I want to remove the trim tilt from the OB.

I got the snap rings off, but could not move the pin at the bottom.
Beat the crap out it NO GO.

Any suggestions on getting the pin out?
Hopefully the upper one on the tilt won't be so stubborn.

did you google how to remove it?
I did a Dana drive once it was threaded in

Its a pin with snap rings on both ends.

Part #31 in the diagram.

Yo Vanster,
sawzall in between the outer housing and tilt assy. Remove small peices left in outer housing once tilt is out ot the way. Remove pin left in tilt with patience, p-oil and careful application of heat :devil2:
obviously new pin install.
I can see the corrosion in the pic :shocked:
Like u said -hopefully upper is better. Should be.

I don't know Steve.

I really don't want to use a sawzall. That space is really tight.
I think its too aggressive and the collateral damage will be nasty.
Cutting through an inch of stainless is not easy either.

I am hoping for a silver bullet to get that pin out intact.
If its still good, I can machine it clean here at work once out, repack and replace. Might even add a zerk fitting to keep it greased.

do you have the mechanics manual? If that's a Johnson, I can look at my manual tonight

Put some heat to it and drive it out with a pin punch. You'll probably have to re-paint the brackets after the heat treatment though.

Striperman, the engine is an etec, probabaly the same as johnsons.
It would be great to see what it says. This is corroded in place.

I did use a punch but did not add heat. Not sure I am getting enough
force on it, but i don't want to break anything either. That sounds like a good option. It will be painted anyway.

I am going to get some PB blaster in there too. The WD didn't help much.

Ya oops - stainless not so good to cut with sawzall :smash:

Kroil :btu: &
Heat :btu::btu: &
patience :btu::btu::btu:

Auto parts rental see if they have a big cclamp bushing press clamp? Or maybe harbor freight
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You will never get that out beating on it. You'll just fatten the ends of the stainless pin making it even tighter.
I would first try an air chisel with a point tip. Hit it once quick and hard. If the pin doesnt budge get a giant C clamp and put a socket on the fixed end to press the pin into. Tighten it up as much as you can. Heat the crap out of the housing with a propane torch and rap the end of the threaded end of the C clamp, qiuck and hard with a 5 pound dead blow hammer .
If it still wont budge drill out the ends of the pin on each side progressively larger until it falls out

Tons of info on Google" etec lower trim pin removal"
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Ya oops - stainless not so good to cut with sawzall :smash:

Kroil :btu: &
Heat :btu::btu: &
patience :btu::btu::btu:



I would go the cut suggestion route, cut and work 1 piece out at a time but instead of a sawzall I would use a 1/32 thick x 6 or 8 inch cut off wheel on a 4 1/2 electric grinder.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

You will never get that out beating on it. You'll just fatten the ends of the stainless pin making it even tighter.
I would first try an air chisel with a point tip. Hit it once quick and hard. If the pin doesnt budge get a giant C clamp and put a socket on the fixed end to press the pin into. Tighten it up as much as you can. Heat the crap out of the housing with a propane torch and rap the end of the threaded end of the C clamp, qiuck and hard with a 5 pound dead blow hammer .
If it still wont budge drill out the ends of the pin on each side progressively larger until it falls out

Tons of info on Google" etec lower trim pin removal"
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

First off, I will Google it thanks..

My machinist here at work loaned me his air hammer (chisel I guess) it has a flat end or point end. My compressor is probably too small to deliver enough air so my son's friend works for an garage/autobody shop, and has a tow truck with a big compressor and he can come by and we'll try it again. Shes not on the trailer and I want to do it in the yard.

If no -go..once I'm back on the trailer, I will bring her to my work where I have a full machine shop and BIG compressor we have some flywheel pullers, but the C clamp may fit better . Until I do it, I will keep soaking with PB blaster and I'll try some heat.

Ronny: I really want to stay away from cutting, but as a last resort it's probably the only way to go.

Thanks guys !!!!!!!

