As much as I've fished it seems that there is always so much more to learn. This year was my year to get humbled by current. I fished it a lot more than prior years and was amazed at how difficult it is.

Seems like the plugs I've acquired were inadequate. Slow retrieves and big swimming action were poor. Streamlined heavier stuff with smaller lips and tighter action worked better.

Then where to cast. The usual swing 11 o'clock to 2 o'clock still worked, but it limits you to a very small strike zone unless you can move laterally, which often isn't practical.

How do people do fishing straight down current, or up current? Something I always thought looked unnatural, but apparently works.

And landing fish on plugs. Ouch! My last good night I hooked seven bass (3 mid thirty and up) and landed only one, not a big one. Any advice? You horse back hard or baby them into the quieter water? Seems like when they get close and turn the plug pulls across their mouth and pops out. Almost makes me want to use barbs and mono again.

Got a whole winter to rethink all this. What are other's experience?

Current is a hard one. It goes way beyond being able to read a tide chart and knowing that wind against tide makes for an ugly ride.

Then there is reading the stuff. Obviously seams are good but do you get your fish in the run or after you pop out? Once you pop out you creeping it back, or cranking it in fast to make another swing. How many guys swim a plug backwards? How you doing that with spinning tackle?

What about obstructions? You trying to swing in front, behind, or alongside? How far back beyond the obstruction do you find fish? What do you do when they wrap you in current? Try to drag 'em back, hold them and hope they swim upstream, give line?
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Any advice?

Fish jigs :smash:

In the heavy current I let em run for a while till I get scared. Then I cup the school for a bit. If it is a big fish in big current, there is nothing left to do but tighten the drag once you know they are beat and horse them in. Keep em on top so you can see the giant wake. If you let em dig they'll screw you on the bottom break you off or keep taking line. If you have the ability to chase them down the bank, that is a different story. I don't like to give them chit. They will abuse you. Then again what do I know? I am still searchin for my 50, and I'm pretty sure I have blown my chance more than once in big current.

Live eel with a teaser.
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Fish jigs :smash:

If everything is open and the structure you want to cover is at 11-2 o'clock that is fine.........but what if the structure is up tide and you can't move, or straight downtide of you? Or the rip boils up from 15ft to 5 ft over a shelf and the fish are on the shelf? How do you manipulate jigs to cover those situations? I run into them all.
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Live eel with a teaser.
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Atheist
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If everything is open and the structure you want to cover is at 11-2 o'clock that is fine.........but what if the structure is up tide and you can't move, or straight downtide of you? Or the rip boils up from 15ft to 5 ft over a shelf and the fish are on the shelf? How do you manipulate jigs to cover those situations? I run into them all.
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Lighter jig. :smash:

Beats me. I lost several this year and I'm still whining about the one in Oct. in the afternoon when no one in their right mind would be wasting their time at the canal. That one hurt. I usually just do a lot of praying.

Up current works but like fly fishing slack is the enemy, down current works as well. Again to me, I think of fly fishing where I get strikes letting the current work the streamer, or in this case a plug. However it has to be in the right location, if you are on a rock and the current is at your feet this is good. If the current is in front of you hopefully is is 8-10ft out equal or close to the rod length. Let it sit, let it ride. It sometimes it is the moment the plug will collide with the obstacle. Rock, pier, etc. Let it wiggle, then let out two feet and re-set the line on the roller. Or, bring it forward a foot or two. A fish might be keyed-in but non committal until it moves a bit.

I was just discussing the live eel and a teaser thing the other day...

How do you decide how to handle the hit? if the hit is on the teaser, you set hook right away... eel hit : wait, then set...

BUT! How the heck do you know which it hit?

