I've been using Rust-Oleum primer from a rattle-can since I started building. One of the drawbacks of applying this in the basement during the frigid or humid months is the overspray dust and the aerosolized solvents.

I know some of you applying primer via brushing or dipping and I'm wondering if you feel this less of a hassle & mess.

Also, I'm wondering if you think brushed or dipped primer covers wood pitting better than a rattle-can...can.

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Eric

Brushing fills pits better than spraying, but it takes longer
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Longer to apply or dry (or both)?

I use Z spar marine undercoat (over valoil sealer). Brush on with a foam brush, dry overnight, sand and you're good to go. Createx adheres well to it.

Thanks, George -- do you try and work into in the lead voids or are they already epoxied/filled before you prime?

I used to dip And found it to take a long time to dry. It seems to form "Globs" at the end of the plug when hung to dry. It does however fill all pits and voids, through holes and belly holes too. Just my $.02

Dipping sounds like a PIA. I might try brushing.

There has to be a good way to control dust when spraying inside -- one that doesn't involve risk of explosion from a fan motor.
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Eric Roach, Im just a hobby builder an fish my own plugs an use rattle cans all the time. BUT prime w/ KILZ 2 sealer primer brush it on, hang, let dry, an paint the next day .if that helps:rotf2:
GOOD LUCK GOOD BUILDIN:uhuh:

I use KILZ 2 as well and spray it in my basement bulkhead steps area to isolate the overspray out of my shop. In the good weather I do it outside

Dipping may be messy to a point. I set up (when I do 20+ plugs) cardboard boxes w/ cut coathangers as stringers across the opening. I use a box made to hold say 6 gl. of bleach containers, w.wash fluid etc. Space to cross wires about 3-4" apart to help with entering and removal of plugs. On one end I cut out a piece to slide in a roller tray to catch the drippings. I use Zinseer oil base cover stain mixed 50/50 w/thinner. Two coats dries smooth with a small drip end to clip off. I use a 3" dia. cylinder about a foot high for most plugs. Longer plugs I'll use a cut soda bottle.

pbadad I also cut coverstain 50/50 dipping,70/30 out of the gun.Try using Naphtha instead of thinner,you'll get faster drytime and will sand better.More expensive than thinner but worth it and since the formula for CS was changed several years ago to meet the new laws restricting VOCs Naphtha was the main ingredient that was reduced.I also do a 50/50 mix of Naphtha and Penetrol for sealing beforehand.

As far as Kilz 2 goes it is an ultraweak water-based primer.If you're gonna go water-based there are much better products out there.

Basswipe, I'll try the naphtha on my new batch. Thanks for the tip.

Great info pbadad & basswipe (that screen name always makes me chuckle).

How much dry time is necessary between thinned Zinsser CS coats?
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Great info pbadad & basswipe (that screen name always makes me chuckle).

How much dry time is necessary between thinned Zinsser CS coats?
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When thinning Coverstain with naphtha,under ideal conditions about two hours at the most.Ideal conditions are certainly dependent on temp,humidity and air movement.

Thank you again, I will try this method over the winter.

Actually, I picked up some Zinsser CS & Naphtha today and mixed it 50/50 in a big pickle jar -- one that will allow dipping a lure to 9.5"

Assuming humidity around 60% and temp around 70 degrees, how long would you wait until you feel you can paint after the second primer dip?

Just sharing some more experience: I mixed the CS 50/50 with Naphtha, and the paint solids settled to the bottom within hours in a very hard mass. It took a lot of effort to break that up and get it back into suspension for dipping.

The gill slits I use on some of my lures proved to be an issue; the angles are very sharp so the solution either beaded up on the gill plate or left long streaks from the gill opening. In the end, I did have to use some spray-primer over the gills.

So what I gained with the dipping method is primer coverage in the drilled areas for additional water absorption protection, but I do need to continue to spray at least one coat for any lures with gills.

I did want to mention that the surface of the lure after dipping was beautiful; even around the eyes (only exception was gills).
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I just warm up everything (plug in a lamp, and primer in a bucket o' warm water) then step into the garage (yeah- its freezing cold) and spray. after a minute or two, the back inside to dry......