:smash: Angle grinder and thin wheel will eat right through that:kewl:

good choice Ron.
Mike's choice good as well, just be careful on that aluminum either way.

forgive me - I'm away from the tools for a while and rusty.
Getting dumb - been back as a boiler operator for 2 years - sittin my azz all day watching a boiler make steam. :confused:

:smash: Angle grinder and thin wheel will eat right through that:kewl:

good choice Ron.
Mike's choice good as well, just be careful on that aluminum either way.

forgive me - I'm away from the tools for a while and rusty.
Getting dumb - been back as a boiler operator for 2 years - sittin my azz all day watching a boiler make steam. :confused:

Boiler makes steam, steam spins turbine, turbine spins generator, generator makes electricity. Now my power tools work, and my food stays cold and I can watch TV if I want...... GOOD JOB BEETLE !!!!!

Can't take credit for all that Vanster, at a Pharma. company in Hopkinton, just steam, chillers and distilled water.

No turbines, generators, ect. life is good.
hardest part is the commute and 12h shifts.

Isn't cast aluminum pissa:fury::fury:


The one time I did something similar Van is doing a trim cylinder on an I/O. There was actually a grease fitting on the inside of the boat meant to push the pin out with grease gun pressure. Not that worked, it was still froze. More heat and patient.

It is just a su*k job Van. You will be cussing that's for sure.........

Van,

I know how to do this if you have not gotten it yet.

You need two things. An oxy torch and a slide hammer. I have done this on severl of these and I am now an expert. I smashed the s h i t out of my thumb trying to get one off before I spoke to an out drive mechanic who showed me how.

The trick is RAPID heat. You need to quickly heat the AL bracket with a oxy torch. (Try not to heat the pin directly) Do not use propane it is not fast enough. Don't melt the AL but get it hot quick then either pound it with a slide hammer or use a pin and hit it with a 3# sledge. Each time I did this it worked. You can clean it up and repaint afterwards. I have not had a time where I could not get one out and I had a couple that were really fused. (Grease the #^&#^&#^&#^& out of it when you put it back)
good luck and watch your fingers.

Van,

I know how to do this if you have not gotten it yet.

You need two things. An oxy torch and a slide hammer. I have done this on severl of these and I am now an expert. I smashed the s h i t out of my thumb trying to get one off before I spoke to an out drive mechanic who showed me how.

The trick is RAPID heat. You need to quickly heat the AL bracket with a oxy torch. (Try not to heat the pin directly) Do not use propane it is not fast enough. Don't melt the AL but get it hot quick then either pound it with a slide hammer or use a pin and hit it with a 3# sledge. Each time I did this it worked. You can clean it up and repaint afterwards. I have not had a time where I could not get one out and I had a couple that were really fused. (Grease the #^&#^&#^&#^& out of it when you put it back)
good luck and watch your fingers.

Thanks, good info...

Some new findings.
I got a close look at it last night. When I use the tilt, I can see the snap ring moving ever so slightly. There isn't much movement on the lower pin but it did turn. That means its not seized on the brackets but in the body of the tilt/trim unit which is like 6" long. That's a lot of area if its corroded in place through the length.
On the upper, there is more rotation and it just the opposite, the pin does not rotate, so its seized on the engine bracket. I did get that pin to move a bit, but still would not come out.

I am going to try a few things that aren't too aggressive this weekend with heat and impact tools.. If it don't budge, I think am going to leave it until the end of the season. It still works, but make a nasty sound when I use it. So eventually it needs a-fixin'.

At my shop here at work we do have an oxy cutting set-up, massive presses (hydraulic and manual), a big air compressor and lots of sledge hammers !!!:smash: So when the time comes..:smash: I'll let you know.

Also read if you get the top pin out it can be tipped back to get to the trim motor without touching the Lower pin
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Also read if you get the top pin out it can be tipped back to get to the trim motor without touching the Lower pin
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That's what I was hoping when I went for the top one.
But of course......not on mine. I checked and it will hit the port side bracket and only move out a bit.

