I love my boat, with one exception, the deck gets wet when it's choppy. The way the McKee 196CC transom is cut (see pic of boat with previous owner), even with plugs in the scuppers, the waves will splash over on occassion. One way valves on the scuppers would help somewhat, but putting the motor on a bracket and filling in that transom would be the permanent fix.

On a boat of this size, I have no idea if that's worth it, whether I'd then be forced into all new cables and what it would do to overall performance. Just wishing for dry boots this time of year, during the summer I don't mind it at all and it's usually not a problem as I rarely anchor up. This time of year anchoring up it's noticable and since I hate rubber boots when it's really cold, you really need to keep up the waterproofing on the hunting boots.

Curious if anyone has any exerience, what something like this entails and whether it produces more performance issues than it solves..

it would be a MAJOR project. Never done it, but read about it many times on the classic mako site. rarely on 19's, though. You would have to be very nervous about the hydrodyanmic? performance of your hull w/ bracket. Would it porpise (would be my biggest fear), how would it handle in trailing seas, etc.. and again, a pretty big project. First step would be exstensive searching to see if you could find someone else that has done it. I would not want to be the guinea pig.

If it were me, and it bothered me that much I would just look for a new (bigger) boat...

have you ever put insoles in the rubber boots?

Just day dreaming, I'd be afraid of performance issues like you said, might look into some good one way valves (any suggestions) and even the possibility of a plexigallass add on to keep some of the worst of it out.

I'd be interested in any suggestions on the scuppers and any source of someone I might get some custom cut plexiglass from.

If I was looking for a MODERATE project... I'd look into building a well for the motor inside the current transom, I've seen pics of some on some GW's that looked pretty nice. Closing the transom is BIG project

BOB


jUST GET A PIECE OF 3/4 PLYWOOD OR THE HEavy plastic we use for the sides for digging ............. take two pieces of the same material put one each down both sides with a space large enough to drop the main piece & you can drop it in when the motor is down & just pull it out when your going to tilt the motor ,
The ruggeder pastic is best / it doesn,t bens, warp , etc & slides nicely ><><><>

I think you could do it, I've seen it done to 20 Seacrafts. It is a big project and you would have to get the height of the bracket right or you might have issues.
Are you saying that the water comes in the scuppers, or it comes in through the cutout and doesn't drain through the scuppers well? If it's the latter, have you considered building a splash well ?

Just get yourself a pair of good fishing boots and leave the hunting boots at home.

Nice boat!. I have this problem with my 20' seacraft. Id love to put a bracket on it but its a BIG job. Pricey as well. Im curious if you go ahead with the project, Id love some details.

BOB


jUST GET A PIECE OF 3/4 PLYWOOD OR THE HEavy plastic we use for the sides for digging ............. take two pieces of the same material put one each down both sides with a space large enough to drop the main piece & you can drop it in when the motor is down & just pull it out when your going to tilt the motor ,
The ruggeder pastic is best / it doesn,t bens, warp , etc & slides nicely ><><><>

that's kinda what I was talking about.

BOB


jUST GET A PIECE OF 3/4 PLYWOOD OR THE HEavy plastic we use for the sides for digging ............. take two pieces of the same material put one each down both sides with a space large enough to drop the main piece & you can drop it in when the motor is down & just pull it out when your going to tilt the motor ,
The ruggeder pastic is best / it doesn,t bens, warp , etc & slides nicely ><><><>

piscators contender has this sort of setup. not sure if its factory or an addon but it's a pretty good solution. maybe he'll put up a pic if it's not covered up

Yeah im sick of mine also always wet, plan on doing this overwinter to my boat.

piscators contender has this sort of setup. not sure if its factory or an addon but it's a pretty good solution. maybe he'll put up a pic if it's not covered up
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Just get yourself a pair of good fishing boots and leave the hunting boots at home.

Ditto and don't back down on the fish... 😜

JF need bait .u know where /just let me know so I won,t be surprized ><><>

It is a PIA and somewhat costly job but it will work and as far as performance goes..it should increase. Generally, outboard propeller efficiency increases a little bit to a sweet spot a couple feet aft of the transom. I don't know the exact sweet spot (a bracket manufacturer might though) but you're headed in the right direction.

Instead of doing all that...just buy a boat made to take the kind seas you plan to fish. If your feet are getting wet..that is a hint.

I would not count on a bracket increasing performance at all. It depends on the vessel as well as the running surface. Backing down or stemming the tide may also become more difficult. I specifically looked for boats without a bracket due to my style of fishing.

JF need bait .u know where /just let me know so I won,t be surprized ><><>


cool. thanks mike!

All I am saying is that it is a known fact that propellers that operate near the free surface see an interference effect from the flow separating off the stern. Studies have been done moving the propeller further aft and propeller efficiency is generally slightly improved. It is nothing dramatic but it is better. I don't recall the exact numbers but you might see another knot or so top end...something like that.

I would not do it for the so called "performance increase" you do it to keep your feet dry and general saftey

When I was in the boat search phase last year I sea trialed a couple of boats with brackets,,,, one in particular was a Ken Craft (battleship),,, during my inspection I noticed a couple of sand bag in the forward under deck storage compartment!!!! Not what I liked to see :confused: The bracket was original to the hull so the transom was full height across, nice feature.
My 2 cents worth is make a baffle that's easy to put on and off for the cut out.
If you put screens on the deck side of the scuppers you can keep a couple of eels at the ready on the deck! :devil2:

screens on the scuppers... BRILLIANT!

I wonder why some Regulators have brackets and some do not.
I would guess there is more to it than meets the eye.

adding a bracket also increases the "effective length" this plays into whatever performance issues. there are.

Further, not all brackets are the same...some provide substantial hydrostatic buoyancy very far aft and can compensate for the weight of bigger heavier engines,

If you are at trolling along without a bracket, with a big OB hanging on the transom your static trim may be too much bow up (stern down). A bracket that provides some buoyancy will make it more neutral by providing hydrostatic boost just where you need it. Some of them are cleverly designed so that when you are running along the flow separates at the transom and the bracket is essentially out of the water providing no wetted surface (drag)...but when you stop you get the added buoyancy from the static displacement of the volume submerged. Thus the engine weight does not pull the ass end into the water.
There is more to it than most people think.

No bracket adds "substantial hydrostatic buoyancy" it would have to be the entire width and pretty long to do so.

Most transom to bracket jobs look to just offset the extra weight of a 4 stroke, not add buoyancy above what it previously was. this is why the euro transom came about. more strength more actual buoyancy.

the classic mako site has some very indepth and educational threads about switching from open transom to closed with bracket. most of the best were nidacore jobs and rebuilding the ends of the stringers to accomodate big modern outboards.