts there and on Classic Seacraft. I got the tank free and can lift it, but only so far. I need to remove more deck, and at this point it may as well all come up and lay down a new one. I may have to wait until I have some more time, and funds.

Ahhhh the joys of older boats....

Yeah don't even think of using that tank. remove and replace. It is ugly now but when it is all back together with a new tank you will feel a lot better knowing you are not sitting on a time bomb.

Best of luck with it. I am sure you can either get the exact tank form the manufacture OR have something close to identical made up. While you are at it be sure and put in a new sender and pickup.

It looks like some electrolysis was attacking it. Make sure everything is grounded well. Also I bet there is a lot of white powdery #^&#^&#^&#^& in the tank. You will be happier with a new one and so will your fuel filter.