Question...Are you trying to rebuild the tilt cyl's? If so you can do it in place.

sawzall trick is your best bet. try to spread the brackets as much as possible. there is a plastic bushing in there. cut though the bushing and then through the pin. trick to stainless with a sawzall is to go slow and steady(also don't poke the transom. takes a while but is really the easiest way. I do two or three of these a year that are stuck like that and almost never fails. once the unit is out if you have access to a press a little heat and you should be able to press it right out. make sure to grease the snot out of the new pin before you put it back in.

Question...Are you trying to rebuild the tilt cyl's? If so you can do it in place.

Jim:
No I want to access the transom behind there, for some repair, and get the trim unit moving smoothly. The cylinders work fine. Might only need to bleed the unit. Figured if I leave it longer it will just get worse.

Freebie:
Thanks I will see how this goes and decide on the next step.
Mostly I want to avoid collateral damage. Breaking that bracket would really suk.....so cutting may be the way to go.

I don't think you have to cut it. You can do damage to soft AL bracket very quickly with a sawsall. Heat is the answer IMO, it will come out a lot easier than you think once you put some hot oxy-acetylene heat to the surrounding bracket, it will expand relative to the pin and it will come out with tapping a light sledge with a soft brass float, just don't mushroom the pin itself, that is why you should use a float or slide hammer.


Dissimilar metals + Sea Water + Air + Sea Water + Time = nightmare if not well greased

I don't think you have to cut it. You can do damage to soft AL bracket very quickly with a sawsall. Heat is the answer IMO, it will come out a lot easier than you think once you put some hot oxy-acetylene heat to the surrounding bracket, it will expand relative to the pin and it will come out with tapping a light sledge with a soft brass float, just don't mushroom the pin itself, that is why you should use a float or slide hammer.


Dissimilar metals + Sea Water + Air + Sea Water + Time = nightmare if not well greased

if the pin was frozen in the bracket that would be absolutely true. unfortunately the pin is most likely stuck in the trim unit. for some reason they didn't put any grease on these pins from the factory. occasionally I end up destroying the unit to get them out but mostly on the real old(early to mid 90's motors).

You may be right on that. On the ones that I have attacked they were seized in the bracket and heat did the trick. If they were stuck in the trim mechanism, I think it is stainless on stainless...I think you could get that free with impact by driving it with a sledge and a float.

1) Soaked the crap out of it with PB Blaster and tied some rags around the shafts to keep it wet like Beetle said...
2) Used heat like Sandman and BigBo said...
3) Drilled holes in the ends and used the pointed end chisel on the impact hammer like FishingFreak said...
4) Then got the boy down with the big compressor.

"VIOLA"

The bottom pin came right out !!!!:jump1:
The top pin was a bit flattened so I had to dremel grind the end.
Hit it with the heat then the chisel point in the hole I drilled in the end and it shot out across the driveway !!!:jump1:

I didn't disconnect the wiring, just moved it out and tied it up with a rope. Plenty of access now to the transom and brackets.
I have to buy a new upper pin and some snap rings and repaint. This time with barrier coat so I can use a bottom paint on the metal without electrolysis worries.
I have the pins at work to put in the lathe and smooth out.
I am also going to mill a couple of long slots in them to hold grease, and make grooves on the pins right where it is under the bracket. These will hold my mixture of marine grease and my super never-seize inside the housing. As long as I service them every year, should never seize up again.

Thanks again to all. This is why this site kicks arse.......
Now let's go fishing...:fishin:

Congrats! Weird but its a good feeling isn't it? I remember when I got one that was really stubborn out my wife asked me why I was in such a good mood. I just said...you have no idea what I've been thru. It is a rewarding feeling for some reason.

don't use never seize. that's a big no no in a saltwater environment. marine grade grease will work fine and that pin will slide right out in the future. I've done some 5 yrs later and the grease hold up. I've seen some with never seize at 6 mos that are frozen again.