The split focus on my end would mess me up and make me miss fish.

i love eels, and fish teasers often with plugs... but never together

I try to fish parallel to the edge when conditions allow. Tend to try and fish with the current coming at me. But have done ok the other way. Can't count how many times I've got hits as I'm lifting the plug out of the water.
When it's really humping I bring out the big stick.
(VS 275 w 65# Samurai and a 1322 w 6 inches of the tip )
Can really put the boots to them but then you run the risk of pulling hooks out of flesh.
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Fish with Roy and see how he does it

Fish with Roy and see how he does it

I wish. That guy is the best fisherman I'll ever meet, but isn't he in Fla now?

So rat him out. How does he do it?

Seems to me that unless fish are breaking on top, almost all the fish I get are at a single sweet spot where the plug or jig approaches 2 o'clock. That might be OK in the canal, but plenty of other places I fish have specific structure that is not at that sweet spot.

My sense is that I am passing over fish, but my plug or jig is ineffective except when it hits that one sweet spot. Likewise, holding a plug and letting it work against current nabs an occasional fish, but the plug covers very little ground. I'm curious if people do better dropping back slowly, or pulling fast against the current.
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have you tried a needlefish plug, maybe one with a skinny nose and very heavy? I love needlefish. Jigs are my thing in current, but 10-15 ft. depths I would think darters would work, as far as the strike zone, not sure how to get them at a different spot if you can't stand where you'd need to. plant a boulder and get on it with wetsuit.


I have some crazy theories about Roy, he used to be a fish in his past life. The guy just has the gift, he's the type who will be next to you and you both are using the same thing and he will out catch you 10 - 1.
Yes , he is back in Fla harassing their fish for now.

How do people do fishing straight down current, or up current? Something I always thought looked unnatural, but apparently works.

And landing fish on plugs. Ouch! My last good night I hooked seven bass (3 mid thirty and up) and landed only one, not a big one. Any advice? You horse back hard or baby them into the quieter water? Seems like when they get close and turn the plug pulls across their mouth and pops out. Almost makes me want to use barbs and mono again.

Got a whole winter to rethink all this. What are other's experience?
Ahhh, ran into paul the other day said you were dabbling in the ditch...so thats what I assume you're talkin about
These past few weeks for some reason all my fish have been within 20 yrds of the shoreline. Mainly cuz ive been using that orca spook and unloaded redfin for the herring. It really depends on the spot, you have to know intimately whats going on out there. There are a few places where I know that you have plenty of room to let the fish go down current, there's little to no obstruction on the bottom and I just let them get into the side where the current isnt bad and fight them in there. Other spots that are deffinite fish catchers sometimes have a giant friggin boulder right in front of you, which limits your tactics jigging, but sometimes is a perfect place to swim the spook or swimmer over. When you do feel the fish wrap up on a rock, I don't move. I dont want the line rubbing on the rock, so I freeze until the fish turns and frees itself. I've been learning from a few regulars down there, and found some spots no watter what where the fish are always tight to the shore in that seam. Thats my favorite tactic last few weeks, let the thing go wayyyyy down current not even turning the handle just letting the current work the plug, and work the seam. Guys cast their jigs 100yrds out at the most popular spots as fish are literally sitting at their feet. we wait till they leave frustrated, move in and slam em on shads or swimmers tight to shore when nothings showing...

First plug out of the bag when I'm there is a yellow darter. I cast it out as far as i can. I let it drift, occasionally stopping the line to let it struggle against the current. If I have the space, I'll work it for more than 100 yards. Then slowly work it back up the rocks. It's easier if you wear waders and stand knee deep. I suppose you could shorten up your cast to cover different water on each cast, but I never do.

When I hook up(not as often as I'd like), I set the hook hard and horse them in. This Spring I had a terrific battle with a monster bass, with grunting, groaning et.c.(and witnesses) I finally landed the brute. It might have weighed eleven pounds. I've landed much larger with a lot less fight. This allows me to believe that all the fish I can't stop are actually only little guys. :rotf2:

Something tells me Numbskull's next topic will be along the lines of "How do you rig a ladies bike with rod holders?"
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Trebles + Braid + Hard Current = Dropped fish.

