Just wanted to share a tip I sometimes employ to help create perfectly-level epoxy fill in belly weight holes.

For some patterns I place the belly weights in the blank prior to turning. I use thinned epoxy to fill these holes, as it penetrates well and is relatively bubble-free.

Once cured, I cut/sand the blank and I'm left with perfectly-level epoxied holes. This can help with the fill/sand process if you like everything flush before priming.

Eric I've done this on a few designs. I poured the lead into the cavity at a predetermined depth. One thing when getting the same and proper weight is that the wood has to be perfectly sized for each. prefer to plane the wood prior to this procedure. Sounds anal but when doing swimmers a few grams count. On big needles not so much. I did experience poured lead flying out of the wood when spinning. Epoxy weights in wood keeps them in. I did a drilled hole then took a bottoming tap to put threads in hole to secure lead. Worked fine but the finish product (smooth surface) still needs filler do to the half thread left at the top. Don't hold me to this but I think Beachmster pours lead in blank b/4 turning. If I get a chance at the CSA meeting I will ask Bob from Beachmaster about this. He is our guest speaker. Nice idea Eric.

Thanks for checking with BM, please let me know.

A couple of tips: Although 5 minute epoxy is quicker to cure, it contains a lot of bubbles, which leave pock marks when turned, requiring fill. Thinned epoxy is best.

Sand paper will cut into softwoods more than the epoxy, which can leave them raised. Don't over-sand.
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I turn my plug (dont sand), then add weight and after the epoxy cures I put it back on the lathe to sand. Just have to add, make sure your lead is secured well in your plug. Having lead shoot out at high rpms would not be fun.