Just picked up some Grip Stud spikes for my wading boots. Installed a few - they are a little longer than Wearbars with a wider thread to insert into your boots. Once installed they appear to hold strong which may prevent them from leaning over like Wearbars. Grip Studs now makes a special stud for surfcasters - the 1800. They come 50 to a box and includes a install tool. Cost was approx $80. I use about 14 per boot. So I have plenty in case of loss.

In photo the Wearbar spike is above the Grip Stud for comparison.

Great!

I look forward to hearing how they hold up. I have been watching
forum threads on these 1800s, but no one seems to have posted longer
term evaluations.

I use the wearbars. In my particular case, I think I sort of solved lean
over issue by following someone's recommendation to use a washer.
I have felt soles and have been using a 3/4 " washer whose hole
diameter is close to the thread diameter....also using the longer
threaded studs. It seams to solve that problem, but the problem
with them loosening and dropping out requires constant
maintenance. Some nights I don't loose any. Some nights I have 2-3 disappear.

I have been thinking about trying out the 1800s, but will probably
hold off until I run out of the wearbars I have.

It seems that they are a little more expensive. $1 vs $1.6 per, but if
they stick and stay put... Its definitely worth it...Set it and forget it!

DZ - what kind of coating is on the Gripstuds?
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I got the same brand, but I got the 100 pack of 1800R, which have a longer point.

Also I got a pair of the new wearbars, which have a new coating on them to help prevent corrosion.

I put the grip studs in a pair of Simms headwaters. I used 34 per boot, only because I got 100 and I weigh a lot and want to disperse the weight more.

I put the wearbars in a pair of albrights.

There's a whole very informative thread on the big site, called the bees knees/wading boot thread, covers a lot of info and what works and what didn't.

Looking forward to putting both pairs to the test this year.

The grip studs are designed for autocross/motorcycle/rally car racing events on ice, snow and mud, so they should prove themselves in the surf.
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Dennis they look awesome. Order going out in the AM

DZ - what kind of coating is on the Gripstuds?
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Say's "rust resistant" which probably means they'll rust just as the Wearbars do. If they rust too much I worry about the slots to remove them. The core and point are tungstun carbide. After installing a few I'm wondering if I'll be able to use the same location for replacement spikes should they fall out as the aggresive screw threads remove much of the rubber. They are heavier than wearbars. Don't want to use too many in my footware and make them too heavy - I'm slim so don't need the extra support. Even though the wearbars bent over they still worked - but as puppet mentioned they (wearbars) would dissapear on some nights that didn't include strenuous walks/wading which was puzzleling. We'll see how these work out.
http://www.gripstuds.com/Surf_Fishing.php

Dennis & K...... Def give me a buzz on them,,,, I can share my results,,,,

You need more studs per boot... I had been playing with them for a couple years and over a year ago I had tons of inquiries from guys on them,,,,before last season I applied them to the headwaters from simms and used that combo all last season with great results. This combo by far worked out the best for me,,,,

At the start of the season I pounded them for a month straight on block.. These were all night pounding trips,,,, My season got cut short a t the end but still 127 trips they did not disappoint....

I put them in and never touched them again all season,,, I have even messed around with modifying them to improve them,,,, I will be wearing the same boots with the same studs when I start fishing this year,,,, and still have not touched them since I put them in,,,,, This photo is of the studs and boot at the end of the season,,,, rust was never an issue as they were constantly in use,,,, The 1800s were great,,,

Thanks Tom - your input was the reason I'm trying them this season. They look good.

DZ

I put them in and never touched them again all season,,, I have even messed around with modifying them to improve them,,,, I will be wearing the same boots with the same studs when I start fishing this year,,,, and still have not touched them since I put them in,,,,, This photo is of the studs and boot at the end of the season,,,, rust was never an issue as they were constantly in use,,,, The 1800s were great,,,

Great review!

Did you set them with epoxy, or did you use any special technique for setting them?

Thanks!

Great review!

Did you set them with epoxy, or did you use any special technique for setting them?

Thanks!

The review of similar studs in the following link has an interesting tip regarding using an exacto knife to create a pilot hole for the studs.

Grip Studs - Screw In Stud Kit (http://www.flyfishreviews.com/fly-fishing-product-reviews/in-depth-reviews/73-grip-studs)

The review of similar studs in the following link has an interesting tip regarding using an exacto knife to create a pilot hole for the studs.

Grip Studs - Screw In Stud Kit (http://www.flyfishreviews.com/fly-fishing-product-reviews/in-depth-reviews/73-grip-studs)

Ticket,
That article is helpful - took me a few tries to get through the felt. I'll try and cut some felt away to make it easier.

DZ

Good looking studs (sounds awkward).

Another good alternative I've found is the Orvis studs. Little easier to get than some of the others. Stick quite well on shale, granite, and bubbleweed. Haven't lost any and had any wear down like the Simms studs.

Ticket,
That article is helpful - took me a few tries to get through the felt. I'll try and cut some felt away to make it easier.