George,
If you're fishing trebles in current you are going to drop a lot of fish no matter what you do. You can only give so much line to a fish and keeping them out of obstruction is just a reality. Barbs may help a bit but I have lost many fish in hard current with barbs on my hooks. The only real solution to this problem that I have found is to run single hooks. Jigs, riggies, live eels, sluggos, etc. are my go to offerings in the current. I know you aren't an eel guy so that narrows it down quite a bit. If you must use trebles I have found that bumping up the size to the maximum that the plug allows for will help. Remember, more hook gap is better in this situation. There are also people starting to experiment more with replacing all of their trebles with free swinging single hooks. Even the belly hooks.

I make many differant kinds of of plugs.. and at one time or the other.. I'll even fish a few of them.. but when it comes to fast water.. which for me is one of the most infamous inlets on the east coast there are two plugs that stand out..

A goo-goo eye fitted with single 9/0 siwash on the belly will work in the worst of currents... and you may( will) miss a few hits.. but you wont drop any once hooked up... no matter how much pressure you apply.. back when i sold my catch.. EVERY plug was fitted with singles.. now i dont care if I loose a few.. ..I think we discussed this once at plugfest...if I go this year i'll bring a few of the special riggies.. it's not something I make a habit of showing the public...

I also have very good luck with trollers under those conditions... on a moon tide the merrimack can reach 7 knots on the drop.. i troll against it at 1.5.. goo-goos and trollers are the only ones that get to the fish and not roll out..I'm using 60lb wire with the drag socked up tight ( the only time I fish a tight drag.. most big fish are lost because 90% of the people fishing use a drag that is just too tight).. .. I know this is a surf discussion but it is pertinant...

a simular technique can be used from the jetty( which is in such a state of disrepair that it is unfishable now a days.. ).. the plug is played out into the current and allowed to work the edge on an ultra slow retrieve.. pausing often to let the plug rise in the water collum.. sometimes I'll let it swim backwards against slight thumb pressure ( conventional reel).. but ti REALY sucks when a bass smashes the backwards swimming plug unless your paying close attention.. for the most part, most of this water is between 3'-12'... there also deeper "bowls" scattered in between..most can only be reached/worked by boat....when swimmig a plug from a jetty ( or even a boulder pile) work it right to the base of the rocks i couldn't count the times i have had a bass slam the plug as i lifted it from the water... ... again.. a goo-goo will dive and find fish when deep running plugs like conrads will roll out.... the edges, rather than the swift current are the lair of the larger fish... they also lie in the shallow depressions, mid current in otherwise flat water... your offering must scrape their head if you want a strike... it's way differant than fishing the beach...

you mentioned structure... it really doesnt have to be much... as I said before it doesn't have to be much more than shallow depressions... edges where two currents clash can make a holding spot... and of coarse the obvious.. rocks and mussel... shoals and the like...as far as how far back... it all depends on the structure and velocity of the current. some times they stay real tight.. other times the turbulance and slick after it extends back a fair distance.. if less effort is needed to hold in posistion they can be a considerable distance...

I know it's been said before.. and I preach it to anyone smart enough to listen... big fish are lazy.. they need to expend the fewest calories for the highest reward.. big bait big fish.. calm(er) water big fish.. the rips may be exploding all around a "spot" but if it's holding big fish.. they have a hiding place where the living is easy... fat men dont run to the salad bar...they walk to the buffet...

