I've been having a problem , the pilot goes out at least once a month it's gas they say the new ones are sensitive to dust it pops the breaker on it , the old one I had for 15 yrs. not one problem except for old age. One person said it needs more fresh air , the plumber has been over twice he just vacuumed out the bottom
are there any plumbers or any one else encounter this problem before
I'm just trying to figure this out ... O ya this is the second new one did the same thing , I'm considering one of those instant on heaters
thanks , ML SR

Pm cohenfishing if you don't get any replies
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how well ventilated is the cellar or water heater location?

I know when we did allot of Radon mitigation jobs that many times
we just cored thru the side of the house with a 4 inch hole saw then installed a coupling with a soffet roof vent to allow some fresh air in..

but there is a spider that prefers an 11/32 nd sized hole too....

,I I'm considering one of those instant on heaters
thanks , ML SR

i've seen those....they have 5 canisters side by side with an electric coil inside each one
and the water goes from canister A to B to C to D then to E each time getting hotter as it goes....

very ingenious

Something wrong with the valve/controller. Could also be the pilot on sensor not putting out enough juice to keep the pilot valve pen. The quality of todays water heaters sucks compared to the past.

Aside from what was mentioned above the gas meter could be faulty. Contact your gas provider for them to test the meter for possible low pressure or if air is getting in the line.
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Aside from what was mentioned above the gas meter could be faulty. Contact your gas provider for them to test the meter for possible low pressure or if air is getting in the line.
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Yes,,, start with this,, went nuts trying to keep a customer in hot water on one job,,, turned out meter filled with water some how. :smash:

Is it a power vent model or atmospheric discharge?
Also whose' the manufacturer.
You mentioned the pilot goes out at least once a month,is this accurate or is it failing more frequently.

The newer models come with a "fvr" sensor on the milli volt end it called Flammable Vapor Resistor,it will open the circuit when the ohm reading goes above 75k.(from flammable vapors are detected).
These are normally installed on power vent units with an HSI ignition.
Also called glow plugs or Hot Surface Igniters.
As these are a bit tricky to reset it's a multi step process,
or you have a standing pilot, the thermocouple may not be positioned properly over the pilot or you my have flame rod (instead) I've seen this manufacturing defect a 100 times before.
I honestly do not think you have a combustion issue.
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hi , It's an American Water Co. /pro line flame guard and vented out through the roof the vent is tied in with the gas furnace.
On the average its going out once a month and I vacuum the underneath air inlet my plumber says that air inlet gets dust in it and trips the safety
Thanks for all your input with this
Ml Sr

My American Water heater/proline had a faulty valve when new. It took a few months for the pilot to stop working. It got to where I could not relight the pilot. Luckily I had bought it from the gas company and after trying to get me to pay for the repair they sent out someone to replace the valve free. Heater has a 10 year warrantee (nothing compared to the old ones where you could get a 20 year model) and it was crapping out in months?

I honestly think the gas company made the repair for free because it was a known manufacturing defect. After a new valve , no problems in 3 years.

American H20 co. Is a sub division of A.O.Smith,
The flame guard series have 2 or three black vinyl screens that slide/ friction clip that are about 1.5" in height and 12-14" in length these fit into the bottom perimeter of the tank.there perpouse is to collect the dust from the surrounding area.
Salthart has a good point,about the valve being faulty,
If the thermocouple is fine and sending a milli volts signal to the gas valve then the ECO Emergency Cut Off us failing.
This would take about five mins. to diagnose with a couple of simple tools, voltmeter 3/8",1/2" 7/16" box wrench.
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