DZ

Dont cut any felt away,,, The harder the felt the tougher it will be for the studs to roll,,, slow steady with tons of pressure will get it done,,

Dont cut any felt away,,, The harder the felt the tougher it will be for the studs to roll,,, slow steady with tons of pressure will get it done,,

GattaFish,

Did you use any adhesive?

I put some in my headwater felt bottoms and did not use any adhesive but I have not fished in them yet. I don't beleave anyone I know has used adhesive the Auger type threads won't allow them to pull out. Even if u used an adhesive it wouldn't stop them from rolling over.
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Has anyone tried these in rubber soled boots? In particular LL Bean ? Or is felt the way to go?

I'm worried, first the Korkers go and the next thing you know you'll be using Fireline on a little girly reel.

:)

Friends don't let friends wear korkers... They are quickly becoming an antiquated relic of surfcasting made by a company that refuses to respond or cater to the demands of their target consumer. Good riddance.

Excellent info Tom. Good to hear they didn't rust. I wonder if they rusted below the felt line. Maybe not since you didn't lose any and you're going on season 2. That's an issue w/ the wear bars (crappy black oxide on them that gives very, very little protection against corrosion) as they rust out under the felt. Looks like it's time to place an order...

K

4 trips on them. Granite, walking on the roads, etc.

55620
55621

GattaFish,

Did you use any adhesive?

negative on the adhesive....

I pounded the crap out of the studs in the picture..... and my outings are never short,,, especially on Block,,,

Has anyone tried these in rubber soled boots? In particular LL Bean ? Or is felt the way to go?

The auger on the 1800s will tear up the vibrams... Pete did some last year and tore the soles up,,,, If I was doing rubber soles I would do the 1740's in the vibrams,,, not going to give you lots of depth in bubble weed but might get it done...

If your traversing the bubble weed on the edge of the canal and getting new boots,,, go felt andy,,,

negative on the adhesive....

I pounded the crap out of the studs in the picture..... and my outings are never short,,, especially on Block,,,


Thanks so much for the info!

Thanks Tom.
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Has anyone tried these in rubber soled boots? In particular LL Bean ? Or is felt the way to go?

Two trips in the books with #1800 Grip Studs and rubber-soled Cabela Ultra Lites. 17 studs per boot; one for each insert. So far so good...

This is about 3 months worth of abuse last season. Holding up well in the Albright boots. If the boots soles are thick enough 1800r are best.

I drilled a pilot hole first or the felt gets torn up.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n126/RobMaz/07445bc3.jpg

Yes I found drilling pilot holes first was best.
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How big of a hole?

As long as it's smaller then the auger thread. I used a very small bit.
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As long as it's smaller then the auger thread. I used a very small bit.
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I'll second that advise.

GG

Two trips in the books with #1800 Grip Studs and rubber-soled Cabela Ultra Lites. 17 studs per boot; one for each insert. So far so good...

One of my fishing partners shredded the Simms vibram soles with the grip studs in one season. He is a big guy so I think that didn't help.

The auger on the 1800 and the 1800r is the same size. Walking on flat rocks and roads will not test the studs. Rocky uneven ground where you may only catch a couple studs is the way test them.

I rolled the 1800rs when I tested them that's why i went with the 1800s in the head waters.


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One of my fishing partners shredded the Simms vibram soles with the grip studs in one season. He is a big guy so I thing that didn't help.
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If the grip studs shredded the rubber then I would venture to guess that there is no "perfect" solution for rubber soles.

The grip studs are/were the most superior design for their purpose. Did he lose studs?
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One of my fishing partners shredded the Simms vibram soles with the grip studs in one season. He is a big guy so I think that didn't help.

The auger on the 1800 and the 1800r is the same size. Walking on flat rocks and roads will not test the studs. Rocky uneven ground where you may only catch a couple studs is the way test them.

I rolled the 1800rs when I tested them that's why i went with the 1800s in the head waters.


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Tall fat guys who loo like the guy from goonies shouldnt be the standard. They can break anything. Little fire plug guys also shouldnt be the standard either need to find an average human being to test these properly
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Tall fat guys who loo like the guy from goonies shouldnt be the standard. They can break anything. Little fire plug guys also shouldnt be the standard either need to find an average human being to test these properly
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Heres a vibram sole with the gripstuds after about 120 or so nights of getting worked by 245 pounds of ripped steel and sex appeal. Im gonna try the felt route this season.

Tall fat guys who loo like the guy from goonies shouldnt be the standard. They can break anything. Little fire plug guys also shouldnt be the standard either need to find an average human being to test these properly
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Oh jeez. Here we go. Mr standard himself.

You just couldn't wait to bust my balls. Could you ??

Didn't lose studs but they rolled and created little areas under the sole that allowed them to be loose and move easily by touch.
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Ordering a big batch for the shop today, so we'll have them in stock and available locally shortly.

Ordering a big batch for the shop today, so we'll have them in stock and available locally shortly.

A local retailor - nice.

Pete, when we put the CSA order together the rep (Colin) was looking for local shops that might be interested. I gave them the Edge's number (on a short list.) Hope they (the studs) bring some business your way. He is very keen on the potential market share their product could grab here.