Ummm......I run to the buffet when the new food comes out !
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Something tells me Numbskull's next topic will be along the lines of "How do you rig a ladies bike with rod holders?"
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That, too, after watching what Paul accomplishes up there. But my concerns about current are more generic. Lots of spots I fish, Nobska, WH, Quicks, Robinsons, Scorton, SOH, Maravista have tons of it. For years I was convinced skirting the edges of it, fishing the changes, and poking around obstructions was the way to go. This year I've changed my mind and feel I am missing lots of fish who set up in or under the fastest current around.
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as far as plugs go in current my go has been super strike darter, noreaster baits darter, and ccw small danny.

my favorite spot to fish is also when one my toughest to land a solid fish at.

the structure is at 12, straight out from where you can stand safely,its the only spot you can stand, deep water on both sides, i cast slightly to the right of it and work the plug thru the pocket until about 3 o'clock. must the hits come as the plug drifts over the bar into the pocket.

the darters/ccw plug hold really well and shallow enough to miss the bar/rocks but still deep enough to hold in the rip.

once the fish is on, i hope that it goes to the right into clear water with little or no structure and less current, but more often than not the fish will hit and run to the left, now its on top of the structure and can easily get off, using the current and all the holes in the rocks to break you off or hang up, the bigger fish always seem to know this trick here and will almost always run into the reef/shallower water.

you cant really fish jigs here cause the water is shallow the fish seem to key in on the pause after it hits the pocket, ive had some success with soft plastics like rigged sluggos and single hook soft plastics, but nothing is as effective as a darter.

one thing that i do on my darters and must plugs is i crush the barbs on the rear hook only, that way if the hook does get into the fish it easily pops out not letting the fish get extra leverage, and 95% of the fish seem to take the front hook on the darter anyway. Ive noticed that this trick helps me land more fish on darters and does less damage to them too.

This is a great thread.

I have never used 2 trebles. Always switch out the rear hook for a 6/0 Siwash. I have done it a few times on the belly hook with great results. It just looks strange but the fish cannot get the same leverage with a single that they can with a treble.
Current is difficult at best. Back when I fished the mouth of Narrow River regularly I had my best results on a rigged eel or rigged sluggo. All single hooks. I do not think barbs make a difference.

Some of my best catching days are when I fish my surfster......with the current running hard I cast it straight out and let the current work it as I slowly retrieve.......as the plug swims up along the bank I get alot of follows and hard takes from nice fish up along the side......many days when the bite is good like this I can get fish every other cast for awhile until the changing current shuts it off. The window usually lasts an hour give or take.......I like the 1 hour after low to 2-3 hours after low (mid tide) the bite is often great and most spend their time casting topwater out towards the middle......or they sit waiting for breaking fish? Mean while I am working the swimmers up along the bank catching fish!:fishin:

Something tells me Numbskull's next topic will be along the lines of "How do you rig a ladies bike with rod holders?"
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We have already discussed it
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We have already discussed it
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Because you're too lazy to offer me a ride on the handlebars.
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LOL Now that would be a sight. Maybe I'll get one of those little trailer things for kiddies. Your not that big
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LOL Now that would be a sight. Maybe I'll get one of those little trailer things for kiddies. Your not that big
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That would be a sight ...
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LOL Now that would be a sight. Maybe I'll get one of those little trailer things for kiddies. Your not that big
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Need that for my dog.
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I would suggest 2 sets of the duck fins the float tube guys wear for your amphibious pooch.
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Well in the canal I usually don't crush my barbs just for the fact I want as much holding power as I can get. I usually just hold on and size the fish up and when I get a feeling about the size of the fish I then try and think if I have caught a fish in that area before and how the bottom area, structure is. This will dictate how aggressive I work the fish.
When I fish in the boat, with you, I do crush my barbs because you yell at me to do it and I allows follow my guides advice. I have kind of adopted it when fishing in my boat with plugs.
I have seen up close a few of these areas of current and several of them make the canal look like a duck pond. I think my response to fishing these areas usually goes something like I wouldn't want to catch a fish in that area or I can't imagine trying to reel a fish out of there.
Basically I got nutin for you. Fishing those areas is a crap shoot with the fish having the upper hand, but man it is super fun trying it though and when it does work you will remember it.
Heck I am still smiling about the one I did get from that area you told me to cast to and then told me I would never get it out of there:confused: and after a few laps around the boat and you pointing out all the lovely structure under us I got my hands on it, crushed barbs and all.:) I told you it was my best fight of the year and I had quite a few this year.

LOL Now that would be a sight. Maybe I'll get one of those little trailer things for kiddies. Your not that big
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I have on you can have if you post pictures....

I Love fast water but not many rocks around here.
I love a dark green needle[floater] on a night outgoing tide and when it's time to retrieve I do a twenty four count for every revolution of the handle. I think a -Norris-would do the trick.
If I have a fish on heading down current I Try to wear him out as he pulls away. If the fish turns to make it's getaway easier, then I slack off on the pressure so that I can regain some line.
Someday I'll try this with rocks.
P S If Numby needs a canal special I have a walker with red tassels on the handles he can borrow .My redheaded nurse said no dice so you're on your own.


l

Fly fishing teaches you a lot about fishing. You have to use what you don't have.Can't horse a fish and your chasing fish that like hard current with loads of structure working agains you.The fish dictates what you can and can't do. Hard part is figuring out which is which. When they nose up against something I give them slack and pray they swim away from the structure.Slack also works when mending a fly line or dead drifting a plug or a bait.Control is what you don't have and sometimes understanding that while fighting a fish gives you a chance.

This is something I had a major issue with when I trout fish (the concept is very much the same, only it's big fish on small gear). The area I go to has similar structure, except the area is where a major river dumps into a smaller one. This spot, the current is tough but I have the ultimate control for attack (I can have the current flow away from me, parallel, or towards me). I lost probably the biggest trout I ever had on the line because as soon as it ate my plug, it went right for the structure and hung my line up. I learned my lesson and caught it's big brother the year after.

I use mainly Rapala Baby Brown trout or a similar Yo Zuri plug (lipped)

http://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Flat-Fishing-Brown-Trout/dp/B005EIFICS

Just note that I use the plastic version, not this wooden version. Just to give you the idea of the plug shape and type I favor.

I actually have a single belly hook and a single tail hook on the lures I use for this hard current. You will get misses, but usually the ones that miss are the smaller fish.


The best angle of attack I found was actually standing where the current is moving away from me and also to the side where you have the border of the calm water meeting the ripping current. From there, I would cast straight ahead on the border then fan out. So standing at that area I would cast at 12 oclock through 3 o'clock (or into the calm water about 45 degrees from where my stance is). I used lures that were meant for subsurface such as what I linked above: whichever was light enough to look like it was getting batted around in the cross current and still able to dig in the water when retrieved slowly but also not so heavy that it would give off the submarine effect.

When they are hooked and start heading for their lair, I don't mess with the drag (I have my drag set to where it just passes the mark of not giving out line if I set the hook on a fish but I can still pull the line from the reel if needed), instead I give it some fast cranks and pull the rod past me to horse them away as if it were a tog and use the current against them by keeping them in the middle of the water column where the water forces them up and now they have to fight you and the current which makes them tire faster.

More often than not, if you keep them from running to their lair on their first few attempts they get discouraged and fight you more. If they manage to get to where they want, I actually move (if able) to the opposite direction. If they went to the left, I move right, etc. While moving, I keep the tension and reel the line to gain that ground back (same concept as backing down on a fish). If you can't move, its a real crapshoot. That's where a thick leader comes in, a long standing line if you can do that (a la Alberto Knie's Alberto Knot).

I do also cast down the middle of the water and retrieve back to me as well but I find that angle gives it more action.

99% of the time, the fish crush the lure in very close proximity. Namely, at the feet. I've never had much luck in drifting a plug.

Hope this helps and makes sense

Good post.

When you say single hooks on the belly, do you mean a single treble or a single single? I've not experimented much with singles as belly hooks, but have a feeling I should. Have others? How's it work?

The other thing that intrigues me is the idea of fishing down current, i.e. retrieving with the current. There is a spot I fish where there is a sentinel rock (the first rock the current hits as it approaches a point......and usually the best rock to target) uptide of my only access. Sometimes I can get hits swimming a darter fast by this, and sometimes I think they follow the plug and hit it as it turns near my feet, but my sense is I'm not fishing very effectively.