I am a big fan of Johnson Evinrude Triple-Guard Marine Grease. It is blue and holds up for a long time in seawater. You can find it on ebay at a resonable price. I have tried numerous types. IMO This is the seems to be the best underwater grease. I am sure the Navy has something better but for what you can buy yourself it seems to work.

Never tried anti-seize underwater, I would be most worried about wash out.

The white lithium seems to cake up after a long period and any kind of regular bearing grease gets washed out quick. There is a very sticky red grease that I picked up from NAPA and it seems pretty good too but I like the blue stuff better. Volvo Penta makes a good prop grease it is a beige color not as sticky and seems to hang around for a season but over a long time (multiple seasons) it seems to disappear (it is expensive) In any case if you pull the pins each season and re-grease you will never have a problem. They will come out like butter each season now. I

I am glad you got them out with damage to the unit or finger like I did on my last one...

don't use never seize. that's a big no no in a saltwater environment. marine grade grease will work fine and that pin will slide right out in the future. I've done some 5 yrs later and the grease hold up. I've seen some with never seize at 6 mos that are frozen again.

Hmm... more good info. I've been using a "secret recipe" of marine grease and that high end never seize. I think the cheap neva-seize dries out and is a problem. My mixture has been working for me for years. Props and bolts always come off. I'll keep an eye on it though,,,thanks.

I am a big fan of Johnson Evinrude Triple-Guard Marine Grease. It is blue and holds up for a long time in seawater. You can find it on ebay at a resonable price. I have tried numerous types. IMO This is the seems to be the best underwater grease. I am sure the Navy has something better but for what you can buy yourself it seems to work.

Never tried anti-seize underwater, I would be most worried about wash out.

The white lithium seems to cake up after a long period and any kind of regular bearing grease gets washed out quick. There is a very sticky red grease that I picked up from NAPA and it seems pretty good too but I like the blue stuff better. Volvo Penta makes a good prop grease it is a beige color not as sticky and seems to hang around for a while but over time seems to disappear (it is expensive) In any case if you pull the pins each season and re-grease you will never have a problem. They will come out like butter each season now. I

I am glad you got them out with damage to the unit or finger like I did on my last one...

That finger is......:yak5::yak5::yak5:

1) Soaked the crap out of it with PB Blaster and tied some rags around the shafts to keep it wet like Beetle said...
2) Used heat like Sandman and BigBo said...
3) Drilled holes in the ends and used the pointed end chisel on the impact hammer like FishingFreak said...
4) Then got the boy down with the big compressor.

"VIOLA"

The bottom pin came right out !!!!:jump1:
The top pin was a bit flattened so I had to dremel grind the end.
Hit it with the heat then the chisel point in the hole I drilled in the end and it shot out across the driveway !!!:jump1:

I didn't disconnect the wiring, just moved it out and tied it up with a rope. Plenty of access now to the transom and brackets.
I have to buy a new upper pin and some snap rings and repaint. This time with barrier coat so I can use a bottom paint on the metal without electrolysis worries.
I have the pins at work to put in the lathe and smooth out.
I am also going to mill a couple of long slots in them to hold grease, and make grooves on the pins right where it is under the bracket. These will hold my mixture of marine grease and my super never-seize inside the housing. As long as I service them every year, should never seize up again.

Thanks again to all. This is why this site kicks arse.......
Now let's go fishing...:fishin:

Congrats. I've been following this thread but had no suggestions to add. Good job Boys!

Got some free time this morning and took the pin into the shop.
I spun it and just used some abrasive paper and it cleaned up easy. All the corrosion was on the aluminum.

I took it to 600 grit and added some V-grooves to hold extra lubricant.
Some in the mid section and one under the bracket. I will do the same on the upper pin once I receive it.

50 BUCKS PLUS SHIPPING FROM EVINRUDE OR LOCAL MARINE SHOP.:fury::fury:
35 BUCKS ONLINE. PLUS 5 BUCKS SHIPPING. :jump1: