Since I have the console disconnected to replace the fuel tank, I might as well look into updating 1993 Grady White wiring and switches. Looking for experienced input as this is not my strong suit. The current set up is all plug and play, which is a big pro for doing nothing. On the other hand, I think it would not be too expensive to go with new switches (and a button for the horn, requirement I am told) as most of the cost would be time. Not too many switches needed on a 20 footer.... Would likely look at a six or eight switch unit. What am I missing? I am also pulling out the stereo as I can blue tooth with my phone.... Now is the time to consider what to put in a new dash. Thanks

edit; That fuel gauge is coming out and the original Yamaha unit is going back in. The sender failure is what started me down this road a few years ago...

How does the wiring look for oxidation/rot?

Looks fine to my uneducated eyes. It is dirty, that's it...

Couple thoughts….

Check the ends of the main wire harness cable from the engine to c console…( pins still in good condition? )

Before closing up the deck lay in a couple wire pulls for future, um, repairs ;-)

I'm wondering about corrosion, which you won't see from those photos.

Blue seas systems makes a good panel. I’m not sure about a horn switch but there’s some nice water proof push button options.
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Ross, second the blue seas stuff, very reliable, don't skimp the quality.
Get a set of brady markers and make yourself a schematic, write down the numbers, it will save you a big headache latter several copies, laminate one and mount it under the console. it's surprising how fast switches accumulate, even in a small boat.., .. dielectric grease, and shrink tube are your friends. do not solder, it is not ABYC compliant, and can lead to broken wires problems because they become too rigid.. wire ties, use plenty and use marine grade, those that are sold at the big box store are not dependable.
If you get into it, I have several different sized ratcheting crimpers, as well a hydraulic crimper, you are welcome to borrow them if you proceed with this.

Thank you, Joe!

Ross, second the blue seas stuff, very reliable, don't skimp the quality.
Get a set of brady markers and make yourself a schematic, write down the numbers, it will save you a big headache latter several copies, laminate one and mount it under the console. it's surprising how fast switches accumulate, even in a small boat.., .. dielectric grease, and shrink tube are your friends. do not solder, it is not ABYC compliant, and can lead to broken wires problems because they become too rigid.. wire ties, use plenty and use marine grade, those that are sold at the big box store are not dependable.
If you get into it, I have several different sized ratcheting crimpers, as well a hydraulic crimper, you are welcome to borrow them if you proceed with this.


And PHOTOGRAPH everything before

BlueSeas is what I used for my four switch panel..... some positive and negative busbars...marine wire of correct size....connectors and heat shrink stuff. Some wiring guides suggest a specific color wire for different things.....i stuck with black and red. I am no electrician but read up on it and did all of my wiring, everything works perfectly. My bilge pump came with its own switch.....has auto and manual settings and is separate from the Blueseas panel. My usb charger went into a 12v socket just below the ignition switch.
Rockfish Joe is spot on with his advice as always.
http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk/data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAMAAAAECAYAAAB LLYUHAAAAN0lEQVQIWxXKwQmAMAAEwd2kzKAvQdBHGhEE7Tene Q6Mz7lkOEjEa2+hBlLw7Vs0aMX7WOeAHx8gYxFv+/g3CgAAAABJRU5ErkJggg==

This may have been mentioned..

Pre printed wire labels 🏷️….. lasts for evah …..

I used New Wire Marine for new switches and wires. Good stuff, good prices.