View Full Version : Rod Stripping

09-05-2012, 09:15 AM
What's the preferred, best or EASIEST way to strip a rod?

Looking to convert a conv. rod into a spinner....and would like to get the rod as naked as possible.

The "Search" didn't really turn anything up.....:smash:

09-05-2012, 09:36 AM
You will need a supply of straight razor blades, extra fine scotch bright pad or 600-1000 wetsand paper, a couple rod supports, some quiet time and patience. Try cutting under the guide foot from the side. A lot depends on the condition of the epoxy and whether it was underwrapped. Gets dicey when getting close as you want to avoid cutting into the blank at all costs.

09-05-2012, 11:18 AM
Cut the threads on top of the guide feet. This will peel off easily and give you 2 free ends that you can find and use to unwind the remainind thread. On underwraps do the same unwind but be very carefull when you cut the outside thread to get a place to start unwinding. after all the thread is off , scrape the areas where the guides were using a scraper that has the edge at 90 degrees to the blank. You do not want to cut into or nick the blank. Then you can sand with very fine sand paper or use steel wool. Get all the shine off. Repaint with a matte black paint that is fast drying then start rebuilding. If you have to remove the reel seat you do that by slicing it length wise with a small dremel cut off wheel or hacksaw blade on two side 180 apart. Use a screw driver blade to just put it in the slot you cut and twist. Do not pry down on the blank underneath. Same thing , scrape away bulk epoxy then sand and reglue new seat.

Its way harder to strip and rebuild a rod than it is to build new from scratch with a new blank.

09-05-2012, 11:22 AM
Heat the epoxy being careful not to damage the blank. Like salt heart said slice into the now soften epoxy at the guide feet. Repeat.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

09-05-2012, 09:24 PM
Kind of figured there was no easy way.

Thanks for the replies

Once I get to the core, via the guides, would I then be able to heat the remaining epoxy enough to peel that off as well or does it bond to the blank in a way where it will have to be carefully scraped and sanded?

Whoever laid these guides on, wasn't skimpy when applying the epoxy...:smash:

It's a sweet old Lami that I'd love to spin with. Hopefully talk Goose in crocheting something sweet over the winta...

09-07-2012, 06:12 AM
If you soften the epoxy with heat you can usually scrape most of it off with a credit card or sharp plastic scraper. It will not be perfect, however, and the gloss coat of the blank is likely to get nicked up some. If you are looking to do the job right, plan on sanding it and refinishing it. I never bother.

As for the reel seat, I've tried several ways but find a spiral cut with a hack saw is the easiest and best.

09-09-2012, 08:14 AM
Don't laugh, but have you just clamped on a spinning reel w/ braid and tried casting it??? Yes, it is splined wrong & so forth, BUT it works much better than you would think! For me, my conventionals have longer butts on them then spinners. So the handle is a few inches longer than I like.

Look at the lay out of these newer rods running little guides. I'm not spending $$$ for these special guides that cost more than the blank!!

Unless you are fishing during the day and the fish are breaking WAY out there. You don't need to cast far. At night the fish are close to shore so who cares IMHO. LOL

YMMV. Try it and see for yourself. :)

09-09-2012, 09:45 PM
If you unwrap the guides thread as I suggested most of the epoxy will come off with the thread as you unwrap it. Yes its slower than trying to cut it off but its a lot safer for the blank and there will be little epoxy left on the blank when unpealed. Now it will be dull underneath and a little sanding and recoating will be needed if you want the rebuild to look like new.

09-13-2012, 09:29 AM
I just did this for about the 15th time. I almost enjoy the challenge. Took an older 9' Arra rod and stripped it of all eyes, hypalon, reel seat. It is very thin blank, which I used for casting small metals. I want it to cast much farther though. I made it 24"s longer by putting in a butt extention and wrapped cork tape over that after putting a new reel seat on it. Fore grip is made of burl cork, so I have something to grip after hookup. I tried it out with a 1 and 2 oz deadly dick. I did not see where the 2 oz hit the water just new the direction it went in. Nice thing about this rebuild is I had all the stuff. I retro'd the rod a little with old Holland thread.

09-14-2012, 12:30 AM
I've appreciated all the feedback in regards to my question...

Thank You

Swimmer, what is your method of removal?

09-16-2012, 03:34 PM
Thanks again for the insight. It sure lessened my apprehension of starting this project.

Got the rod stripped down and sanded clean in less than an hour. :shocked: >>guides only<<

Definitely not as bad as I thought. I first tried to slice along the guide cutting only into the epoxy and not the blank (with the razor standing upright). I wasn't liking it. I couldn't tell how deep I was cutting, not to was hard as nails. This rod is 20+yrs old.

What worked for me, were NEW sharp blades and carefully applied elbow grease. I used the razor blade like a chisel. I started on the backside of the rod, middle of the guide and worked my way out. I laid the blade almost flat, just enough to get into the epoxy and slowly pushed it in. I continued to chisel away until I found my depth. Once I was comfortable with the depth, I adjusted the angle on the blade so as not to cut into the blank. The blade doesn't cut into the blank that easy so it wasn't difficult to differentiate the epoxy from the blank. I cleared a straight path the length of the guide and epoxy. I found it easier to widen the "path" once created. This allowed for an easier removal of the guide (making it easier to peel the material off).
I was then able to peel the guide and epoxy from the blank. Granted it wasn't a clean peel, as there was residual epoxy left behind, but that was easily cleaned after the guide and bulk of epoxy was removed. Laying the blade almost completely flat against the blank made quick work of clearing any remaining epoxy. The bevel on the razor blade itself was a good guide in keeping the sharp edge from doing any damage to the blank. Most of the remaining residual epoxy is the actual taper of epoxy to blank, where there is no thread.

Couple of things...once I got the blade digging good, it was best to continue to push hard and steady without stopping. This allowed me to make more progress as opposed to short increments. Once the blade gets dull, GET A NEW BLADE. World of a difference. One other thing, it was helpful to use my other fingers to grip the guide itself (underneath, as shown in picture), allowing me to use it as leverage when pushing the blade forward.

I opted not to reheat the epoxy. I was thinking that it would definitely get very messy in all aspects of removal (not knocking it, just didn't try it).

Not the safest method I'm sure, but it worked for me and I would definitely go this route again if I had to.

None of this possible without the input of others. :thanks:

Anyone know the specs on a Lamiglas BSB 36 GM? I can't find it on their site...

09-16-2012, 03:43 PM
Positioning the blade to cut into the epoxy...notice how I'm using the guide underneath, as leverage.

09-16-2012, 03:51 PM
Picture of removed guide after cutting open "path" and peeling from blank.

09-16-2012, 03:55 PM
Once sanded, the blank became very dull. I wiped it down and it cleared up a bit, but still kind of dull.

Is it logical to spray the blank as suggested?

What would the benefit be other than to make it look pretty again?

..and, would it even be worth it with the possibility of it flaking off in the future?

Any other way to add that "new" look...lemon oil or wax???

Has anyone tried to repaint a blank? If so, how was the outcome? Worth it?

Still looking for suggestions opinions....

09-16-2012, 04:55 PM
They make a rod builders spray paint available on line. I imagine it is the same stuff sold in hardware stores that bonds to plastic/fiberglass/graphite. I have also seen where rod builing paint is mixed with epoxy then laid out on a rod in the spinner very thin to change the paint color. I believe there is a you tube video on the epoxy mix method.