I have a drill press with a 2 inch travel. I went out and got a Craftsman that advertised a 2.5 inch travel (I need 2.5 minimum) but I brought it back cause it really only went 2 inches . Anyway , any attachments or tricks to get a little extra travel out of the press. I already adjust any external stops etc to max. The press is limitred by the internal spindle vertical travel. Right now I drill down 2 inches , left up the table then drill the remaining depth. pain in the but and by moving the table I throw the self centering vise out of wack.

Make some blocks to put under the vise. Drill your initial distnce and then add the blocks. Drill again. No need to unlock and raise the table.

I used nice furniture grade 3/4 plywood. Make up a double thick piece at 1 1/2 inches. Maybe have a single thickness one as well.

I do use blocks too but using them means I also throw the center of the self centering vise out of wack. Blocks do seem to be the easiest solution but still not a "good" solution.

its dangerous, but you can drill as much as you can, shut the machine off and raise your bed with the bit inside your piece, then turn on the machine and drill some more. it would be safest if your piece was clamped.

Also, if you purchase a drill chuck with the same taper as your lathe, you can do your drilling on the lathe. Thats how many of the plug builders do their through drilling.

Mike; Can you raise the work piece 1/2" in the vise? Can you pull the work piece out and turn it upside down and drill in from other end?

Assuming you are drilling something soft. Ie. Eva or cork rings. Take your piece and drill your two inches. Stp the machine. Loosen the chuck. Crank down the spindle so it travels are far as its going to go. It then stops. Hold your drill bit (youve traveled all the way down). Now while holding your bit raise your travel your remaining half inch. Tighten your chuck. If youre careful you shouldn't move your piece. And you've just given yourself that little bit extra you needed.
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I now do them in the lathe but it would be nice to not have to change the chuck all the time. The drll press is just sitting there , all geared out with the self centering vice so putting it to use would be very convenient.

I'm drilling wood and some is pretty hard. In order to keep the turning to a minimum , I need to keep the drilled center hole pretty true. I have considered flipping the piece upside down halfway but then I'll need a gap filler glue for the next step. The superglue cures in minutes while a good gap filler will require 30 plus minutes of waiting.

One idea I have is cutting the drill to about 1.5 inches long. Drill from both ends but with that stubby a drill I should not have too much walk off center do to the grain patterns and at 1.5 inches , there is enough room above the piece to be able to flip it over without moving the centered vice.

I'm making pens. The damned pen blanks are just a hair over 2 inches long but I need to also clear the brad point of the drill which adds an eigth , thus the need for 2.5 inches of travel. I was hoping there was some kind of travel multiplier attachment or chuck gizmo that would give me a little more throw but I haven't seen one yet!

I may keep my eye out for an older used press with a longer throw. I hate to spend money on a second drill press cause the one I have is like new and almost never used. Got many more important needs in my shop than another barely used drill press.

With plugs I do as much drilling at once as possible, like 50 thru holes in one night.
The other thing to do is find an old fractional HP motor or even a old elec drill and clamp it to a table, make a jig and move the wood. Sort of a homemade horizontal borer. Limited in depth by the length of your bit.

Secure a car scissor jack to the drill press table. Then you jack the work-piece up to drill.

all you need to do is build a vertical side stop for the drill press table. so every time you raise or lower the table and are ready to lock in the height just make sure the edge of your table is against stop..your bit will always be centered in your vise if you've built and adjusted the stop right.

I like the locator idea Grapenut.

I think right now my next trial will be with a subby bit that enables me to flip the piece in the vise without moving anything. I'm sure it will work for most pens but it will be rsky with the slimlines because they end up with such thin wood layers that any misalignment at the point where the double ended holes meet in the middle could just be a make or break of that thin wall.

I have considered the mass production approach. Just set up the lathe and drill a whole bunch then break it down and start turning but in fact its a hobby and when I go down stairs to work in the shop , I want to make a pen , a whole pen , not just bore some one night , turn some another then assemble some another. Since I'm also pretty early in the learning curve its good to complete each pen , look it over and decide what to improve upon for the next one. If i do them in batches whatever mistakes I make will be propogated throughout the whole batch size instead of the chances for refinements available between each pen using the one up approach for now.

If you want to drive down to wakefield, you can use my drill press any time saltheart.
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Thanks Nebe.

I like the locator idea Grapenut.

I think right now my next trial will be with a subby bit that enables me to flip the piece in the vise without moving anything. I'm sure it will work for most pens but it will be rsky with the slimlines because they end up with such thin wood layers that any misalignment at the point where the double ended holes meet in the middle could just be a make or break of that thin wall.

I have considered the mass production approach. Just set up the lathe and drill a whole bunch then break it down and start turning but in fact its a hobby and when I go down stairs to work in the shop , I want to make a pen , a whole pen , not just bore some one night , turn some another then assemble some another. Since I'm also pretty early in the learning curve its good to complete each pen , look it over and decide what to improve upon for the next one. If i do them in batches whatever mistakes I make will be propogated throughout the whole batch size instead of the chances for refinements available between each pen using the one up approach for now.

You are beginning to sound like an engineer. :uhuh:
I have an older drill press here I bought from Billy Macfadens shop after he passed away. It has an extended column to give more space under the spindle. It's a real solid,older Jet machine (that's why I bought it). I now live in a coutry club community and I don't really have room for it. It might be just what you need. I'll measure the spindle travel.............3 inches Yup 3 inches.

You still making rods :hidin:

all you need to do is build a vertical side stop for the drill press table. so every time you raise or lower the table and are ready to lock in the height just make sure the edge of your table is against stop..your bit will always be centered in your vise if you've built and adjusted the stop right.

Of all the suggestions, I like this one best. Very good heads up approach.

Doesn't help that its big and 250 miles away Bill. :)

Doesn't help that its big and 250 miles away Bill. :)

Mike;
It's not that big. It's a bench model. I have to take the motor and spindle housing off the column to handle it but it's doable. It's a very nice older, sturdy machine.

Can you build a Century 10' Stealth? I'll drive up to get the rod and bring the drill press with me. If interested take discussion to PM's

PM sent Bill.