I traded some stuff for a 16' Starcraft in very nice condition. I flipped it over and the center keel has some fiberglass work done to it. The previous owner said it never leaked the 9 years he had it. I was going to paint the boat, but after seeing some of the glass lifting around the edges I think I am going to strip it. I was wondering what if anything is the best product to use to remove the existing paint? Is there something that will remove the fiberglass? Or do I start scrapping? Once I have removed the glass should I re-glass the keel? Does anyone have any experience redoing the seems on these?

Am I getting in over my head? The other option is to send it to someone and have it restored.

Spud

If the paint is not currently cracked you can just sand it (etch) lightly to help form a bond between old paint and new. If the old paint is bad, I would use a primer base coat first that is self etching after removal of the old paint (if bad). Interlux 202 is a solvent that removes mold, oils, waxes etc from existing paints. I restored a 1987 sylvan super snapper and used the interlux 202 product. It'll remove the old glue from the backs of letting, registrations etc. I used a one part interlux top coat "brightside" cut with interlux333 brushing liquid (thinner), I started with the detail work, had a buddy roll on paint over the large areas and I followed with the brush to remove bubbles with a cross hatch pattern. Let that dry, then sand, repeat 202 process to remove any doubt of oils or other contaminants then did a second coat of topside paint. Came out awesome. A half gallon should cover 2 coats. I can't speak to the fiberglass work as much, but I did use the fiberglass expoxy to seal my AC plywood decking as opposed to using P.T. ply.

Here's some pics, makes me want to do it again, well worth the time.

Best product to remove fiberglass is a bigass grinder with 24-36-40 grit. Just go easy on the aluminum.
Someone probably ran a glass seam down the middle to stop it from leaking.
Unless its really flaking off I would be minimally intrusive.

Also raw aluminum is very tricky to paint if you were to completely strip it. unless its peeling I would lightly scuff the old paint and just add a new topcoat.
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I would love to find the time to paint my 26 year old alum boat . I say I am going to do it every year but I never find the time and just put it in the water and fish it. Getting ugly looking at this point. Let em know how you make out Spud.

Also raw aluminum is very tricky to paint if you were to completely strip it. unless its peeling I would lightly scuff the old paint and just add a new topcoat.
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This is key! Couldn't agree more.

i treat aluminum like a car body and use bondo first where needed to
fill lows or surround a spot for a patch and criss cross it before it sets up
giving me a surface to resin too and add fiberglass as a second layer if necessary.
Seals my leaks....! one day i'm out there and i see water
gurgling into the boat at too fast a rate ( a gash) so you know it's a losing battle.
so....
I went ashore tilted the boat and used a piece of peel and stick silver foil
tape (has unbelievable adherence qualities)and patched both sides and was back out fishing in 15 minutes.

You'd be better to stay away from bondo for boat repairs, it's not waterproof.
Kitty hair fiberglass would be a better choice
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bondo is resin based and is just to get the fiberglass cloth to Stick better than to just scratched up aluminum... yes it's very porous as it's supposed to be to absorb primer so it has to only be sealed really well with top coats of resin first ... then glass to it . But hey, that's just my method.

Thanks for the advice guys, but I have a question about painting the raw aluminum. Why is it tricky? If I do strip to the aluminum, prime with metal (?) primer and paint...where lies the problem? Also, it has four seats. I would like to keep the two most forward and the one at the stern. If I remove the second from the stern will this change the integrity of the boat? I would like the room to fish and don't see the need to have four seats.

I painted an aluminum boat we use for duck hunting at least 12 years ago and we washed the al. first with vinegar which I believe partially etches the al. Then scrubbed with a hot water and TSP mix, rinse thoroughly let dry and painted. That paint has held on with no problems.
As far as the seat, while I wouldn't be as concerned about the integrity because you have 3 others, be careful because they usually have the closed cell foam flotation encased under these seats and you will change the buoyancy of the boat.

I've spent the last 13months re-working my 21foot Starcraft. Painting usually requires a self-etching primer (avaialble at most spray paint palces.... I used Walmart to by Rustoleum brand I think). Let that set up and then paint with whatever topcoat ya like.
as far as patching leaks- there LOTS of possible solutions. I replaced part of the keel with new section of aluminum- new rivets and then sealed with a bed of 5200. It can break ice in the winter now.....

@ inthehole...no floatation under the seats. They are wood and span from gunnal to gunnal with a center bracket (vertical) under the seat.

Raw aluminum oxidizes very quick, so etch prime as you go. Don't strip the whole boat and let it sit for a day or so. Do a small area and then prime it.
Also do not use steel tools on it. say you have a dent and you want to pound it out with a hammer. The steel will pound ions in the aluminum and start dissimilar metal corrosion.
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I will be tackling this the weekend after next. I will show progress pics as I go.

I don't want to hi jack your thread.I'm in the process of stripping my 12 footer. I have the bottom completely stripped My question is can you use a undercoat spray then paint over that,then spray again.
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Strip existing paint off the hull and sand with 80 grit sandpaper. Within an hour of doing so, apply a coat of Interlux's Interprotect 2000E barrier coat. When enough time has elapsed to allow for overcoat, apply their Epoxy Primekote. Finish with their Brightside polyurethane or Perfection two-part topside paint.

If using bottom paint as well, make sure that you tape off the water line before applying Epoxy Primekote, as you want to use bottom paint only over the barrier coat. In other words, don't use the Primekote where bottom paint will go. Another very important hint to be aware of, you must apply the anti-fouling paint (use their Trilux 33) before the barrier coat dries, which allows the two to bond. If it dries, the bottom paint will not adhere well and may flake off. Any other questions, feel free to ask. I have lots of knowledge in this field.