Does anyone have experience bridge fishing? From reading the book about Billy the Greek (an interesting but poorly written one) I get the sense he swims bucktails back downtide straight at the fish and they will hit it if it is close enough. Pichney also made plugs to do this, but how he used them I've no idea.

How about you canal guys? You ever cast straight uptide and fish back towards you? With a jig or plug?

Most of those large Sebile canal fish I caught, and the ones I lost this year, were caught reeling with the current if that helps. I fan cast the whole area and that direction was the best.
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Most of those large Sebile canal fish I caught, and the ones I lost this year, were caught reeling with the current if that helps. I fan cast the whole area and that direction was the best.
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Makes sense Paul. I think the fish in the canal swim WITH the current most of the time so the bait does the same I would imagine

I have a place in Narr Bay when I only get fish if I drift with the current and correspondingly, my bait/plug does the same.

I like to fish a couple of my spots by casting uptide and retrieving with the current. My go-to setup is a wood egg with a 3" pearl shad under it and I pop the egg. Works like a charm. Without the egg, the shad will always hang up on the bottom
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I've found that casting jigs upcurrent works best for me as they come at the fish tail ist due the the current pushing the lighter feathery end down current. especially with some pork rind on them. I think the fish feel tey're ambushing the lure.a freind of mine often outfishes me with his cocaho's doing this.
As far as metal lips go I try upstream a few times then switch to cross current. not sure which works best as I use darters across an against the current most.

This is something I had a major issue with when I trout fish (the concept is very much the same, only it's big fish on small gear). The area I go to has similar structure, except the area is where a major river dumps into a smaller one. This spot, the current is tough but I have the ultimate control for attack (I can have the current flow away from me, parallel, or towards me). I lost probably the biggest trout I ever had on the line because as soon as it ate my plug, it went right for the structure and hung my line up. I learned my lesson and caught it's big brother the year after.

I use mainly Rapala Baby Brown trout or a similar Yo Zuri plug (lipped)

http://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Flat-Fishing-Brown-Trout/dp/B005EIFICS

Just note that I use the plastic version, not this wooden version. Just to give you the idea of the plug shape and type I favor.

I actually have a single belly hook and a single tail hook on the lures I use for this hard current. You will get misses, but usually the ones that miss are the smaller fish.


The best angle of attack I found was actually standing where the current is moving away from me and also to the side where you have the border of the calm water meeting the ripping current. From there, I would cast straight ahead on the border then fan out. So standing at that area I would cast at 12 oclock through 3 o'clock (or into the calm water about 45 degrees from where my stance is). I used lures that were meant for subsurface such as what I linked above: whichever was light enough to look like it was getting batted around in the cross current and still able to dig in the water when retrieved slowly but also not so heavy that it would give off the submarine effect.

When they are hooked and start heading for their lair, I don't mess with the drag (I have my drag set to where it just passes the mark of not giving out line if I set the hook on a fish but I can still pull the line from the reel if needed), instead I give it some fast cranks and pull the rod past me to horse them away as if it were a tog and use the current against them by keeping them in the middle of the water column where the water forces them up and now they have to fight you and the current which makes them tire faster.

More often than not, if you keep them from running to their lair on their first few attempts they get discouraged and fight you more. If they manage to get to where they want, I actually move (if able) to the opposite direction. If they went to the left, I move right, etc. While moving, I keep the tension and reel the line to gain that ground back (same concept as backing down on a fish). If you can't move, its a real crapshoot. That's where a thick leader comes in, a long standing line if you can do that (a la Alberto Knie's Alberto Knot).

I do also cast down the middle of the water and retrieve back to me as well but I find that angle gives it more action.

99% of the time, the fish crush the lure in very close proximity. Namely, at the feet. I've never had much luck in drifting a plug.