Pete, when we put the CSA order together the rep (Colin) was looking for local shops that might be interested. I gave them the Edge's number (on a short list.) Hope they (the studs) bring some business your way. He is very keen on the potential market share their product could grab here.


Thanks Scratch - putting the order together with him now.

Heres a vibram sole with the gripstuds after about 120 or so nights of getting worked by 245 pounds of ripped steel and sex appeal. Im gonna try the felt route this season.

Who did you lend your boots to?Haha
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Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Who did you lend your boots to?Haha
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BRUCE!!!!

We now have these in stock. 1800's in 50 packs, 100 packs, 50 packs with install tool, and the install tool individually.

Grip Studs (http://www.edgeangling.com/Grip-Studs-Surf-Fishing-Studs.html)

http://www.edgeangling.com/miva/graphics/Fishing-Accessories/Grip-Studs-1800-50-pack.jpg

How are the "Felt Ultralites by Cabelas"holding up to the grip studs #1800 and are they tearing up the "hard rubber pods" on the bottom side of the sole ?
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After a years worth of use, how are these holding up? I just picked up a new pair of boots and it doesn't look like I'll be able to use my beloved Orvis studs on them (not tall enough).

Is there a consensus better option- grip studs or wearbars? Anyone tried the Goat Heads?

After a years worth of use, how are these holding up? I just picked up a new pair of boots and it doesn't look like I'll be able to use my beloved Orvis studs on them (not tall enough).

Is there a consensus better option- grip studs or wearbars? Anyone tried the Goat Heads?

Ware Bars with washers to spread there load have worked best for me. There is no way to spread the load with the grip studs.

Buy the 1" ware bars and cut them to fit. The heel (ultralights) will take the full stud and you need to cut about an 1/8" off for the other areas. Epoxy (5200 marine) on the threads a preference. I prefer not to glue because it makes it easier to change them out if needed.

Just my opinion. I don't fish as much as I want to (30-50 trips) but have had my boots for 3 seasons now and just changed out studs for this year. I fit the "appropriate tester" height and weight stats from above...

I'm liking the grip studs. Pricey but I haven't lost any so I'm sure I can transfer them if my Simm's start to fall apart. I heard of a few guys having issues but I clock in at 165 pounds and haven't even bent one.

Mine held up fine all year in various locations supported my fat ass no problem. Didn't lose or bend one.
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Gripstuds all the way....and you can use washers with them.

The shanks on the wearbars corrode and snap after a season.
When I was using wearbars, i constantly had to replace and tighten
them. The gripstuds...set em and forget em. I did not have to replace one.

This is the washer, gripstud, and combo after the washer is twisted up the
auger. The head of the spike is about 1/16 or 1/32 bigger than the opening or
the washer. The washer hole diameter is about 1/4"...the outer diameter is
about 11/16".

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020475_zpsd9f2b8ab.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020475_zpsd9f2b8ab.jpg.html)

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020470_zps912be974.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020470_zps912be974.jpg.html)

the boots...simms freestones. Great boots.
My last pair are still functional but are backups now...over 5 years old.
Other than the felt on these...the uppers show nearly no wear at all.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020459_zps543b9972.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020459_zps543b9972.jpg.html)


http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020448_zpsc943cf6e.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020448_zpsc943cf6e.jpg.html)

when i set my spikes...I did not predrill.
I soak the felt in water.
Place a drop of gorilla glue on the spot I want to place the spike.
let it soak in a little.
drill in the spike.

The gorilla glue expands into the fibers of the felt and makes a much more rigid anchor than just the felt alone. I think the felt fibers may stretch a little when wet, so the glue makes it a little more stable.

Gripstuds all the way....and you can use washers with them.

The shanks on the wearbars corrode and snap after a season.
When I was using wearbars, i constantly had to replace and tighten
them. The gripstuds...set em and forget em. I did not have to replace one.

This is the washer, gripstud, and combo after the washer is twisted up the
auger. The head of the spike is about 1/16 or 1/32 bigger than the opening or
the washer. The washer hole diameter is about 1/4"...the outer diameter is
about 11/16".

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020475_zpsd9f2b8ab.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020475_zpsd9f2b8ab.jpg.html)

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020470_zps912be974.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020470_zps912be974.jpg.html)

the boots...simms freestones. Great boots.
My last pair are still functional but are backups now...over 5 years old.
Other than the felt on these...the uppers show nearly no wear at all.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020459_zps543b9972.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020459_zps543b9972.jpg.html)


http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h240/puppetFish/P1020448_zpsc943cf6e.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/user/puppetFish/media/P1020448_zpsc943cf6e.jpg.html)

when i set my spikes...I did not predrill.
I soak the felt in water.
Place a drop of gorilla glue on the spot I want to place the spike.
let it soak in a little.
drill in the spike.

The gorilla glue expands into the fibers of the felt and makes a much more rigid anchor than just the felt alone. I think the felt fibers may stretch a little when wet, so the glue makes it a little more stable.

Those look Pissa! Might be time to change it up….

FYI - Grip Studs 1800s 50 pack marked down 25% ($70 to $52.50) right now at Salt Water Edge.