Hope this helps and makes sense

Well writen Zeal thanks... One thing i stumpled upon this year with a current in my face and a rocky bottom (trout fishing) was to jig / flutter a spoon. Reeling it in strigjt or cross current was ok, but as soon as i dropped the spoon in between the rocks its was on and these brookies were agressive, some time crushing the spoon and jumping way out of the water.

This same place also had some nice bass mixed in as well, if they didnt pick up the spoon i used very small swim shads and both the trout and bass crushed them as well. I was excited to figure this out (happy accident) and i applied this in a few other spots and did very well as well for multiple species including my.PB pickeral which owned my 6#test right at the boat we were in a 10'car topper amd the fish was close to if not over 3'.

The spoon i fell im love with was the achme thunderbolt gold, they are hard to come bye.
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I would imagine fish will swim with the current or find a way to minimize it's effect when looking for food. Why waste the calories.
Analogous, I suppose to bike riding into or with the wind.
Exceptions abound , but when I fish heavy current like the canal I first try fishing the plug swimming along the edge with the current.
Takes some work to give it the appearance of life, but it has paid off.

Sight casting to breaking fish is different. The fish are active on bait and just chase it around wherever it tries to go.
Just my two depreciated cents.
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Like walking the surf and casting all around the arc so to speak.Something I forget to do while fishing openings an breachways.

Good post.

When you say single hooks on the belly, do you mean a single treble or a single single? I've not experimented much with singles as belly hooks, but have a feeling I should. Have others? How's it work?



The Yo Zuri is treble in the belly and single hook for the tail

The Rapala I made it so it was single hook for the belly (no treble), and single hook in the tail.

Honestly, the Rapala caught just as much or more than the Yo Zuri given their hook setups.

Makes sense Paul. I think the fish in the canal swim WITH the current most of the time so the bait does the same I would imagine

You would think the bait would do so but many, many, times I find the bait is working against the current and moving in that direction. Back in the herring fishing days we always would want to be on the downside of the herring run. The side where the herring would have to work against the tide to get into the run. It was always way more productive and when the tide switched we would move to the other side.
I have other situations where I prefer to work against the current. I luv to work spooks and pencils when I am in the boat drifting or especially when anchored up against the current. When fishing top water in the canal you are quite often fishing them against the current unless something hits it quick out in the middle.

See that quite a bit also. Especially in real tight, assume the current isn't as strong. Get a kick out of when the bait sees me, scoots out a few yards and gets whacked. Lots of back eddies to find plugs swirling around in too.
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I would imagine fish will swim with the current or find a way to minimize it's effect when looking for food. Why waste the calories.
Analogous, I suppose to bike riding into or with the wind.
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From my experience, the fish hang under the current where they don't get swept up. When they actually attack, they go with the current and go right back down below it.

If they miss, I have seen the fish miss, stop swimming and just ride the current out until it is weak, then go under to their original place.

Spot on for you in my book! :)

bucktail jigs and tighten down the drag....I fish heavy current a lot. Water balsts the river mouth I fish. Sometimes need a 3 or 4 oz to keep on bottom, and when they hit, have that drag just below closed. Let the reel and rod do most of the work but def keep them up top. when they turn back into that current and start to dive, things can get pretty funky. I like to lead them right to my waiting bridge net that I have tied down and can kick in while fighting, so it's already in the water ready to go.

My 2 cents would be that the fly books talk in much more detail about presentation in current. Kenny Abrames foremost, Tabory and Mitchell and others as well. Check out some steelhead and other trout books too! Generally the fish are staged behind something that brakes the current for them and facing/looking upstream for something being washed their way within easy reach. That would be something cast directly upstream or being swung just in front of them across the current from a cast quartering upstream or there abouts. Want to start a real argument, debate which is more important with these guys: presentation or profile (don't even mention color if you know what is good for you). Fly fishing has made me a much better conventional fisherman! (not that is saying much, still much to learn and practice)